A good tip for you is to assemble just the #1 rod and piston, and then dial in the cam. You can rotate the engine so much smother and get you readings on the degree wheel so much finer. Also the DZ is a true 69 Z28 block.

When so many build their 350 's to death, it's great to see a 302 being built. I have a great respect of the' unsung heroes' like 302's, both Chev and Ford.

On my original 69 Z I built the engine true to stock form, unported heads, custom JE pistons with the pin height moved for close to zero deck so I didn't have to deck the block for obvious reasons. The cam is a custom solid flat tappet with tight lash (.014" cold) with .495 lift so it ends up close to the stock advertised lift after lash is figured in. Ground on a 112 LSA and .050 duration is around 240 if I recall correctly. idles at 1000 with 10 inches of vacuum at 5000 ft elevation and works the power brakes fine. Nice flat torque curve on the dyno that stays within 15 ft lbs. of peak throughout the entire pull (peak tq at 4300) and makes peak power at 6300 but holds on within 5 HP to 7000. Engine is driven and dyno'd on 91 octane fuel. A little over 50,000 miles on the engine now over the last 7 years. Runs nicely at any RPM. One thing I do is have the camshaft nitrided and also run the solid lifter with the EDM hole so the lobes see direct oiling at all times. The lash on this engine has not budged since break in and over 50,000 miles. I just check it once a year. Idle video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f8Bge892vp3GZ2g.html

Years back, friend of mine I grew up with his dad worked for Good Chevrolet in Alameda California. Good Chevrolet is gone now his dad is also, but my friend use to talk about the DZ302 his dad bought for project the never came around that engine sat in the garage for years, think my friend finally found a use for the engine been a while since I spoke with him. As for David Vizard there are a lot of people that have had the opportunity to talk with David, his knowledge on cylinder heads, and camshafts engine dynamics is amazing. I had the opportunity back in the mid 80's to speak to David on the phone about a English Ford 1600 engine I was building with a turbo, he was a wealth of knowledge on the subject and had remarked about he had set a class record using a English Ford he had built for a Formula Ford car at the time. Late 60's 70's were the best times for motorsport just my opinion.

Clay Smith C304 solid flat tappet woke up a friend's 1969 Z. Folks couldn't believe it was only 302 cubes. Car had 4.88 gears it loved it. Later changed to a 4.30 so it had better street manners.

I watched a video where Keith Dorton used spray graphite also, sounds like a good safety measure.

Brings back engine screaming memories of my first (and only) 456 geared 68 Z28 back in the early 70’s. I had put a factory GM performance cam that was hotter (sowing machine sounding 30/30 lash cam?)than the original cam but do not think it was one of the 2 off road cams they had for it. Original owner did a back yard porting job and had a Crowler roller in it when I had bought it. Adjust the lifters and new set of plugs every so often and it pulled like freight train till @ 7,200rpm. It kind of lived over 6,000 rpm and thank fully I survived :-) The hotter GM cam (for originality), professional porting with the same gear I had and he will be very happy! BTW.. Now a 70 Cuda Mopar!

G.M. used to include ramps in their advertised durations. Skewed the numbers upward quite a bit. i.e 346 total degree duration then. Same true total manufacturers advertised duration today and the engine won't run. Two different methods of rating. Also, great tips on flat tappet break-in. I used to use nitrated components in past years. In recent years, cryogenically treated cams and flat lifters. Like you, never lost a camshaft in 50 years of engine building, street and off-road competition. Keep up the great work and information. Despite being a True Blue Ford Guy, I really enjoy your channel!

Love the content, I'm a huge fan of the good old SBC!

