Thanks for your videos Jerry. I was a stage guitar tech in the 90's and after restoring some acoustics recently I discovered your videos and it has ignited my passion so I'm going to attempt building my own dreadnought. So thanks to you and for your tunes you play also.

Love the AVE mention!! I thought that I was the only one who appreciates his way of thinking!! If you're like myself, there are many things that a rubber glove takes the real feel of your work. I have no use for something that I have to modify to suit my need. I do see how having both can usually make some things as easy as possible. Very good review.

Jerry #1- You are right about the amps on tools the higher the amps the better, I used too sell tools Many years ago & I had too go to a 6- month training on tools. #2- for your Proxon you can cut a piece of lexan to whatever size you need & use the 2 screws on the bottom of the base to attach it, Also you can add some grip tape to the metal end so it wont be as slippery to hold. 3rd Both tools are really considered hobby tools if you want a truly professional rotary tool you have too buy a Foredom*** They have many models available but they are a bit expensive But they are wicked smooth operation. Thanks Jerry & God Bless

Your honesty and frankness is valuable and refreshing. Many thanks for both..

Jerry you have really made me laugh with your comparison test, the phrase that buckled me was, you really know you can tell you've got something in your hands when your holding on to this, lol, you were so serious when delivering your verdict, i haven't laughed this much in a very long time, Great fun, thank you so much. Gonna watch this again now, brilliant fun video. Peace and Love from Bonny Scotland.

I agree with most if not all your review comments. On my bases after I get them flat I glue or 2side tape formica (you know, from countertops) to the bottom. You can spend as much time as you want to customize them (screw holes, adjustment knobs, etc.) As far as carving and inlay work, other than a blade, I use a miniature router plane (or planes, sometimes I custom design one for a particular purpose) I find I have a lot more control with a non motorized router plane than a router or dremel type tool. If I need to grind out a bunch of wood, I got lucky and found an old dentist drill. Certain rotary engravers can also work. Sometimes it just comes down to what you can find and what you're willing to spend (time or money) to get the job done. Keep up the videos, I enjoy.

Hi Gerry, my jigsaw had a knack for sometimes scratching kitchen worktops with it`s base as I cut out for sinks or hob cookers, I use both Gaffa & Masking tape (depending on what is to hand at the time), but, I run an iron over them, this softens the adhesive & increases the `tack` or grip on both, both wear eventually but, no more scratches

Hello Mr. Rosa, I'm 66 and bought a USA Telecaster 2 years ago to get me started learning how to play guitar. Your videos are excellent and the quality of your work is outstanding, I love watching you work and enjoy the little workarounds you come up with to solve simple problems, I'm a Telecaster man, I love the sound of a Tele but listening to you and your friends playing the mandolin spurs me on to try and get better. I bought a well known brand, a copy of the Dremel and the chuck fell apart in a couple of months so I replaced it and started to use the copy again but 2 months later the cooling fan disintergrated. That was me done with copies of anything, I bit the bullet and bought a Dremel 4000, three times the price of the copy and I'm in heaven with it, it's reliable and very good quality (made in Mexcico I think). To me a dremel is a Dremel, all the rest are simply Dremel copies. Thanks again for the excellent videos you produce, all the best to you and your love ones, and kindest regards, Pete.

Great review. Have been looking for another moto tool. Thanks!!

This was great! Proxxon is exactly the tool that will fit my needs. Thank you for saving me from not being fully satisfied with a Dremel.

First thing I always look at and compare is amperage Really important and glad you brought it up

For the Proxxon router-base, use self adhesive HDPE or UHMW poly tape. Woodworkers use it on machine fences. Very slick and non marring. That’s probably what you made your other base from, only it comes thinner with adhesive on it.

I have a dremmel myself and love it I use the heck out of it I’ve even had to replace the brushes for it

Really great video Jerry, now i have more information about them. Thank you from France 👍🇫🇷

Great video Jerry. Thank you.

