Thank you Jim for showing us all how to make and repair things go easier. Keep on doing things.

Thinking of doing this to my snapper have this model found and older one on Facebook with the old style perfect video for swap thanks Jim

Jim - great video on clutches. Makes me want my old Comet back instead of my Series 21 Snapper

Hi Jim, I also have the 1 pedal mower. This thing goes through friction discs every 2 years and I'm fed up with it. I'm going to do your mod as soon as I get some time or when this current friction disc fails, whichever comes first! Thanks so much for your help with this built-to-make-Snappper-rich to drive replacement parts sales (engineering failure). I dream of the time when I had the old 33 in. (2 pedal) Snapper and I only replaced that friction disc once in a decade! I hope this mod will do that for this newer snapper.

Hi Jim... got an old worn out snapper I try to glue together...ha ha...love your shows...keep em coming...

i just did this mod and it works great i did not have to redrill holes in the rubber wheel flange i used what was there and it works great macking tape trick is awesome

You are great.

Ok i watched the videos the "yoke" plate on my mower has minimal wear so i think thats ok the sping for yoke tension i moved up on top and down on bottom for max tourqe. I guess now ill check the friction plate clearance to see if i have room to move it down as per ur specs on the video. I also have side to side play on the rear axle but the bushings in and out feel tight do you have a video to reduce side play in the rear. My model is 28086s what can u tell me by that? Thanks for the help

Great Mod! This mod is easily reversible if you change your mind about it (Simply remove the four bolts/nuts that you installed and re-install the thrust-washer and drive disc plate). I have often wondered if re-placing the entire thing (7053114 "kit") would sort out the soft-start reliability issue - this is a design that either works great on your machine or works poorly (mine fell into that latter category); Anyway, I went up to hardware store and came out with: 1/4-20 (half-inch) phillips stainless-steel flat-head machine screws, 1/4-20 stainless-steel 'nylock' nuts, fresh 1/4-inch drill bit, and a non-piloted chamfer bit (the most expensive thing that I bought); I followed Jim's excellent "index-drilling masking-tape paper template" method carefully and slowly; and, a twist, I drilled this with a corded chuck-drill (yes) - just taking my time and oiling the bits and chamfer as I went along; after I drilled my first hole, I inserted one snug 1/4-20 bolt and nut to lock everything in place; did all five holes; all of it went perfectly; my chamfers came out in two flavors: perfect or ugly; so I had a couple of ugly chamfers - but they still did a great great job; I did a trial-fit on the mower to check for interference to the brake pad (wiggle that brake bad to worst-case position during this test) and no interference; so bolted it all together; I like the end result; and yes, my wife made a short video of my first wheelie; I did the wheelies on purpose so that I can learn the new behaviour of the mower in each gear; I can start-out in 1st or 5th gear now and no slipping; I do miss the soft-start, but I will not miss its poor reliability; One day I would like a semi-Ag tire for the turf and a posit-traction for this beast. Good Mod! I endorse it; it is easily reversible if you change your mind; Worst-case is you bugger this up and the entire soft-start clutch assembly is now 7053114yp - about $60.00 - but you would have to make some big mistakes to mess one up to where this would be irreversible; I used some blue thread-lock on the 1/4-20 SS machine screws; if I thought this was permanent forever mod I would hit it with red threadlock; hats-off to Jim for all the perfect little tips that made this possible; but keep in mind, you CAN do this with a hand-held corded drill - just clamp it down somehow or you may get hurt - the materials are fairly soft and easy to drill with a good bit; use some oil on it as you go along and work slowly to keep things cool.

Jim, love your videos. They have been my guide for many repairs to my snapper over the last several years. I'm thinking about doing this clutch mod. My question is why didn't you use the 5 existing holes in your disk? Thanks.

Jim, I replaced the clutch disc on my snapper. It spins freely and will not move the mower. Does the entire assembly need to be replaced? Many thanks!

i would like to talk with you about snappers i have 3 of them and i have an idea id like to share with you your vids a great you got me interested in a mower id never thought about. im retired now so it give me something to tinker on

The hole pattern in the clutch is 5 x 3.750"

Hi Jim, thanks for helping me keep my 2010 Snapper 33” to “cut another day”. I have one question, in the beginning of the video you say to use 5/16 drill bit and bolts but at the end you say to use a 1/4 drill bit and bolts. My takeaway is to indeed use the 5/16?

