Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

And I'm happy with the loyal subscribers like you, Victor when they post encouraging comments🙂

Wow. Thanks!

I had the same impression when I applied the black paint. Those ultra beautiful, but criminally expensive tape recorders of yesteryear.

Thanks!

Thanks Colin 🙂

Thanks!

Dankjewel!

Thank you! I have no need for more length. 30 cm length or width is sufficient.

@@Michel-Uphoff Forgive me, i thought so, the way you buildt and designed it was obviously for your needs and fits it perfect 🙂 BTW forgot to subscribe - DONE! ♥

Thank you!

Stay tuned.. 🙂

I'd worry about the bending of the blade. There's a design using 3 wheels, not four. In the end, it's about the blade no snapping before it's worn out anyway. Some saws got a wheel with a convex surface, the blade always climbs to the greatest diameter, centers itself.

@@timtim8468 See the previous videos in this series, and read the comments. This 'bending' issue is covered in quite some detail.

My wife loves your music. Who is the performer and what is the music?

Thank you 🙂

Ah, thanks!

😂

You're welcome 🙂

I considered an autofeed and took it into account in the design. But halfway through construction I abandoned the idea. Such an automatic feed only really makes sense if a cutting job would take a long time. And that is only the case with 30 mm solid steel (1 minute or so) or thicker . I have to cut that so rarely that I don't think the extra work is worth it. A cordless drill doesn't seem like a good idea to me. The speed is probably much too high for the more time consuming tasks you would like to use it for (cutting thick, solid steel with very slow feed rate).

I expect them to stay in the cover if they fail.

Dankjewel John.

And thank you for the compliment

Here with my computer and tablet, the noise level of the machines is not disturbingly loud. Thank you for reporting this, next time I will turn the machine sounds down further.

(see the other video's in this series) Yes, I considered that and took it into account in the design. But halfway through construction I abandoned the idea. Such an automatic feed only really makes sense if a sawing task would take a long time. And that is only the case with 30 mm solid steel (1 minute sawing time or so) or thicker. I saw that so rarely that I didn't think the extra work was worth it.

Yes! 🙂

You could try to forge a bandsaw... if you succeed you will become very famous.

Hi Job! Yes, also considered ordering some chemical blackening for aluminum, but didn't. Do you have experience with that? If so, what is the result?

@@Michel-Uphoff It's cheap, scratch resistant and looks great (remove scratches before handing it over and degrease with acetone.) Alulox Schiedam is my favorite company for it.

Rpm doesn't tell me much without knowing the wheel diameter. I assume that your Scheppach has 10 inch wheels (roughly 80 cm circumference). Then the cutting speed of your machine is adjustable from 120 to 220 meters per minute (m/m). My saw is adjustable from 20 to 225 m/m. So the difference is in the lower regions. At low rpm torque becomes an issue when using cheap motors. And that is why many band saws have too high a minimum cutting speed. It works, but the life of the saw is not long cutting at too high a speed. Recommended cutting speeds according to the manufacturer of a good quality bimetal band saw: Stainless 30-50 m/m, carbon steel 50-80 m/m, free cutting steel 80-120 m/m, brass 120-300 m/m, aluminum 150-500 m/m.

@@Michel-Uphoff Michel. thanks for the considered reply. The Scheppach wheels are approx 150mm diameter (6"). The circumference will be 471mm They are a little difficult to measure accurately. You are right this will run at lower rpm per motor shaft speed than your dia at 118 mm at 370 mm circumference. Yours would need 1.27X more revs than the Schappach for the same feed rate. As I mentioned I use 150rpm motor shaft speed for all materials and that equates to 190 rpm on your machine. The instructions with the saw state saw blade speed is variable from 0.7 to 2.4 M/sec . (That would be 42 M/min to 144 M/min) This equates well to your figures for the rates for various materials and why I have managed using the low speed only for all materials. Incidentally the blade length is 1140mm. The big difference I suspect between the Schappel and yours is the motor power.The specs of the Schappel state the motor is 1400 watt. It does not slow up significantly with quite heavy pressure on the blade. As you probably realise I am considering what the minimum motor size would be taking account of gear reduction increasing torque. John

@@john2478 The experience with my 400 Watt 1:5 reduced brushless 48v DC motor is that it is more than powerful enough for the work the Tiny Toolgrinder is designed for (max 60 mm solid bar). Importantly, even at the lowest speed the torque of this motor remains high, unlike the cheap brushed motors, which can only be reduced in speed by cutting off or interrupting the current.

@@Michel-Uphoff Michel Ok thanks for the info on the motor and gearing ratio. John

Not at this moment, but maybe if I find some extra sime I will make them.

If there is a lot of demand, I will consider that.

I bought mine in China. Here's another one: www.amazon.com/3000RPM-Motor-Speed-Noise-Brushless/dp/B0BYRSQXG1?th=1 or just Google for: brushless 48v DC motor 400w. You also need a motor driver. For my design you also need a 90 degree 1:5 reducing gearbox.

Thank you! Please build one! 14 TPI at the moment. I think I will buy a 24 teeth per inch band for my small stuff.

I still have to make a 45 degree miter. Other angles I never needed. That's why I didn't made a miter gauge, which by the way could easily be done in this design.

And then it will stay in this cover as tested.

Yes, without problems. See the video, where I cut a 30 mm square solid steel bar.