i hate those williston vids for that reason, i used to watch him but he got annoying.

Glad I could help!

I am definitely at fault for this one.

Idk when you get around that 180-200$ there's quite a few solid options. IMO it comes down to your preference and warranty/customer service. I'd prob take the Recoil 2500

I bought this on sale a couple months ago for $149

Yup that stinker 2k is definitely bumping and it has more to go than what my car can feed it lol. If I turn it up too much it muffles the bass my cars interior lights all dim the poor alternator is only rated for 80amps 😂 race car package technically they intended this car to be the lightest of all models so I’ll need to get the standard model alternator which is good for around 200 amps lol

I'm trying to find a few Marts amps

One or both of u didn't major in math.

That was a HARD clip.

until they blow

@@chuckholmes2075get ‘em chuck

@@chuckholmes2075 never had 1 blow or even heard of 1 blowing this dyno video was the first.

@@joshTheAudioGuy good for you. Sorry you’re broke and can’t afford a real amp..

​@@chuckholmes2075Dude, why you gotta hate on someone. You don't know that person. People like you give car audio a bad name. SMH.

You can't get an accurate reading on the uncertified and dynamic with basic clamp meters. He would rather remove the meter than confuse people with the wrong readings. To get accurate measurements you'd need a much more expensive test rig and probably shunt style measurement devices.

Basically what he said. In certified mode, I get voltage, wattage, and current all locked in at the same moment (when red light comes on and dyno stops reading). In Uncertified with the dyno showing peak numbers, using the clamp would be inaccurate/difficult to time readings properly.

what are you smoking dude? is this the first Amp Dyno you've ever seen? THIS AMP IS TRASH!!! the real world is more harsh than a resistive load. They're 1000's of lesser and better amps that pass the DD1 with flying colors and no burnt flying FETS

There was nothing demonstrated there that says solid. LOL! You must work for them. Made in China means zero tolerance to stress. Wouldn’t buy this amp. If it was the only option available.

@@guysgt5003 did you watch the entire vid? Did you hear what FK said? Lol, why do you mental midgets procreate ?

Dude every dumb new booty person out there full tilts everything what u mean the average person hahahahhahahahaha even professionals full tilt shit or what’s the fun in it

Heck yeah I love nvx their wire kits are some of the best I use I install for a living and I recommend it to every client.

Definitely was not a battery issue, I support up to around 15k with my bench setup.

If only this one had the coating, maybe it'd have made it!

@@Facekicker lol I sense sarcasm 😂 fine I should have said a metal bass knob with clip Indicator

Do you mean the same as in the basic board layout?

This isn't a full bridge and the topology really has nothing to do with it. The "soundigital" boards you speak of is actually Chinese clones OF the soundigital amps. Clip an amp like this and you're going to be in for a smelly good time!

@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 I've clipped a smart 3 a couple of times over (during tuning and testing)and the worst thing I've had happen is it went into protect and never came out. That was my mistake and I've learned after that. And yeah I forgot to mention the Chinese copy part but it's still around the same design nonetheless with a slightly weaker protection circuitry system. Also just realized I've mistaken this for the XAD 😂😂

@@kyletimmins7331 smart 3s are beasts! They are super easy to fix too! They always burn the power trace on the bottom of the board. Out of the 4 I've gotten blown, I've put $0.00 in to fix them. One was reverse polarity, one was ran on poor electrical, one the dude left playing on a 40Hz tone for like 50min on a battery not hooked up to a sub he forgot about it..... the other IDK but trace! 😂

@@kyletimmins7331 oh but he was wired at .8 resistive load not reactive and he was certainly letting it eat and pushing his luck ... he was the first to admit it ... I can't believe the aluminum fet hold downs went like that! This is just a Hifionics amp, which aren't terrible quality but they just don't last. No idea why but anything over 1000watts from Hifionics has an end of life timer I swear. The good old days when I didn't need 10k watts in my daily! 😂

@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 oh yeah they are beastly for sure! I currently run a smart 5 now on an Avatar SVL 15. Gonna be upgrading to a smart 8 once the sub's broken in more.

Any amp that smokes on a Dyno isn't made good. Idc what you say. If it's gonna smoke on the Dyno it's gonna smoke in your car

​@@JMoneyBassHeadThat's not accurate at all. The amp dyno's use resistive loads so its an exact number. A speaker is considered a reactive load meaning the resistance is constantly changing based on the frequency. 1 ohm resistive is much more stress than 1 ohm reactive. Keep in mind that when wiring a sub to one ohm you have whats called box rise or impedance rise. The amp will never see that 1 ohm load, it will always be higher. The amp might see 1.5 to 3 ohm at the very lowest and at only certain frequencies. The rest of the time the resistance is higher like 5, 10, 20 ohms. You would also need to have the amp maxed out as it played its lowest resistive frequency. This is why amps last decades. Assuming you don't clip it, drop copper strands in it, overheat it or feed it too low of voltage. Those are the things that kill amps. In order to duplicate what happened to this amp you need to wire a load down to like 0.3 ohm and max out the power. Some people do this and blow amps. These people are taking the risk. It's on them. This is why the manufacturer tells you how low to wire the amp. If it says 1 ohm stable, they only guarantee to that load. I hope that makes sense. 👍

plenty sense

Well, to be honest, it's a fake Dino. It's a stupid test instrument and it's a simulation. It's never real, so we can't really ever count on these gadgets that are full of gimmick that nobody in the electronics business will ever touch. This thing is a magic box, gimmick trick. And this guy manages to get people to buy his box. That is so basic and create some benchmark for the world of testing amplifiers. And it's all bogus, it's a very basic.

Good to know, I'm a noob with amps

Generally the fets close to the power input are going to be all related to the power supply side of the amp.

​@@JasonWW2000 I knew that, but at the time of recording I just got it backwards. Distracted by the fireworks.

then you better baby it. this what has happened right here.... HAPPENS A LOT!!!! in the real world

@@chuckholmes2075 I have it wired to .5 ohm and it gets down. I don’t baby anything and it’s a great sound amp for the price I actually paid

@@chuckholmes2075tell ‘em chucky

Just don't wire it below 0.5 load. 1 ohm DC is probably best as the amp will never get down to a 1 ohm AC load.

@@JasonWW2000 with box rise it’ll never see .5 ohm

Yeah i knew it was clipping but was watching the wattage instead... Usually the numbers stop climbing if it's going south but this time they just kept going up.

I really wouldn't expect that, unless you clipped it hard for 10sec straight like I did

​​@@FacekickerPlus wired it down super low.

Just a note, it was the power supply fets that burnt. Yeah, those aluminum clamps got seriously hot!

The amp did do good, and I take full credit for killing it this time 🤷 But it always gets misinterpreted one way or another 🤦

1 ohm resistive. Quite a bit more harsh than 1 ohm on a speaker.