WOW! I'm blown away by the response to this video. Thanks to everyone who has watched and commented. Whether you agree or disagree with me, I appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and for caring enough to share your thoughts. There is no way I can respond to all these comments, so please take this as my thank you to you!

From my understanding, Seafoam is meant to be added 100-300 miles BEFORE an oil change. It is meant to help break down deposits so they are removed when changing your oil. It is not meant to be added with fresh new oil as an additive.

I love that-"I used brand X additive and picked up 5 mpg." Well I used brand X additive and I lost 5 main bearings." LOL. I wasn't expecting that. Hilarious.

Man that's awesome. I've told people for a long time now not to add stuff to the oil, and now I have proof. Thanks.

Was just recommended one of your videos and wow😮. I love this type of content that isn't speculation but rather let's the hard factual science speak for itself. There is no need for bias as ultimately we all want products that deliver what we pay for. I'm also glad that you talked about the value of fuel additives in order to balance the content and show that it's not all a sham.

"As the oil life is shortened, the deposits will increase." That's specifically why I've never felt comfortable with 10K(+) mile oil changes, even with the best oil.

I was always under the impression that Seafoam wasn't an additive, but a solvent/cleaner that you were supposed run only for a very short time just prior to an oil-change...

I have 40 years in oil sample issues with Cat. As a Tech a Manager and a machine shop owner we will agree on use the correct oil and change it on time the best one thing anyone can do. One extended oil change will cost you more than any oil change possibly causing catastrophic failure. The # 1 issue I find is electrolosis from running nasty coolant or water. 9 out of 10 engines that must be taken out of service is generally from holes in liners. Gas engines you have an advantage on me. Mixing the additives with an aeration type mixer at room temperature may not be super accurate as oil pumps are gear driven for that reason not as much air. Good show.

I really appreciate the work you do to make this information accessible to the laymen.

As a State government worker we were required to add a quart of Hyperlube, company was homebased here, at each oil change in our State issued vehicles. After a few years and a series of unexplained engine failures, Ford tested, found the additive and determined overtime it restricted oil passages, which caused bearing failure. No more additive or lose your warranty. Now we just use engine oil.

Oil has definitely changed a lot over the years. I remember back in the mid 80's when you pulled the valve covers off an engine with over 80,000 miles you had to use a spoon to scoop all the hardened crud out of the rockers. Now, I've worked on engines with way over 100,000 miles on them and they still look clean. Shows the big improvement in the packages in the oil.

Ive been using Liqui Moly MOs2 for quite some time and ive felt both my engines run much smoother and start much quieter. It's nice to see it just adds Molybdenum and it creates no conflict with the other additives that the oil already has.

I am so grateful for dedicating your time to educate the public at large

The best oil additive is fresh oil, meaning frequent oil changes. Some people, for various reasons just cannot bring themselves to do that. Also, the use of oil additives has a strong psychological component.

Seafoam singlehandedly unclogged the injectors on my diesel dump truck. WELL worth the money.

Man I wish you could make like 300% more videos somehow of the same quality. So many topics I'd love your approach on in relation to oil, engine health, other vehicle fluids.This testing is the most detailed & informative I have seen

Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to make this. I have always used "just plain oil" of the same brand throughout the life of an engine. Never used additives because others have said similar things as to what you have proven here. The only product you mention which I have used is Marvel Mystery Oil, but not in the engine oil sump. It has helped me with non-destructive disassembly of rusted mechanisms, after which they are rebuilt and then oiled with what they are designed to have.

I use Seafoam frequently. I've used it on an old Harley shovelhead, bore scoped it before and after. It did remove some carbon off the piston, and cleaned the intake and exhaust runners a bit. I have also used to go clean out gunked up carb jets when feeling lazy and it worked. Never used it in oil, but my understanding is that it's not a long term oil additive. It's intentionally a detergent supposed to be used very short term and exclusively for the purpose of cleaning deposits.

You're slowly becoming my favorite motor oil consultant, sir.