I've about wore out my Dremel. It's a good tool but like you said "quite loud". Thanks Jerry

Proxxon also has another series which specifically designed to be handheld like a pen. For example the Micromot 230/E. The one you have is meant to be held on the body or in one of their bases. I‘m going to get the rechargeable battery version of yours since I already have two other machines from the same series with two batteries. The polisher and the band-sander. I‘m also getting the router-base and will be using the 3M blue masking tape to prevent scratching delicate surfaces. I‘m probably going to glue a neodymium magnet to each side so I can stick the whole thing to a vertical metal surface when necessary. Thanks for the video. I will take a good look at the Dremel product range when shopping around! One last tip: If I were you I wouldn’t use the fomaica surface to sand the base. I‘d use a sheet of 10mm glass which is guaranteed to be much flatter.

I have the Dremel 8220 with a 12v lithium battery, which works great for what I've used it for. Not sure the RPMs but it's got variable speed which is very handy.

The right competiter would be the Dremel 3000. I have both tools, Dremel 3000 and Proxxon IBS/E in 230V version. The Proxxon has a power of only 100W compared with 130W of the Dremel but, there is much more torque with the proxxon. If you want to polish (most in the middle range of the rpm) the dremel failed and stick a lot, the Proxxon shows much more pulling power. Both have there friends.

Thank you. This is very helpful. Greetings from Germany.

Excellent review. Thanks

Your review just the BEST 😎👍👍very comprehensive and you are really know what you talking about based on real facts ! Perfect

I've been using a B&D RTX for over 20 years, and I never had an issue once. I've routed out several pickup and tremolo cavities, and use it all time time for my custom automotive wiring installs. Heck, I even used it to polish a whole motorcycle once. My RTX has been used and abused with grinding, cutting, sanding, wire brushing, polishing, routing, and all on various materials like different metals, plastic, wood, and ceramic. I also have a Dremel 4000 and a cordless Hyper Tough and have used several other brands as well. Bottom line, it's all about preference and I prefer the B&D because of the lever lock (not push button), and it works better with my crippled CP hands. As long as it gets the job done, what difference does it really make of which brand, style, or price of the rotary tool you use. I guess people have nothing better to do, than to nit pick and get their panties in a bunch, because you're not using their favorite brand. Oh well!

i saw the same comparison you mentioned. I've used a shaft drive for at least 30, years. It had been my grandfather's the motor by Johnson (circa 1960) finally burned out, so i bought a Proxxon based upon Crimson's review. I fully agree with your discontent, too - for precisely the same reasons. I have a new-ish Dermel 4000 which works well, but I'm gonna cross my fingers and replace that motor from Wisconsin with one made in China. Guess maybe I'm too old to adapt? I really like my Dremel-made 90 on the shaft drive for had held work. Great comparison, though.

Hi, I want to let you know I enjoyed your video the most with regards to your clear and loud explaining. No long winded thing. My suggestion for you to add to you aluminium proxxon router base is to use, 3M TEFLON TAPE, which has super strong sticky backing and supper tuff slippery smooth property of the tape. This might server your needs. I have used this tape in my work a lot where two metal sliding surfaces is required and no oil or grease is allowed for lubrication. Most microprocessor manufacturing equipments used it. It is opaque grey colour and comes in the form similar to electrical insulation tape. Your router base will not scratch the delicate things you do. Hope this help. Best regards K C Ung. Australia.

Yes, they do still make the 4000. I have 2 3000's at work and one at home, along with several of the older models I don't remember the numbers on. I've used Dremels for decades, and will most likely stick to them. The Proxxon looks nice, sounds good, but doesn't sell me on usability. Guess I'm a creature of habit, and I hold it like a pen, too. Between that and router base use, that's 95% of what I do with a rotary tool. Good review, covers a lot of the things we in the instrument world use these things for.

The laminate , counter top stuff, or the HDME are probably better , but I would just use what I have which is thin Perspex . Think 1/16 th. Drill holes to access the screws, and contact adhesive it in place. I really Love your repair work. Please don't pay any attention to the Negative comments.. God Bless you, from Glenn in Australia.

Hey Jerry! thanks for the info, as for the base, I think you could polish it to 2000 grit and some paste wax with steel wool-like in olden days! You should have no worries. And if the base is steel and you truly want it bigger, weld new metal to it.