Hey jim im new to the snapper world but i have a single brake model with the "pad" thing that rides inside the clutch for brakes. My question is i have what looks to be a new clutch because the rubber looks good and the green round piece inside look new but my clutch has quite a bit of play in it still what does what your explaning in this video do? My mower also strugles go up hill on my yard. I moved the springs out and still no difference. Will this mod help it? Also the shifter plate which pulls up the roller and clutch assembly have minimal wear but i will try to find a new one.

I'm going to try to put on a video tomorrow night addressing this issue this is not an isolated problem I've been asked several times about this issue and I think it should be addressed with a video so you can see the problem rather than me just trying to tell you about it. it would help to have a little more information on your machine, Did you just buy it, Have you had it for a long time, Have you done any other adjustments besides installing a new clutch disc, And if you could email me direct with some pictures and a phone number it would help immensely. my email address is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com or jandrwoodworking2@gmail.com And as always work safe and have fun will talk to you soon, Jim

question about a worn drive plate, my last clutch only lasted 2 years, I noticed drive plate looking pretty rough, could I sand it smooth to keep next clutch from wearing so quickly , thanks

Hi Jim, My question is why not just use the existing holes on the drive disc and drill through them into the hub?

Jim . I want to start watching your series from the very first one. How do I pull them up in order ?

I'd probably just weld the friction disk cover to the clutch rubber wheel thing with a few spot welds and not even take anything apart. think that would work

making it clutchless is a great idea

Jim, Joe here. I watched your vids on the drive disc replacement and ordered the whole soft start kit. Don’t need it. Well it looks like my 33114S has one of the last old drive systems (motor code of 1982). I just ordered the disc only to replace the old one. My mower only had three of the 5/16 bolts installed. Do I need all five bolts, as it looks like three was working. Thanks

Can you move the holes closer to the hub so you don’t have to countersink the heads to clear the brake? When you made the alignment marks why do you put them between 2 existing bolt holes instead of moving them further away so as not to stress the existing holes?

Can you just use the rigid hub from an older mower?

ace hardware has 5/16 counersink s s bolts

Jim, wouldn't clutch replacement be easier if we used the 5 5/16" holes already drilled in the clutch disk? That way, the next time you have to replace the clutch disk, there will be no drilling required. What do you think?

Why can't you use the 5 holes already in the disc to drill and bolt to the other disc. Why 5 new holes?

If i do this to my Snapper will it do wheelies if i let the brake out in 5th gear from a stop? I think mine is a 1998 based on the serial numbers stamped on the 12HP I/C Briggs/Stratton engine. Also being its a fully locked clutch does it wear out the actual drive train and cause chains to break? Thanks in advance

did not have to drill any holes in the clutch disk used what was there

Isaac Sasson The seven holes look like so you have the option of three or five bolts

My 1977 only has one pedal

Hi Jim, is this to bypass and lockup the clutch so it's a direct drive? Isnt this alot of strain on the chain and gears? Txs

I Still have my Old Riding Snapper 10 H.P. Hi Vac but the Breaks are Working ? (( I'll Watch Since this has been Recommended ))

how to i replace the iginition switch on my sr1028 mower

what is the advantage to doing this?

how do you get the big center nut off of the chain case if the chain case is off the machine?

maybe someone can help me out with a problem. on my snapper, I changed my clutch. while tightening the clutch down, I used some channel locks to hold the axle from spinning. I put the mower down to give it a test run. with the mower in neutral and brake off, it will not roll. it feels like it's in gear but the shifter is in neutral. please help me out. I love my snapper

How about welding the damn things together? Edit: Eh...scratch that idea. If you used tape to center the outer disc, how would you get it out? Bottom line, you'd need some other method of centering the outer disc over the inner one. Edit #2: OK...on further reflection, why bother to remove the tape? Once the disc is welded, there's no need for the gap or the friction material...

why are you drilling new holes when it already has 5 holes