Sure, ask away! I’ll do my best to answer.

@@chrisu2269 looks like you have the variable speed model. Mine is as well, but has replacement reeves drive pulleys and associated hdwe. Is yours working? can you get some photos of the variable speed mechanism- just the middle, moving sheave. My motor and countershaft are original and fine. Thanks!

If you are not 'delighted', definitely. Make friends with a good machinist who has access to a surface grinder and offer him tree work. He will probably make a fixture for grinding all 4 at the same time so buy him lunch every opportunity you get.

Older (mfg April 1964) ENERPAC "HOLL-O-RAM" Model RC-112 12 ton, 1 1/8 stroke

I found it...6316-Z, got them for $45 on ebay. Wow, the flywheel was tough to remove! Took a 20 ton hydraulic jack puller.

Genuine Altec Parts (They purchased the Asplundh Whisper product line)

Sorry, no I didn't. They're pretty easy to change & set, just be careful & take your time! Contact Altec Direct at 877-GO ALTEC, option 1 and if you have the JEY series, buy the JEY manual 749-30004 and a new cutter bar from Altec. I cleaned everything after disassembly, cleaned all tapped holes with taps, I bought new bolts from Fastenal, used anti-sieze and the proper (wet) torques, and had my machinist friend Rob C. sharpen my blades on his surface grinder. The JEY series machines are awesome when well maintained. Please see the credits at the end of the last video for more support available.

Agreed.

I will register it soon, still cleaning up a Turret we modified to fit.

I used NSK 6316ZZC3E NS7S 80 x 170 x 39 Double Shielded C3 FIT Precision Ball Bearing (Abec 5). Contact Altec for their latest recommendation.

Have you used the machine much since the bearing change and do the bearings you used seem to be holding up well. Mine (that I’m currently changing) have been in the machine over 35 years and have had hundreds of tons of brush ran through them. If I get the right bearings this time I won’t have to worry about changing them again.

Thank you, it really did turn out nice. Current plans are to re-install the beautiful huge original 1930's? 3 phase fwd-stop-rev switch but with it running the low voltage VFD control circuit. Should be pretty cool to use the original old controls

I started by positioning an engine hoist with the hook about 1 to 2 feet above the 12 o'clock position of the flywheel. I attached a 3" BOW TYPE GUNNEBO SAFETY SHACKLE to the hoist hook and fastened the shackle to one end of a 2" wide "LiftAll TS1-80220" 20' TOW-ALL VEHICLE RECOVERY STRAP. I dropped the other end down to 6 o'clock, then on the other side up to 12 o'clock, crossed over to the other side and then back down to 6 o'clock, crossing over again and up to 12 o'clock finally ending up with with sling loop ends next to each other but opposite sides. I disconnected the sling from the shackle and laid the ends over the opposite sides on the top of the flywheel. It took me a few attempts, but the sling finally appeared neat and symmetrically around the flywheel, symmetrically around the rotor shaft with a little room to work. Next I took a T.A.P (573-759-6068) 2" flat hook truckers load ratchet strap (break strength 10,000lbs, WLL 3,335lbs) WSP 1-800-535-0347 and looped it around the circumference of the flywheel only once, positioning the ratchet mechanism at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock, pick whatever works for you. At 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock it should pinch the sling between the strap and the flywheel and not allow the strap to move. Tighten the s@#+ out of the ratchet strap to keep the sling from moving - it MUST stay at 6 o'clock & 12 o'clock or serious injury can occur if the flywheel slips out. Re-position everything if it is not absolutely perfect - your safety depends on it. Connect the shackle to the sling ends, then the shackle to the hoist. Apply only enough lifting force to take the weight of the flywheel off of the rotor shaft, and yes you will have to work around the sling now. There should be 3 bolts and 3 threaded holes on the flywheel. Remove the bolts from the clearance holes that fasten the flywheel to the threaded QD bushing. Next, clean out the threaded holes really, really good, using PT Blaster, a spray cleaner of your choice and a dull tap if necessary. Spray PT Blaster in the threaded holes: it will get between the QD flange and the flywheel and hopefully get to the taper and maybe help loosen the flywheel up. Now could be a good time to wait a while. You can't be cautious enough here. I used new grade 8 bolts, lubricated them and threaded them in until I felt them bottom on the QD bushing. Next, ONLY TURN EACH BOLT a 1/16th of a turn at a time, wiggle the flywheel, say a prayer and move on to the next bolt, turn it a 1/16 turn and wiggle the flywheel, say a prayer. Repeat until the flywheel separates from the bushing. You cannot be too patient here! Be careful or you will CRACK the cast iron QD bushing and cause yourself more trouble than you can imagine, and I can't help you then! Before attempting this watch as many videos on QD bushings as you can. Also, make sure the weight of the flywheel is off the shaft (by feel), turn each 'back off bolt' a very small amount (1/16 of a turn) and wiggle the flywheel after each bolt 1/16 rotation. I used PT Blaster everywhere too. Good luck & let me know how you make out.

Im trying to get my flywheel off too hope nothing breaks

Timothy Carey did you get yours off?

julesvern1872 man you need to film what you just covered ! I’d put you on so many forestry sights you’d be close to famous ! Payed any way. You sound like the guru of these little monsters . You have a web sight or video on these chippers . I’m very much a fan already !

I bought both blank plates for roughly $10 ea from Joseph Fazzio's steel and metal liquidators new castle de 19720. They charged roughly about an additional $3 per hole to punch them using their 'metal worker', which was well worth it! To see 3/4" holes being punched thru 3/4" plate in 10 seconds is awesome, very awesome. Sooo much better than using a Bridgeport if you don't need the precision!!! Everything was easy to source except the Enerpac with the hollow ram. That was a yard sale find from an old Bethlehem Steel machinist who lived in my neighborhood. Thank you Sir, RIP.

A loud hum could mean your bearings are shot. That's what happened to mine. Luckily I only had to replace the bearing on the pulley side. It got water in it and destroyed the balls. The bearing on the flywheel side was ok-no water damage.