8b+ Free Solo

  Рет қаралды 217,294

Dave MacLeod

Dave MacLeod

4 жыл бұрын

An extract from the movie Echo Wall www.davemacleod.com/shop/echo... from 2008 where I free solo Darwin Dixit (8b+ but at the time graded 8c) as a bit of a training exercise to get my head around doing 8c on trad on my project, Echo Wall on Ben Nevis.
The climb was filmed by Claire MacLeod. It was the first time she'd ever filmed any climbing!

Пікірлер: 201
@jonathanfaller1894
@jonathanfaller1894 4 жыл бұрын
Big thanks for not dying!
@Alistair
@Alistair 4 жыл бұрын
lol your name, interesting that you'd be into climbing
@joelmoktar
@joelmoktar 4 жыл бұрын
Still amazing footage years later. I'm amazed you convinced your wife to film this!
@olliebarker9979
@olliebarker9979 3 ай бұрын
She never got the phone call to belay
@derailedtrain2517
@derailedtrain2517 4 жыл бұрын
wow, not even a scream after he did this amazing climb, what a psycho
@dannygrout92
@dannygrout92 4 жыл бұрын
Please please please make an analysis video on this. Your thoughts, at the time and now, commentary on moves, your hair, anything please please please!! At the time and still one of the most compelling and impressive bits of climbing footage I've ever seen
@instinctroller
@instinctroller 8 ай бұрын
kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iraeg5mW3dnMiI0.htmlsi=yu9fAInQjX17CD_b Check this one out - Dave comments on the solo pretty thoroughly.
@leoingson
@leoingson 4 жыл бұрын
I like how you stayed in control after the steep part and just stood there during the rush.
@matthew3103
@matthew3103 4 жыл бұрын
Holy crap! That was so solid! I am so deeply impressed with your composure and execution. And to finish it off the most low key post send reaction for what was an absolutely monumental achievement. Congratulations and well done!
@climbermacleod
@climbermacleod 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks. I have a couple of thoughts in response to that. First, while everyone is different, I feel that free soloing is a place for a cool head, so its kind of hard to go from a deep state of calm to super excited just because you topped out. Second, this ascent was just a small part of training for a much much harder and more dangerous route (Echo Wall). So this was rather weighing on my mind at the time. It would have been premature to be celebrating with the dangerous lead still ahead.
@johnnyd.j.6068
@johnnyd.j.6068 Жыл бұрын
you only solo this hard if you expect to send it, so why would you be excited when you do send it? same thing with Honnold's "delighted" reaction after topping out El Cap
@lewisrobinson6754
@lewisrobinson6754 4 жыл бұрын
Only halfway through the video and already digging the hair cut! Quality video so far as always!
@shata2856
@shata2856 4 жыл бұрын
makin it look so effortless...stunning, Dave!
@MrThidious
@MrThidious 4 жыл бұрын
I love to watch you climb! You're such an amazing and inspiring climber Dave. Thank you for sharing...
@stefan.h.6888
@stefan.h.6888 4 жыл бұрын
Long time not seen Echowall. One of the most impressive climbing movie for me of all time. Thanks for the footage. And huge congrats to your incredible mindset
@leon6777
@leon6777 Жыл бұрын
Even three years later this is so impressive. The boldness of your climbing will always astonish me.
@JeffDrumm
@JeffDrumm 4 жыл бұрын
Wow. Great work. Has to be one of the hardest true free solos on record!
@samuelcrettenand8376
@samuelcrettenand8376 4 жыл бұрын
total gestural and especially mental control! Bravo Dave and thank you for this superb lesson 🙏
@Cragcloud
@Cragcloud 4 жыл бұрын
Impressive, Dave! Just subbed to your channel. That pocket sequence at 3:12 looks stunning! All the best, a Danish fan!
@raiemie7365
@raiemie7365 3 жыл бұрын
you looked calm, focused, relaxed and in flow, it seems to me that your mental game couldnt have been better Dave, insanely impressive
@SimplyRockZone
@SimplyRockZone 4 жыл бұрын
Absolutely inspiring Dave
@lucadondoni843
@lucadondoni843 4 жыл бұрын
wow !!! Fantastic!!! Courage and beauty, and the smile at the end says it all about the meaning of this sport. Greetings from Italy 😎
@brass086
@brass086 4 жыл бұрын
absolutely amazing. goes to show each time you put up a new route... there's months of training, thousands of hours.... the final send is just the tip of the iceberg. love the videos, looking forward to the cold weather, decent winter and if so, seeing what you and Helen get up to. looking forward to getting up to fort William soon. keep the videos coming please I love them. Matt 🙂
@torgrimmy
@torgrimmy 4 жыл бұрын
What you do on the mental aspect here is of the chart! Respect, and awsome to watch. Play safe!👍💪💪💪
@RoryM07
@RoryM07 4 жыл бұрын
Amazing, Dave. Great one to pull from the archives!