Thank you for sharing your upfront very honest video. "I like it". You said you have used the Dremel 4000 every day for the past 15 years. And it still works great. That is good enough for me. But I truly know you are being honest about it. If you check back through past videos. I ask you what the Name and Model Number of Dremel was. I never gave it a thought about the Amps. Over the years. I just buy the cheapest or what's on sale, lol. Great video. Very educational. Thumbs up always to you and your videos Jerry. Have a Blessed Week.

I had a similar problem with my metal router table so I glued a sheet of Formica to it. No more problem!

"Slicker than snot on a doorknob!" I'll take one!!!!! :) This is the tool I use to floss with, Jerry! ;)

Jerry, just mt two cents. The issue you had with the bit slipping was the chuck, not the motor. I don’t know anything about the Proxxon, but if it had a chuck accessory like the Drexel the same issue would exist. Someone mentioned runout. IMHO not an issue in a hand held tool, but definitely if the tool is in a rigid device like a CNC machine or drill press. Thanks for the review.

I have three Dremels and very happy with all of them. just got a 4300 awesome. with Dremel, no problem with parts or assesories.

Thanks for doing this Jerry. I was just about to replace my very ancient (1975?) Dremel, and was wondering about the difference. I don't want to spring for a Foredam unless I have to.

I hope this is of help, Teflon tape(not the plumper type) would work for a slick, not scratch surface to put on that router base. It is like those pads or feet of a computer mouse. An example can be found on Amazon found as "CS Hyde Conformable PTFE Tape With Silicone Adhesive"

Jerry, to make you Proxon base larger, you could just make a rectangular add on piece, out of aluminum or wood, to attach to the side where the sliding pins stick out.

Great review my friend, and I agree with you on everything

I say go with a plastic coating. For me the amps and top speed aren’t that critical since I rarely use these tools at full bore-low noise is what I want-but once you mentioned the handling you had me convinced. Nobody should have to use that silly collet tool when a wrench is so much easier, and that terrible grip would be the deal breaker for me. Thanks!

Jerry, they make HDPE tape that could be used for your new metal base. You’ll likely have to mill a bit more off of the guide jig you built though. You could also just add a piece of HDPE to the base (read Walmart cutting board) and make it any size or shape you want, but again, that would mean re milling a new jig to fit the new base plate size and thickness.

I have a takemine acoustic electric I bought in 2004 I really struggle with bar cords Always have I use elixir strings It’s sounds awesome If always wondered if a fret job And custom work would help with the lightest action I could get without vibration This guitar plays very well without issues I got it at guitar center Any suggestions?

I've been a Dremel user for many years. When my previous one got to the point where the runout was way too much I bought a 4000. Alas this one has not lived up to my experience with the older one. It says my 4000 was made in Mexico and I don't know if they have multiple manufacturing plants which might impact quality. The current one has an intermittent on/off switch, the speed control is very erratic, and it gets very hot after about ten minutes. I'll confess I'd be reluctant to risk another Dremel purchase but I'll worry about it when the time comes. Thanks for a great review and comparison, Jerry. Cheers, John

Good comparison

Two real good tests for rotary tools are “run out” and torque per RPM. I once saw a spreadsheet comparing all the popular rotary tools and the higher end Drexel tools like the 3000 & 4000 simply smoked all the competitors in run-out and torque....up to 2x the price. Past that price range the micro die grinders like a tool & die maker might own smoked the Dremel tools.....but those die grinders are @ $400-500.

I'd be really curious to see if you liked the Dremel Forti-Flex better than the 4000, if you ever have a chance to try it, since it's got 2.5A to work with in addition to the pen-shaped hand tool. I know you said you didn't like the flex shaft attachment for the 4000, but I've heard good things about the Forti-Flex.

Jerry Thanks ! ... nice review I live a much happier life not caring about other peoples opinions

thank you Rosa . suggestion if you will on the proxxon try past wax ?? i do not know do not have a proxxon .

I looked in one of my motor reference books, and in general, DC motors are 30% more efficient than AC motors. This is due to a secondary magnetic field being generated by the permanent magnets in the DC motor, which is not present in the copper winding in the AC motor. Without a direct torque measurement at the tool chuck, it would be difficult to make any claim as to which on is "better" based strictly upon the rated maximum electrical amperage of the tool.

