I build the fine control for the cross feed, add brushes, start on the wiring and electronics, and have fun sawing away. What a nice machine this will be!
Пікірлер: 38
@colincreedtattoomachines5 ай бұрын
Nice work Michel, those results more than validate your "proof of concept", Congrats!!
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Thank you Colin. Nice to see you're always one of the first to respond.😊
@johnlambo1355 ай бұрын
Prachtig weer Michel !!!!!!! Ik kan hier zo van genieten ;-)
@no1se7065 ай бұрын
just perfect job, nice idea
@mceajc5 ай бұрын
Excellent! A great tool.
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@warrenjones7445 ай бұрын
Very Nice Michel, It seems like a very handy tool for the small parts shop or instrument maker. And looks like a great project for the home shop machinist that will last his or her life time. I am very impressed and eagerly await the finishing touches. Cheers. Edit: fix spelling
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Thank you. Yes, that is exactly why I built this machine.
@Michael-ze6oz5 ай бұрын
Wat is dit waanzinnig mooi. Een schitterende oplossing om meer space te creeren tussen het zaagblad en de machine. Ik dacht altijd dat 2 wielen vereist was voor voldoende grip op de zaagblad (=> halve cirkel omtrek contact) maar je bewijst dat het met vier wielen ook prima gaat (=> kwart cirkel contact). Geweldig! 👍
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Dankjewel 🙂
@davidcolwill8605 ай бұрын
Impressive!
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Thank you
@donaldvantongeren83855 ай бұрын
What a great project sir! One wonders why these are not commercially available…… excellent for people with limited space (as we’re used to in Holland)
@jrkorman5 ай бұрын
How many of these could a company sell and at what price to even break even?
@taranson3057Ай бұрын
De tafellintzaag is GEWELDIG. Hoewel ik al een bandzaag voor het snijden van metaal heb, moet ik misschien toch een van deze kleine bandzagen maken en deze op een andere bank in mijn winkel zetten, dichter bij mijn molen en draaibank.
@rok14754 ай бұрын
You should glue the capacitors to the circuit board. A blob of hot glue or silicone sealant will do the job. Otherwise, with the driver attached to the machine, vibrations will be shaking those big capacitors, leading to failure.
@Michel-Uphoff4 ай бұрын
There are hardly any perceptible vibrations. So that's not necessary.
@rjung_ch4 ай бұрын
👍💪✌
@nerddub5 ай бұрын
this looks amazing! I wonder what it's maximum cutting thickness is, this looks extremely valuable for space limited hobby machinists like myself.
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Haven't tested that yet. I was aiming for a 6 cm solid bar as a maximum. Yes, the machine fits in a limited space, but is not limited in capacity, precision and versatility I hope.
@nerddub5 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff that's ecactly what I was thinking, too. looks like the perfect desk top tool, in that it is capable of that precision and versatility while sitting on a corner of a bench.6cm solid is probably all my lathe and mill could handle anyway so that sounds perfect! thanks for replying!
@stewartfrye5 ай бұрын
Love It
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Me too..
@jobkneppers5 ай бұрын
Michel, my knurling became much better when I started calculating the right diameter for the knurling. If you don't know; divide the circumference of the theoretical diameter with the pitch/spacing of the knurl. Keep the integer and loose the float. Multiply the integer with the pitch. Divide by Pi. This outcome is the desired diameter. Turn the part to this and you'll end up with nice knurls with no in between marks. Another tip; don't solder the wire end when clamped. The solder will creep indefinitely under the clamp pressure and will end up loose. It's better to use crimp ferrules, ask me how I know.. Thank you! Best! Job
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
I may have done something wrong, but I fear it is due to my far too cheap knurling wheels. The measured diameter of one knurling wheel is 19.15 mm. But the other one is 19.36 mm in diameter and here it goes very wrong with a circumference difference of almost 0.66 mm. 50 teeth per wheel, so the pitch is 1.203 mm (or 1.216 mm). So the wheels already differ by half a pitch. First I'm going to buy a set of quality knurling wheels and build the knurling tool myself. I'm thinking off carbide wheels. Do you have a tip where I can buy good ones? I don't have ferules nor a plier, so I twisted the strands before soldering as I always do. Never ever had any problems with that. I'l look in to a set of ferrules and a plier.
@jobkneppers5 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff Michel, I used HSS ones for many years and they still work fine. I bought mine from a company which doesn't exist any more. But Rubix and Hoffmann sell them too. The cutting ones are the best although expensive. They are offered at MarkPlaats irregularly. Best, Job
@spambot71104 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff even if you don't use ferrules, it's better to just twist the wires together and stick them in like that. the solder will work perfectly fine for an unpredictable length of time and then fail, possibly ruining the contacts or worse
@Sigmatechnica5 ай бұрын
Looking good! You shouldn't tin the ends of wires with solder if they are going into screw terminals though. the solder will creep over time and you will get a bad connection. i had this with one of the early versions of my 3d printer. either use bare wire, or a crimp termination
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Yes, I've read that. There are however multiple and sometimes conflicting arguments to do or not do so. However, I never had any problems with it, and I am doing it this way for 50+ years.
@Sigmatechnica5 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff I wouldn't have believed it was an issue until i had a problem with it myself. I had to keep tightening the screws only to have them get loose and make a poor connection a few days later. if it works for you though then no problem of course.. probably depends on the solder, wire, current etc
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
@@Sigmatechnica Yes, that could be the case. But I also think that some people do not twist the ends of the wires together firmly before soldering them. If you do not twist the strands, but leave them parallel and then solder them, little force is required to break the bond and press the strands apart with a clamp bolt. This can then result in a sub-optimal connection.
@imajeenyus425 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff I recently started using crimp-on bootlace ferrules for stranded wire going in to terminal blocks, and I really like them.
@PermireFabrica5 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff Please do use ferrules for this job. As others has said. Solder can "flow" under pressure and the connection is loosening. There is literally no excuse to not use ferrules. They are easy to use, faster than tinning and if you use the isolation ferrules it provides some mechanical stress relief.
@lohikarhu7345 ай бұрын
i was thinking, sir, that putting as much mass as possible on the periphery of the rollers would give the maximum rotational inertia, for smoothest band velocity when the cut encounters different density/resistance...if that matters...
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
I do think that the inertia of the wheels will contribute somewhat to the quality of the cut, but it will not be much. So far I haven't noticed the rpm changing while cutting. This is largely due to the constant cutting speed and torque that the engine can deliver.
@joell4395 ай бұрын
👍👍😎👍👍
@williamdinisco80815 ай бұрын
Where did you 4:09 purchase that thin chip brush with the green handle? Its really cool!
@Michel-Uphoff5 ай бұрын
Google for Hard-Bristled Crevice Cleaning Brush, and I think you will find similar brushes.