By not setting droop first your shocks total stroke isn’t correct meaning your shocks at full extension could have more or less pack which will effect the ride height. Unless your ride height or camber is dramatically off it doesn’t really matter which you do first. A half degree of camber in or out will effect ride height very little. I do recommend setting your steering rack center and your toe measurements matching before setting camber and ride height so you start from an even baseline. As you adjust any of these for the most precise settings you’ll have to check each multiple times as you work through the process though.

Yes, of course! Out of the 3 we discuss here droop will be the only one that is super specific car to car depending on shock tower heights and shock lengths but for camber generally anywhere -1 to -2 is pretty standard depending on the surface. I personally use -2 on my vehicle to help get the car to rotate more in the rear and be less grabby on bumps and on the front this will increase steering response as the car rolls through the turn which will make more contact patch with the tire. The opposite happens when taking out camber to go to -1, the steering is smoother and the rear end is more stable throughout the turn but can grab ruts easier on the track. As for ride height it is very common to have whats called ‘rake’ in the car. This means the front is lower than the rear which will add steering response to the car and help move the weight to the front of the vehicle under braking. A very common ride height setting is to have 1 to 2mm difference front to back and on an outdoor track I would start at 25mm in the front and 27mm in the back. I hope this is helpful for you but to make a quick recap - Camber should be set anywhere negative 1 to 2 degrees, ride height should be set slightly lower in the front compared to rear and should start at 25mm front and 27mm rear