The part of the video mentioning the compressor lock up on short cycle has been solved. When I bought a new pressure switch it was slightly different even though it was the same model number so I had to move a few pieces and parts around. I forgot to move a little tiny lever that flips and bleeds the line after the compressor shuts off.

Finally, someone test the before and after temps. thanks!

So I made essentially this same setup, I have an IR compressor(175psi). But instead of running a single filter after the Derale radiator I ran a 3 stage Nanpu set from Amazon. Filter, coalescing then desiccant dryer then into the tank. Within 3 seconds of turning it out the 1st filter stage of the Nanpu blew apart. Looks like three of the metal lugs holding the bowl cannister on had just sheared off. The cannister flew down and smashed into the floor with all the plastic parts busting everywhere. Dented the metal cannister also and a small piece of something had flown by my head. I think it was one of the lugs. My first thought was that the nanpu, which I'm sure is cheap chinese pot metal, had a stress fracture in it. My second thought was that having all three stages inline created to much back pressure and the 1st stage gave way. I am using 1/2" NPT so the lines are big enough. It was probably a combo of those two items. My goal was to have the air as dry as possible going into the tank. But when I replumb it I think I'll go with just a 1st stage filter/regulator and put the coalescing and desiccant filters after the tank. Also, posted this as a warning to anyone else trying it. Take precautions when starting it up the first time with any modifications, like turning it on from the break far away from the compressor! ha.

Great job mate 👍 Good to see someone actually using a fan to move air effectively over the cooler. Very tidy install.

I’ve been looking at videos on adding a cooler/condensor to my 8 hp , 16.4 cfm 115 psi petrol compressor and out of all the videos I’ve seen so far( 4 or 5 ) this is the best and neatest installation I’ve seen... nicely done !!!

Wow! that looks like the amount of water that will be coming out of my compressor. I have a 7.5 horsepower compressor that is huge. It also has a 300 gallon tank. It was used by an auto body and paint shop and it really puts out a ton of air. I have converted Harbor freight sandblaster and a vapor honing cabinet . I actually had to stop using them because of the amount of water coming out into the gun. Thanks for the awesome video!!

Amazing. Epic build..

You are wrong! It's not an aftercooler. It's an intercooler (just like a turbo intercooler) 😂 Nice build. 👍 I went the vertical route with 4 drains at the bottom of each run using black pipe mounted on a concrete wall. I built it as an aftercooler water separator for painting, sandblasting and plazma cutting but now I've seen the light and I'm converting it to an intercooler using 1/2 inch hydraulic hose. My Sears compressor is about 50 years old now and never a leak. They don't make them like that anymore. I'm planning on adding another ck valve to avoid short stop lock ups so the bleeder doesn't have to dump all the air in the radiator.

The extra volume (amount) of air between the compressor and the check valve needs more time to fully bleed off. If you can find one, a purge valve with a larger inner diameter tube would shorten the time it takes to depressurize.

Very impressive work, friend. Definitely an inspiration for others to try out.

Having the water drain out of the filter is genius! Mine gets so bad after one day.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Looks good 👍🏻 👍🏻

Nice work! That is a much better modification than mine!

Very nice. Just finished building a similar setup, except on a 30 gal. compressor. A key thing here is that the water separator is more effective as the flow rate increases. My smaller compressor hardly catches much water compared to yours.

Amazing job.

NICE WORK. A brief technical point: all motors vibrate and therefore should be using flexible hoses rated for PSI/Pressure/Temp rating of your unit. The likelihood of copper soldered vibrating loose is almost non existence, but, i used compression fittings on mine therefore had to use flex hose. The vibration will transfer throughout the system though. I also added a filtration system on mine cause I'm running a plasma table through it.

Nice work! One of the best laid out and implemented aftercooler setups that I've seen so far. I'm in the process of doing similar setup.

nice work!

Nice JOB ! I'm planning to get a Dewalt 5 hp 2 stage tomorrow a 60 gallon. I was going through the web looking for some good ideas to install this cooler because i did not like the idea to install it on the grill. They will need to take this grill off sooner or later what a pain .. Thank you for some ideas ...

Good Job

I bought a similar setup for my 20Gallon portable

What pressure does your air compressor kick on and kick off at? you might be able to set it to not kick on until it reaches a slightly lower pressure, that might resolve your back pressure issue, may only take a little bit of adjustment, should also help your pump to last longer at a lower psi. I have looked at a LOT of these after cooler videos, and your install and tube routing certainly looks well thought out and clean, I have seen a few where they run the coil into a bucket of water, I am still on the fence if I want to add the water bucket to my planned setup or not. EDIT: Actually I was thinking about this some more.... you still have a check valve in place right? seems like when the pump shuts off that it should depressurize the condenser up to wherever you have your check valve installed, so whenever the compressor starts back up there wouldn't be any pressure in the system up until the check valve, this is why they hiss when they turn off. It seems unlikely that the tube size would cause enough back pressure to cause this to happen, unless the electric motor is just barely large enough for that size compressor pump, or if the pump itself is starting to have issues (check the pump oil level?)

