Did it work?

That's great to hear! Thank you for the positive feedback!

How the clutch did you use oem flywheel or act

You're not wrong! Just did mine based solely on this video.

How did the install go?

@blankman4320 Install never happened. Cars been in the garage since last June, spun a rod bearing...Had to buy a beater to get me to work and back. Currently saving for an IAG Shortblock and all the other crap I have to scrap lol

Thank you so much! That was what we were going for! Straight to the point. No celebrities, fashion, hype about the company, etc. We want these videos to be relevant many years from now. Our goal is to become a trusted source of information. The torque specs are only for the 2017 we performed the install on, and they do vary over different years. Please consult the factory manual for the correct torque specs for your year, make, and model.

Got 23k miles on my 21 sti and was watching these for the near future and my oh my😅

but if you do that then you gotta align the vehicle, going off lower ball joints you don’t.

@@trillbreh3644 mark the position of the bolts with an ink maker you wouldn’t need an alignment and trust the ball joints are more likely to break removing them then just pulling the axle and even with marks the strut bolts do not have adjustments it’s 2 straight holes

It is in our opinion that removing the engine to replace the clutch/flywheel is much harder than removing the transmission. Removing the hood, disconnecting fuel lines, draining the coolant system, disconnecting all the wiring, possibly removing or disconnecting the power steering pump, possibly disconnecting and evacuating the HVAC system and most assuredly other things that need to be disconnected or removed as well as other tools needed (such as an engine hoist). All these items associated with removing the engine makes a solid case for only removing the components needed to be able to remove the transmission and of course the transmission itself. And then think that everything must be reinstalled, fluids filled and HVAC possibly charged. Take into consideration that we have a lift in our factory and we remove and install clutches/flywheels frequently for testing on a multitude of vehicle makes and models. Again, that’s just our opinion. Someone who works on Subaru’s specifically might have another opinion on this and may have some shortcuts to make engine removal easier and faster.

Getting the bearing to “click” into place is shown in the video @ 11:56. The ACT Monoloc included on our pressure plates is a bit more robust than the OEM bearing retaining collar and will need a little more force to get the bearing to seat into it. There should be no issues.

@@AdvancedClutchTechnology thanks for the quick response! I’m definitely having issues and confirming many others within the Subaru forums having the same issue. Planning on pulling the tranny to re-seat it at this point.

Thank you for question. In our many years of clutch testing, development and manufacturing, we feel that 11.8 ft./lbs. is awfully low for a M8 X 1.25 bolt. We have seen them back out causing disengagement issues and our pressure plate does have a higher clamp load than the OE pressure plate. Because of these reasons, we do recommend a higher torque (25 ft./lbs.) over the OE for the pressure plate fastening hardware.

Yes, you will have to remove the release lever shaft. If you do not, you will not be able to lift up the release lever to free it from the bearing which is attached to the pressure plate. If you do not free the fork from the bearing, you won’t be able to remove the transmission.

Any tips on how to remove it? I got the screw in there already but i cant free it.

@@FMCWIZZI Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove it. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again.

Thank you!!

Check to make sure that at the top of the transmission the transmission wire harness and ground have been reconnected. You can refer to our video @ 02:21. If they are connected, then check the backup lamp switch on the transmission itself.

The ACT clutch kits for this application is a pull-style just like the OEM. It is not a push-type conversion.

Ultimately we would recommend replacing them. There’s nothing worse than getting everything back to together only to have an exhaust leak!

The release bearing we include with our kits for the STi is designed to meet or exceed the OEM build quality.

Is the vibration only happening when the vehicle is moving? If you place it in neutral and rev it throughout the rpm range, does it vibrate then? If the answer is yes for the first question and no for the second question; this would mean that it is something in the drive train. While the drive shaft is balanced from the factory, we have experienced vibration when installing them with the markings not lined up. This is why we usually mark them ourselves during disassembly and then install them lining the marks up. Also, something else to look as it the center bearing of the drive shaft. If that is worn in even the slightest manner, vibration can result. Lastly, check all motor and transmission mounts, if any of them are worn or loose, this may also cause vibrations.

@@paxtondirk8826 had motor and transmission mounts replaced a month ago. and yes when revving in neutral car is perfect no vibrations. only when moving. i actually have it in the shop now and having them line up the driveshaft properly

@@BCyyGaming Let us know if this fixes the vibration issue.

@@AdvancedClutchTechnology yes everything is back! i know the shop personally they let me come out and look while it was on the lift. he was showing me the slight play the carrier bearing but said it was normal . otherwise it wouldn’t soak up the vibrations . marks are lined up and feeling good!

@@BCyyGaming That's great! Let us know if you have any other questions.

So if anyone else runs into the same situation as me the 2020 sti dose not have a clutch return spring !! Also the mounting for the trans mission case is a little bit different!!

If you are referring to the return spring at the top of the transmission connecting to the shift fork, from the research we have done, it looks like the the return spring was equipped on all 2004 and up Sti models. The OEM part number is 30546AA060. There should also be a bracket for the spring to install to also on top of the transmission The OEM part number for the bracket is 30548AA010.

Our SB11 kit is a conversion kit which must be used with our lightweight flywheel. It is not compatible with the OEM flywheel.

The process is similar for all STI’s from 2004-2021.

@@AdvancedClutchTechnologyrelease lever shaft is not moving no matter what I do to it. Install the bolt in it and have tried for 4 hours and nothing

@@AutoExpectations Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove the shaft. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again. Attached is a link from another youtuber removing the shaft from the engine compartment. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i5alqK2D0bCsfGQ.html

@@AdvancedClutchTechnology I tried everything listed and then some. Ended up breaking the bolt I screwed in lol. So white flag was raised it's at a shop now getting fix

I just used this and had no problems whatsoever. You must not work on modern cars. This is easy 😂

@@michaelvento9598 I work on all my vehicles including diesels.....mainly foreign cars do stupid stuff like this