Hi Lake, First off, THANK YOU FOR HELPING YOUR AUDIENCE!! We truly appreciate what you share. I'm not much of a tune-up in a bottle mechanic short of gas additives to keep injectors clean. That being said, years back, I tried and liked Slick 50. Then, at some point, the company sold, and the recipe changed. I didn't catch it right away, but when I did, I stopped using it. Now, recently, the original Slick 50 inventor started selling the original formula, updating the technology and promoting it as classic or original or something like that verbiage. It would be fantastic if you could include both versions in your next oil additive rundown. Please keep up the great work. You rock buddy! TJ

Thanks for the info, completely changed my mindset! I've used Prolong on several engines, and never noticed anything bad, but seeing your analysis results, I will never use an additive in my engine oil ever again! And I'm forwarding your video to my mechanic buddy!

"Don't put that crap in your engine" is the best comment I heard. Yep, use the oil that fits your needs with no additives.

This is the video we needed. FR3 gained popularity in the diesel community because Hot Shot’s tested it in a Cummins on Firepunk Diesel’s dyno. They showed that FR3 slightly increased the power. After seeing your video, it would have done that because it lowered the viscosity but it’s actually INCREASING wear. Very good stuff here that a lot of people are going to hate to hear

One one car, I drained some oil, filled it with marvel, drove for a bit, drained, replaced with fresh oil. The crank case looked like it just came off the showroom, the exahust even smelled like a new car again & the gas mileage improved. Of course this car was catless, so your results may vary in terms of exhaust scent.

Have used Amsoil signature series exclusively in my vehicles , the longest I kept one was 350000 miles , still running like new . No additives needed .

I don't usually use motor oil additives. BUT, in defense of Marvel Mystery Oil, I must say I used it once to find out if it would free-up a stuck valve in my 91 Volvo 740 2.4 non-turbo with 360,500 miles on it. I added one quart of MMO to a quarter tank of gas ( 4 gallons), and added one quart of MMO to the crankcase (total of 4.5 quarts). After driving the car for 32 miles the valve started to move, and when I reached 60 miles the valve started functioning properly. New subscriber.

OMG TY for doing this. I'm a fleet Manager for a large company in the Northeast and I just took over a year ago. There is an entrenched belief among some of our mechanics that Lucas is helping with our aging fleet. I have tried to tell them that all we are doing is thickening the oil. I have tried to tell them If you truly believe that a higher viscosity is the right answer for engines that idle a lot and have high mileage, then just use a thicker grade. Now I have my proof. TY so much for giving me a reason to dump the expensive snake oil.

Thank you for your honesty and Truth. 🙏

I have successfully used Marvel Mystery Oil as a way to "free up" sticking, noisy hydraulic lifters. I only replace 1 quart of the engine's oil capacity and run it a few times up to operating temperature. Then change out the oil and filter. No long-term usage as implied here. In most cases, it would clear up the noisy lifter issue. Then back to telling the operator to keep the oil changes on schedule to prevent a recurrence. (Usually, the issue started due to missed oil change intervals and operating with low oil volume which over stresses the oil that is remaining in the engine). Otherwise, as Lake says, I never add anything to a good quality motor oil of the correct viscosity. Good advice here in this video backed by sound science. Great job Lake! Now do me a favor and stop biting your lip!

Seafoam is the only thing I use in that lineup, and NEVER in the crankcase. Gas tank only and I feed it through the vacuum line sometimes too. It saved me many carb rebuilds on small engines. I also use it as a fuel stabilizer and buy it by the gallon! Just my $0.02

I predict this video is going to get massive viewership as it gets shared on forums and discussions all over the internet. Outstanding info. Hopefully this helps people ignore the nonsense marketing and keep some of their money. Thank you!!

Interesting... I'm not a chemist but have has chemistry in college and can follow what you are demonstrating with you analyst... I stop using additives long ago in fear that would accelerated seal failure by harding them and creating leaks. You have solidified my decision. Thank You for the time you put into your testing.

