Thank you for sharing. If that is your choice of career, you are in the right track.

Dont think you have demonstrated RP618 dial indicating properly. The method of checking the endplay is as follows: Grasp the wheel assy at the 3/9 oclock positions. Push the wheel assy in / out while oscillating slightly to seat the bearings. Seems like the student was applying veritcal movement vs in/out

Don’t ever let the the hub hang like that before putting the bearing in. Gently slide the hub on with the outside bearing in place already. This way the seal will not become damaged as the hub is not hanging on it.

The older style seals (national 37 series) with an internal wear surface and rubber with a backing spring can stand a little play but 1/4 turn backed off is going to exceed that. 38 series with lay down lip teflon will take a lot more, but nationals recommended procedure is 200 while rotating, back off 1 turn then 50 while rotating adjust as little as possible for washer to fit then everything you have on the lock nut. Torque is lower on a steer axle. I started doing it this way 40 years ago and haven't lost a bearing yet. Except I wasn't using a torque wrench (but verified with one since, just a 3/4 ratchet.

Like it was a good demonstration

nicely done. @mister nighbane the seal appears to be hub mounted and when did he slam it oh the spindle. Its Within spec and its gonna last 2-300k miles as long as it's freeplay is within spec, it has a clean sealing surface on the spindle shoulder & wasnt damaged during installation IT'LL BE JUST FINE !!!

Thank you, awesome video!!!

Look relatively easy. .. my hub on the left is a Lil loose does that mean new bearings or just tighten them???

where did you put the axle shaft??? boot

Is that preload the same for new bearings as for bearings that have been in service?

I shoot for zero tolerance or just barely hand tight.Torque to 200,spin it like 10 times.Back it off till you can turn the spindle nut by hand.Re tighten the spindle nut down untill it barely touches the bearings.Lock it down and check for end play I want none.Re seating new bearings will wear a little in the races and free up in a week.Re check them in a month.Good to go for 1 mil miles.I have the crush preventing cone type hubs.I also make sure I turn the spindle nut by hand tightening after seating until I hear the lock tabs click in place.

One mistake, never let that hub lean down like that before outside bearing is installed, that will cause premature seal failure, otherwise the student did a great job

After doing wheel bearing over 30 years I never used a torque wrench to do bearings ...Zero lash is the key......preload if you wish but zero lash is where it's at.....

Did you drop the wheel nearing while removing the hub you should be more careful that could cost you a lot of money

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Hate to critize someone's else's work publicly but there's no need of rotating the hub while preloading or doing final torque, also in my opinion your inner bearing was installed the wrong way, any I've ever done have had the tapered side pointing out not in, common procedure is torque to 200 for preload, slack off 1/4 turn, torque to 50 pounds and slack off 1 10th of a turn. Don't take my criticism the wrong way, also if you do have all the specs right in front of you, of course follow them. I just think the inner bearing was installed backwards, good work best of luck in the future!

outside of letting the hub hang on the seal, he did it right. The naysayer commenters here are THE reason I learned of the existence of Axle Surgeons 35 miles after a trip to an outfit that did what the naysayers suggest.

no wonder all these seals leak from the dealer when you purchase a new trailer or tractor this is all wrong ,come to my shop and let me teach you how its done ,you do not need no movements on trailer wheel bearing ,they cannot even set the pre set hubs correctly, when i reset them they never leak for about 5 years

Poor dog I liked my own commet how sad.