He is the David Attenborough of off road adventures

In August 2018, equipped with our Front Runner roof rack and accessories, my partner and I set off in our 2005 Land Cruiser Prado for the Ais Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park and Southern Namibia. Noise from the roof rack was minimal and vehicle handling was okay despite strong head and cross winds. On the whole. the road conditions getting to the Northern Cape were excellent, so no test for the off-road capability of the gear. However, this changed on our approach to Sendelingsdrift from Alexander Bay - the gravel road became very corrugated. Suddenly there was an unbelievable and unbearable noise. We immediately stopped and checked for the source. It took some time to identify where it was coming from but eventually I discovered that the roof rack had failed. Where the foot rail had been bent to provide a base for the tray to be attached and a gusset added to provide strength, the weld along the gusset had failed and the bend had cracked through.This occurred on both sides of the second to last connection at the rear of the vehicle. I removed the 45 litre water container and moved the spare wheel forward and we were able to complete our trip (regularly inspecting for signs of other failures). For a month we had to put up with terrible noises and the worry of further failures, but we managed to complete our month-long expedition. Front Runner provided new foot rails but did not provide any assurance that the same thing would not happen again. I fitted the new foot rails and for this year's expedition to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Makgadikgadi Salt Pans we had a rooftop tent. On the road across the park from Mabuasehube to Nossob the new foot rail failed in the same place as last year. This time I fitted a bracket by drilling into the side of the foot rail and this kept it together and prevented any noise. When I contacted Front Runner on our return they admitted that the welding of the gusset had not been to standard and have sent me replacement foot rails from a new batch. My dilemma now is that I have the rack and numerous accessories but I do not trust the foot rails. Perhaps I will add brackets to reinforce the structure, just to be safe...

You were 2 years ahead of time with this issue Andrew , the 4x4 KZfaqrs are all making videos on racks failing because of cheap mounting hardware or not understanding the difference between static and dynamic loads .

This is all well and good except for the fact I paid a small fortune for my rhino rack roof rack which was specific to my vehicle. There was no offroad rating for the rack at the time of purchase in 2015.. now there is and my roof rack is completely useless now off road due to the new offroad rating.. some high price doesnt necessarily equal high quality.

Been there and suffered from a very unprofessional job done to fixing a roof rack on my Patrol. Slipped all the way to the front landing on my bonnet (crossing a sand dune)! You are doing a great favour to those wishing to fix one on their 4x4. Good job buddy

One of the other issues with modular roof racks is that you need to adhere to the 'Righty tight, Lefty loosey' rule. When you strap something onto the left side of an eyelet, it will eventually loosen. So you need to plan ahead when strapping your gear on there.

Ronnie should have watched this.

Andrew's videos have changed everything for me. I've travelled all over the world but I'm planning on doing my first self drive this year.

As someone who works at front runner, we are actually redesigning the jerry can holders to be more beefy. And the straps to be less flimsy.

I totally agree with the mesh idea, I have a modular front runner, and I am always struggling to tie things down. Can't really put firewood on there as it falls through the gaps, and then damages the roof. Would love to swap mine out for a mesh system.

Views on this are going to blow up!

Well, after watching this video, mounting my roof rack is out of the question. I will seek professional help with the installation. Thank you, Mr. White, for sharing such valuable information.

Very informative. Thank you for breaking it down. I’m in the market of buying my first rack system and your unbiased video just made the selection process easier. Two thumbs up!!