It is a warning and every owners manual for a motorcycle quad or a car even trucks, in the owners manual, it clearly states, not to put additives in your oil. It also says to use only OEM parts… I remember, A motorcycle manufacturer from Japan rejecting a warranty claim on a Top of the line, most expensive motorcycle that was still under warranty. They rejected the claim because the owner went against the warning in the owners manual, and he used a cheap chinese aftermarket oil filter -(because it was chromed )He had an oil related engine failure. That customer had to resort to buying an engine from a salvage yard, and the shop, put it in his bike for him, at his expense.. some of those additives go on the market, and within a year or two, they are history. I remember the one that had Teflon particles in it. Your oil filter ended up, filtering those Teflon particles out of the oil, I don’t know if it blocked the oil filter or not, but I haven’t seen that stuff on the market For a long time. I also remember a couple products that were advertised heavily, they were over 95% kerosene. Then there was a product called STP… I think you can still buy it.. I was told by a friend of mine that went to Marietta petroleum Institute, that stp is simply refined crude oil before any of the additives and polymers were added. It has, no zinc, no phosphorus, no boron, no copper, no magnesium, no anti-foaming agent, No polymers to stabilize viscosity, it’s just like a lump of clay before someone forms it into something like a pot or a bowl. It’s just what you begin with when you start to build an oil for a specific duty.. Oils today are better than they have ever been.. at the same time, they are very specific in the owners, manual of your car, on which oil to use in certain temperatures in that vehicle.. The next time I talk to my petroleum, engineer friend, I’m going to ask him if lubricants labeled for racing, are like the parts of a race car that are labeled for racing like the shocks and the brakes and the tires. Those things are not designed for the long haul, they are designed to work for maybe one or two races, not thousands of miles.. I remember using champion, racing, spark plugs in my road racing motorcycle. They were given to me by the champion man. He gave me several boxes in different heat ranges. I soon found out that those spark plugs are only good for one heat cycle. After they have been through a heat cycle, cool down, and reheated, they are not as reliable as they were when they were new. They are like fire crackers, they’re only good one time I found that out because my machine lost about 300 RPMs and Top Gear, which translates to about 5 miles an hour lost… In a 15 lap sprint race, that means I would finish almost a lap behind where I would have finished with new plugs.. it was a big deal because I had won 6 Championships, two time national champion.. That was a long time ago back in the two-stroke days. Since then, I have used nothing but NGK spark plugs, in everything I own..

I worked 22 years at an oil packaging facility, in blending and testing. We heavily relied on Lubrizol, Chevron/Oronite and Ethyl additive companies for guidance. All preached that modern engine oils are finely tuned blends, that work well when changing oil regularly. Additives only unbalance the chemical composition of the engines oil and weren’t necessary and weren’t recommended. Shorter drain intervals were recommended over adding any store bought additives, as they are mostly marketing gimmicks....yielding 💰💰💰

Definitely need to do this is with fuel additives to see how it would affect the oil by being in the gas.

My uncle got our grandpas 2001 Dakota, and recently it lost a lot of compression in one cylinder and had misfiring issues. I suggested engine restore, he poured a container worth in and the compression came back. He is still driving that tired ole dakota. Its great if you just have nothing to lose.

I love that you have a scientific approach to what you do Lake! Really appreciate the work you do man! Just want to point out that even if one is striving for a scientific approach, one should not underestimate what goes into scientific research at a scientific laboratory. What I mean by that is simply that, even though your results are very telling and at the very least work as a strong indicator, unless you can scientifically prove that you have accounted for every possible variable and eliminated every source of human error (which isn't really practically realistic), we can't technically call it *irrefutable scientific proof* of anything. In fact, doing so at all is very unscientific to begin with. What we definitely *_can do_* however is draw some reasonable conclusions from the results you got. And I think you have definitely aided in that regard with this video. Thanks man!

*I'm unaccustomed to KZfaq videos that actually have informed substance. Well done!*

I agree, 6:45 do not add anything to fully-formulated motor oil. If it's lacking something research a better quality oil

Agree. I haven't used any oil additive. And more than that, I also avoid buying oil from brands that also sell oil additives. I mean, if your oil additive is good, why not add it directly to the engine oil you manufactured? Oil additives in my opinion are just for marketing purposes. Most of the big brand oil companies (Mobil, Pennzoil, you name it) do not offer oil additive products. I mean, these big oil companies are "greedy". They would send out numerous product lines to take up the shelf. But for something they don't even want to sell, you'd better not touch it.

Great Video! I never use additives but always use a motor flush before the first immediate oil change, when I buy a used vehicle, usually MMO, I have tried others. Then change the oil again in about 1000 miles. Can't wait for your motor flush video. Hopefully, sooner than later I'm in the market for a used vehicle right now. Keep up the great work. P.S. When you show a screenshot of an analysis please use a curser so we can follow along better with each of the numbers you explain. With a large highlighted area it's easy to get lost in where you're at.

My grandfather swore by Rislone Engine Treatment. I realized later in life that he assumed that modern oil was still based on 1940's technology.

LSJ is singlehandedly educating the world on modern oil formulations. Well done, sir!

