Tried the link, said page doesnt exist. really would like to buy some of the 4x4 post footings like used in the video.

@@donaldsullivan7434 I just tried it and it worked for me. You can also get them on www.dock.shop

@@SethMerriam thanks for the info! Just ordered some.

Thank you! My two brothers and I come up with these parts and they actually are intended for docks. They are marine grade aluminum for the water and they work on land too. They sat on the shelves and were almost removed from production but last summer we sold 5 seasons of production after this video reached over 100k views. I'm currently working on a couple more videos featuring some of our other hardware. We have a welding robot and a team of the best welders making them. Thank you for watching!

And it's gently amusing.

Yes, just you!

CRAIG!!! NO!!! CREEPSHARK ALERT EVERYONE OUT OF THE WATER LOOKS LIKE A CRAIGFIN CREEPSHARK

Yes, I’m fortunate to have Poland Spring a few minutes away. We have clean lakes around here in Maine. I think you’re right about the barrel dock. Here is a link that may help. greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/

Somehow those cookies keep their flavor even though they get hard enough to trace with a pencil.

When you're installing docks you might eat anything.

🤣🤣🤣

waterlogged wood is naturally preserved. The actual deck will be more exposed to the elements and rot faster.

​​@@mkuc6951 so why not build the whole deck with waterlogged wood..

@@breatheinbreatheout8372 the posts will last longer than the deck.

Oh gosh, sorry for the late reply? I just went down through my comments and see that I missed yours. If it’s a high wind area, put them as deep as you can. 2’ is pretty good. Deeper is more stable. Wood posts float so in deep water you should put them deeper for holding power or go with my pipe leg option. If it’s soft bottom, push them in until they hit firm bottom beneath muck. In protected areas with low wind, depth is still good for the load on the dock and it’s stability. If bottomless muck, think about a floating dock that doesn’t deal with legs poking into the stinky mud. The dock in the video was about 1.5’ beneath the sand and about 4’ of water at the end. I took my boat off in high wind and put it on the mooring.

This is one option but if you have acidic water, consider polyethylene floats under your wood frames to keep them out of the water. greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/plans-estimated-pricing/ If you just don't trust the Pressure Treated, under water, consider galvanized pipe legs instead. greatnortherndocks.com/stationary-pipe-hardware/dock-hardware-pipe-leg-support/ All things have a life span and water has different properties depending on where you are. We have a local bog we made a mile long boardwalk made of floating and stationary powder coated aluminum, synthetic polyethylene decking and polyethylene floats. Peat Moss is acidic and the old walkway made of wood lasted about 20 years before we replaced it with long lasting materials. greatnortherndocks.com/modular-aluminum-boardwalk-sections/

For 40 years and doing well. Try the site again, there could have been a glitch with the server.

greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/

greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/

If you’re worried, the pipe legs are another option. They drive deeper in the ground and don’t have buoyancy. www.google.com/search?q=build+a+dock+with+pipe+legs&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=sivxn&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiykaDYuu71AhVqQt8KHRLsCc4Q_AUoA3oECAIQAw&biw=375&bih=553&dpr=2#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:3bb7a319,vid:2Q9nZe1YGJM,st:0

You can call my sales team at Great Northern Docks for help with that. Your location details would be helpful and use intentions. There are many options depending on the landscape and conditions. You might also see something that works for you in the book we published (building your own dock). Available at all major book stores.

@@SethMerriam ordered your book and I will reach out to your sales team. thank you

Drag On Floats, there are 2 sizes. This is the one in the video. greatnortherndocks.com/product/dock-float-10-x24-x48-air-filled-drag-on-float-2302/

When you winch up the dock section, put the level on the deck. For the first 2 legs, level one end side to side between the first 2 legs even though the outer end is slanted in the water. Tighten the first two legs then pivot the outer end up with your jack pole. Put that jack pole in the center so the section is balanced evenly. Raise the outer end of the section until it is level then drop in legs 3 and 4 just like the video shows. Put the legs in and use a level on the north and east sides of the post to make sure they are plumb before sinking them in the ground. If the deck isn't level, your posts will not be either. The first section is like a table. The other sections get hooked on and raised up level. Each leg should be checked and plumb before driving. Once driven, tighten each bracket to hold it. You could use 4 leveling winches but this is how you do it with one. If you need to drive the first two into the ground after legs 3 and 4, put the winch back there between 1 and 2 release the bracket clamps and drive them in as well. Once the 4 legs are tight and level each other section is easier because one hooks to the other and you only need to add 2 legs. If you make an L, watch the video again to see how I did it. Good luck!

The good thing is you can remove it in sections before the storm hits.

Absolutely, here is a link with pictures. greatnortherndocks.com/boardwalk-framing-plans-2/

I put the everything in the cart to get a price and it was about $1,800 for the hardware and ladder before shipping cost. The wood is something you get at your lumber supply store and you will have to get a price from them on what wood you choose for decking, framing and legs. Here is a page that shows the hardware and prices. greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/ Your water depth will be helpful when pricing your legs and braces. Measure every 10 from shore so you have an idea of the slope and depth where legs are. When this video was made before the increase of wood prices, these sections were built for about $300 each. If you need help with the lumber list, it's provided in the plans here. greatnortherndocks.com/dock-plans-diy-parts/

greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/

In the book, "Building your own dock" I show how to build a dock with the ugly blue barrels. Barrels are cheaper but the buoyancy is in the middle so they bob up and down more than flotation that has buoyancy out to the corners, If the bottom is muck, I usually prefer floating. They are easy to connect and go in quick. If there is a lot of wind, floating can be hard to anchor in place. High wind often scrubs the muck away so I usually suggest stationary in that location. If you do floating, the blue foam will make a mess when animals start to nest in it and chew it up. bare foam takes on water and gets heavy. Foam inside rotation molded polyethylene is OK or the Air Filled Dragon float with skid option is really the way to go for floating. Drag them in and out. You might also consider the MPDs (Modular Plastic Docks) greatnortherndocks.com/plastic-dock/. As for cost of any project, the wood portion is changing based on lumber and the big stores buying up all the PT on the market and charging triple. Prices for the parts are all on the site. The hardware and MPDs can be shipped affordably. greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/plans-estimated-pricing/ If your do floating, the decking should be wood like cedar for best twisting strength. The cedar is lightest. If you have screwed down plastic panel decking, the twisting of a floating dock can snap the screws off that hold down the decking. Those panels don't usually have structural strength to allow frames that want to twist. Plastic deck panels work best in stationary docks or decks or your frame will need to build heavy and strong so it can't flex in the water with wave action or heavy loads of people that get on one corner.

They come out and get stacked on shore. They are made small enough to move the sections in and out every year. Some areas have different permits for permanent docks and you might put a bubbler in that keeps it from freezing. Those make the ice unsafe though. Usually if you let it freeze in the ice, it gets destroyed. The ice moves and lilts on the shore. People usually take their boats out too.

The foot greatnortherndocks.com/product/4x4-post-foot-4069f/

The bracket clamps the post so yes but I make my docks removable so the ice doesn't take them away. Ice is very strong and it shifts. Nothing with legs can stop it. If you are making a boardwalk on a wetland, it usually makes it through the winter with just a little heaving. Docks in deep ice should be removed just like a boat would be removed so it doesn't get crushed by expanding ice.

greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/

All of it comes out for the winter. The legs get numbered and installed in the same place in the spring. This is in Maine where Ice gets up to 3’ thick. Even an inch of ice can move and wreck anything left in for the winter. Once the hardware is on the dock, and legs are cut to length removal takes about 30 minutes and install takes about twice as long.

In the video I've explained that I prefer 2x6 framing because it is light enough that I can move it by myself and strong enough for my boat. You can use larger lumber if you don't mind lifting it.

greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/

If there is mud, I usually prefer a floating dock. Floating docks work great when water isn't to rough. In my experience, mud is usually found in locations that are low wind and floating docks are ideal. If the muck has a layer of hard gravel beneath, the post legs will work but the do come out hard for winter removal. It's more fun do build a floating dock when there is deep mud. Here is a link to some plans I drew up and the hardware to build a good floating dock. greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/plans-estimated-pricing/

Seth Merriam great information! Thanks.

Yes there is ice and the sections and legs come out easily so the ice doesn’t destroy them. It took about an hour to remove this one. Setting it up is a little longer but the first time I had to cut legs and point the ends. The he legs get marked or numbered so they get used in the same location each following season. Everything gets stored on flat dry space away from ice pushing up in shore.

This video is about a removable dock system that can be installed and removed in an afternoon. I would never suggest leaving a dock in the ice.

You can get a price on the lumber from your local lumber yard. I have framing plans here. greatnortherndocks.com/dock-plans-diy-parts/ I'd say you can expect to spend around $300 per section for the lumber. Here is a link to the hardware. greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/ The post will be priced by the length and depth of your water.

You can’t use just normal treated wood it must be .23 treatment level to be able to submerge into water, I have tried just about every lumber yard and they don’t even know about this stuff

@@barny3ce That is something to consider. There are different treatments and some that are not allowed in water depending on local laws. ACQ (Alkaline copper quaternary) is one treatment that injects copper into the wood fibers. CCA (Chromated copper arsenate) in my area is no longer allowed other than for supporting power lines or ocean pilings. You should check with a manufacturer to find a distributer in your area. You can also check with manufacturers for the treatment levels and what they suggest for under ground and water or salt water contact. The manufacturer will know who they distribute to. If your dock is seasonal, it will be out of the water some of the time. Keep in mind, Wood posts are not the only way to build a dock. I also build them with galvanized pipe legs and floating with polyethylene floats that attach to wood dock sections. Take a look here for some free ideas and plans for wood dock construction. www.dock.shop/shop You can also check out www.greatnortherndocks.com for aluminum docks and the shop menu for DIY hardware.

The Guardian is on hold and not available at this time. You may be able to use these instead. greatnortherndocks.com/product/plastic-bumper-36-white-by-itself-without-hardware-2251/

I think it would get in the water.

greatnortherndocks.com/4x4-post-dock-hardware/ greatnortherndocks.com/?s=Book

Check with the lumber supplier for specs under water. Some treated wood is for submerged use and you my also consider Hemlock. We use Hemlock skids under our Dragon Floats.

I would put a railing with wire fencing attached. This bracket can clamp an upright 2x4 to the side of the frame for attaching a hand rail. greatnortherndocks.com/product/2x4-rail-post-clamp-4-pack-4051/

The hose made it easy to get the post in up to the foot. If my foot were higher up, it would have kept going. A deeper post does have more strength. I've seen some lake bottoms have 7' of mud before getting to firm soil. If you have a situation like that, sometimes floating docks are preferred. As for knowing the height to put in the ground, think about the size of the boat you're holding. If it's a small boat or no boat, you don't have to go as far into the ground. When I build pipe docks, I drive the pipe 2'-3' into the soil if it has a boat tied to it and if there isn't a boat, I put the feet right on the end of the pipe so its not driven. the weight of the dock holds it like a table in the water.