Alan, this is my favorite new channel, keep up the Great Work 👍 Can’t wait to see this 302 on the Dyno

Great video and I also enjoy reading the comments = like going to cam college!!! Nothing will effect an engine more than the cam selection so it is important for the owner/driver to be accurate and realistic about the car and the desired result. It all has to work together and glad you mentioned the rear gear ratio as well. Keep the videos coming and thank you!

nice discussion on the 302, I'd like to volunteer to help dial the engine in once in the 68. I'm wanting to speed-shift the 4 speed at 7200 rpm, 7500 rpm and 7800 rpm on multiple test-hits to help real world driving conditions, Lol

People argue about David's formula,but it works well. I was thinking 242. 248. On a 110 1.6. rocker on the imtake I have used the Duntof 30. 30. Cam. Back in the day.

Thank you, your are truly Gold!

Nice to see that Summit is including the right sized package of lube for their cams. The last cam I bought was a Comp XE268 and it had a package about half that size.

For a factory type build it’s very interesting. I’d be awful tempted for a roller cam for ease of maintenance with todays oils but I’d love to have the original type cam also.

Excellent video. All this talk about Z-28s makes me think that maybe I should build one after the Goat is finished (my wife would kill me - ha!). Thanks for the update and another great lesson on the thought process that goes into engine building. Well done!

Hi from New Zealand. Love your instructional videos. I'm building a 327 (4660) with 461 heads, and offenhauser 360 ram and 650dp. I was given a new old stock moon cam by an old gentleman who built some of the T/A camaro's here for race duty. He told me it was one they were going to use but their engines ran so well they didnt need it so it sat on the cam shelf for decades. He said it's a dz302 cam that will make my 327 run well. Here's hoping, just thought you'd like the story.

In my younger days racing stock cars, guys would talk about using graphite for cam break in lube. Graphite may be good for a door lock but not for a camshaft break-in lube. Because of its molecular composition, graphite delaminates under severe loads such as cam to lifter contact with high valve spring pressure. I think what has kept you in the ball game was that you are using a good cam lube with the graphite. I use a good cam lube and a high ZDDP 1200 ppm oil when I run in a new cam and have never burned down any cam lobes.

Going against everyone reliving history crowd. Go solid roller. Had one in a 396/375 clone engine, 4.10's, 3800 stall, and let's say it was impressive in my 66 Chevelle. Another great video.

Historically correct, GM 2nd Design Off-Road Cam. (-;

Love the Golds Garage neon sign 👍

I like the first cam that you mentioned. But your friend Bill or Mike Jones camshafts might have a better idea. Great idea using the dry graphite. It really sticks. I've tested it. Thanks for the videos.

Good solid information no bs

302 Chev's are fun little engines. We used a Solid Roller with roughly (memory lol) .570/.580 250/260 @.050 with a 112 LSA. car had a short gear set and ran strong. it just didnt have the Z/28 sound but it did sound great.

My cam choice would be Comp cams 12-679-5. Extreme energy 290. Would help get this valvetrain into the modern era. I would stay away from a 114 LSA. Crower also has a nice one part number 00322. Appreciate you letting us participate! If you are swinging for the fences to get max hp, go with the comp. If you are wanting something close to but more modern and more power than the original, then go with the crower. Thanks

On flat tappet cam break-in, use oil specifically designed for it, Driven BR30 is excellent. It has the proper extreme pressure additives and no detergents to compromise them. I've had excellent results.

I would call and talk to Bullet Cams. They have a lot of UD Harold’s grinds. If you don’t know who he is, look him up. A cam designer legend.

I used a factory Gm Z28 cam. Lowered compression to 10.5 :1 to run 93 pump gas and made 367 hp at 6000 rpm.

I had a 302 built for my 68 Camaro .. i used a larger journal 302 Crank .. i used the stock rods prepared by a shop in fort worth that builds dirt track engines . Sps rods bolts . I used a set of cylinder heads of a g gas car titanium valves ect ect ..i used a 600 isky roller cam . Joe mar , roller rockers ect ect ....i has the block bore honed deck plate .. i spun the engine to 7500 regularly.. ..This engine showed me the valve of a good set of cylinder heads that had a lot of work done to them ..

Nice hone job by Atchisons Alan!!