Excellent work, best after cooler video I've found on You Tube! I'm curious about the fan power circuit. I've seen folks use repurposed 12V power supplies from an old PC, but I've not seen someone incorporate a relay before. Are you doing that only to maintain constant power to manually operate the fan when the contactor is idle, then the relay can still be actuated automatically when the contactor is engaged, operating the 12v fan in auto mode with the compressor cycles also? Or is there another reason all together? Thanks again for sharing, very impressed with your whole system design, especially the mounting bracket fab work.

This is so far the most complete air dryer I’ve seen. Big thums up for the relay, WOW. A simple idea, but a must have. I’m about to do the same to my compressor and I want to know if you had any problems with vibrations on your electronics or even on your piping. Just asking because I saw other video with that kind of problems. Nicely done 👍

Love the video and install but did you take a Valium before making this video? Show some excitement man thats an awesome set-up!

Man what an awesome video and build! I've been watching so many other videos and you were the first one to do the idea I had using a relay. Coming from the car audio industry that's the first thing that came to my mind was adding a relay and a fan. Very impressed. I have a much much smaller compressor and I am wanting to add something like this. will also probably add another tank to store more volume. If in total I have a 1.5 horsepower 175 PSI 4.3 scfm with 15gallon of tank storage. Would i need the same size radiator? Or could i do something smaller. Think you said that was a 16 lane. Could i get away with maybe an 8? Or do i need to stay at a 16? Once again thank you for your time and effort making a video and showing the world. Hope to hear back! Thanks again

What relay/ contactor did you use? I have a refrigerated drier but bypass it most the time unless doing paint work. My compressor is a 2 stage but a aftercooler would still help. I already have a couple large extra derale Trans coolers with 12 volt fans so the expensive part I already here.

I like that. I'm going to copy it and If i do a video the title will be,Air compressor INTErcooler, air drier, and water separator not Aftercooler your setup is in between the compressor and the tank Hence inter cooler not after cooler

Do you have a link for the after cooler and Air filter dryer auto release? Looks like the auto water release valve open until close at certain preasure. When starting at empty tank the valve will always stay open until preasure built up and closed. This auto release not work on this setup.

Check your starting capacitor it might start going bad and that will usually affect the start kick on the motor ( assuming is a single phase 220V) mine was giving me a humming and not start and ended up being the two starting caps. It’s a Baldor 5 HP 1 phase and now it’s kicking right up.

I have that same air compressor and I just got that same after-cooler. Do you know what size fittings those are that connect to the compressor head and the tank? I want to keep that original tube that goes from the head to the tank so I could put it back later, if needed. So I can't re-use those fittings because I would have to cut the copper pipe to do that. I'm going to go with 1/2" OD flexible tubing for all of mine. That's the same size as the after-cooler, so trying to keep 5/8" to go into the after-cooler is probably not going to make much difference. My main interest is finding what size fittings I need to connect to the tank and head.

Any problems with solder joints cracking? I'm planning on doing a similar install with 3/4" copper pipe but my big 80gal compressor has a good bit of vibration and I'm wondering if it will hold up long-term when running 50 hrs a week. I've thought about high pressure rubber hoses instead to reduce vibration but I like the idea of the cooling effect of the copper, at least from the compressor head to the cooler.

long time later but: does the relay require a neutral line? i have 2 hots and a ground running to my pressure switch, no neutral.

Dustin are you using the Derale 15300 condenser that everyone with this size of compressor seems to be using? I have a big Saylor Beall 705 / 175psi rated / 5hp compressor with 100 gallon tank. I want to build a set-up like this and my only concern was that I needed bigger piping.. like 5/8" for everything and a bigger condenser. Are the condenser fittings 1/2"? And what is the fan you used. Thanks in advance for the help.

Did you use standard electric solder wire on the pipes?

The main line coming off the compressor head? Is that joint just soddered normal?

Harbor freight has a refrigerated cooler for 600 bucks it's 99% water free you probably got that much in that set up

have you thought about the magnetic start switch everwhere says id needed,

Do you ever open the tank drain to see if any water is getting there?

Is there anyway you can tell how you hooked up the relay I’m so stumped on it

Do you have part numbers for the relays and power converter to 12v?

I have an IR 80 gallon and built a set up like this with the same type water separator. At about 60psi the separator blew up. Any ideas why??? Now i have to buy a new separator and try again.

Dusty…can you please provide the water separator information…are you still pleased with operation or would you go with something else

Wouldn't it be a lot easier to mount the condenser on the back of the cage, so the pump fan blows across it? Eliminates the need for the electric fan altogether.

Solider will not hold up vibration will come apart not what they are used for

Wouldn't it be better to plumb the watertrap before the cooling radiator closer to the head

Harbour freight has a cooler for 500 your at that now