Thank you so much. I just started my brewing journey and almost all the videos I’ve come across on YT didn’t go through step by step and i found it really hard to follow. I’m so happy that your video appeared on my feed.

That iodine tip is a great one!

I watched a ton of videos before I saw yours. By a mile, one of the best instructional videos I have seen on the full process. Thanks man. You cleared up a bunch for me.

I paired your detailed video instructions with a bunch of reading and it made my first Brew Day a breeze, thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video!

This is the best step by step all grain video I’ve found. I’m brewing my first all grain as I type this, and you made an extremely helpful video. Thank you!

I did my first homebrew in August last year. I started with liquid malt extract and steeping grains. I then graduated to large partial mash (7-9 lbs malted grain) plus about 2.25 to 4 lbs LME, depending on the recipe. My 5 gallon kettle fits inside my oven, so I preheat the oven to 170 degrees, fill the kettle with hot water and the crushed grains, and mash inside my oven using Brew in a Bag for an hour. About half way thru, I take the kettle out, stir the grains, put it back in the oven and turn on the electric element for about 1 minute. The oven holds temp very well. I was told that the stove top on most stoves lacks the oomph to boil an all grain batch. I questioned that wisdom and bought an eight gallon Megapot (no ball valve) from Northern Brewer and began doing all grain boils (about 6.65 gallons to a little more) on my stove top last January. The stove top is stout enough to do more than a gallon boil off per hour. Mashing in a 5 gallon kettle long term has its limits. So, I did what you show here and bought a 10 gallon RubberMaid water cooler, put in a stainless steel ball valve, and do Brew in a Bag inside it. I can either do no rinse, traditional BIAB with about 7.5 to 8 gallons of hot water, or I can put in about half the water and rinse with about the same amount. The ball valve will accept either a torpedo screen or a false bottom, but I have only done BIAB inside it. I bought extra large (31" by 31") BIAB bags on Amazon (2 for 12.99). That size is perfect for the water cooler. It is big enough to fit over the two large, fixed in place handles. I then secure it with a 24" and an 13" bungee cord and that works just fine as well. The lid on the water cooler will screw closed with the bag in place. I mash for an hour at 152 and the temp may drop to 151 after an hour, if that. The 10 gallon cooler is great for mashing! All sorts of head room, draining thru the ball valve instead of lifting out the bag gets rid of most of the mess and saves my back. Your videos have helped me as a novice brewer. Thanks.

This is awesome. Keep up the good work!

That fermentor is a great idea! I used to cover the carboy with an electric heating blanket hooked up to a digital temperature controller. I'd just put the temperature probe under the electric blanket against the glass carboy and keep it around 72°.

what a great detailed step by step video .Thanks for the info, ready to try first all grain beer.

Great content Dennis, you walked through that process thoroughly, good learning curve for a new AG brewer, cheers from Oz 🍻🍻

learnt a lot, very good vid and lots of info. cheers

Thank you for the video. Most others I saw were summaries and didn’t show the steps of the process. This was super helpful and tied it all together for me. Now I’m ready!

Really awesome video! Thanks!

I’ve always wanted to try this beer! Might as well brew it.

Nicely explained for a newbie all-grainer like me, thanks mate.

Great video! Really helpful!

Finally a video that shows the process lol thank you.. time to brew

Awesome video. Thank you

This helped so much! A detailed, step-by-step and chronological video that’s well made. Thank you!

Yes thank you I did learn some things I needed to know I understand sparging what it is and does but looked at the calculator you were talking about and really confused on that

Great video. Just bought an all in one system from Delta brewing systems, can’t wait to use it. Cheers.

Great Job Dennis!

Okay, at the 4 and a half gallons of 170 degree water that I'd have to lift to sparge using this method has made me decide that the BIAB method is for me. The lift would cost me less than the additional cooler and I wouldn't have to lift anything. Watching this again I picked up stuff I missed the first time I watched it. So much good stuff here!

Thank you!