First, a couple of corrections. Duntov was Belgian not German and the Duntov Cam was developed for the 283 in the 1st generation Corvettes. It was not the 30-30 Cam used in the Z28. The 30-30 was developed purely for road racing and as mentioned is not happy being driven on the street. Recommendation would be the Isky Z-25 or Z-27 solid . The 108 LSA works well and does not undue the overlap like the 114 LSA would. I installed a Z-25 in a 57 Vette with the stock 283 and it works good and idles about 950 rpm. With 10.5 comp and the better Z28 heads it should give 7000 rpm easy and a wider powerband.

Out of the cams you mentioned the Howards roller will make the most power. I agree with one of the guys on here that said 242@.050 and 248. But I would run 246 on the exhaust if its going to have headers. Put as much lift at the intake valve as you can. On another note; a lower tension oil ring package is worth the effort. No downside.

Comp cams XS274S solid lifter cam would give similar RPM range to the original Duntov 30-30 cam. It would make additional power at every point in the range without shifting the range. The choke point will be the cylinder head regardless of the cam chosen. Aluminum "double hump" heads are available from TFS (appears like '186 casting w/accessory holes) and from Speedmaster (appears like a '461 casting wo/accessory holes.) With painted aluminum heads, you would get stock casting appearance with modern port and combustion chamber design. You would also get light weight, easy modification, and easy repair.

I have used the COMP 12-673-4 Which is the 30 30 + from their Nostalgia Plus series. It's such a bitchin cam... Sounds perfect, behaves a little better than the Orig etc. I feel it would be perfect for this combo and you won't be disappointed. I almost used it again for my latest build but opted to have a custom version of the -097 Duntov ground instead. Just a little more tame vs the original 30/30 cam.

With at least 220 cfm+ you can run the Comp Cams 282S solid lifter cam, I recommend running 1.60 rockers on it. 11.00-1 SCR this combo is proven to make 400+ HP @6500 rpm and 390+ TQ @4500 rpm.

The comp cam with 112 LSA Nostalgia 30-30 S is a pretty sweet cam. That’s the one I choose.

Summit has some circle track cams. It's been said that wedge style chambers work best with narrow lobe separation angles. Of course, your friend Bill Little knows how to make small blocks run so just ask him!

From Australia here I had my MO 302 rebuilt last year original block and crank aftermarket I beam rods and aftermarket factory style pistons , steel fuellie heads sy1 750 dp and twin point dizzy I wanted to keep it period correct as a lot was missing the cam was A solid cam I lost the cam card from memory it was 230ish /240ish 540ish lift 108 ls the cam was chosen to keep the rpm’s under 6500rpm to preserve the engine , going into my British green z28

Howard's Cams is best bet TFS, Has double Hump heads max flow 250 cfm can be painted to look like factory

We ran off road z28 cam way back.. but these days I'd run solid roller with .550 lift 248 @050 and 108 to 110 CL

The last comp cam that you mentioned that the door pattern I believe you said it’s on a 112 go with that one. It will let you idle better since intake a smaller, but still have plenty of nasty top it with the bigger exhaust just a smarter grind.

I feel like the roller cam is the way to go. Knowing what we know today that's going to yield far better performance than the cams GM had to use as a compromise back in the day. I ran a similar spect flat tappit cam in my old 327 for many years. It sounds pretty nasty but still yields reasonable 12 to 14 in of vacuum at idle.

Ive done the graphite spray and moly on my last camshaft. I always wondered if it hurts it like having too much zddp.

If you can dig one up, I would go with a 1st design racing cam #3927140. It has 256 268 @ 50, 469 483 lift, 112 LSA. The GM solid lifters are the best choice for their hard foot but they're hard to fine. the spring to use is #3927142 or equivalent.

Great video. I am looking for cam recommendations for my 327, flat tops, stock cast iron 2:02’s, C3BX dual plane. It’s going into a 63 Chevy short bed, 700r4 with a 2500 rpm stall converter and 3:73 gears. It’s mainly street driven but I am not too worried about street-ability. It’s an old build and has an Engle 267/.460 hyd cam. Thanks in advance.