This video couldn't have come at a better time... I'm currently evaluating different roofrack options to fit to my alu canopy... the FrontRunner has been my preferred choice, but seeing how fiddly the accessories are, makes me doubt the choice. Thanks for the info... loads of food for thought

Hi Andrew. Thank you so much for the great video! I've learned so much from you. You do the entire 4-wheeling community such a great service. The "chat" videos are good, but these educational/demonstration videos are my favorite. :-)

The best thing about having a Land Rover Defender and being able to use an angle grinder and a welder, I can make my rack myself. It really isn't hard to make a rack that is light, strong and very cheap if you have skills. Remembering I am not really wanting to carry much more than 250Lbs total on the roof. A roof top tent and a couple of Jerry cans and a bit of fire wood tops. I love my Defender.. lol

I have had problems with Frontrunner feet once but must add that the racks as well as all parts and accessories have lifetime warrantees so they immediately replaced it for free. The rack was loaded quite heavy must admit and was doing the Khutse to Central Kalahari trail which was quite bad at the time. Not sure what warrantees other manufacturers have and if they keep to it. Regarding the mesh it is very nice also so that pieces of wood not partly fall through and scratch your roof. Nice independant review and love the channel.

Good point about the flexing capability. I have a 110 Defender with an older Hannibal roof rack: the type which is completely welded and has feet as long as the rack itself. It probably is too stiff since I have recurring issues in the upper corner of both A posts. There's a bracket well hidden in the roof structure, which is kept in place by two rivets and a pz3 screw. Both the factory brackets and its rivets have broken, as if the roof is being pulled upwards from the window frame. It's a fiddle to repair and to replace the bracket with a DIY piece, but neglecting the issue can result in longitudinal cracks in the roof. Apparently it is better to cut the rack's feet.

This is why I love my basic aluminium fence-gate style flat rack from OCAM. Throw whatever I want wherever I want, and tie it down however I want. No fiddly nonsense.

I think Rock Solid Industries have just taken roof racks to the next level with their innovative RSI Smartrack. Designed and built in South Africa they are now also represented in Australia. Not sure about North America.

Couldnt agree more when it comes to Front Runner.

You can spend a fortune on roof racks, but don’t. I have found a Rhino steel mesh platform on top of 3 Rhino bars on my Prado works fine. You can tie down anything you want anywhere on the rack, and even simply make your own mounts as Andrew stated. I’ve crossed the Simpson Desert and traversed many rough tracks with this setup with no issues. It’s also a relatively low profile so doesn’t add too much height or wind resistance when empty. Don’t get sucked into these expensive over engineered solutions that lock you into over priced accessories. As Andrew points out, one of his best racks ever was the simple mesh rack on his Range Rover.

Get away from the feet, get a Gobi and attach to the frame. A gobi (though limited to certain models of vehicles) will allow you to disconnect the front of the rack and flip the rack to the rear to gain access to your accessories on the ground.

I have fitted a Frontrunner on my Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2DiD. The is not to bad but, On my trip to Namibia both the air deflectors came lose in about 160km badly corrugated road, had to fix it with cable straps. The Jerry cans at that time was still empty, had they been full I think they would have come off as well. The standard Frontrunner Double jerry can holder is not strong enough to hold +- 35KG on a vehicle shaking in all directions. The Frontrunner water tank was OK, but it all so moved around and regularly needed readjustment, well every day at the camp stop. I have 3 feet per side mounted on roof rails, Total weight I had on the roof was about 150KG. The mounting point was OK no problems. Wind resistance was a big problem,I could feel the wind holding the vehicle back and pushed my fuel consumption up from 12l/100km to 15l/100km. It was a difficult choice between trailer or roof rack. My first Namibia trip i did in a Izusu KB280Dt with all in the back, work hard at the camp site unpacking and repacking every thing every time from the back. Then roof rack on the Pajero is easier because I can pack from all sides. I don't like a trailer off road, but I do think, next time there will be a trailer. When empty the Frontrunner roof rack is very noisy in the car, gives a deep vibrating noise which can actually feel if have you hand on the sissy-bars (handles on the roof).