One last thing, here. The outside ring that you're holding onto in your pencil grip unscrews. I don't know if yours does this, it being that old, but when you unscrew it, the hole in that fits over the outside of the chuck, and can be used instead of the wrench. It's handy to use, especially when you lose or just can't locate the wrench. I've gotten to where it's my first go to whenever I change bits. Check it out, it yours doesn't, I'll bet you can order one from Dremel. It's a very useful thing that they thought up. ETA: Okay, TWO last things. On your router base, check into the UHMW plastic that is adhesive backed. It's about 1/32" thick, and is great for fences, jigs, anywhere you need to have a slick surface that won't scratch anything. Woodcraft, among other places, have it. It goes a long way, too.

not even halfway through the video and this was the only internet research I needed to decide to buy the 4000. Unfortunately I spent 30 minutes with GPT / other youtubers / crap all over the place before I got here. Thanks so much.

The Dremel is an AC motor. Proxxon uses a DC motor and converts AC to DC in the tool. You can't go by Amp ratings since you're comparing an AC tool to a DC tool. I'm not sure there's an easy way to make a 1:1 comparison based on maximum amperage draw alone. The DC motor is one of the reasons the Proxxon is so much quieter than the Dremel. Where you should see a real difference is at lower RPM where motor torque on the DC motor should be greater than the on the AC motor at the same speed. If you look at torque curves on DC electric motors, they need very little voltage to reach maximum torque. As an example, I have some custom built 12 volt DC motors and the torque goes up to maximum at 3 volts and is flat to 12 volts.

I have a Dremel 3000 with 1.2amps with a max rpm of 32,000, I've had it for years and has never failed me; and as the saying goes, if it ain't broke.......

Would a plasti-dip finish work on the base?

Mr. Rosa I am a big Dremel fan, I own 5 of them set up for different job applications. I've had 2 proxxon tools that in my estimation were just junk, they didn't last very long and ended up in the trash bin. I'm a wood worker and a carver and have a lot of dremel tools but I will never buy a dremel cordless again the batteries are crap. sorry about the small rant. Love your work and videos. PS the music is great too Thanks Dan

Hay Jerry i know you can repare cases I have my dad’s guitar and the storage compartment has come apart the half that has the lid connected how would you suggest to fix it ty arland

Unfortunately, your conclusion is not credible, because you obviously already decided in advance that you like the Dremel better. Amps are not the right data, but the power, which is in Watts, with the Proxon having the same power at 5,000 or 20,000 revolutions, while the Dremel reaches its maximum power only at the highest revolutions. Last but not least, the Proxon rotates at 20,000 revolutions even under load, while with the Dremel the revolutions drop from 30,000 to 10,000 under load, which I noticed in practice when I was drilling printed circuits, my Dremel only lasted about a year. And last but not least, it is necessary to choose another Proxon, say Micromot 230E, as a pen.

The proxxon has a permanent magnet motor the Dremel is old brushes so louder. I also have the 4000 and it's a great tool indeed.

Mr. Rosa, Good video thanks for the comparison. On a side note whatever happened with your 3D printer from episode 268. I was looking forward to seeing what you were able to do with it. Thanks again, John.

I have both the Dremel, the Proxxon and actually several others. I will throw in my two cents. They are different tools that have a similar form factor. The Proxxon is a lot better for attaching to things with the machined collar. It has much less runout than the Dremel. It has significantly superior cooling for extended time running it. I use the Proxxon with a tool holder (the sell them or you can make one) as a tool post grinder in my lathe. The drill press stand for it is really nice as well. Works really well for tiny drills. The Dremel has a lot more variety in the types of attachments you can get for it. I agree it is a lot more comfortable for hand held work and It does have noticeably more power. The oddball threaded neck makes it hard to make other holders. I would stick on some of the UHMW-PE tape to the router base. It is nice and slippery and really tough.

