would sprinkling water work like submerging the panels?

@@jeffreydustin5303 A constant mist would be fine, anything you do is better then doing nothing. Seems like a waist of water though, if you dont recycle it. If you can, make a tub from ferrocement :-)

Thanks! I'll get these panels out in the garden for the winter and do a follow up video late spring.

GREAT IDEA. A lego version...

You are very welcome! Cheers!

Yes! That's a great suggestion!

@@MANaboutTOOLS don't forget extra reinforcing and added drain/weep holes/french drains in colder climates

its not realy the weight what matters if you get it strong enough you could use U shaped reinforcements who reach in the bars on top and bottom to create a 3d formed reinforcement of the elements as perlite gave you i guess 46% ligther modules its more easy to produce and more persistent if you mass produce it as foam. there are also foamglas (or stone i cant find it) perls who have a lot higher strength than perlite and air in it, that together with perlite and glasfibers and csm concrete should give you the highest strenght over all CSM cement with 3d bendet reinforcements who reach to the pipe elemets would be the best for high load modules who can go at the bottom of a raised bed you can even colorcode it with different colors or shades to blend the bottom parts of a raised bed better into the landscape and cover some spatters from rain or grascuttings (and easy to different from the others) @MAn about Tools: i would every time use glasfibers in the mix it makes a hughe different in breaking resistance. and you can use plastic mesh for concrete floors with at least 8mm mesh with as reinforcements instead of the rebars. maybee combined with a single steel bar for length strength against breacking (but i think its not needet with your design) best part is you can cut the plastic mesh to reach into the ears and to the pipes and you dont add steel to the modules who can rust in the long therm just dont use to small mesh width because it will separate the 2 layers of concrete

I would recommend a few changes if used for terracing for example every 2 panels adding a brace that goes into the hillside at a right angle to the wall to help stabilize the wall reinforcing it against the dirt loading as well as you'll need drainage behind the wall/thru the wall to prevent bulging/ blowout out via hydraulic saturation from rain/snow/watering/other forms of precipitation

@@dodgeme1986truck thanks for that insight, possibly building the casting forms smaller, 2 to three feet, and putting them in a zigzag pattern with up to 90 degree angles would be beneficial. Also changing the casting form to create weep holes along the bottom edge should help prevent bulging via the possible hydraulic saturation; even with the soil having good drainage and no bulge present with an 8 inch step in the terrace, changing to an increased step could cause a problem with the future remake of the road front gardens. (The old gardens were destroyed by a new sewer project, thus I have a new canvas to work with now.)

@@stevenstillwell-NC even in good/excellent draining soil as little as 1 foot of terrace height with a very heavy rain can cause problems so yes the weep holes would be good and the zig zag pattern would act as the anchoring bars... been there ran into all those problems before with a neighbors retaining wall (the contractor who put it in was from a warmer climate that didn't freeze and didn't install any drainage behind the wall because the soil was sandy and drained fairly well on its own)...even with the sandy soil behind the wall we had an extreme rain storm (dumped several inches of rain on top of 18 inches of snow we already had that spring with 3 days sub zero directly following) because the sandy soil couldn't drain fast enough it was water saturated when it froze and it acted like a hydraulic ram on the back of the retaining wall causing the wall to fail (for regions that freeze it is highly recommended to add a french drain behind the retaining wall in combination with the weep holes) and in colder climates you'll want to increase the thickness of the panels as well as doubling the reinforcing mesh 1 layer being closer than the half way mark to the face of the panel

@@stevenstillwell-NC that's what we always called a "deadman" when we would do landscaping and would put in wooden timber retaining walls. No matter the height of the wall to be built, you are absolutely correct, weep holes and deadmen are absolutely critical to the longevity of the new wall.

Thank you! Cheers!

this is gold.

Thanks!!

a lo que tengo entendido que es 48 horas , pero me supongo que varia segun el tamaño y grosor de la pieza que se arme

Thanks! These panels worked out well.

You are very welcome!

Thanks Jim! I appreciate your support! I did a strength test of these panels here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLtjqc93stm-mac.html

Thanks!

Thanks! It's very interesting stuff for sure.

Yes. That would help. Thanks!

amen brother

@@drumsonfire2point0... Sister...;-)

Amen Sister!! I stand corrected!

you can also use it akin to a gelcoat - make just enough white cement with dye to cover the surface of the mould, sprinkle with aggregate/aircete pebbles on top to facilitate adhesion, let dry a bit and pour the filler concrete - that is, if it's worth the hassle to save on white cement and dyes...

@@dushk0 I don't get the point: gelcoat is much expensive than white cement and dyes...

Thank you! Cheers!

Could this aggregate be used to make a forge?

@@Devastatin777 maybe, the flame test I did yielded less damage than traditional aircrete I've named it UltraAircrete. If I built a forge from it I'd have to keep in mind that I'm was using Portland cement as the binder and that does have its limits. But I've only don't a 50/50 mix, if I increased the exfoliated graphite 70/30 or even 80/20 I think that might help. I'm planning on using it for a rocket stove application but I have to make more exfoliated graphite. I also want to make some shear exfoliated graphene in solution that I could use to replace the water for the slurry and then add the exfoliated graphite and see what improvement's that would yield! Pretty cool stuff.

How much exfoliated graphite do you use? When do you get the stuff?

@@corpsiecorpsie_the_original I used a one to one ratio by volume. I know it seams like alot of exfoliated graphite but it adds no noticeable weight to the Aircrete. Next I would like to hack James Tours method for making graphitized carbon from bio waste. I think it would be a much better and cost effective way to produce high quality carbon to strengthen Aircrete!

@@HergerTheJoyous - thanks. I'm already making bio char for fun ☺️

I work in a lab testing concrete cylinders and I highly recommend excess lime in your tank as well.

@@chadwessels1441 How much lime to add to what size tank? For example a tank of 5' x 5' x 6" deep [12.5 c.ft. water] would need _____# of lime. Thanks.

@@gaurasells the rule of thumb is to add enough lime until you get some that doesn't dissolve. You need an excess in the solution.

Thanks! See my super simple form here: manabouttools.com/super-simple-concrete-garden-boxes-part-1/

Devin Heaps would that be a 1:1 ratio?

@@bruceb1433 5:1 glue:borax. Make the polymer first. Then add 1:1 to 1:4 polymer:foaming agent, depending on desired weight. Next add all premixed dry cementitious materials to polymer foam.

@@DevinHeaps what's the foaming agent you mention? SLS?

Thanks! The Foam Mate seemed to produced a denser foam. And it makes just the amount you need. The foam screen mixer works pretty well but I would have to make more than I need for a batch. The weight of each is very close though. I might need to do a more detailed and thorough test and comparison.

You know of any brand names for us? Thanks

@@impactajuvenile can't compare brands, never used one, but Ryobi makes one.

Or a thin layer of cement with no foam in the bottom of the mold

@@friendlyoldbum9182 or more sand and plasticiser