By far & away the biggest failure reason for any roof rack is poor fitting & zero attention given to checking/re-tightening the nuts & bolts during a trip. I've had the cheapest rack available in Oz on my vehicle for 2 years now, carrying all sorts of loads with zero issues as I replaced all the standard nuts & spring washers with nyloc nuts & shakeproof washers. Doesn't matter if you buy a Tracklander, ARB or Kings, the most important thing is making sure every nut & bolt is secure as even the slightest movement will lead to failure. (For the record, I will be getting a custom made aluminium Tracklander for my next build as that will be a global overland vehicle, rather than a weekend bush basher with occasional long trips)

Have a Brownchurch on mine with 5 feet each side (on an 88" Land Rover) and additional support legs to the bulkhead and the rear body structure. It's not massively heavy at 35kg, but it's not the lightest either. However, it is considerably over-engineered and because of the way they designed it, the guttering doesn't take all of the load, the vehicle structure does.

Brilliant, informative and unbiased information back by decades of experience

I run a Front Runner rack on my D40 Navara and love it. Currently I am running their 45L water tank and an awning from opposite lock.

I 100% agree with you on the mesh racks! They're by far the most practical racks for 4wding and touring. I've had the modular systems before and hated them, I rarely had a hook in right place! Last year I found a similar rack company to your Tracklander with the mesh and now I'm happy! These were also the lowest profile rack I could find for my vehicle. For those that are looking for quality mesh style racks like the Tracklander, also check out the Australian, Melbourne based company called Tradesmen roof racks. Also, I found that these smaller companies are far better to deal with than the larger companies like Rhino racks ect. 😉

Andrew what is your opinion regarding Frontrunner (and also Rhino Racks) that have the legs that run across the length of the body and bolt directly (in most cases) into existing mounts on the body rather than individual legs as attachments? I'm talking Disco 3/4 in case you don't understand what I'm talking about.

Just brought an universal roof rack at Car Mart Plus for $129.99 for 2020 RRS. Cross bar was $79.99! Took 3+ hours to install but it works so far.

I have a Hannibal roof rack on my 80 series, have had it on for many years now and I am still very pleased and impressed with it.

Very useful review. I agree on all points. I own a Rhino Rack Pioneer platform and it requires planning ahead of loading your gear. Otherwise, any significant modification requires you have to start over -- at least on a portion of the platform.

Totally agree regarding ease of strapping with mesh. It is the way to go! I have an XXL Rhino Basket on top of 2 load bars mounted to the standard rails on my NW Pajero. It is 2.1mx1.1m and although heavy at 27kg it leaves me 70kgs useful load for bulky (not heavy) items such as queen mattress, shovel, maxtrax, gazebo, etc...... Never come close to 50kgs as I load heavy items in the vehicle low down. Also, when empty for the odd overnighter or even when out on an extended trip it is sturdy and big enough to make a great viewing deck / sleeping platform for nights under stars. Simple, effective, fit for purpose and the whole lot with roof load bars cost me $300 for the pre-loved basket and new roof bars.

Impeccable analysis and brutally frank opinion based upon hard-won experience in the field. Also, probably one of the best ever pieces of advice about gear, brands, and retailers: he only retailers to trust are those who offer more than one brand of any piece of kit.

I got 2 rhino rack , flat platforms on my double cab Toyota Tundra , the longest one is on my reinforced fibreglass canopy and the second one is on the cabin, both flash with each other . Big head turner everywhere I go

I saw racks flown all over the freeway. The problem is NOT in the rack, but in the rail that it hooks on to. The original rail of the vehicle is not designed to hold such a heavy rack. So when the rail breaks the roof rack just flies off with it.

Tracklander are really good, the guys there are really helpful and know their stuff.

Thank you Andrew a very overlooked item just in the process of getting a new rack myself but still very unsure of what the optimal one for me only been thinking about for 2 yrs when I go to bed but this vid helped thankyou

Heya Andrew Been fitting my old Isuzu trooper for overland here in the states, i was about to do the front runner thing but this video really helped me understand the design differences between rack styles now im doing more research into the grated style racks as an option thanks for the education.