Hello love the channel and this 302 build you are doing could not come at more perfect time for me. I have 69 z/28 100 percent survivor with beautiful original glacier blue paint. I recently discovered it has two cracked pistons and and I’m looking to rebuild the motor and make it gas friendly for today with a solid roller cam. I’d love to talk about your build for Tony and gets some advice for me.

My choice for cam would be 112062-10 from Howards, it would bring down the LSA from 114 stock to 110 which would help low end torque and the reduction in duration at .050 would still keep a similar overlay so the exhaust tone I think would the same or better.

LSA actually determines cylinder fillng. Less or more , what to do? David Vizard and Cattle Dog Garage both have the same formula and it is not by coincidence. Cattle Dog Garage expolains it much better and I am not mocking Vizard. Vizard has complimented Cattle Dog for how smoothly he explained what he has trouble doing due to actual brain surgery. Back in the day, we also talked about the 30-30 cam as being the fuelie cam. The Duntov cam was the original 097 cam for the fuel injected 283 released in 1957. The 30-30 is the second iteration for the 327 with fuel injection. Only "younguns? call the 30-30 cam a Duntov. Zora is the godfather of the Corvette and was instrumental with the CERV I and the CERV ii. Camshaft seelection for Z is up to the owner. If I had a numbers matching Z motor, no way would I put a roller camshaft in it. Why? have you ever driven a Corvette with the 365 HP engine? If you haven't then keep your comments to yourself and only say them in front of a mirror for you pleasure. I have experience with 2 factory products products and it was awesome. Today, the people getting into performance are turbo and computer GEEKS. Back in the day, these people would have been a total flop. Now the NHRA caters to this crowd. I love normally aspirated engines and what it takes to make the work and the Z engine worked and the C2 365 hp engine did also. The "Off Road" cams did not kick in until 4,000 rpm but I understand it was a total "rush". My brother put a 350 HP hydraulic cam in a stock bodied '56 Chevy in his 327 and it could pick up one whee on acceleration. Fast? up to the time slip. Can the average person distinguish? NO! Please, go for the repo 30-30 cam. It will be fun with bragging rights.

I'm watching with great interest, i have a Holden 304 factory roller hydraulic cam V8 engine, i need some idea of what to fit, oi oi oi🤠

Factory iron heads, mild port work it’s highly recommended to shoot for a “Net” lift near .525”+ after lash. Don’t kill all the low end drive ability by running too much camshaft. With a 3.00” stroke you won’t need much more than a @.050” 230-235 on a tight LSA; I’d personally recommend an LSA 108-110 Max 112. Note: Factory GM cams were measured differently resulting in way different numbers compared to modern camshaft profiles. If you run a Dontov 30/30 or even the GM LT1 cam the 302 will sound mean but only make power above 4500+ rpm resulting in a nightmare driver in traffic/street.

Crower camshaft # 00321, flat tappet solid lifter. 242/248/114 - .482" intake/ .504" exhaust. (This one will sound like the 30-30 camshaft). Crower recommends camshaft # 00322, 248/254/112 - .504" / .528" for the shorter stroke.

Using the David Vizard’s formula LSA should be 111, the Howard’s cam is a great choice only it’s a roller, but the Comp 12-673-4 seems to also be a good choice with 112 LSA

That 1/16 ring package should free up some hp over those old school 5/64 rings. Some production engines are using even thinner 1mm (.039) rings which are roughly half as thick as the old 5/64 rings and are proving that they are durable enough for OEM. Using a solid roller along with the other upgrades should give you a sweet running engine!

Another good choice would be Comp 12-309-4 It’s referred to as magnum muscle, a step up from the factory cam. Has .489 lift, 248 duration at .050, and 110 LSA. The shorter duration with the tighter LSA gives almost identical overlap as the stock cam.

