uberflutak Hi how did you removed the turbo? From the top or bottom?

sreviz. I had to remove & clean the entire intake & EGR system, replace some worn injectors, trace a boost leak, fit new engine pads and drain the oil out of the intercooler. It's a lot easier getting to the nuts on the exhaust manifold without the intake & injector pipes in the way AND the nut under the turbo where it bolts to the collector. I'd start by removing the top engine brace, then the air filter housing. Hold the top of the inner wing with your right hand, put your right foot on the NSF tyre & pull yourself up and over. You can put your left foot on the top of the gearbox (watch the cables & linkage) then lie down on top of the engine (bit of old carpet & cardboard boxes will protect the electric cables etc) & rest your legs on the top of the wing and reach down to access the turbo. If you build a little wooden frame you can carefully lift everything out 1 at a time. There isn't much space with the manifold studs in the way and the oil return. It will save your back too. WARNING! Refitting the oil return pipe from the turbo is a nightmare. I ended up loosely bolting the exhaust manifold, turbo & oil return, EGR system together and tying it to a wooden frame so I could wiggle it in & had someone help me lower it into position. Make sure you fish out the O-ring in the hole where the oil drains into the sump. Keep the kids locked indoors & turn the radio up when you start swearing and kicking things in anger. Maybe change the cambelt as everything is already opened up. I didn't check my alternator pulley at the time. 6 months later the pulley has failed & I need to fix it in the freezing cold. Maybe think about blocking the EGR where the flexi pipe comes off the manifold and attaches to the EGR cooler. And check the plastic boost pipe that goes under the engine. Ours was full of engine oil. If you do clean the intake & remove the injectors, just be careful doing up the injector pipes. Oh and don't bother with the new injector hold down plates. Just bend them back a bit in a vice and they will be ok. Good luck. You'll need it.

Hi Si did you ever get round to doing a video on replacing ABS toothed rings?

Just google it stop asking in a dead comment section when he dosent even reply to anyone

You must be mistaking me for someone else. I post maybe 30 replies a day and have already answered Leon's questions on another video comment.

Mahmoud Abdulrazzak are u sure yours has it? Or was an option?

Abs ring, tone ring, pulse wheel..... So long as we all know what we're talking about, that's the main thing.

I use the ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth dongle with the Torque Pro app on Android. That is only suitable for engine and automatic transmission modules. Abs and speed sensors require a tool which can read braking modules and the tool I use is Volvo only so not suitable for Saab unfortunately. Other tools are out there though.

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If you've done basic visual checks and nothing is obvious, I wouldn't guess at anything. You'll need at the very least to do a code read of the ABS module.

yeh thanks ive got a appt.at Midas to scope it tommorow

First check abs sensor on the wheel wich is doing it! Most likely salt grime has built up between sensor and housing it’s mounted to! And needs cleaned and reseated! 2 check your fuel ratio! Wich includes filter plugs and very strong fuel injector cleaner to unclog potentially clogged injectors!. As video states lift on jack turn wheels manually check for drag for bad wheel hubs!!