Thank you for dispelling all rumors about additives

Most of the comments on this video are not regarding additives. People are ignorantly discussing oil change intervals and oil in general. Nothing to do with additives, except maybe where it goes. Not all additives go in the engine oil, and not all additives are for the purpose the video is discussing. Read the directions people. Additives are not meant to enhance the oil. It's meant to be used as a treatment for various purposes and degrees. It's like going to a pharmacy and assuming all medications are for one purpose, like maybe improving your blood. Take all the medications/treatments you want after you kidnap the pharmacist, then take everything, and then if your health/blood is not improved or you die (which is more likely) do not blame the product/company... you are the ignorant one for not reading up on the treatment documentation and/or speaking to your doctor/pharmacist. This video does prove one point, though, and that is, DO NOT BELIEVE THIS GUY!!! This guy claims to be an expert and claims science, but you can get more expert and science out of a childrens coloring book than this guy. When did he EVER explain/discuss what the company/product was claiming to be used for by even the minimum of reading the label? When? Never! Why is he doing an oil analysis if these products aren't meant to enhance the oil? They have a purpose, and the oil isn't one of them. Maybe he should be looking to see if the leak is fixed, or the oil consumption is fixed, or the internal engine parts are cleaner/better-shape, or if the engine got better mpg, or if the polllutants and emmissions p420 code went away, or if the engine lasted longer, or if the engine stayed cooler, or if the engine made more power, or if the engine ran smoother etc etc etc. Downvote this video!

Would've loved to see BG MOA included in this test.

Seafoam goes in the oil right before changing it to break up sludge. It has instructions. You are supposed to change the oil after 100 to 200 miles if I remember right. It works great, but I wouldn't use it on a clean newish engine, and i don't use it for every oil change.

I've been saying it for years to people who asked me about additives...DO NOT POUR this crap in your engine! Your test results are speaking a clear language. Thanks for sharing. :)

Well....Done. Thank you. Like yourself I've been in the industry my whole life, grew up in it, was the head of R&D for well know turbo company that culminated with me owning my own motorsports Design & Manufacturing CO. For years I would preach the same words and so many people wouldn't believe me. Some at least until the blackstone labs results came back or their $2600 turbocharger with 70 hours on it would decide to self destruct. 🤷‍♂ Great info. Subbed!

This proves what I have been doing for decades. Use a quality oil and filter and change it every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Just came across your channel and found it to be right on point scientifically. New Subscriber!!!

Thank you for you time and effort making this video. The information you provided is very important and much appreciated. Knowledge is power to make wise , informed decisions. Thanks Again!

thanks for taking the time to share....💙💯

This video was needed , so many shade tree mechanics swear by adding this junk . Thinking they're helping and they're really hurting their engine. Just buy the correct motor oil, and don't go 10,000 miles

There is no denying the fact that moly is a fantastic dry lube as its used for rings, bearings, piston skirts, assembly lubes, thread grease, ect. and even a trace additive in many high end motor oils. The liquimoly mso2 additive is a small particle dry lube suspended in a carrier oil that helps to evenly blend it into the oil then boil off. As long as you dont have one of those ultra low micron filters the moly will hang out in the oil until it gets mushed into the microscopic imperfections of the high friction locations resulting in less friction less wear. I use it religiously in all my motors but at 1/4 the suggested dose. Some things I notice when using it are noisy valvetrains get a near instant hush, engines last 2x-3x longer and increased power output. Also I was in a situation where a fuel injector failed while stuck open and I was able to reduce the misfire / detonation with some marv's mystery oil upper cylinder lubricant (fuel additive)

Fantastic, informative video. Thank You for producing it.

I used mystery oil on a couple of my cars & they ran marvelously up to 175k miles of daily beatings, redlines, burnouts & drifts, before selling. Both were very good on gas & never smoked or anything & the crankcase always looked pristine. Deff no complaints.