Interesting video... I have a Frontrunner Windcheater, that was fitted to the Nissan I bought a few years ago, and I often wondered if the feet were strong enough... I've never had a problem, but I don't load it with heavy gear, just a bit of fishing tackle, ladders and wood etc.. For a work vehicle, rather than expedition, it is very good...and way stronger than general commercial racks. A mesh under it like the one you fitted would have been a big plus. I generally use click straps to secure stuff to the roof rather than bungies. I do like the eye system though. I, as you say, have several on each slat. The main advantage of these is that the eyes and M8 bolts it uses, can be purchased in any hardware store, as they are not a proprietary system. It also means by just sliding in bolts of different lengths you can mount anything easily to the rack. Only problem is the bolt either oxidize (due to contact with ally rings) or rust, unless you can find stainless ones. I have now transferred the rack to my latest vehicles and it's still a very useful accessory. I've hung onto this rack as they are all hugely expensive in France, as most are imported from South Africa or Oz.

Absolutely fantastic video. I love this channel. My biggest concern with certain racks for my vehicle (Toyota 4Runner) is water intrusion into the roof itself. I just don’t think there’s a great way to completely eliminate water getting into the bolt holes. I wish there was a better answer for those trucks

You won't believe what I carried on top of my car roof rack. The car is 1992 toyota Sprinter with gutters and Thule cross bars. It was an adjustable metal bed frame which needed 2 adults to lift up. Many said the roof won't hold it but guess what it did... I guess it is about 90 Kg's and the roof rack got 4 feet... Amazing toyota quality back then!

Great video Andrew,I love the idea of the mesh for a base to increase your bungee attachment options. Very thorough video with a ton of knowledge based on experience! Thank You!,

The points he brings up are the main reasons I went with a Gobi rack instead of rail system racks. Especially helpful is the smaller mesh holes so I can still attach eyelets like in this video, just using a large washer as a back plate. Of course the only real disadvantage is the weight, being steel construction. Unfortunately this only really applies to the North American market...

i don't have data either but i'd say the biggest forces are in the TORSION, (the rack will not rock side to side so the torsion will come from that and be compounded by a bunch of factors), so eliminating the twisting forces by preventing as much as possible the ability for the rack to twist is my focus has been my focus because a lot of mounts for example, especially tower types on gutter mounts that are designed to clear more height than roof track or roof rail mounting situations, they just look what i would call flimsy relating to Torsion. i'm using a backbone solution that was designed for another so modified to help with that but will give it a bit of a swing around on it like a gymnast test and see how it goes when it's all tightened up. as a guy that does very big bolts up for a living haha, just make sure you tighten things level and with same principles as doing up wheel hub nuts when you fix it. don't want to "tighten a twist" into it

Thank you very much for this video! While I was in the market for a roof rack for my Jeep WK2 Grand Cherokee, I watched this twice. It pushed me away from the Front Runner rack and to a GOBI rack, which uses the steel mesh floor.

Great advice. I'm going to buy a front runnervfor my 1971 VW T2. Not quite overlanding, but for camp accessories and a RTT. Thanks!👍

very good points made there. weight weight weight. people just forget about that and put heavy large roof racks on suv's without thinking.

Great video, I have been looking at roof racks for my RAM-AEV build and Rhino Rack's Pioneer Platform is my 1st choice followed by Expedition One.

10 years ago I fitted African Out back rack, never had any issues. I was advised against Frontrunner.

In Rhino Racks defense, LOL, they do make a perimeter railing accessory - you can make it go all the way around or just the front or back/corners. That makes it a lot easier to bungee stuff - BUT it is an accessory item so the money expenditure can "rack" up quickly :D

The newer second generation Pioneer Platform from Rhino has addressed the issue of channels underneath and atop the front and rear edges. Unfortunately, it still lacks a completely open slot along the outside rail due to the crossbar supports interfering. Placing tie-down eyelets isn't nearly the hassle this video has made it out to be, nevertheless, he brings up some good points for sake of comparison.

My BJ60 came with a roof "rack". A square frame bolted to the roof with longitudinal "runners" attached to the roof corrugations. I used it to haul a mattress once.

