+Black Smoke I don't recommend going with aftermarket components or messing with the software, but a lot of guys like modifying their rigs. I don't deal with the aftermarket either since Cat frowns upon it, but I was happy to answer his questions.

Thanks! I agree I let the customer make their choices! I only give info and advice but at end of day it’s up to them. Love all your videos keep them coming!

+ed eduard Thanks for the kind words, I'm going to try and get to 100,000 subscribers.

Adept Ape what are your thoughts on a marine cam in replacement of stock 6nz cam?

+tnsportsman21 I wish I did more work on the hot rodding side of the industry because I get a lot of questions about it, but I never really go outside of stock components. The C15 can definitely make a lot more power. Look at the C18, basically a C15 with a little more displacement, but has 900 HP easily.

Adept Ape I just put a aftermarket borg Warner s400sx4 turbo on and was just looking for something else to get a little more hp at a reasonable price. Do I need to do any reprogramming for that turbo you think? Doing an overhead now and new rod and main bearings. Just wasn't sure what a stock engine could handle with that marine cam and or bigger injectors. Thanks

Adept Ape cho e xin bảng chỉ cách chỉnh C15 C18 C32 xin cam on kênh a hay lắm gui qua Zalo 0979878988

+Sebastien Hache Thanks for watching.

Brandon Portman you ever figure it out? Had the same problem the cam bearing was out just a little hammered it in a little good to go

It does just a little bit.

Hey man what did you manage to do? I have one exactly like this ,I'm thinking either removing transmission and align the transmission or just "winging it" by "feeling" the TDC.

Had one as well,someone misaligned flywheel. Brakesaver model.

He showed you, he pinned the engine with bolt

Pin it

A 22-11 code means your out of phase. You don't move the crankshaft leave it alone. Most of the time when your off that much, your head or block has been milled. I pin the flywheel on TDC. Best to have the rocker arms off, put the cam gear on and torque to spec. I than remove the cam idler gear and use a modified gear I made that is cut out on both sides. With the stub shaft slightly loose, I pin the camshaft gear dead on the timing mark. I take a set of feeler gauges that I cut both sides down and check my lash. Make sure you turn the cam gear to the right when you take the slack out, as that is normal running rotation. Your stub shaft also has a hole in it and you can put a bolt in it to start at center if you like. If my lash is 0.014 plus or minus 0.010 you are in spec. I than snug up the nuts and bolt on the stub shaft. Remove my adjustment gear, install the running gear and recheck my lash. Have seen it change some with the running gear. If lash is still good, I take gear off and torque all hardware, put gear back on and finish assembly. If your cam gear is timed and your lash is not within spec you have to make an adjustment. At this point I am not concern with my timing mark on my gear. I can always move the cam back to a timing point. What I want to know now is. How close am I to a full cam gear tooth and my lash be with in spec. Turning the cam gear to the right decreases lash. Turing the cam gear to the left increases lash. Cat does not like it on the tight side. Sometimes I will put a 0.007 feeler gauge in if I have to go in that direction and let it bottom out. Once I get it where I like it, I take adjustment gear off and turn cam gear if needed to timing point and torque, recheck etc.

The 3406B had two types, basically of VTU. So which one do you have?

I work for a Caterpillar dealer in Florida, and have overhauled more c15's than I can count. Currently in a company funded class and this question came up today in a powertrain class of all things, from my instructor. I couldn't come up with an answer for him. any help would be appreciated. please advise.

@@chancebedore2431 The camshaft drive gear has integral pendulums which act as a vibration damper for the front gear group. These pendulums are designed to counteract the torsional forces from the injector pulses. This eliminates vibration and noise. The engine also runs smoother at all operating speeds.

Cat had to change lash as heads was being machined during this time frame. Causing cam and crank sensor to be out of phase. The min spec is .004 and max is .024. I don't like the .004, as gear whine can occur. Now all heads are new.

Is yours the 605hp like mine she came out of Safeway grocery truck hauling doubles over the Rockies powerful as heck just bad oil leak at front housing

That's what I want to know because it seems like one of those components that's indestructable & would outlast all the other components. Oh nevermind lol, the next video in time is about camshaft gear backlash...so the teeth wear out over time & that's of course problematic roflcopter.

+Dennis Gravett Hi Dennis, you don't see the 3176 very often. The C12 is based on it though and they are fairly common. I don't think I've worked on one in maybe 3 years. I usually make videos about items I am working on, so probably won't be making a video on one in the near future.

+Adept Ape Thanks for the quick reply. Bummer, I figured that was the case. Oh well, I love watching your videos anyway and always learn good stuff. I selfishly hope a poor sick 3176B comes your way that needs tons of service and repair. I'll stay tuned....

Dennis Gravett 3176, at first was a 2YG, next was a 7LG, had three levels of them, 07499 and below. 07500 to 15999 and 16000 and up. Then came 3176B 9CK prefix. They was better than the other two. The 2YG's was a nightmare. No matter which of these you have the outer and inner front covers are prone to crack. You have to have updated supports, A/C and Alt. This helps but no guarantee it stops. Also power steering gear and air compressor drive gears wear and causes problems. Again updated parts are needed. If you rebuild engine, spacer block needs to come off and replace seals under it. Extra work, but saves you a big head ache down the road. Flt trucks on the 2YG's and 7LG's the fresh air line was not routed properly and a hole would get in it. Water would than run down the line into the TDM, ECM and PM and destroy all three. I wrapped a new line three coils around radiator brace to trap any water. On the intake manifold moisture would inner the system and get into the boost hose and destroy the TDM. A stand pipe (now obsolete) was needed to prevent this. The electronics on the 9CK was like the 3406E 5EK and much better.

It's just a finger tip saver part# Fts001

Lol

Are you talking about the plate that holds the rollers in? If you haven't fixed it yet that is.

@@nickforgey509 yes

@@margaretmurray3079 Is it damaging the peanut cover when it happens or only the bolts? Also your engine serial number prefix could be helpful if you have it.

@@nickforgey509 5EK and totally blew the peanut cover apart

@@margaretmurray3079 Seems like the cam might be walking out. With the cam gear off there should be a plate with three bolts in it. If some of the bolts are missing or if the plate is missing it could be your problem. It's the only thing that holds the cam in the head besides the rocker arms. Its definitely not a common problem.

180 for pounds. Thank you

3406 C is a mechanical engine using a pump and line system. Some 3406 C's was a PEEC with electronics added to the engine. But still had to pin time the pump to the engine via the hydro-mechanical VTU or the hydro-mechanical electronic control VTU.

All he does/works on it's CATERPILLAR.