@BananaSG553
@BananaSG553 4 жыл бұрын
I think i had a bigger smile than you did after you topped the route. You smashed it!
@inigotaylor9401
@inigotaylor9401 25 күн бұрын
What an example of humility, no screaming or celebrating, just another step on the way to leading echo wall. Brilliant stuff
@garrisongoth6421
@garrisongoth6421 4 жыл бұрын
Incredible Dave!
@spencershields9186
@spencershields9186 3 жыл бұрын
Amazing to watch someone climb something so hard so perfectly.
@Lucatheclimber
@Lucatheclimber 4 жыл бұрын
really cool. inspiring to see such a hard free solo
@stage3300
@stage3300 Жыл бұрын
So impressive, I don't know how you can keep such solid composure when there's so little margin for error. Amazing focus and skill!
@lawleight626
@lawleight626 4 жыл бұрын
That middle finger hold !!! Jesus i need to go do some pull ups
@bongosock
@bongosock 4 жыл бұрын
great accomplishment, dude! gratz
@DrewWithington
@DrewWithington 4 жыл бұрын
You seem to be really good at evaluating calculated risk. Really cool skill to have! When I was an active climber late teens/early 20s was really bad at this and things went wrong ....
@minimonkeyman58
@minimonkeyman58 4 жыл бұрын
Super cool start
@martinsorensson7141
@martinsorensson7141 4 жыл бұрын
Amazing! Balls of steel!!
@_tgreg1
@_tgreg1 3 ай бұрын
Amazing. You knew you could, and you did
@vizp90
@vizp90 4 жыл бұрын
Smashed it, you made it look easy mate
@stewart6329
@stewart6329 4 жыл бұрын
Impressive stuff, love the precision of movement. echo wall is a great film
@denislejeune9218
@denislejeune9218 4 жыл бұрын
I thought it was 'let down' (by today's standards anyway) by the lack of various angles. No drones back then, no 5 or 6 cameras, which for me make Echo Wall age pretty quickly. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
@stewart6329
@stewart6329 4 жыл бұрын
@@denislejeune9218 still a thoroughly impressive climb. To date not repeated and filmed by misses macleod who must have a massive amount of believe and strength to film her husband undertaking multiple climbs with pretty severe consequences for any mistakes. Truly epic stuff
@denislejeune9218
@denislejeune9218 4 жыл бұрын
@@stewart6329 We are in agreement.
@tomadevil1
@tomadevil1 3 жыл бұрын
I love the music!
@keithchegwinsspunkybackpac2600
@keithchegwinsspunkybackpac2600 4 жыл бұрын
Amazing.
@falconbalcon632
@falconbalcon632 3 ай бұрын
ONE OF THE GREATEST OF ALL TIME
@herbert5727
@herbert5727 9 ай бұрын
Probably one of the most gangster thing any climber had tried and crushed!
@frankheiser2775
@frankheiser2775 4 жыл бұрын
to everyone their own, the mental en physical performance is fantastic, I prefer your roped climbing or bouldering personally.
@jackmoore7881
@jackmoore7881 8 ай бұрын
That was some sexy climbing Dave
@OffTheHookVideos
@OffTheHookVideos 4 жыл бұрын
Probably the highest grade solos ever very cool
@pingyu035
@pingyu035 2 ай бұрын
You fuckin mad man doing all these dynamic moves free solo, damn
@lee-johnson
@lee-johnson 4 жыл бұрын
It was the chalk on the forearm that did it! Nice climb
@amauryg.
@amauryg. 4 жыл бұрын
2:56
@briandickey4276
@briandickey4276 4 жыл бұрын
So is the chalk of the foerarm so you can transfer it to you hands and reach into a chalk bag?
@blackhawk0606
@blackhawk0606 4 жыл бұрын
The music fits so well! Any idea of the name?