As rookie who just got my 1st 4x4, looking for a r rack. Thanks for the great video

Excellent video! I’ve got a Rhino-Rack Pioneer platform on my expedition trailer and mostly like it. Your point about the eyelets is well taken. Unfortunately here in the States, most of our racks look like milk crates and howl like banshees on the highway.

Great video! I would like to draw attention to one point. Many of us have daily cars and use the roof racks in a daily basis, for example with bikes. And sometime in your life you could hit something above (a shopping garage, a bridge, etc) with your bike. Good aluminium bike carriers, are made to absorb the impact leaving your car without damage or small damage.

I tell customer too put one more leg on the defender each side and place them over the load supports (abc middle of the glass and d post) plus I flip the rack over and put two bits of angle steel under the rack and drill and bolt too every slat which makes it so much stronger

I like your selection. Nice and simple. Don't need special accessories to attach things, just a strap or some rope

Something extremely important that I don’t think you mentioned, something that I only learned yesterday is ‘Load rating’ & ‘Offroad load rating’. Be sure to check the offroad rating as it’s significantly less than the load rating which is what 99% of people go by.

Totally agree, being able to ratchet, bungie strap anything is so important!

Might like to do an update given the current discussions about rack weight limits not being advertised by any of the manufacturers but instead buried in the fine print (if at all)!

Main problem is people dont understand the weight restrictions and how the rack is mounted onto the vehicle....static weight, dynamic weight and offroad weight are different. They overload the rack and make it dangerous, the vehicle has a roof rating and then you have to subtract the weight of the rack and the items you intend to mount, roof tents, spare wheels, jerry can etc are heavy and you can quickly overload the vehicle. Some roof mounts are only riveted into thin roofing metal and are unsuitable, you need to check the manufacturers website and check all the weights, specs etc.

more great info thanks Andrew. the nuts on the first rack you showed are "channel nuts" they are unistrut or ezy-strut and are common and cheap. they fit lots of things. I have an ironman steel rack, good and solid but noisy. the mesh makes tying stuff on very easy.

We must have the best of both worlds, Tracklander base with Rhino Rack bars to increase width for loading the dinghy.

Phase 2 looks like it's coming along nicely. I really like the rear bumper/tire carrier.

Fantastic tutorial! I prefer the steel mesh on the aluminum frame myself. Have you considered the aircraft cargo tie-down rails? They're very low profile and incredibly secure.

Best way I think about modular racks are if you're great at tetris, then you'll be good at packing said rack!

Been looking at the new aluminum ARB flat mesh rack because of your explanation. I like the idea of being able to hook to anyplace on the rack. The new module aluminum rack are nice and sleek but I like how you explained you have to get connectors for everything.

I'm building mesh carriers for T5 back door carriers - people love it's universal usability. BUT the single mesh wires can be overloaded quite soon and a sensitive load like a bag can be perforated if sth. hard inside squeezes the cloth. Unfortunately, in Europe I don't know manufacturers for aluminium (?) mesh like you show in the video, this is looking very good - BUT aluminium is sensitive to a vibrating load and breaks appr. 10 times earlier than steel. This is also why I would prefer to combine aluminium racks with steel feet (and you can weld them much easier anywhere). One important point is that many roof gutters or grooves are not stright but bended - so the feet NEED to compensate that. And: always mount anything without a preload due to bending, pressing down or like. A preload together with vibrations is lethal to anything. One perfect solution I miss here are airline fixing rails. They are standard in Europe (even UK!) and are getting better known in the US the last years. They allow to attach eyes anywhere in a 25mm pattern with many different "fittings" and addionally with a special M8 stainless steel nut I designed you can fix anything. There are roof racks on the european market with this rail system, and I think in terms of flexibility together with strength nothing can top them. The mesh solution comes close to it and has it's own advantages like: no parts can slip through and damage your roof or get lost. This perfect for firewood. You can walk on them without any risk of breaking your ankles. My personal design for a roof rack was a complete flat aluminium plate with this railsystem pattern integrated - this works also perfectly as a tropic roof against sun heat (I'm building it no longer). If one wants to see examples of that you might look for relleumdesign , I hope this is ok? Andrew, I really like your videos very much - I learn something each time and I'm making you known here any time I can. CU on the Abenteuer&Allrad?

