The problem is I have a lot of issues, I just can't run the camera every day. :)

Thanks, will do! Any vids you'd like to see that I haven't done yet?

No kidding. Every time I move to the next project I come to this channel to see how it’s done. Great job documenting!

i have a similar issue on my 49 studebaker ,all drum brakes . master does not completely release and brake drums overheat then lock up . i did have to change my push rod when i completely redid my restoration of my brakes . when i did that i did make an adjustable push rod to do what you did, when i got this car it did not have a master cylinder . this has been a true trial and error process. i think i may be able to tweek rod length to correct my locking up issue . every thing is new shoes to master . this has been driving me silly. thanks

Thanks! 1000 is getting closer every day! Awesome, I was hoping you'd get it before the weekend. Congrats again on the win!

You and me both!

Awesome, I hope this helps! Other issues I'm still working with is the brake bias valve, possibly needing to re-bleed (just in case), and wondering if the 1" MC I purchased from CJ Pony is the size I should have, or get a smaller unit. But, that's ok, we're checking items off the list!!

Awesome, good luck!! 🙂

I was just about to comment the same thing lol, beat me to it haha

Correct, I had to replace that little white piece on my first '66, but I forgot all about it until you mentioned it. However, the "slop" I had in my peddle movement would not have been solved by that piece, but it would have helped. In the end I would have still needed to make the push rod longer to get the peddle to sit flush with the clutch peddle. Now, whether or not those peddles are supposed to be flush is another discussion. :)

That's good to hear there's more people out there that know about this little parts. :)

Yes sir Ernie! Two little plastic white ones and a black plastic bushing for the eyelet of the push rod outside facing to driverside..

Great! 😁

That might work, I don't know. This is an old video, and I've upgrade lots of parts since then. :)

No problem!

See, we sort of did the same thing to get essentially the same final result. There's always more than one way to fix issues with our cars. Congrats!

I'll keep that in mind as I work through replacing parts on my new car. :)

I think my biggest issue was the bracket that was installed between the MC and the firewall moved the MC out the subtlest amount, making it a farther throw than normal. :)

I don't know of an improvement of manual brakes over power brakes in terms of performance. I prefer the feel of manual brakes and the "feedback" they give as I use them during spirited driving. :)

Good to know. :)

After using the generic MC from CJP for nearly a year now, I'd choose a different product next time. In fact, I've had my eyes on a Wilwood MC to replace what I have. I like the fact that it's the same manufacturer as my disc setup, but I also like the compact design and the brake adjustment option when compared to what I have. I'd check out Wilwood, maybe even hit up their customer service and ask them what bore size would be good for your setup. You may want a 15/16" bore, but I bet the Wilwood guys would know exactly what you need. Good luck! :)

Thanks! I’ll call them up!

It did fix part of the issues I'm having. But I also only have my newish truck and newish Wife's car for braking comparison right now, so they could be fine for all I know. The peddle travel is better, that's for sure. I may still need to re-bleed the system (just in case) and I've still got to figure out the distribution valve and make sure I'll got it dialed to the correct front/rear split.

The bolt is harder than the push rod that was in there. I looked into moving the bracket, but the bracket didn't fit as well on the "engine" side of the MC as it did behind the MC (the firewall side). Eventually I want to replace all of that stuff with a Wilwood MC and separately mounted proportioning valve. This would allow for the stock push rod to go back in place. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Sounds good. Great job!

I believe the part you are referring to helps keep the push rod inside the master cylinder and not allow it to fall out. With the adjusted length of the new push rod, the end of the rod is bottomed out in the MC, sort of eliminating the need for the clippy-thing on the end. Now, if that's the right way to do it is a different conversation. ;)

No, but I wouldn't anyways because a graded bolt matters in tension and shear, not compression, which is the stress the Pushrod sees when being used. :)

Good to know.

It was a universal style piece, from Ebay. Unfortunately I don't have a part number for it. :)

Someone could paint there MC if they wanted, but my current MC is already painted. 🙂

Very subtly. The rod length needed to be extended because the plate for the brake bias adjustment unit moved the M.C. away from the firewall, making the push rod not long enough. So in the end it was better, but talking to Wilwood afterwards solved the majority of my braking problems. I needed to add their 10 lb residual valve since I'm using disc fronts and drum rears. For the record, those guys at Wilwood are great to work with. I explained my problems and they had several solutions and they were happy to give that info to me. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Awesome. I will give them a shout. I just put wilwood discs on the front of my 66 and the performance was a bit of a fizzle compared to the drums. I was a bit surprised, I was expecting more. I also have the slop in the brake pedal and it sits lower to the floor just like yours, thats why I was so curious. Thanks for the response! I really enjoy your videos, they have helped me tons while I have been rebuilding. You just got a sub from me! Keep it up

@@judoguy33 Awesome, thanks for the feedback! I suspect you're having the same issue as I did. I'd give Wilwood a call first, just to make sure. Naturally they'll want to sell their products, but their knowledge surrounding our cars and the functionality of the disc upgrade is second to none. At a very minimum you'll come away with some great knowledge. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel " I needed to add their 10 lb residual valve since I'm using disc fronts and drum rears" Would you mind elaborating on this? I am working through this sloppy break pedal issue as well. I had a local place do my disc upgrade, I suspect CJ Pony parts, however I hated them and swapped for Wilwoods rotor and calipers but still have the crap MC & power booster. Thank you. Your video's are very helpful, like the dad I never had.

@@jmac1975 The MC should be sized for the brake system you have (3/4" or 7/8" bore kind of thing) to make sure you start off on the correct foot. I don't know which size you need for your application, but the guys at Wilwood can help with that. Then, if you're finding that the MC is correct but the rear drum brakes don't seem to do enough work, you can add the 10 lb residual valve that aids with the pressure the rear drums will see. The guys at Wilwood can explain this better than me, but that's the highlight reel. :)

Slugs are kinda squishy, not sure they're work. :)

Yeah, it's not for everyone. :)