@Lmorer
@Lmorer 4 жыл бұрын
Awesome!
@prokopkudlik6738
@prokopkudlik6738 3 жыл бұрын
Still the best video on youtube...
@davegc3355
@davegc3355 3 жыл бұрын
what's the soundtrack's name? it always comes to mind when I'm trying a new route or project haha
@MakinMovies7
@MakinMovies7 4 жыл бұрын
Top notch.
@mayeramschelrothschild3126
@mayeramschelrothschild3126 3 жыл бұрын
3:05-3:10 my god you are an animal. Single finger hold to pull yourself up into a two finger hold, pure strength and endurance.
@MrTomadevil
@MrTomadevil 3 жыл бұрын
Sick music!
@WontTrout
@WontTrout 4 жыл бұрын
Damn brother, nice send. Seems to climb like just a super long mega highball boulder
@vincentkrause7097
@vincentkrause7097 4 жыл бұрын
But no pads so free solo
@Tomcoma2832
@Tomcoma2832 4 жыл бұрын
Cool just bought the film !
@monickerofgoodness4898
@monickerofgoodness4898 4 жыл бұрын
The intoduction sounded like famous last words. Glad they wheren’t!
@eltankos
@eltankos 4 жыл бұрын
"A bit of a training exercise" Low key as usual
@Christian-ud9rn
@Christian-ud9rn 4 жыл бұрын
Impressive!!!
@Friloppp
@Friloppp 4 жыл бұрын
Grande bicho! M👏👏👏💪💪💪. Esto es en margalef, verdad?
@filipvabrousek6900
@filipvabrousek6900 4 жыл бұрын
Breathtaking! The hardest free solo in the history?
@RockClimberAlex
@RockClimberAlex 3 жыл бұрын
Beastly stuff. Question though, if you don't have top foot access how the hell do you get down from a free solo like this? This one seemed to have a way off without downclimbing. Would you get a rope there first, rap down, then free solo, then rap down again? Just wondering, cause if that happens, you can either do a self-belay or a soloist to get a rope up, if no one else is with you, which seems a bit odd. But then again, so is soloing.
@jeremythornton6930
@jeremythornton6930 4 жыл бұрын
A long time ago and still an inspiring climb. I wonder if you'd still consider something like free soloing a necessary way to prepare for a difficult climb? Some free soloing makes sense to me, but for that specific climb the risk of a relatively minor tendon injury mid-climb leading to a fairly brutal fall seems like it would introduce a pretty significant number of micromorts. In any case, I'm sure it focussed the mind...
@jeremythornton6930
@jeremythornton6930 4 жыл бұрын
As might be expected from Dave, not a bad response... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rLCcjKSmlcfLe3k.html
@andrews1525
@andrews1525 2 жыл бұрын
I have to come back to watch the video again every once and a while just to make sure its real....... crazy
@beazleteats4031
@beazleteats4031 3 жыл бұрын
fucking awesome is all I can add.
@hejsans1948
@hejsans1948 4 жыл бұрын
Badass!
@vizp90
@vizp90 4 жыл бұрын
What's the track in the background?
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 4 жыл бұрын
I was wondering why the chalk on the forearm, then 2:57
@theunaphotobomber
@theunaphotobomber 4 жыл бұрын
Sweaty arms? I assume that if you have really sweaty arms that sweat can run to your hands anytime you drop your arms down. Wouldn't want that ruining his grip, especially given the stakes. But that's my best guess.
@loujetlag
@loujetlag 4 жыл бұрын
Luke Skinner I think he didn’t want to have to reach behind himself at that point to chalk up...my guess...
@phutton88
@phutton88 4 жыл бұрын
I've tested a theory that any sweat generated on your hands will get soaked up by the chalk on your wrists and arms.
@Setarkos91
@Setarkos91 4 жыл бұрын
I'm pretty sure he is just controlling the rotation of his body there and using his other arm as an intermediate hold to more precisely place the left hand. So to avoid getting sweat on his left hand he chalked up his right forearm before.
@usprodrigo
@usprodrigo 4 жыл бұрын
It's easy to solo when you're from the MacLeod Clan and cannot die anyway because you're a Highlander. 😅
@aries_9130
@aries_9130 4 жыл бұрын
Crazy.
@stuartjohnson5173
@stuartjohnson5173 4 жыл бұрын
Nice work! Which was easier? The redpoint or the solo?
