Lol! I hereby dub this axe “longclaw!”

Haha that’s a good one

bro my first thought when he showed his face was this is jon snow. traded in long claw for an axe lol

Thank you! Hope you continue to enjoy the videos!

Thanks man! Had a huge load of logs come in and most of it I split into firewood but I kept a few so I can practice a bit. I’ve been watching your videos and also brian2bears and Kurt. They help me a lot with technique.

Haha there it is. I was pretty surprised about the edge. I do think it’s a soft batch of axes. This is the second one from sake store sake smith. I’m not happy with it but it was a gift from my father and will treasure it for that reason. Plus I don’t want to put out the store by returning another one… but wow if this is the way GBA edges hold I am absolutely floored they built up the rep they have.

⁠@@urbanlumberjackPersonally I’ve used the small forest axe for things I had no business doing. I’ve used it on quite a bit of white oak with no issues so possibly bad heat treatment on the ones you got? Or maybe you’re getting the edge too thin, I honestly have no idea.

Yeah dude! I really like it, becoming one of my most versatile and used axes.

For sure. Everybody’s got stinkers and everybody’s got different wood too. Have you checked your bevel?

a dayton axe is a $40.00 axe a hults brux is a $200.00 axe ....which one do you think would hold an edge better ?

I love that name! I might use it. I am extremely happy with my woodcraft CT axes I would love to try their Velvicut line

Good luck with that flying fox! I love mine

That sounds like great steel. I love the polls on the hunters axe.

Those boys axes are great, I’m pretty fond of them. The flying fox is awesome, doesn’t get enough credit IMHO. I think the longest handle CT sells it on is a 21 or so but I absolutely love mine on a 28. Would be an excellent pack axe on a 24.

I consider that as a possibility, but there is nothing in the log, and I tried several matches, each of them rolled the edges. No damage to any other axe except maybe that flying fox, which is a 1/2 pound lighter, and has a 17 degree bevel. I have definitely hit stuff in logs and bark, they can hide some nasty stuff.

I agree with you. I’ve had the same issue with one of mine and I just sharpened it, got all the rolls out and it’s never done it again.

Thank you! I got these on Amazon, i believe. These came as a three stone set. I might try to figure out how to put a link in the description. It’s a great company. The translucent stone came from Harry J Epstein, they have it a great price too.

Thanks man! I’ve been practicing and settling into it more. It helps that I got a huge load of red oak logs a few weeks ago. That’s a great idea on the bevel, I’m going to try that out tomorrow. The bevel is a bit over 20, so I’m hoping a secondary bevel toughens it up, it cuts great.

@@urbanlumberjack did that to mine, Im cutting brazilian hardwood. Its holdind the edge amazingly well. Before the microbevel, my edge was rolling. So I think is just about a tiny reprofile, not a issue with HT

That is the same time period everybody else has issues with. Glad you got it figured out! For me the factory grinding ruined the temper. I filed it back and am in really good steel now. Very happy with the quality.

That’s a bummer about the temper. I do feel like they are a bit too heavy on the factory grind, to say the least. I feel like it should be up to the end user if they want a sub 20 grind rather than make that standard. This is my third or maybe fourth GB and the only one I’ve have issues with. Thanks for sharing!

The Velvicut series is awesome. The pack axe blew me away how fast it cut. Which model did you get?

Hope you like that HB, they make a quality product! Thanks for sharing your input!

For sure, it’s a strange one for me. I don’t know that I’ve ever come across steel like this that can take a super sharp edge but hold it this poorly.

@@urbanlumberjack sounds like a heat treat issue honestly. It's too soft so it's easy to sharpen but will roll easily. You should contact GB and refund it and retest when you can. I feel like that axe even if meant for small European spruce and stuff should hold up to ANY wood

I made it! Really fun project.

I filed it back to set the bevel at 20 degrees or so. That removed the softened steel and put a more appropriate grind on the axe so it doesn’t take damage like before. The axe is wonderful now. I’ve used it heavily with no problems

If you have a picture you can send it to me at urbanlumberjackga@gmail.com. That sounds though like it’s not a crack bit park of the forging process where the drift is reversed and driven in from bottom. This is actually one of the biggest benefits of having a GB axe. Drifting from top and bottom gives the eye a kind of “hourglass” shape, and it will provide a really tight friction fit on the handle instead of risking being on a “shelf,” so to speak. If it’s a crack that’s a problem but my guess is it’s not a crack but part of the metal spreading during the drifting. Perfectly fine.