I have a tendency to buy the more expensive, higher-powered tools anyway, and I have been ridiculed for paying extra when the less expensive tool does the same thing. In a sense, yes. I have had problems with tool slippage in the Dremel chucks and one of the worst was the collet chuck. No matter how tight I thought I had it, it still slipped. On that same Dremel, and I don't remember what model it was, there was a serious vibration at the working end of the tool. It was like holding Cicada in your hand while it was making its' ratchety noise. That tool is long gone, to say the least. Subsequent Dremels have been fine. The other, I think, was just a lemon that sneaked through quality control. Good eval on your part I believe!

Was about to go with the Proxxon, but with your review I decided on the Dremel, I guess one can't beat tried and true.

If you want close up precision and something to hold like a pen use the flexi-shaft you can buy for the proxxon . One of the reasons the Dremel is noisier is not just the power but the tolerances in the build especially in the bearings which leads to higher vibration . This is a factor if you use your rotary tool for extended periods, the noise over a long period of time could be wearing too . This might be part of the reason that some are saying that the Proxxon is more of a "professional" tool, it could be those that use their rotary tool for a large part of the working day. Maybe if you are doing work which demands short bursts of high speed and high power then the Dremel is for you . I have used earlier Dremel models and the vibration was the thing that bothered me most . If you are exposed to this for a long period of time you can end up with peripheral nerve damage in your finger tips.

I agree with your findings... love dremel , but i personally use a battery op milwaukee....i cant live without that one... I use it home building and mechanic work and much more.... The most valuable tool i have ever owned...not in price....in usage...

I know you have machinery you could use to cut a checkering like is on the grip of many pistol and rifles to make a grip on the Proxxon so you could hold it better@

What You need is 1st a 25$ set Walmart, Aldi to learn with the tool. 2nd. a Dremel best all around tool. 3 rd proxxon professional quiet precise. As long as Your tool is not broken, the Quality of the bit You put in the chuck makes the biggest difference. Love my garage sale thing 8€. Somebody put a mini chuck on a 200W Black&Decker motor of a Sander. 8000 rpm fix. Flawless hobby work. Sure I could more appreciate the creator more than the Sellers.

Meh, I just bought the Proxxon... But You did a great review, almost makes me buy the Dremel😉 I enjoyed watching, it was a refreshing difference compared to other reviews. I'll see how the Proxxon works out for me, maybe I'll put some tape around the neck- something like that. Anyways, thanks for this nice review, I'll stick around 😊

Winner the low speed torque: Proxxon Proxxon: 3 "jaws" steel collet vs Dremel 4 jaws brass, or alu collet. Which is better?

I don't know if this Dremel has it also but on my cordless Dremel 8200 you can unscrew the rubber ring where you hold the Dremel between thumb and index-finger. With that ring you can screw and unscrew the cutting-tool with two fingers. So you can litterly put a new cutting-tool out and in about 15 seconds. If you switch often tools then you know how much this function is worth. It's almost worth buying the Dremel above any other multitool. Also my 8200 is cordless witch i always prefer above one with a cord. I have two battery's, witch are bosch battery's with Dremel label. On one batery i can use the 8200 about 45 minutes. That's enough to charge the empty 2nd battery. You can always buy more battery's if needed.

That dremal has been in so many videos if I saw it in real life I would ask for its autograph

Jerry, I think much of the increased noise, with the Dremel is the fact the Dremel has a plastic gear case and the Proxon has a metal gear case. I doubt the noise is your bearings. If it was, you would be getting dome bad cuts. I have an older and lesser model and it made terrible noise right out of the box.

Great review. So what your basically saying is that you will use the new router for bindings because you like how your depth gauge attaches to the new router base and you get good results. Is that a fact? lol!

I have a Dremel 4300 on order, due to supplier delays world wide they are very hard to come by here in Australia currently hopefully not much longer. I will use it as a replacement for my old (30 year old) current Dremel making pins and modifications to components for doorlocks and padlocks. The 4300 is more powerful than the 4000 and has several improvements the big ones are far better cooling, 1.8Amps and 35000 RPM

I bought a Proxon and returned it. Like you found it's hard to hold and in my opinion way overpriced for what it is. I've an old Dremel Professional Model 398 that's still going strong that I replaced the front bearing and brushes in as I wore it out after 5 years or so and I bough a 4000 last year. I still prefer the smaller old Dremel for detail hand work and the bigger 4000 for routing. I've also a Makita 700W trim router for even bigger jobs - great for cutting out pickup and neck slots in solid body electric guitars.