Try brew in a bag. Saves all those transfers. Ans, you can do it all in your boil kettle.

Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

Great walkthrough! I am zoning in on the recipe but still a way off on the OG. Thanks for this video tutorial.

To all others like me - "Step by step" can't get any better than this right here my friends. Thankyou. I still have a question - How much watts ceramic heater is present in the chamber? Did you had any over heating issues with it 'cause from what I've learned they can reach higher temperatures pretty fast. Maybe a CPU fan of some sort would be beneficial? It's falls here and I am searching for the right way to ferment my Kveik beer. I want to take it to 33 degrees Celsius. Would ceramic bulb help me achieve that temperature without heating too quickly to start burning things up? I am concerned about this. Thanks again.

I love All Grain BIAB ! 🍻🍻 #CHEERS

Half way through this video and I had to stop and subscribe. I'm a complete newbie, my first kit beer is fermenting now. But I want to progress and I like how you think. :-D

It is good to see your approach. Thanks for sharing! Also I wonder if you know that there is usually a correction factor to be applied to the refractometer. You need to find the correction factor of your refractometer by comparing with a hydrometer. The correction factor is usually somewhere between 0.9 and 1.1.

Thanks for the video. I want to go to all grain soon. Have a few questions. 1- what size boil kettle do you use for five gallon recipes? 2- I bought a mesh bag specifically made for 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler mash tun ( that was given to me without a false bottom) Advertised as takes place of a false bottom and makes for easier cleaning of mash tun). Do you see any negatives of using this rather than a false bottom? 3- every thing I see about sparge water is to make it rain over the grain bed. I see you dumped all the 170 degree water in at once and stirred and let sit for 20 minutes). What is the difference? Why would some do it this way as opposed to how you did?

Been watching your vids, you need to do a biab vid, that’s my next step into this journey

Hi Denis, Im´s thinking on becoming a Homebrewer. Great channel, just subscribed. You dont have views and subscribers you deserve, but keep the good work!

Nice job explaining everything stop by step! It will help a lot with my first all grain this weekend. So I noticed you have your boat registered in SC midway through the video. I would have never thought you were from SC lol. You have to be a transplant because your missing that southern twang lol

Alot of people forget to mention to keep that fermentation out of light or sunlight it's as relevant as maintaining temperature.

Loved the vid. Was able to grasp the procedure and lingo at the same time. Please advise what is the main cause of Homebrew Tang? Cheers from Melbourne Australia.

Hi, Informative video. What did u add to give the clear look pls? I didn't quite the name.

Slow play hat, red white and brew shirt… Rock Hill, SC !!

So many great tips Dennis! Thank you mate! One question though,have you ever tried to conserve water whilst cooling the wort or using the water again instead of letting the excess run down your driveway? Here in Australia water is precious,so we try to re-use as much water as possible.

What size bung and tube diameter would I need to create a blowoff tube? I have a bung with a smaller inner hole for a regular airlock. Using a 6.5gal Big Mouth Bubbler glass.

You're the first person I've seen use a Lowe's water cooler for their mash tun. No idea why Home Depot gets all the love lol

Do you have a video something in the line of matching yeast with the type of beer you are making. I’m a little foggy in this area considering how many yeast and types of beer there are.

I live in Texas and it’s 95 to 98 every day this time of year . So I was wondering, do I even need a heater in my fermentation chamber as it is on the covered back porch? What you think

enjoyed your teaching , I have been brewing using extract and want to kick it up a notch with all grain brewing. what size is your brew kettle? I cool my wort by sticking kettle in snow bank. Going down to -36 on Tues with wind chill factor. Fast cooling. I ferment in the room near my Vermont castings woodstove , works great. I also always use a blow off tube. Lots of brewing here in the Maine , western Mtn range. North Woods. Great job on video.