I would consider the last cam but with 1.6 rockers on the exhaust Those older cast heads actually did "ok" on exhaust flow especially when you compare side by side to some newer heads

Ag, the bigger Z28 cams set at .022 & .024 valve lash. Z28 optional cam dual four barrel carbs cross ram...

DV's "128 Formula" has fairly tight specifics with regards to the results. In conversation, it's been said that it targets a in-line valve wedge head with 10.5:1 CR and an average Coefficient of Discharge of the intake valve ( with an good but not trick valve job as seen with a 2.02" valve). The 128 # LCA = 128 - (CID/# of Cylinders/In Valve dia. in inches x 0.91) That gets your 108 LSA for 350 CID. As you state in your video, wander outside of that and the formula has certain caveats. Less CID and the LSA opens up. Better flow via a larger intake valve, wider LSA again. Higher CR, same thing. What I don't know, and I've asked DV directly (still waiting on his email...) is what exactly is that Torque Master cam spec supposed to produce? Best peak torque? Highest average overall torque? No idea. For the record, his Torque Master Cam selecting program and the cam I had designed by Mike Jones (Jones cams) for a drag racing orientated 350 are nearly identical. 108 LSA by the way. When I inquired about a street/strip version for the same engine, Jones spec'd a 110 LSA. As for the 302, it seems to me your targeting more than performance as the sound is a critical element of this build. At least as it appears so from this side of the keyboard. Good luck and following with interest (as always).

Custom Howard’s cam. Correct valve events are more important than lift, and with OEM castings the roller lift won’t matter anyway. What’s the ported flow??

If you’ve built 30 engines in the last few years and had zero flat lifter failures, you’re definitely doing things right. What lifters have you been using to have a perfect track record? I read and see so many posts about trashed lifters and cams and see unreal pictures! I Many builders won’t build anything with flat lifters anymore!

ed pink said it best in a lecture i went to when he was talking to a cam manufacturer he asked if it was worth it to degree the cam the manufacturer asked do you know how ? he replied of course the manufacturer said good but bottom line is unless you grind it your not changing much of anything! you are inspecting it for the most part when he gave that speech i put my degree wheel away and got a lift gage that measures actual lift of the lobe i go through and check them if i look at the cam physically and see something i dont like

Not to disagree with Vizard, but in choosing application, I'm not a max effort engine guy: operating range is my starting point, then I consider overlap before lsa, which then arrives to lift/duration for the heads. I note he does adjust his 128 number as engine size or compression comes into play. He's been plainly honest every time he says "I don't have an opinion - I have a dyno". That cannot be dismissed. I note he adjusts his 128 number [baseline factor for small blocks around 10.5:1] for big blocks and also for higher compression ratios - that is in his videos. I arrive at much the same conclusion as his 128 formula does, although I can't come anywhere close to his testing experience. That seems to be a natural result of lobe intensity limitations being a common denominator to get at other factors. It seems to me that bore size and combustion chamber size are why his [two valve] system works upon plugging in valve diameter, and I arrive by a modestly different approach noting that filling begins by exhaust pulse is key. As I see events during overlap, the bore & chamber size during overlap behave like an accumulator: the larger it is, the more help is needed for that negative signal to develop and be seen by the manifold and that means more overlap - achieved with tighter lsa for the same rpm range. Inverse is true for smaller setups. He notes bbc tend to behave as chronically undervalved, which [to me] illustrates the accumulator effect: smaller chambers [just 2 or 3 cc] wakes things up there. That said, enthusiasts might look at something cam cards can't display for a builder: managing time. A flat VE curves does not exist because the millisecond value for overlap changes throughout the operating range. Less peaky is a compromise for a more consistent response - often how split pattern cams behave. If I didn't screw up my math... a 65 degree overlap at 7000 rpm is a 3 milliseconds window. If I did make a mistake, correction is welcome. Looking forward to how this one turns out, and the gears leave room... heads are part of staying numbers correct? I wonder what the 12-673-4 lobes ground on a 109 vs off the shelf 112 would show on the dyno. I note the low lift choice on solid roller looks like period heads limitations. Ask Howards for real advice but there are two 0.535" lift lobe patterns that might interest: BR237357 (278 degree) and BR243357 (284 degree) - not sure those get you both sound and rpm range you are looking for however except using a 106 lsa.. They are kind enough to put lobe list on their site, unlike some others [thank God for Aussies who fill those gaps].