Nice review however you should check out the Milwaukee m12 cordless rotary tool. I went through my 3rd Dremel and was looking at the Dremel. 8220 vs the Milwaukee. The Milwaukee is more powerful and imo has a better grip. Also all of the Dremel accessories fit on the Milwaukee. Battery recharge on Milwaukee 30 min. Vs 1 hr Dremel. But if you are into the Milwaukee cordless m12 system extra batteries shouldn’t be a problem. M12 may sound louder but when installed keyless chuck sound did reduce. Also 5 year warranty compared to 2 yr Dremel.

I was going to ask about torque (especially startup torque). Ive had a couple of (the hobby type) dremels and while maybe abit loud, they definately are full of torque.

Contact cement some plastic laminate (Formica) onto that base. If you want to extend it, use some thin delrin and two sided tape. Don't think contact cement will hold delrin.

One is ported and polished and head surfaced to increase CR for more power and the other has PTFE treated UHMW bearing surfaces to make it glide easier. Smokey Yunik would be proud. Win on Sunday, sell on Monday.

Spray on Teflon might help that base. Never tried it, but just a thought. Did you ever change the bearings and clean the fan and commutator in that dremel? That can significantly reduce noise and vibration. I would agree that the dremel 3000 and 4000 are superior to the proxon, but have noticed that some (but not all) fairly inexpensive rotary tools are equal in quality and have more power than both the dremel and proxon. The drawback with these alternatives is it can be difficult to find spare parts and you have to check for compatibility of dremel accessories if you intend to use them.

In my opinion I think the Proxxon has more cutting power or low end torque, when i used my Dremel 3000 to cut a chain link it would stall when to much pressure was applied and the Proxxon seem to me stronger when I cut into metal. I have both and I prefer the Proxxon.

I have been thinking about getting a Dremel for a while now. I live in the UK so the products here will probably be different to yours. There is nothing that pleases me more than a balanced, reasonable, rational comparison of stuff with no ulterior motive (sponsorship) ...i now know what i want from a Dremel, and what i don't.....Peace Mr RSW.

UMHW subplate for the base. 1/4” would give you room for countersunk flathead screws to attach. Led flashlight to see the work. Inlays will be much easier.

I have not heard of Proxxon tools before. Thanks for doing the comparison and posting it! Thanks also, for the amperage rating tip. This makes sense, amps in electricity relate to torque output.

Hi, I will say... the advice about amperage is fair and right. P+U*I , not to much to argue, is Ohm law :-)... the voltage (U) being the same for both... "I" the intensity in Amps make the P, (power in watts) bigger. About the noise, naturally a more powerful motor will produce more noise. But don't forget Jerry, your bearings in the Dremel are 15 years old (I assume you never change them) and I tell you from experience, a good bulk of a motor noise comes from the bearings. There are specialised machines we use in motors maintenance that by reading the noise frequency of a bearing tell you if needed to be exchanged... but I speak about big motors I work with. I'm a railway electrical engineer. But bearings are not responsible for the majority of the noise... the brushes are... and the Dremel is not a brushless motor. I assume you did not change them also. No need to touch it if its works.. . but I kindly advise you to check them. Are the small buttons with a screwdriver slot on the side of the body on your Dremel. The end semicircular face of the brush must be shiny and must not present any chip or flash marks on the sides. if you find them like this, buy a set from Dremel, polish little bit the rotor collector and exchange the brushes. About the key for the mandrel... here a tip: The rubberised end from the Dremel can be used as a key for the mandrel. You unscrew this and shifted litle bit up to the mandrel, you will se, it cannot be taken out unless you align with the slot of the mandrel. Is purposely done like this to be used as a key... give you more grip by the diameter and by the rubber surface. (the one that you dont take out to fix the flexible cord :-) because you don't like them.... me to, I don't like the flexible cord also) Other pleading in Dremel favour... But I will not say Proxxon is not a good tool. Proxxon are excellent also. I like the options that Proxxon offer, the base and etc... looks more profi in metal when the genuine Dremel are more "hobby"stile plastic let say. For the bottom of the Proxxon base, I use a piece of white vegetable cutting board. you buy this with few dollars and is a PPA. An relatively soft polypropylene not to damage your knife... and is food grade so nothing stick to it, Is basically teflon and is slide like a dream on all surfaces. All the best, nice job!