Do you know of a web site where you can get clone recipes of your favorite beer ? Thanks

AWESOME BREW DAY!!!! The video is GREAT!!! The only issue that occurred on the brew day was that the recipe produced moonshiners beer. It appears, that whoever wrote the recipe is familiar with the way that moonshiners beer is made, which was popular during Prohibition. Homebrewers didn't use the brewing method, unless, they were moonshiners because they used malt syrup available in markets, with herbs and spices for flavoring because hops were difficult to obtain. It's where specialty beer and winter warmers came from. The single temperature infusion method is used in grain distillation, where glucose is only needed. The brewing method skips three steps that are required for producing ale and lager, conversion, dextrinization, and gelatinization. Single temperature infusion, chemically and enzymatically, cannot produce ale, due to the way that enzymes function, and chemical precipitation. You have starch, and the way that enzymes work with starch, a little confused. Starch is a poly-saccharide. There are two types of starch in malt, simple and complex, and neither one, converts to sugar. In brewing, the correct term is mash conversion. Conversion has nothing to do with starch, it has to do with simple sugar, glucose. Alpha deals with starch, Beta deals with glucose. This is the way it works during mashing. Alpha is responsible for liquefaction. When Alpha liquefies simple starch, amylose, it does it at a 1-4 link in the starch chain, and when that happens, two chains form, and the name changes. The one chain is called the reducing end, and the other chain is called the nonreducing end. The reducing end contains 1-4 links and after Alpha liquefies all of the links, sweet tasting, nonfermenting, types of sugar, remain. The nonreducing end is simple sugar, glucose. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. The higher the rest temperature, the quicker Alpha denatures, and sweeter tasting, low ABV beer is produced. The rest temperature recommended in the recipe is used by moonshiners because at 150F, Alpha releases the highest volume of glucose, as possible, from amylose, within one hour. The more glucose, the more alcohol. The high temperature denatures low temperature activated enzymes that are needed for making ale and lager, Beta in particular, which makes strike and target temperature, useless. Beta is purposely denatured in moonshining because the enzyme gets in the way by slowing down the process. Beta is responsible for conversion, which occurs at 140 to 145F. During conversion, Beta turns the glucose that Alpha releases during liquefaction, into fermentable, complex, types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place, due to maltose. Maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Beer doesn't need priming sugar, or CO2 injection to carbonate, when conversion occurs. When Alpha liquefies complex starch, called amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization takes place. Dextrinization and gelatinization are responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. Amylopectin is hard, heat resistant, complex starch that makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. Contained in amylopectin are A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting, types of sugar, and pectin. A and B limit dextrin, pectin, and a type of albuminus, protein, provides the body and mouthfeel in beer. In homebrewing, amylopectin, is thrown away with the spent mash because the temperatures are not high enough to burst the heat resistant, starch, where it would enter into the mash liquid, before Alpha denatures. When the starch is thrown away, beer overly, dries and thins during fermentation and conditioning. It is one of the reasons why homebrew is artificially carbonated, and drank, green, from boiler to belly in three or four weeks. To take advantage of amylopectin, the Hochkurz and triple decoction brewing methods are used. When the boiling decoctions are added back into the main mash, Alpha liquefies amylopectin, and dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. The only time dextrinization occurs in the infusion method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. In homebrewing, it is made to appear that dextrinization occurs when mash is rested at a high temperature, which isn't the case. To place the brew cart behind the horse, every bag of malt comes with a malt spec sheet, which is used in brewing for determining the quality of malt, before the malt is purchased. Listed on a malt spec sheet are a bunch of chemical acronyms and numbers that a brewer uses to find out if the malt is better for making whiskey with, or more suitable, for producing ale and lager. It is not a bad idea to become familiar with the data on a malt spec sheet. Malt spec sheets are online from each malthouse. For a recipe to be accurate, the malthouse that produces the base malt has to be identified in order to obtain the malt spec sheet. The recipe recommended 2 row malt, which is similar to asking a person to buy a 2 door car without offering any specs. The recipe recommended a rest temperature that's used in grain distillation, where high modified, to over modified, malt is used. Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise are examples of high quality, distillers malt. Weyermann's floor malt is under modified, low protein, malt. Gladfield's base malts are under modified. Under modified, malt is richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt, and low protein, malt contains more sugar. Malt, 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. Malt should contain less than 10 percent protein. The higher, the Kolbach number and the higher, the protein content in malt, the less suitable the malt is for making ale and lager. Both numbers are listed on a malt spec sheet. Try not to slop hot water into mash, you want to reduce the risk of oxidation, not increase it. Iodine only determines if starch is present, it cannot determine when conversion occurs. Depending on the type of sugar that's in the sample, the colors of Iodine will vary from yellow-orange to deep red-mahogany. It's probably better to crush a tablet, the guy that makes the stuff, recommends it. A dye is first used, to determine if yeast is worth saving. It would be better to forget about harvesting yeast because sooner or later you will ruin a batch of beer. Yeast becomes senile. To learn how to make ale and lager start out with DeClerks books.