I used to use Ceratec in my vehicles, in part because it is known to quiet down the "typewriter tick" the coyote v8 makes. Just recently pulled oil pan off my cars, and the pan bottom was caked with "forbidden glitter" so I thought the bearings were shot. But, as far as I can tell, they are not. No glitter found in the VVT actuators, nothing in the valve cover...nothing anywhere else except the oil pan where it was more solid than fluid. I did some armchair research, and there are a few pictures of other people who had similar deposits in their oil pan, and you can see others showing what looks like bearing glitter in the oil. But it's not -- it's the ceretec falling out of suspension. Which really makes sense because even the bottle tells you to shake it up. Lots of good info in here. I can see now why I need to pick an oil and stick with it. Doing the OCD brand changeup throughout the year could be bad as you showed. Also, I didn't think that fuel additives were needed, thinking they are already good enough in the gas. Well. you can't argue with proof, so I will definitely start using it. Thank you for testing these!

I remember watching a british program that tested a well used, somewhat modestly taken care of VW rabbit or something of the like. Anyway, they dynoed the VW with and without the use of a fuel additive specifically containing PEA. The VW picked up about 7hp to the wheels 2 weeks after the use of the additive in 1 full tank of gas. Everyone was surprised. Since then, I've always been interested in this type of stuff.

I use liquimoly mos2. And I sampled new oil with the mos2 added, then used oil at change. Half of the molybdenum was in the used oil. That means half did adhere to parts in the engine as intended. I am happy with that. Startup is the only time you do not have hydro dynamic suspension and the only time you have wear. Mos2 helps reduce that.

I learnt something new today, which is useful. Great start to the day. Profound thanks..

When I was a young mechanic in HS my teacher convinced me to use STP. This morphed into using Slick 50. After many years of cross country driving using Slick 50 I can honestly say it has no benefits and no real negative. My 1983 Dodge pickup 4x4 with the 318 V8. Stick shift.Drove this truck till 1997 and it had over 300k miles. No engine or transmission issues. But I religiously changed my oil at 3,000 miles !

One of the best videos on this topic ever. I never got why people buy expensive expertly formulated oils... and then mix it with a bunch of unknown stuff and think it would help them.

Use MMO in my fuel system and it works well. I would never put anything in my oil. Great video

You blow my head away ! I have been using additives since I was born 70 years ago! WTF I was wrong for so many years, spending thousands of Euros (in your case, dollar) for doing the opposite to what I was looking for! Thank you for being so informative 🙏

Finally a video that is in English and uses actual tests, science, and facts. (Quietly puts the engine oil additive back on the shelf I’ve been using for years)

Thank you for posting this video. This very precisely backs up what I have been telling people since the 80s. The only time you get something positive from an additive is when you've got an engine that needs rebuilt, and a viscosity increase quiets the rod knock. When the engine is at that point, you've really got nothing to lose.

WOW! This was absolutely genius. Thank you for the information, these are the things that us gear heads definitely need to know!

I've never used any additives except seafoam. Seafoam is meant to be used as a cleaner. Pour a bottle into the gas tank, pour half a bottle into the crankcase and pour the other half of the bottle into the brake booster line. Let it run for 15 minutes then drain the oil. Anything other than this is outside of its recommended use. Thanks for taking the time to address these questions for the community and for sharing this video.

2014 F150 3.5L ecoboost. Entire life on Amsoil signature series and truck has 315000kilometers. Doesn’t use a drop. Has never had any internal timing components fail. Zero cold start rattle or any other typical ecoboost variable timing parts issues. I use a dual remote filter setup that has amsoil primary filter and bypass filter. Clean high quality oil and motor runs as well as when it was new.

Back in 2000´s, the days when I was studying to be a technician, we had a short scratch on the surface about oils, oil additives and stuff they do. I have not used "special" additives ever since and I just heard pretty much the same reasonings here as what my teacher said back then. Important video, thanks!

Great video ! Lots of work and lots of good information. You are THE Guru. Keep up the great work ! THANKS !!!

Much respect for your effort to open our eyes blinded by aggressive marketing.

I'm pretty much speechless. This is the most comprehensive scientific side by side test of oil additives I have ever seen in my life. This is science, not speculation. I use an oil additive, however not one used in your tests. MotorKote. I would have loved to have seen it as part of the tests, but I think I know what to expect. Thanks for this evaluation!!

Thanks for doing all the testing! And then translating it so those of us who don’t have a technical background in the field can understand basics.

I can’t be the only one that wishes the BG MOA stuff would have been part of this.

You said if you had to add additives to your oil, you're using the wrong oil! That's why I started running diesel oil in all my old vehicles with flat tappet cams, since they took zinc out of oils years ago but diesels still run it, it's perfect! Great video

Thank you, Lake, we have been looking forward to finally see your next video.