Just a question, I dont know if I understood this correctly but I think you said you wanted a second rotary tool so you could leave the router attachment on one of them and not have to swap all the time? How come you didnt just get an actual router instead, you get pretty decent ones (corded or cordless) in the same price range, come in different sizes depending on what you need, have way more bits and possibilities, and quite frankly are much better at actual routing. Is there some other reason why a second multitool is better? Again, just curious. Genuine question.

how about clear pick guard plastic

I had a b&d I liked not enough accessories though

Interesting how on at least a couple of features you and Ben disagreed on which you preferred. The grip was one of them. Just goes to show how personal a thing the feel of tools can be I suppose.

You should compare runout on the tip of the tool. The PROXXON is definitely the more accurate one.

you could put 20mm collar with screw tightening on that proxxon. Don't know if there is any commonly sold, but I think it would be too difficult make like from wood. Similar to that dremmel's bolster/cross-guard. Wood could feel nice to hand. What about torque on different rpm levels. I know that those two have different motors graphite-brush(dremmel) vs brushless(proxxon). I did myself buy proxxon (230/E smaller than that IB/E) for that noise level and I have older dremmel 3000 which brushess worn out. Unfortnuatly dremmel don't yet manufacture corded brushless drills, maybe some day though (that is one reason why proxxon is more silent).

My dremel 4000 i have had for 4 years is the best most useful tool i have ver owned, just yesterday i used it to cut and plug a gass leak in our house, cut throught 15mm copper pipe like butter and smooth.

I have replaced the brushes in my Dremel , but it is old .

Glue or double tape velvet.

I don't think that IBS/E is meant to be held in hand.. You need a flex shaft for hand work. If you want the tool in hand buy a FBS or Micromot.. I had a dremel on cnc engraver and the vibration is just crazy... I returned it same day.

I build model tall ship's and since I purchased a Foredom flex shaft my dremel's sit in a box.

Proxon = 20mm mounting near the chuck = can be mounted on any CNC and provides huge stability Dremel = stupid body shape = hand held only And when it comes to power there are two and only two factors: Brushless is far stronger than brushed Larger diameter rotor = higher torque

Maybe a piece of clear self-adhesive pick guard material on the bottom?

Can a person use this Dremel to engrave Glass?

Dremel has been in use for quite some time. This makes the bearings and gears wear out and will make more noise!!

My experiences it comes down to smoothness of Balance I’ve had trouble with Dremel vibrating I know I have an older USA Dremel it’s not a 4000 it might be a 3500 but it was while they were still built in USA which I try to swear by. that’s first time I’ve seen one of those 4000 but it is a ball bearing and it still vibrates if you wanna see a real like top-of-the-line tool you would have to spend $1000 but you should see a precise I may still have it but it was broken or needed brushes but my dad was a motor pattern maker and a precise runs 48,000 RPM and it is highly precision and there is no vibration. That’s something else you might consider I see that Proxxon makes a belt driven deburring tool I would think that would be the handier tool for many other task I am considering getting one. they also make a battery operated one. Also you might not want to wind those things up without a tool in it pieces can go flying and actually that’s how my dad got the precise they told him to take it home because a guy took out his eye with it.

As some others have mentioned, that Proxxon is not meant to be a handheld precision tool (and neither is that Dremel). Proxxon has a lot slimmer and lighter tools for that like Micromot 230/E which I have. I have at least average sized hands and Dremels with any power are WAY too bulky to even consider without the flex shaft. So your opinion isn't really useful to most people.

A 1/8th "piece of thin HDPE countersunk, and screwed to the base may be a fairly easy solution to the metal base on the Proxxon.