One thing about Front Runner, I think they have become too modular for ease of shipping. I had a terrible time trying to get the platform flat because of this and sent the rack back. I was going to get Eezi Awn but with 5 legs for a LC200 that would have been 6 nuts and bolts per leg times 5 per side, or in other words 60 nuts and bolts....um no thanks. I settled on a Rhino Rack Pioneer platform with the backbone mount and I’m very happy.

Use Bosch Rexroth profiles, and make your own. Way more versatile, and you can fit new clamps, hooks and what-not in every slot without removing anything.

I’ve got a Rhino Platform rack on my 200 ... I’ve never used eyes . I’ve just used ratchet straps for years . .just loop the strap around it self on any part of the rack .

By far, the best roof racks/mounting systems are on standard road panel vans. I had a Peugeot Partner, little French van. They have recessed nuts already in the roof, through to the structure of the van, to bolt you rack straight too. no drilling. no paint scratching. unbelievably strong. It's the same system on many vans now. The advert for the rack I bought, was another van sat on top of the rack of a van. I had at least 600kg of construction timber on mine many times. It doesn't even flex. I find it criminal how pathetic some of these SUV and 4x4 roof systems are. I'm not talking about the racks. I'm talking about the vehicle itself. Quick example, everyone saying how heavy duty the new defender is because it can take 300kg on its roof. Guys it's an 80K 4x4. I could take double that on a 10K 2wd van. Please up your game SUV and pick up manufactures. The simple panel van has had you beat for years. Sorry

Andrew I love your KZfaq posts fantastic you are the David Attenborough of the four-wheel drive world and you look a little bit like him I must say.

The people who drove from the tip of South America to Alaska welded together their racks in someone’s backyard

Well that just saved me a fortune!!

This was extremely helpful, exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Agree on importance of build quality but the biggest mistake is to put too much weight on the roof. I saw too many truck with broken roof racks as they put an insane amount of stuff on the roof. Any truck with any quality roof rack will cause trouble.

In hindsight you picked the wrong rack for your demo. Rhino’s off-road rating has been finally discovered buried in fine print and it’s none too flattering for a rack you have just spent a fortune on. I think that it can safely carry my gas bottle but I will have to phone a friend to decipher their incongruous calculations that need to be made.

great information from a guy with experience

One reason why one should be able to understand and be able to fabricate ones own accessories. Manufacturers have limits in what they can do and sell for a profit. A few times in my life I have seen a weakness, understood the weakness and fabricated something better. But for sure, any rack must have the ability for one to use straps. No, not bungee cords, useless, but actually ratcheting straps. Better yet, straps that have clips on the hook ends to prevent them from disconnecting.

Thanks for making this video. I was skeptical it would have any real value, but I think I actually learned quite a lot.

once you have an idea about weight capacities like my man explained - just get the best mounting secenario you are able/canafford and then the best rack with same and work out how you can fit them together. saved me a fortune, (bought brand new unused from second hand- 1k vs 4k and still got the top brand gear. no reason why i could justify spending as much as the premium brands charge in shop. and the fixings i used to join rack to mounts is proper stainless hardware from my job

Ironic timing, great Video Interesting you didn't including awning mounts, as that seems like the only reason most people have a rack these days. I find the ways and /or options for mounting awnings fairly disappointing.

Interesting video, I do like the idea of the mesh rack where items can be strapped down, poor mans solution is to find a old mesh alloy screen door and bolt it down to a set of good quality roof racks.

I would have liked you to mention the load ratings of vehicle roofs too. Some may carry heavier weights than others & many people overload their racks to exceed the carrying capacity of the roof itself. Otherwise, a very good article, thanks.