Thank you for this video. You have answered my speculations of over 50 years! Excellent job.

I have a C1500 from 1989 350 v8 with a lot of miles,im using 15W40 Diesel oil because the daily use,the only additive im using now is STP to keep the valve seals good enough in "prevention" of oil consuming,which in my opinion its been reduced. I used in two ocations RESTORE compression restorer and in my opinion,IT WORKED,TNX in advance!😊

So glad I found this channel. Finally , conclusions derived through controlled testing and confirmation.

Awesome Video. I was a mechanic for 25 years and have never been a fan of additives. This has confirmed my feelings with data Thanks!!

Seafoam is not an additive it’s an engine cleaner, it even states it’s a cleaner on the back of the label. You put it in and drive around for a few miles and change the oil

Appreciate your very informative videos. Please keep them coming.

I feel validated 😊. I have used one brand of diesel for 10 years and injectors are doing well. The proprietary detergents are are worth the price difference. Injectors are about 1000 each with labor.

Per Wikipedia: The Marvel Oil Company (also known as Marvel Carburetor Company; Marvel-Schebler Carburetors since 1928) was founded by Burt Pierce in 1923.[2] Before World War I, the company produced carburetors for automobiles and aircraft. Some of these encountered problems with clogged jets, prompting Pierce to formulate a blend of chemicals and petroleum to clean and maintain them. Bottom line, this stuff works on carburetors, it's an ultrathin oil with solvents. The oil part is key in carburetors, it helps the solvent penetrate better while lubricating any moving parts. It also prevents corrosion in carburetors from ethanol fuel

Bought a car that I didn't know was using oil at a pace of 400mi. per quart. I used Marvel Mystery Oil in it and got it down to about 1200mi. per quart. Then change the oil back to straight oil no MMO. Turns out the car I bought had piston oil ring/oil drain hole issues from the manufacturer. The MMO seemed to be a good cleaner. That's the only claim Ill make for MMO.

Great video! I often wondered if additives could have a negative effects, and the numbers don't lie. I subbed!

You won me as a sub. I highly believe in the science not the sales-promo. Thanks Mr.Geek

Thanks for the video and telling the truth, even if it hurts someone's feelings. Kicking ass and taking names!

Great video. I wish you could test slick50 from the 80s. 😂

Great info!!! Your doing Gods work my friend. Subscribed and liked.

Thank you so much for a scientific explanation of what additives do. I never thought about the dilution factor or the competing chemical problems.

Love to see the results on diesel targeted additives like RevX,Archoil,Hotshots secret stiction reducer. These are very well known in the diesel industry but I can never find any scientific testing regarding what they do to your oil. Thanks for bringing your knowledge to the average consumer.

Thank you, Mr. Speed. I've been using MMO for years in all my vehicles and have never had a problem with any of them!

Good video, not surprised at any of the results as someone with a quarter century experience as a tech and long time BITOG oil geek. That being said, I will always swear by MMO piston soak followed by seafoam aerosol treatment through the throttle shortly before an oil change every 2-3 years on older stuff. I've taken engines that burn a qt/1k miles to burning essentially zero with that practice, even when north of 300k mi. YMMV ofc. I also sometimes use a little shot (1oz) of Redline break-in additive when pouring fresh oil to boost the add pack a bit on performance-oriented motors, otherwise I mostly lol@ additive jockeys

I love these videos! Please keep them coming! Could you please cover MOTORCYCLE oils please? Many people aren't even aware you can't pour JASO MB oil into a wet clutch motorcycle that's supposed to use JASO MA, MA2 but you CAN pour MA into a CVT scooter. I think! Would love to hear from you on motorcycle lubes. There's also fork oil, brake fluid ... very few people are covering these topics properly.

My takeaways today; 1. Modern oils are so highly engineered that they can't be improved by the end user. 2. Gas detergents are good and should be used regularly even with direct injection engines.

Been using Motorkote for 20+ yrs. oil tests done occasionally, no excessive wear on anything when i upgrade engine internals. Who knows, ill keep using til its geek tested or see some negatives.

Great video! Definitely looking forward to learning about engine flushes, since I've used SeaFoam for that in the past (about 25% in the crankcase, sometimes cold but not every time, then the rest goes in the gas tank so I don't have it hanging around in the garage for the next engine flush).

Thanks for the information, it helps me a lot. I was about to buy an additive for my crv