Last split duration came is going to be the best id get

Have you ever checked streach on a rod after torque untorque and retorque 3 times?

🏆

I would keep a solid lifter cam with nearly the same specs as the OE. To get it to 'sound' the same you need to maintain the same duration range, overlap, LSA range. The original I believe had a fairly late exhaust closing event due to the wide LSA and long duration. You need to maintain the original, or nearly the same specs. There's lots of things that contribute to 'sound'. Compression, individual lobe timing events, exhaust. There's only one way to keep the OE sound, use the OE cam or as close to it. I would consider the mechanical Summit cam. I wouldn't go smaller than 112 LSA Compression and exhaust timing and OL will get you the sound. You could speed the ramps up a little bit, but that's going to change the sound too. No rollers, No hydraulic, No 'modern' fast designs. You might need more compression than you have, but if you trim the cam specs down 'slightly' it'll be nearly the same sound as you're after. Almost all the aftermarket of the era had copycat grinds near the OE HP versions. You can find a catalog grind from Crower or ISKY pretty easily. Crane had a massive catalog with some great choices. They had an EXACT copy of the 3849346 cam (967251 their number) listed at 4000-7000 rpm 254/254@ .050. Alternately, you could go with the next choice down F-288-2 ground on 114 248/258 @50 lift is a little over .500 and range is 34-7200 revs. Another one to think about is the F-280-2 ground on 112 about 10 less on the intake side. But I like the F-288-2 as an improvement of the OE with the virtually the same characteristics, but a wider band.

Nice video, it seems to me that Duntov was actually a Ruskie ? He looked like on of my old relatives.

Once you get the heads flowed,then you can choose a Cam. Is it an automatic with a stall or a manual?

They used the 30-30 duntov cam in the 302 with the cross ram.

I vote for a roller on a 110. I would even see if you could get it ground on a 111. Sometimes for a few more $ you can get it done to your spec. The money vs. accuracy ratio then comes into play.

You should drill the extra lower water passage between the two middle cylinders

I feel stupid, you stated what I wrote later in your video. I guess I’m too quick to offer my own info at times, my apologies.

I believe Grumpy ran 109 lsa in his 327 ci engines which I think is in line with DV's. 109 to 110 on a 302 would probably do good.

Could you please try a Set of 32 Valve heads Made by Thunderpower for Chevy Bigböocks?

In 1968 Chevrolet went to a larger journal on the crankshaft, so are 1968 and 1969 302's large journals? I'm not including the 400. It has a 2.65 main. I like the saying RPM tales the place of torque. I'd like to see the head flow lift by lift when you are finished with them. I believe that is the only way to choose the right camshaft

I vote for the comp 12-673-4. Crower has one similar #00322S. I think if hes wanting the best of both sound and performance something needs to change. Tighter lobe separartion more than 110 or more compression to take advantage of more advertised duration.

If you put that solid roller in it will fly. When I went to a solid roller I couldn’t believe the difference. But like one other guy commented, you are gonna have to change the valve train significantly.

It’s not too hard to find NOS GM SBC camshafts on many different sites. Why not find a true 30/30 Duntov cam? If the goal is to get that original sound and keep the engine close to original then use the real deal. If the lift isn’t enough for the heads, use a higher ratio rocker. There are many options when it comes to the lifters, I’m sure you know of a good brand with a hardened foot. I’m excited to see what the final decision is!

I would run a smaller cam with tighter LSA. Around 244* intake 250* exhaust duration. Around .500 lift. On 108 LSA. It will have a healthy idle while making better low end torque than the huge 30-30 cam. The heads only need to flow about 212 cfm by .450 lift, which on old humps, will require some work but not serious porting.

