A loud hum could mean your bearings are shot. That's what happened to mine. Luckily I only had to replace the bearing on the pulley side. It got water in it and destroyed the balls. The bearing on the flywheel side was ok-no water damage.

I started by positioning an engine hoist with the hook about 1 to 2 feet above the 12 o'clock position of the flywheel. I attached a 3" BOW TYPE GUNNEBO SAFETY SHACKLE to the hoist hook and fastened the shackle to one end of a 2" wide "LiftAll TS1-80220" 20' TOW-ALL VEHICLE RECOVERY STRAP. I dropped the other end down to 6 o'clock, then on the other side up to 12 o'clock, crossed over to the other side and then back down to 6 o'clock, crossing over again and up to 12 o'clock finally ending up with with sling loop ends next to each other but opposite sides. I disconnected the sling from the shackle and laid the ends over the opposite sides on the top of the flywheel. It took me a few attempts, but the sling finally appeared neat and symmetrically around the flywheel, symmetrically around the rotor shaft with a little room to work. Next I took a T.A.P (573-759-6068) 2" flat hook truckers load ratchet strap (break strength 10,000lbs, WLL 3,335lbs) WSP 1-800-535-0347 and looped it around the circumference of the flywheel only once, positioning the ratchet mechanism at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock, pick whatever works for you. At 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock it should pinch the sling between the strap and the flywheel and not allow the strap to move. Tighten the s@#+ out of the ratchet strap to keep the sling from moving - it MUST stay at 6 o'clock & 12 o'clock or serious injury can occur if the flywheel slips out. Re-position everything if it is not absolutely perfect - your safety depends on it. Connect the shackle to the sling ends, then the shackle to the hoist. Apply only enough lifting force to take the weight of the flywheel off of the rotor shaft, and yes you will have to work around the sling now. There should be 3 bolts and 3 threaded holes on the flywheel. Remove the bolts from the clearance holes that fasten the flywheel to the threaded QD bushing. Next, clean out the threaded holes really, really good, using PT Blaster, a spray cleaner of your choice and a dull tap if necessary. Spray PT Blaster in the threaded holes: it will get between the QD flange and the flywheel and hopefully get to the taper and maybe help loosen the flywheel up. Now could be a good time to wait a while. You can't be cautious enough here. I used new grade 8 bolts, lubricated them and threaded them in until I felt them bottom on the QD bushing. Next, ONLY TURN EACH BOLT a 1/16th of a turn at a time, wiggle the flywheel, say a prayer and move on to the next bolt, turn it a 1/16 turn and wiggle the flywheel, say a prayer. Repeat until the flywheel separates from the bushing. You cannot be too patient here! Be careful or you will CRACK the cast iron QD bushing and cause yourself more trouble than you can imagine, and I can't help you then! Before attempting this watch as many videos on QD bushings as you can. Also, make sure the weight of the flywheel is off the shaft (by feel), turn each 'back off bolt' a very small amount (1/16 of a turn) and wiggle the flywheel after each bolt 1/16 rotation. I used PT Blaster everywhere too. Good luck & let me know how you make out.

Thank you for taking the time for such a detailed response. I have finally got it but back together after having to purchase a $180 taper lock bushing. I broke mine running the bolts in. From there I had a piece of tilubing I slid over the shaft and used all thread and a plate similar to how you put the bearings in, to get the taperlock separated from the flywheel. I also found that a set of snow chains work good to lift the bearing. Thanks for the help and the advice have a good dylay

How thick are the steel plates and do yall remember the dimensions of them?

How thick of plate did you use and where did you get the taper lock bushing? In case i break mine replacing the bearings

3700 lbs (4 cyl, 12" blades)