You're so welcome!

no problem! please check back into the channel!

ese pin se tiene que aliniar y se abre al darle en circulo al crank.

@@2zzlow gracias estan muy lentos contectando las pregunta,ya lo aregle,soy fan de los toyotas 2zz-ge 🇵🇷✌️

I frequent San Jose but stay in the Central Valley

yea buddy!

@@2zzlow Are you able to confirm if the metal impeller water pump is an updated version?

not at all

Yes I know, I didn't say it was for the water pump itself. I don't have the part number for the water pump itself sorry.

Okay there’s so much confusion about these water pump that I just went through. There is the 16100-29146 that’s suppose to come with two shorter replacements bolts of the bolts with the threads all the way to the head. These bolts are shorter. And there’s 16100-29145 that do not require the updated shorter bolts and you can use the original bolts from the original water pump. Apparently where the two special bolts with all the threads to the head, the spacing from the original water pump is not there for the 16100-29156. I have a 03 matrix xrs 171,000 miles. I wonder if anyone else experienced this.

broaden your search maybe look into the Corolla xrs, Pontiac vibe or celica gts for those 6 speed transmissions.

@@2zzlow yes that's what I've been looking for. When I don't need one they're all over the salvage yards. At the asking price for a used one I could buy a wrecked mr2 and convert it.

just dabs or fipg is fine. and yea the exhaust manifold has to be unbolted from the engine

@@2zzlow youd think they could’ve made that metal pipe wrap up higher sort of in front of the valve cover instead of the timing cover. What a pain in the ass. What’s weird, is I can’t find anything relating to the exhaust manifold in the Toyota factory manual. Nothing.

They were all reliable. Just take good care of them and you can easily get them past 300k miles

hit me up on Instagram

i reuse exhaust manifold gasket. the bottom right bolt has lock tite from factory, i just put it back on with the original lock tite. try to torque in a star pattern to relive the stress from one end to another.

@@2zzlow Once I'm ready to reinstall cover with seal packing do I need to get all bolts including engine mount and water pump installed before seal packing starts to setup. Also just wanted to make sure that the engine mount bolts are indeed 36ft pounds. Not sure what this job would cost at the dealer but I called my local shop just for water pump and they wanted $400. They also said water pump would include metal impeller over the plastic like that was an upgrade.

Maybe one day!

There’s a flywheel tool for this or have someone hood the crank from the crank pulley bolt while you torque them

ouch!

Good stuff

How much

@@abel3619 must have been a lot

@@DericCribbs yea would be nice if people actually fucking responded with the numbers

@@abel3619 if you actually need to know a current legit estimate I use the Mitchell1 pro demand software now as a baseline to my estimates. I'll get you the current amount although the stealership is likely higher. And wil you'll have to pay them again if they mess it up

its most likely old rtv and you are confusing as paste, was it the motor mount bolt going through the block? blue loctite should be fine if it makes you feel better i used a wire brush on the water pump area because it was corrosive from the coolant leaking from it. i doubt a scotch brite scrubby would do anything.

It was the bottom right bolt on the timing cover itself. I just used the blue loctite I had. Just finished the job today and man what a job I think I spent more time cleaning everything. Your content is awesome dude you saved me big time. I just have one last question. Can you replace the serpentine belt tensioner pulley and not the whole thing. I cleaned mine with purple power and it was a little rough to turn and now its making a whirling sound. I hate to drop $200 on the whole thing if I can just replace the pulley for 20 or 30 bucks.

Lmao cleaning for sure takes up way too much time. The pulley can be replaced but it may need a special socket to get the bolt off.

thanks fam

Y donde las compras ayudame con eso que te recompensare por todo. Gracias

en la description del video estan los numeros de partes.

can be stuck open or closed. it can either not reach operating temperature or overheat.

the danger is because the timing chain tensioner is off, we dont want the chain to skip a tooth or timing will be off.

@@2zzlow well yeah….I realize it’s slacked because no chain tensioner…but your not rotating the engine or anything until you put the tensioner back in…so I guess I’m just curious as to why there’s the danger of skipping a tooth. I guess better safe than sorry. Also…I guess it’s just good practice to line up the timing marks before you even begin? Just trying to wrap my head around the “whys” of some if this stuf lol

@@AmeriFanPicker the force of the valve springs act almost directly on the cam lobes because no oil pressure is required for the lifters which are solid mechanical "shim to adjust", could also be described as a flat tappet camshaft. If the valve train spring load was unbalance and or at the fulcrum of peak lift it can rotate the camshaft a quarter turn "quicker than you can blink". You will have to retime the valve train, which isn't the end of the world but will cost you some time. This isn't going to hurt the valve train or Pistons but you're going to think that it has and to be paranoid about your motor for a while. If I had to guess I'd say I've had it happen to me on about a third of the timing chains I replaced that I didn't use some sort of tool to hold them in place. The price for some of these timing tools is ridiculous and the zip tie does just as good a job for Dollar store money. I know what you mean about needing to understand the why for all of the individual steps of a mechanical repair as I have seen small steps that do not matter and should be skipped along with the small step that can cause you a major headache if you don't follow a procedure. You take some Tylenol and fix the car anyway.

@@DericCribbs thanks for the detailed info. Much appreciated. Fwiw I replaced my chain tensioner and o ring last year and did it with the valve cover on etc so I didn’t do the zip tie thing. Maybe it’s more of a risk when the crank pulley is off?

@@AmeriFanPicker yeah I wouldn't tie them for that. It would take longer to pull off the valve cover and throw the zip ties on them than to change the tensioner o-ring.

del junk yard el motor

head is designed by Yamaha