I hate it when people on forums say the "chevy 302 had a short stroke so its no good on the street" that is moronic its the DZs cam and cam only only the thing that makes the statement is the windsor 302 has the same bore and stroke and there even used in trucks...... I drove a 302 in a 66 el camino 4 speed and it had a nice but milder cam and regular driving it really didnt feel much different than a 350 with similar parts and it spun right up with some rpm. Years ago I bought a summit dz cam for my 350 and chickened outwhen it came time i was afraid it would destroy the TQ i sold it to a guy with an 81 4 speed Z with a warmed over 350 with double humps and even being a old school drsign it still ran like a scalded cat.

So the 68 has vent windows and no shark gills? Or is that just the 67 ?

Why was the 283 better than the 302 ? Considering they are somewhat related.

Here's the deal, to be able to pick the close to best cam it is good to see the flow numbers first.🤷 One cam might work great with certain heads but wouldn't be the best choice for a different set of heads. Knowing the flow characteristics will help better determine the closer to optimum performance camshaft. Say if the heads don't start flowing good till after .400" lift and starts to really flow good past .500" lift and tops out over .600" lift you'll be leaving a ton of power on the table if a cam with around .550" lift is chosen. The better choice would be a cam with around .600" plus of lift, .650" to .680" would be just right. But if the heads have really good low lift flow and they top out just above .500" lift that .550" lift cam would be something to consider. You just can't pick a cam and expect whatever set of heads you bolt on to be the best cam for the combo. And another thing, if you want to spin to 10,000 RPM and still make the HP numbers rise, those heads will need to flow a tick over 300 CFM according to the Wallace Racing calculator sight. You might want to re-ask this question after you have flow numbers to post.😎👍

IMO at lot of the cam choice for the 302 depends on how close you want to duplicate the original sound. If you want the best output, without question I would do a custom solid roller from Chris Straub AFTER you have the head flow numbers. He will not design a cam for you without that info. He can manipulate the valve events to make the sound more radical, but it will have the widest powerband because it's made for the exact combination. Any other cam besides the various versions of the 30-30 or z28 cam you cannot say how close the sound will be to original. Unless you just want it to have a radical racecar sound. Then there are many choices. My choice would be a custom solid roller. You are spending the time/money to modify the heads for maximum output, put the brain of the engine it needs to maximize that head work, as well as make the best driving engine.

I would use the copy of the original. With some head work the cam will likely make more power anyway. And you always have the option of increasing your rocker ratio and taking a little lash out to improve lift. But I'm no professional

Try Elgin L46 corvette 3 cam

Many discounted these little mouse powerhouse engines back in the day, until they raced one. Great engine, looking forward to hearing it run. I'd think a similar cam in the 240 @.050 and .490 lift with 112 separation range will be great in it.

A mild solid roller should be more reliable, and a custom grind isn't much more. I'd consider direct-lube lifters for solid flat tappet, though.

Talk to David Visor about selecting cam

Are the heads 041? Or 186

So, if you wait `till you have your heads ported and look at the flow ratio if the exhaust flows more than 75% more likely a single profile, less than and you might just want a dual profile. PS thanks Mr Vizzard

Comp 268h would be a great cam for the build

Mechanical roller, although an excellent choice for output, creates a host of issues for the application. You need way more spring, requiring cutting the spring pockets, which is risky on the factory heads. You need roller rockers, which won't fit the Z valve covers, there goes the originality of the car, other Z purists will snub you for it.

I am not knocking you but I am curious why do you call it a Zed28? Is that a Canadian thing?

If you're using stock style heads 248 260 on 108

Mine has a 454 lift and 292 duration

What is a zed 28 ?

4:29 That block needs to be decked in the worst way, you can see the waves of the factory broaching, corrosion and scratching from sanding, especially between 4 and 6.

I ALWAYS use ISKY flat tappet camshafts. They are flame hardened

How do you choose a cam other than the factory grind? The 302 is the only engine that will massively lose value if you mess with it.