Where can I get a screen for 5 gallon bucket? Thanks

Can you leave the mash tun to cool down over night and boil it in the morning?

I totally enjoyed your video, thank you. 1 question though, unless I missed it, did u add more plain water to your recipe after cooling and before adding the yeast? The recipes I use always seem to have me do that. Maybe it’s because I do it from an extract kit, not an all grain recipe. Would that be the difference? Thanks again.

In my 2nd fermentation I’m just resting to beer and letting it settle right ? It’s not really fermenting, not adding anymore yeast My momma always said only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask lol

You should read the directions on the ferm cap. Definately not a teaspoon.

Excellent video! On the chiller - my lhbs rep suggested putting the chiller right in the boiling wort because the copper is a micronutrient for the yeast. Also - two suggestions on your volume levels. 1) get a body mic. Your own mic level is extremely inconsistent depending on where you're standing, and 2) if you must add sound effects (like the air horn) make them at the same dB rating as the main video. That blast was painful and I very nearly did NOT watch your excellent and very informative video as a result of that shock in the first few seconds.

Hello everyone, I am new to brewing, question, why can’t you you the mash in the kettle, why a mash tun ?

I have that same kettle

I have 50 lbs whole grain pilsen and some Munich light malt. Would like to make a lite beer on next batch . What yeast and hops would you recommend. Have cascade on hand. Maybe a smash with just the pilsen . On fermentables they list several different pilsners ie pilsner uk, Pilsner ca, pilsen de. Not sure which to pick. Any ideals would be appreciated. Thanks

Do you spray your bung with sanitizer? I was using a Carboy and the bung and the Carboy were slick so the bung was sliding up.

Question, so you heat your sparge to around 175? I have been hearing to almost boil and adding into a warm cooler. Do you think that is too high? I have had good results at that temp but haven’t tried lower.

What was your recipe and grain bill. That was never stated. Thank you

What KIND OF thermometer Is THAT

So your base malt and specialty malt were all crushed together?

Can the wrong amount or combination of water additions affect OG/FG ?

Brewing in a bag seems like less hassle than using a mash tun but what do I know I've never brewed just been watching a lot of videos before I dive in.

Nice video. Basically the same procedure I use, except I don't have a spider, I use reusable hop bags clipped to the sides of the kettle with clothes pins. (Just make sure you don't let the strings fall down or you'll burn them off LOL) I also go nuts with my vourlaufing. I use two kitchen pots and pour back through a spaghetti colander so as not to disturb the grain bed. It kinda "rains" down gently. I'll alternate filling and pouring the pots at medium drain speed about 20-30 times until the wort is really clear. I know, I'm anal. Hehe. I take first runnings gravity, sparge gravity, and pre-boil gravity readings with a refractometer, and after chilling, an original gravity reading with both refrac and hydrometer. Cheers!

Can you do it in India? Can you setup a course in India.

Very loud noise suddenly came out‼️

Quiet voice audio + super loud bullhorn at 0:08 was just mean.

The multiple times you drain off some wort so you don’t get a bunch of grain in your next container seems like a problem that could just be solved with a sieve

Can you go too hot