@climbermacleod
@climbermacleod 4 жыл бұрын
The solo was probably a bit easier. It is amazing how much a few clips break your rhythm!
@StickyPaw
@StickyPaw 4 жыл бұрын
🔥!
@kyan3265
@kyan3265 4 жыл бұрын
I'm still wondering the philosophy and mental state behind free soloing. It's already terrifying 15 feet off the ground with a crash pad beneath
@z1lv1n4s
@z1lv1n4s 4 жыл бұрын
beast
@DwightBretonvanGroll
@DwightBretonvanGroll 4 жыл бұрын
Is a single pitch still called freesolo or does it become a highball if you can topout? Mad skills anyways. Wouldn't be able to do it myself.
@6darkness6eternal6
@6darkness6eternal6 4 жыл бұрын
It would be a highball if he'd padded it out
@neild7971
@neild7971 4 жыл бұрын
I don't consider topping out as a defining trait of a highball. on a route like this I would consider wether a fall from the hardest moves would likely cause injury. I think this is in the blurry line between the two and without pads is a bold effort :)
@darrenmarney8577
@darrenmarney8577 4 жыл бұрын
Complete inspiration in regards of situational awareness Dave 👌 classic 🙂 I don't climb anywhere close to the 8's 😃 the grades of climbing are so amusing 🤔 sending a 22 face & failing a 17 crack to climbing smear slabs at 20 with no potential holds 🤣 all following the V6 boulder that is just punishment for commitment 🤬
@christiangasior4244
@christiangasior4244 4 жыл бұрын
This def makes me nervous since soloing crack climbs is a little more reliable. But I know this dude had sent this many times before. Still...
@darrenmarney8577
@darrenmarney8577 4 жыл бұрын
I totally agree with you Christian 🤔 some days feel all go & other moments are questions of concern about the situation 🤬 the best decisions are about walking away with the wrong approach and knowing why 😎 emotional investment & classic rock 🙂 Have fun climbing Christian 👌👍💪
@georgelagas4624
@georgelagas4624 4 жыл бұрын
That's RAD!
@L3if
@L3if 4 жыл бұрын
Strong
@KD_cycling
@KD_cycling 4 жыл бұрын
This has to be right up there with the hardest ever single pitch solos of all time?
@averissimo
@averissimo 4 жыл бұрын
@Jimmy Alain Robert would be very close competition with an 8b. if i remember it correctly he also did an 8a+ in Bijoux that he then downclimbed, all free solo
@crescentfuze
@crescentfuze 4 жыл бұрын
Was at the time and I reckon still probably the hardest.
@michalmakusa6923
@michalmakusa6923 4 жыл бұрын
@@crescentfuze Kevin Jorgeson - The Fly: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g8ykZs6Qy5baf4E.html
@Llmmrr123
@Llmmrr123 4 жыл бұрын
Michal Makuša not a free solo. 6-7m tall and with a crashpad, it’s just a tall boulder problem
@coleslaw3422
@coleslaw3422 4 жыл бұрын
@@michalmakusa6923 that's just a high ball
@nanostiwi3783
@nanostiwi3783 4 жыл бұрын
TITANNN!
@kingclimbing801
@kingclimbing801 3 жыл бұрын
Bad ass!
@nathandarval1
@nathandarval1 3 жыл бұрын
What a fucking beast
@brookesullivan6390
@brookesullivan6390 3 жыл бұрын
What song is that?
@dugongpoo
@dugongpoo 4 жыл бұрын
Now that's what you call bouldering. Amazing.
@kicksandkilos6648
@kicksandkilos6648 Ай бұрын
Built Different
@MindRiderFPV
@MindRiderFPV 3 жыл бұрын
New mind. From the first lock at 100%.
@Chef8898
@Chef8898 Жыл бұрын
3:08 i never was so stoked someone showing me the finger
@nikikovacs1923
@nikikovacs1923 3 жыл бұрын
Holy. Mother.
@mrmoorash
@mrmoorash 4 жыл бұрын
isn't it a little beit too dangerous and I'd say insane to solo routes close to your limit?
@reganmarin16
@reganmarin16 4 жыл бұрын
Song?
@qorazx
@qorazx 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks youtube for again making my hands sweet
@itostone
@itostone 3 жыл бұрын
Es mejor quitar las cintas exprés de la ruta que se va hacer el solo , no quedan bien estando , mata la magia de ver la ruta limpia.