I'm pretty happy with my Garvin rack. Probably not sold outside of the U.S., though.

I've been doing some armchair research of roof systems for the D40 Frontier/Navara, and I'm surprised by a couple of things. First, that no one has made a roof-ditch/gutter mounting track system even though the truck has deep ditches/gutters. There's a system that bolts to the outside corners of the cab, and for all I know this was necessary due to roof strength issues, but it doesn't look particularly nice when the rack or rails and the feet are removed, which for me would be the normal state of things. Second, how incredibly tall these products sit above the height of the roof. When I was a kid we had an '86 Isuzu Trooper (also called the Holden Jackaroo among other names) and that truck had factory raised rails, but the crossbars didn't sit that high above the sheet metal roof. Dad used to put stuff up on top directly on the metal roof, using the bars and rails essentially as a railing to keep that stuff in place. Granted, it was stuff that was usually packed soft-sided so it didn't deeply gouge paint, but it did the job well enough. If I wanted to fit a rack, I'd want it as low as possible. I admit to being half-tempted to just buy some junkyard Nissan utilitrack rails pulled from a Frontier or Titan and seeing if I could make those conform to the shape of the roof in places where they'd be durable enough, and since they're the same dimensions as strut channel I could pretty easily make whatever I'd want to attach.

13:22 I have a toyota ipsum, i bought the correct feet for my whispbar, clips like the ones at 13:22 and even after tightening it up correctly you could pops them off with your pinky finger...ended up buying feet that you rivet directly to the roof, much better system.

ARB do mesh racks too, just sayin :) I bought and ARB delux 3/4 length rack with mesh floor, I love it. I was turned off the modular racks purely for the reason u say, unlike a mesh floor you can't just tie down anything anywhere. Nice video :)

I’m keeping watching this rapidly, great job 👍🏼

Those nuts are common place. They arn’t all that special. They are called ‘channel nuts’ and are commonly used in cabinet making and cable tray assemblies. You can purchase 50 of them with some m8 eyelets that bolt into them from many online hardware suppliers. You’ll also save a fortune considering the cost your typical 4X4 store will try to charge you for a pack of 2 or 4 of them....

Awesome informative video. I agree with everything you have said! I too have decide to go down the track lander route and stepping away from my front runner rack. Also the pioneer platform systems tent to sqeeck over time as the bolts become looses over coragations.

cant afford to patreon but i watch the darn commercials all the way thru! lol thx for all the excellent advice.

For my use, roof bars were more appropriate than a rack and I ended up choosing Front Runner. Not a heavy load and not accessed frequently. What is perhaps of interest is the legs. I have a Defender, and the standard legs that Front Runner spec for it are too long. They do some shorter legs (size 5 instead of size 7) which get the rack/bars a lot closer to the roof. With those legs, it fits the Defender roof about as perfectly as you could ever hope for. All I have mounted to it is my awning, and I have that on the side of them rather than on top as it should be. The net result is that my Defender just fits under a 2.1m barrier. Before my roof bars, I'd inherited from the previous owner a Land Rover branded rack. Thankfully some idiot bought it off me, it was the biggest heap of junk I've ever seen.

Love your watch! I have the explorer, I beat the hell out of it and it just keeps on ticking!

IMO modular racks are a rip off. The manufacturers lock the customer into a high priced proprietary system and their (expensive) accessories may not even be that good. Also you don't have complete freedom where to secure the load because the tie down points are on the cross members. My solution? I have a strong, traditional rack (Brownchurch) and have decked it with GRP grating (the same stuff as waffle boards but thinner and lighter). It's light, totally corrosion resistant and you can tie down anywhere. Oh yes, the rack and grating is a fraction the price of one of the fancy modular racks.

Best rack I have bought - el cheapo allo rack on my Patrol from 4x4superstore. Telegraph track and Simpson with a ton of everything on it. Worst rack on my present Triton is a Rhino tradie. Noisy and can only legally carry about 40 kgs.