you could be right, I feel like they didn't give her enough credit throughout the climb. Easy for me to say though now that I know she won, before knowing the result one might think she was struggling

I wonder if 2023 finals was specifically designed to favor Janja

racist white supremacy supporter.

I've noticed the same. She really doesn't get the credit she deserves. I'm really not an expert, but it does seem like Mori is better than Janja on the comp lead routes.

@@hermannwigers8321 It's not that I contend that Ai-san is better, but over the last two lead competitions she has beat Janja. My issue is that the IFSC appear to think that Janja is the second coming and all the other female climbers are just extra's, to make up the numbers. This, Ai-san's second consecutive win over Janja in lead was framed by IFSC commentator as Janja having lost, having not clipped the last quick draw in the semi finals, rather than that Ai-san, who is 7 years Janja's junior, so less experienced in competition and much smaller in stature, beat Janja due to being the best and most consistent climber through qualifications, semi final and final.

thats true dude! Didnt think of it that way.

@@BoulderingHighlights Even the captions on this video do not do Ai-san Justice. Caption 1. "Off to a shakey start". She is 5ft exactly, so she needs to be measured and precice on sequences more suited to taller climbers. I do not see a "shakey" start but rather her on siting a beta that she thinks will suit her style better. Second caption, "Climbing too careful, too hesitant". Same as above. I watch this tiny young woman climb and am amazed by her ability to route read and on site her beta on the fly, by her strength, her endurance, her flexability, her ability to hold the smallest of crimps. She held a hold close to the top with just two fingers ffs. The speed she climbed the top section at, being aware of her remaining time was superb to me to watch. Akiyo-san has a KZfaq channel with some of the Japese male climbers and in one of the videos they invite Ai-san to a climbing competition and she climbs against Tomoa. They take it in turns and Ai-san climbs 8 consecutive routes and looks as good on the 8th as on the first. Tomoa could hardly use his hands on the 7th climb and fell off on the 8th. I have watched videos of Japanese climbing comps from 2014/2015 where Ai-san is only 10/11 and looks even smaller than she is today and she is still absolutely amazing, still really strong and tenacious, never giving up. Janja is a great climber and it is clear the amount of work she puts in. I watched her climb a chimney stack with a friend and was in awe. My issue is not with Janja but with the way the IFSC commentate her climbs towards the way they comment on the other women climbers.

true always felt a little awkward when the commentators just assumed that janja gonna win every comp after janja’s having that great season but in fact ai and seo did a really good job on the lead walls it’s not like they’re better than janja. it’s a competition and they all did a really great job. Also, ai really nailed the higher part of the wall. they just have different skills set and are good at different styles

Well said! It's an art

Yup youre right! exciting to see top athletes pushing each other :D

Wow so jealous! I'd love to see it live. How was the entire experience from the audience view?

She just doesn't smile in front of new people. She often smile in front of people close to her and Japanese climbers.

Omg nooo morioka is in Japan?

@@BoulderingHighlights Morioka is located in the Tohoku region of northern Japan.

:O where did you get this info? :D

or at least much quieter

You're right haha

They only do count back if there's a tie. Just like this final because both Janja and Ai topped the route. So they use the semifinal result to break the tie.

@@devratnasari Why can’t they break the tie with whoever climbed up the route the fastest?

@@MarkCrimper because lead climbing isn’t supposed to be about speed. It’s about finishing the route, rather than climbing it as fast as you can (because that’s speed climbing). They only refer to the time if there’s no other way to separate them. For example if they are both topped all 4 routes in final, semi final, and quails. Only combined format (like last Olympics) use time as a tie breaker immediately. If you watch IFSC Lead in Chamonix 2019. They have 5 people with the same score during final: Chaeyeon Seo, YeuTong Zang, Jessi Pilz, Ai Mori, and Ashima Shiraishi 😓 and it was decided by countback too. Horrible because all 5 have the same score as gold medalist. But that’s just how the sport has been. I’m sure there are a lot more examples of this.

@@devratnasari Thank you for the clarification. That makes total sense. Tough break for the climbers.

I much prefer to watch an artist. Like I much prefer watching Federer play tennis than Nadal or Djokovic. It’s not just about numbers but the experience and the joy of watching poetry in motion. I don’t even climb myself. 😂. Yet Ai Mori is the only climber who has captivated my attention and I revel in watching her climb. Looking forward to seeing her climb in Paris. 🎉

Trueee

It's kinda nice then than a more complete athlete couldn't beat Ai.

No. That’s not how it works. When time is up, your next move wont be counted. Just like how on the previous competition Ai Mori was the only climber to topped both routes in qualification. But she run out of time on one of the route, so they only awarded Ai Mori 1 top. Even tho she topped both. If you can’t top the route within 6 mins limit, then it wouldn’t be counted as a top. Simple. With that logic, Ai Mori is the only competitor to officially topped ALL 4 routes during this competition. Definitely deserved that gold.

@@devratnasari yeah, thats true, but I also feel like it takes the excitement and pressure from the finals when one person cannot win. Janja could have ran up the Final route and it would not have gotten her anywhere. As a consequence, I would prefer either the time in finals being prioritized above countback or maybe somehow setup a calculation which includes time spent & countback etc. After all, all those problems in this case came from the routes being way to easy, its just not funny anymore when 2 people top every route and a third tops 3/4 routes. That just shows the problem in the womens field - Janja and Ai Mori are just miles above the competition, the only one who can consistently try to compete is Seo.

@@vorlostzurab7653 There is a sport where speed is the deciding factor, funnily enough it's called speed climbing ;)

​@@vorlostzurab7653 yeah cuz lead climbing is totally about speed and not technique 🥱🥱🥱