@matthewontherocks
@matthewontherocks 4 жыл бұрын
If this was a highball boulder problem what grade would you reckon lol
@timignatov7394
@timignatov7394 4 жыл бұрын
8C so V15. Then again it says 8B+ so V14. Epic either way
@neild7971
@neild7971 4 жыл бұрын
I would think v10 or maybe v11 for French 8b+/8c crux?
@WspinaczkowyBlog
@WspinaczkowyBlog 4 жыл бұрын
Looks like for Dave this route is a highball boulder problem :D
@WayUpFilms
@WayUpFilms 4 жыл бұрын
...without any mats. No biggie.
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 4 жыл бұрын
I would think that this is within your onsight level at the time?
@climbermacleod
@climbermacleod 4 жыл бұрын
No. I was onsighting 8a+. But then I wasn't doing much onsighting really (I've never had good endurance). Perhaps if I were doing a lot I could have been onsighting into 8b at a push.
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 4 жыл бұрын
@@climbermacleod Makes sense. I think that a little-discussed climbing dichotomy is "project" climbers v. "onsight" climbers. Of course someone like Ondra can do both at the highest level, but historically you have say a Megos v. Gullich (and maybe Yuji v. Huber?) the former almost never spending more than a day on a climb v. someone spending years just to work out a crux. I tend towards the latter, and it cuts in to my urge to travel more or hard onsighting. Good work on using this particular experience to build on.
@iluecha
@iluecha 4 жыл бұрын
why is there some kind of a tiny disruption at 3:48 / 3:49? :-)
@Fasmistic
@Fasmistic 3 жыл бұрын
Because he totally fell off and jumped back on at that point :-)
@iluecha
@iluecha 3 жыл бұрын
Fasmistic good, I was not sure first, but now it’s two of us... :-)
@robertobreve8623
@robertobreve8623 9 ай бұрын
my hands are cold and sweating
@chj5542
@chj5542 4 жыл бұрын
Something something doesn't count because no sit start
@nfactorial4074
@nfactorial4074 4 жыл бұрын
Im sweating
@nishintachannel3225
@nishintachannel3225 4 жыл бұрын
wow keren banget. kok bisa kuat banget gitu ya tangan nya
@dundeedolphin
@dundeedolphin 4 жыл бұрын
I could probably close my eyes for a bit while riding my motorbike but WHY WOULD I? This is both great and disturbed.
@mckay7355
@mckay7355 4 жыл бұрын
Ga Wa mental fortitude
@stephenevans2518
@stephenevans2518 4 жыл бұрын
Mind training before doing super hard and bold trad...
@climbermacleod
@climbermacleod 4 жыл бұрын
Indeed, why would you ride a motorbike with your eyes shut? Mind you the number of fatal motorbike accidents in the Scottish highlands sometimes make me wonder if they are doing just that!
@dundeedolphin
@dundeedolphin 4 жыл бұрын
@@climbermacleod You are obviously a careful and considered person in many respects. Do you feel any urge, or observe it, to increase the danger level. Or do you feel that, as the difficulty gets greater through improvement, the risk itself stays the same (or reduces)?
@mariobotti1952
@mariobotti1952 4 жыл бұрын
8B+???
@apostatepaul
@apostatepaul 4 жыл бұрын
😮😮😮😮😮
@k3kkus0
@k3kkus0 4 жыл бұрын
Impressive. What are your thoughts on free solo-ing El Cap?
@christiangasior4244
@christiangasior4244 4 жыл бұрын
I think that isn’t going to be repeated for a long time. Alex Honnold skilled like 2 or 3 generations of free solo climbing and is in a league of his own. Nobody has even considered free soloing half dome again and he did that in what, 2012-2013? This dude is probably a better boulderer although I haven’t seen honnold boulder much. This climb is very impressive in its own different way. Honnold is great and perfect in his safety zone of mostly crack climbing. I’m not sure Alex would attempt this. Maybe if he had mastered it.
@christiangasior4244
@christiangasior4244 4 жыл бұрын
Skipped* 2-3 generation I mean
@ToppaliniTube
@ToppaliniTube 4 жыл бұрын
very ballsy stuff here especially because you wouldn't die most likely from the fall, but you'd never climb again to say the least. could have done it as a very highball boulder with lots of crash pads, but then it wouldn't be a true free solo. record hardest free solo i do believe!
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