How to change the outer tie rods on a Ford Ranger. This truck is a 1998 Ford Ranger, 2wd model. Worn tie or failing tie rods can cause play in the steering, irregular tire wear, wandering, clunking, or stiff steering. Considering the alignment could have been affected by the new tie rods, I would highly recommend taking your vehicle in for an alignment. Improper alignment can cause handling issues and tire wear issues. #ford #fordranger #mazdabseries
Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/2NLVKqi
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3boWJ8j
Canada:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/3btNtPY
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3aDZIKR
Outer tie rods (Canada): www.autopartsway.ca/partdetai...
Outer tie rods (USA): www.autopartsway.com/partdeta...
US website: www.autopartsway.com
Canadian website: www.autopartsway.ca
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-1/2” wrench
-13/16” wrench
-wire brush
-paint marker
-jack with jack stands
-tuning fork
-hammer
-pliers
-new tie rods
Procedure:
-safely elevate the front of the truck
-remove both the passenger and driver’s side wheels
-starting with the passenger side first, it’s best to turn the steering to the right to access that tie rod the easiest
-use a wire brush to clean up the threads on the inner tie rod end
-use a paint marker to mark the position of the inner tie rod
-loosen the lock nut which holds that adjustment in place
-the inner tie rod has a hexed portion where you can fit on a wrench
-the inner tie rod uses a 1/2” and the lock nut uses a 13/16”
-back that nut off about a 1/2” and then use a paint marker to mark the threads so you can keep the position of the tie rod
-remove the nut on the ball joint side connecting it to the steering knuckle
-these have a cotter pin, but can be hard to remove with age so you can sheer them off when removing the castle nut
-break the ball joint free, for this I am using a tuning fork
-now spin the tie rod off
-you may need to clean the mating surface with a wire brush
-compare the old and new tie rods to ensure they are the same
-make sure the new tie rod end comes up to the paint line on the threads of the inner tie rod
-reinstall the taper back into the steering knuckle, then install the castle nut
-there will be a hole in the threaded shaft, this is for the cotter pin and needs to align with the castle nut
-the castle nut torque specification is 44 to 59ft lbs
-ensure that castle nut aligns with the hole in the threaded stud, then install the new cotter pin and bend over the ends
-run back that lock nut on the inner tie rod and tighten it down
-moving onto the opposite side of the truck, mark the position of the tie rod using a paint marker
-I have cleaned up the threads with a wire brush
-loosen and back off the locking nut for the tie rod using a 1/2” and 13/16” wrenches
-use a paint marker to mark the distance on the threads
-try to remove the cotter pin
-using a 13/16” wrench, remove the castle nut and it will sheer off the rest of the cotter pin
-break that taper loose using a tuning fork to break it free.
-install the new tie rod and light it up with the paint marking
-install it back into the steering knuckle
-install the new castle nut, this time around the castle nut required a 1 inch wrench
-the castle nut torque specification is 44 to 59ft lbs
-install the new cotter pin and bend over the ends using needle nose pliers
-now tighten down the lock nut against the outer tie rod
-and reinstall the wheels
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