@@urbanlumberjack I sent it. Branden from KZfaq.

​@@urbanlumberjackJust curious, was it a crack in the picture he sent, or the usual gap from the forging process?

I think bison is really cool company, and it’s awesome they’re still making this pattern. From what I’ve read, they’re basically a family owned company and the sons of the current owner all work for the company. I’m hoping the GB will harden up as I file back. It really does cut nicely

That’s what I thought as well. The axe certainly takes a wicked sharp edge but wont hold it.

I like HW. I have the Tasmanian and love it

The shape is definitely different that that will play a factor in durability. This bit will not stand up to hard use like the council tool pack axe, which has a very well done convex grind.

First one I returned to the retailer. Second one I kept and fixed. I have update videos on it if you are curious. My belief is the bevel was much too keen and ground too hot at the factory. Once I filed off the softened steel and set a ~20 degree bevel it is a marvelous axe

@@urbanlumberjack i just watched it :), thanks

Pack axe is usually 19-24 inches. Longer than hatchet but shorter than boys axe. Council tool makes an axe called a “woodcraft pack axe.”

I have seen some people mention that. What I’ve found is that once the bit is filed to an appropriate angle and the softened steel removed, fro overheating during grinding, it is a wonderful axe that can split, limb, and fell quite well. I have a few videos up in this. It chipped and rolled due to a too keen edge and too got grinding at the factory.

Can you respond with the address you emailed? Let me know what they say! I reached out to them on social media and didn’t get a response. But I’ve had more than five people share they had the same issues, same time purchasing axe and same smith. Can’t be a coincidence.

​@@urbanlumberjack They replied and said it sounded like a manufacturing defect and to send it back to the shop I bought it from for assessment. By that time though I'd removed about 3mm from the heel, maybe 2 from the toe, and 1 from the middle and widened the angle a bit, and it now performs OK -- the steel seems harder and its not rolling. I'm not very impressed given the reputation of GB, but at this point it's a working axe so I don't really feel right returning it. It would be hassle too as I'd have to post it, then probably argue with them about whether it was faulty or not. So yeah, long comment but I think next time I'll go back to Hults Bruk premium line which are much better in my experience.

That’s impressive. Hoping to get mine to the point where it will be a great user as well

@urbanlumberjack once you get enough blo soaked into that handle where it feels like a piece of furniture you'll be good to go they can take a beating if the head f a ils it's a defect in the manufacturing process

​@@urbanlumberjackalso mine is BK it had some teething issues in the blade the first couple of uses but once you get past the grind they're amazing axes

I filed it back and got to good steel. I think ground too hot

I have this issue too with my SFA. Small chips . Lately GB sucks. I have HB Hultan and the steel is top

Wow that’s impressive. I’ve looked up some Australian axe species and they are insanely hard! Turns out it was a bad grind, made it too thin and too hot. I filed it back and the axe is wonderful now. There’s a video on it one of my last four or five I think.

That’s a good way to look at it. Rolling is definitely better than chopping. I love Tennessee btw, some of my favorite places are up in the mountains around there

Yeah it’s a bummer, I am using it pretty hard. Going to try a secondary bevel and see if that helps

I can’t recommend those Arkansas stones enough, they are the best sharpening stones I have ever used by a mile! A lot of people don’t know that the best sharpening stones in the world are made right here in the United States in Arkansas.

@@urbanlumberjack which stones are you using? Did I miss that detail somewhere? I'm impressed with both of my Council Tool axes so far.

I may not have mentioned the manufacturer in this video, these are from Dan’s whetstones.

@@urbanlumberjack thanks.

I think the same. I filed it back past the softened steel and have been happily chopping/splitting hardwoods. Holds up flawlessly, I’ve put up a few videos showing this as an update

I have one and its my favorite out of several .

@darinmullins4770 when did you get yours? Any idea what the bevel was set to at the factory?

@@urbanlumberjack more recently , but i filed it slightly to get rid of the softer edge metal .

For sure. I made an update video on the ask. I found that grinding. It’s so thin burned the steel. Filing back to a more appropriate battle for an ax uncovered the good Swedish stuff.

yes, also when done at higher temperatures a carbide buildup on the edge happens, and causes a very hard but very brittle edge. I have Japanese cutlery and many people have commented on Takeda knives chipping. That is rectified after a few good sharpenings, at which point the carbide is gone and the beauty of the hard sharp Japanese steel starts to shine (characteristic, not chrome-like).

