Thanks Johannes! Welcome to the channel :)

@@undeniablySomeGuy "this guy" happening to be Tomoa Narasaki

she already is :)

She was amazing at national comps but I always wondered why she never went to ifsc events

@@BoulderingHighlights too young prolly

@@BoulderingHighlights focusing on school

She is making me fired just watching

She's an inspiration to all heights too

Welcome cloud! Feel free to ask anything :)

Your lucky

Really? lol thanks though. What makes you think so

@@BoulderingHighlights solid analysis, consistent posting, genuine interest in comp climbing. On top of that providing IFSC clips even though you may get copyright strikes. It's good stuff, you're analysis of Ai Mori helped me win a local comp today.

It's just my bedroom haha 😄

yeah, nicely done and really informative. Great stuff

There is an abrupt jump at 12:48 though, it cuts and we don't see her go through that specific bit

@@HelloBrother22 thanks man

@@HelloBrother22 oo yea thanks for pointing out

never been so excited about a climber before haha, looking forward to next year and olympics

That's an interesting point thanks for bringing it up!

both things are true. tall climbers have a much much higher moment of inertia, so when he says they "suffer from barn-door" it is really just saying that their body positioning has to be much more precise than shorter climbers. because the torque of gravity is so much higher, and usually they can't get the body position to apply more torque using their larger frame, and have to simply pull much harder to generate the same stabilizing torque. as you stated sometimes this is not the case, but for the most part, at the gym you will see tall climbers barn door when short climbers can just climb straight up. they are forced into a particular technique as a result of their size. the fact that ai mori doesn't have to be as precise with body position is precisely why she's such an incredible and unique climber. she is less able to reach for holds, but she has more options available in terms of body position, and she uses optimized body positions that would not be possible for a taller climber. the advantage of reach is very straightforward, but the advantage of being small can be very subtle.

Sick! Thanks for the insight 👍 So you prefer using no edge shoes on slopey footholds? How does it feel on positive but small footholds?

@@BoulderingHighlights I also feel safer on positive small footholds with the Genius. On volumes I so far prefer my Kubo, but have to admit I haven't really done a direct comparison for that. And now thinking about it I should do that, and already have a fitting boulder in mind. In general I can definitely say I'm very happy with the genius, they step up my footwork-game compared to the Kubo, which I also like a lot.

Thanks! What aspects did you like about this? I'm trying to improve my vids

@@BoulderingHighlights 1. You show your face alongside the climbing footage, which helps viewers connect with you. 2. You interact directly with the footage, draw and teach on top of it, making each lesson more concrete and applicable. 3. You speak articulately and precisely about techniques and accurately time your speaking with the footage so that we hear and see what you refer to at the same time, which again, solidifies the learning. 4. You pick a topic and storyline that is truly remarkable, in the most objective way: one of the shortest, most static climbers getting to the top of two disciplines in a sport that is all about locomotion and covering vast, risky distances quickly. Almost unthinkable, and you break down solid reasons as to why. 5. My "constructive criticism" is that I think you're wrong about advanced climbers not needing your content. Though I've just been climbing for a few months and am literally the most beginner of beginners, I strongly believe from learning other artistic, sporting, and high-skill disciplines - that a piece of advice is NEVER too basic if you ask yourself, "ok, so I know I KNOW this, but do I apply it? And if I apply it, do I apply it 100% of the time, in 100% of circumstances? And if I do apply it 100% of the time, can I teach it? And if I can teach it, can I teach it with excellence 100% of the time, in 100% of circumstances, to anyone? I think the root of excellence is to learn and re-learn from the same basic advice over and over again, seeing it new lights used in different ways. To me that's the pure joy of the learning process, especially in climbing. For example, COG in BOS, triangles, securing weight shift and best weight distribution before moving BOS...everyone "knows" this, and a lot of people already "do it". Since I love technique, I can apply these on easy climbs even with little experience. But to see Ai Mori do it when you know how tough her terrain is and just how short she is compared to the competition, and get your analysis on it real time, it's just that you see what you "know" applied on such a different level, to the point where you ask yourself, "did I even know it in the first place"? Can I "know it as well as she does, in every sense? Anyways, now I'm rambling because this stuff is so interesting to me. Keep up the good work!

In addition, the effectiveness of your storytelling with the footage, got me for the first time doing my own analysis inspired by what I saw here: what are the OTHER subtle things she does to gain extra "effective height and reach" on the wall? Looking closely, I can see just how much she is reaching for every position, after already perfecting her body angle, position and technique. Her toes are barely on the footholds, and sometimes she can only reach the handholds by a fingerpad or two. I saw once that she agressively internally rotates her wrist to get purchase on the next hand hold while her entire body is already stretched to the max. As someone who's not short, but has short limbs and limited mobility for now, I can feel just how hard those positions must have felt for her when she was training them. So this actually lit a fire under my belly to embrace the discomfort and the feeling of risk in these fully stretched out positions in my own training. I used to get frustrated when taller and longer friends could get their whole hand around a hold with their dropknee and I could barely get a fingertip on before falling off, even though my hip was already against the wall. But now I see it as an opportunity to just be better, to be even stronger stretched out, more coordinated with the fingers, more comfortable with ever smaller bases of support in the fingers and toes. People often comment on her monumental finger strength, and I now believe that her extra finger strength comes from facing all the adversities from an early start, where she would have needed that extra finger strength, mobility, and ease of moving COG on "easy climbs" to keep up with everyone else. I do think her height has made her face more adversities more often while climbing, forced her to be more creative, and in the end has given her this incredible competition ability to just push to the limit of her length (and strength). I do think this applies to other climbers too, with more unique body types. It's made me realize that as someone with shorter limbs, the slower, somewhat embarrassing progress through reachy moves taht are supposed to be easy, is going to help me in the long run to be a better climber and to not plateau. So yeah, lots of insights and motivation just from one video!

Thanks so much! Really appreciate the insight Crystal! I'll definitely make more of this type of content moving forward. I'm also thinking if starting a second channel

@@BoulderingHighlights cool! for what

Yes is specialised so it's personal preference I believe. But I heard its the same shape as worn out shoes that have turned soft but with brand new sticky rubber

Well she also didn't compete in many others :) if at all.

I thought she won 3 golds in 2022? Koper (lead), Edinburgh (lead) and Morioka (combined). She wasn’t competing in any of the others because of school.

she won a world cup. that's perfectly fine click baiting.

Can you guys do any BETTER???????

Welcome back devi :) KZfaq being weird on my channel as usual haha best way is to put notifications on

Thank you, and yes will do!