I think you’re right. Especially without hitting a knot or rock embedded in the wood. This is very unusual. And steep from Germany to Italy, US, and elsewhere to compare.

Not true at all. This line needs to die. The first time I heard this line was an old "NutNFancy" video from YEARS ago and even back then I rolled my eyes when he said that (about knives). Ever since then I always seem to still run into this comment. There are plenty of species of wood with various properties that can eat steel all day long for breakfast. It's weird, but it's true! Horace Kephart makes mention of this in his book. Even the best tempered steels and American made axes of his day could chip out on certain species of pines where the resin formed into balls as hard as glass. Extreme cold temperatures can make the steel even more brittle and cause chipping to the point of failure. This is why it's always advised to warm your axe head under your armpit for awhile before use in freezing and below temperatures. The number one wood you never mess with is Hemlock. Hemlock will absolutely destroy even the best tempered axe edges. Beater axes only for that type of wood (preferably just chainsaws). I have a GB Scandinavian of my own for years now, marked "HD"....I've chopped and split tons of hardwoods with it and never experienced any major edge issues. GB QC can be touch and go over the years from what I have seen and heard. But there are woods that not even steel can fully conquer.

My older axes are all 59-60 HRC. Even the paper labels that I’m sure weren’t top of the line when sold. Very interesting. I want to make some videos looking at Hults bruk, oxe head, council tool, etc. thanks for watching!

Ocshenkopf have also steel problems. Matt that does timbersport training broke if remember right two Ocshenkopf axes. Mine was just bump of my chopping block, which is knee height and chipped the toe. Their axes seem to be brittle. I have 12 Hults Bruk/ Hultafors axes and their steel is good steel. I am in South Africa and we have the same hard wood that Australia have.

For sure, I’ve seen three or four channels with same issue, same smith. Could be a bad batch of steel and that guy just happens to make most of the SFA, but really frustrating on a $260 axe.

It took a crazy sharp edge, I’m going to put a secondary bevel it and see if that toughens it up. I could definitely shave with it!

Will probably be fine! I bought a set of hardness files I’ll see if it’s the grind or the steel maybe make another video about it. Give it a shot if it holds an edge I’m sure it will be great

I was very surprised find that GB has softer steel than Hults Bruk. Despite that, I do believe they have a few axes that are worth the purchase even though expensive. Their carving axe and hewing axes are excellent.

I found the issue! The steel was ground too thin and too hot at the factory. It ruined the temper. I filed it back probably 1/8 inch and got to the good stuff. Really nice steel now

Dang, my cover is blown…

Have you checked what your bevel is set to? I’ve had some people say it’s 25, some 20 and mines 17 at the widest

I’ve heard from many people with this issue, I’ve filed probably a 1/4 inch back and widened the bevel quite a bit. It is holding its edge much better but alot of work required to get there for such an expensive axe!

That’s a sad thought. I would like to think we can still produce quality hand tools today.

Nope this is factory

Pondering this for a while, I think a knife edge on an axe is too thin even for a forest made out of stacks of paper lol. I’ve got a 20 degree on it now and it doesn’t take the damage it used to. I also believe grinding that much steel off the bit softened it considerably

One of my favorite axes is a husky! A 3.5 lb splitter I use it in a ton of my videos

I’m sure you will love it! If you have problems with the edge, file it back to 20 degrees and it will toughen it up.

@@urbanlumberjack You were right. at 20 degrees it's Happy Happy Happy- Thx..

Lots to like about council tool. I’m camping in the oconee forest this weekend and loving my pack axe.

Had the same experience down to the blacksmith. Also I love that husky maul too!

That’s the factory edge

..or the way more round edge of a Husvarna FA. ^^

Seems to be the case. This is how it came from the factory.

Check out one of my most recent videos on the ox. Turns out the first several layers of steel were burned at the factory. Made it very soft. I found that back and got to really good hard steel.

Heat treat seems fine, the steel isn’t good enough to stand up to hardwoods at the factory grind though. I took it back 5 degrees and it’s much better. It was ground to 15 degrees factory!

Don’t worry, this tree did not go to waste! In fact before I got it it was headed to be sent to the landfill. I already milled a bunch of ten foot slabs from it! The pieces I chopped were too knotty to be of good use milled. And they will not go to waste either as the wood is currently drying and will heat homes and families sitting around campfires.