Absolutely. This was really just a stepping stone and I really learned from these tests. Can’t wait to collaborate on something soon.

Jo Techthisoutmeow, is everything alright? You haven't posted for a long time. I was already concerned that something might have happened to you😅

When the guide coming out?

If I had glass on outside and inside and single shot would spray glass shrapnel everywhere. As far as the UV and PC. All it takes is a UV resistant film and it works wonders.

@@3RBallistics Do you use glass because of its compressive strength then?

@@justinw1765 think of it more like body armor. I use the glass as a strike face and polycarbonate as a composite. One breaks up and slows down the projectile and the other “catches” the projectile. Glass breaks and PC bends.

@@3RBallistics 👍

That's a hard endeavor because geometry is against you... unless you make the ballistic helmet with goggles like Minions. Your main concern should be reducing thickness a lot. You should try to reverse-engineer some existing tested ballistic helmets. I would do that. Or you will have to compromise visibility for protection. Visibility is important in combat. The eyes can be an acceptable weak spot, assuming the rest of the helmet can withstand power rounds (you said rifles, try to start with small caliber rounds, like 3A, and go in incremental steps). Also, you could go electronic, providing a helmet with no weak points, but with sensors that can be projected in small screens to the wearer. Wishing you the best of luck!

@@merodriguez81 It would indeed be difficult to achieve if you were using traditional bulletproof glass methods. However I've been thinking of a bulletproof glass prototype concept that I think could allow me to get away with a rifle rating for a small area of coverage. My idea is to combine a layer of transparent Aluminum with a layer of tightly packed glass marbles molded inside a piece of Polycarbonate plastic followed by a very thick layer of Polycarbonate plastic that's annealed (to catch any fragmentation that makes it through the first 2 layers ). Keep in mind though this is only a conceptual prototype. I won't know if this will work until I build a few samples and get ahold of someone to test them for me. In theory it should give me good optical clarity while still protecting my eyes from bullets and fragments. If it ends up working I'll use that in conjunction with forearm-mounted ballistic mini shields to block any head shots from a distance. The mini shields is another concept I drew up and put on the back burner until I get the necessary materials to build some test samples. As for the main composite armor for the rest of the helmet, I think I plan to go for a level 3A-x rating. Or a high level 3A that's capable of taking down all pistol calibers, including the ones designed to penetrate 3A panels, and can even stop a few low tier rifle threats by itself with little to no ceramic used such as .300 Blackout or .223 Remington for example. I won't phase out ceramic for it entirely, I'm just going to set the limit to no more than very little ceramic used if any is used at all. And I will also try to keep the helmet very lightweight and still at that insane rating. 3A-x @ 5 lbs. or less high multi-hit with little to no BFD signature if I can manage it.

@@nemesisobsidian You made me investigate. I am no chemist. I'm a Software Engineer. If I understood well, Aluminium oxynitride should be a great idea. Again, what bothers me is that even if you achieve to stop the rounds in the eyes, the visibility WILL BE compromised, at least for that eye, with only ONE round. That's why I mentioned electronics before. Sure, you can say, if you manage to get shot twice in the eyes, you probably are going to die anyway. That is true. Again, the best choice is to avoid getting shot in the face. Regarding the forearm-mounted shield, you can inspire yourself from the riot shields, or classic bulletproof glass methods, you can even use curve geometry on a mounted vambrace, to deflect a part of the bullet (as tanks do). That is feasible. Transparency? If you think is necessary. It is not. Maybe you have in mind something mechanical. Again, keep it as simple as possible. If the idea is to protect only the head, knowing the direction from the fire, a vambrace should be fine, even in only one arm. Ceramics rocks, but again, will work decently for single rounds, compared with Epoxy, and multilayered Polycarbonate or woven fiber glass, I think. The BFD issue is very important because the protection is for the head. Add weight if you need to, but damage to the brain or incapacitation is equal to death. Remember the Knights of Old with full-plate armor? Besides crossbows, crushing weapons were the way to go. Trauma dmg. BONG! Also, the helmet should be able to be easy to detach if compromised. After that, you should be able to remove it and swap it. My personal goal is always 9 mm, full magazine. 13 shots, randomly scattered. OR one Power Round from a Rifle. 3 is too much. It would look like an early XX high dept diver. That's up to the wearer to avoid getting 3x shot in the head! Keep designing friend! Good luck!

@@merodriguez81 Yes a hit to bulletproof glass tends to ruin its optical clarity. That's why I also thought about making the lenses 2x2" inches square flat on one side curved inwards on the other side with some foam padding attached to the curved side so as to make the lenses more comfortable to wear around my eye sockets when I put the helmet on. The lenses will be replaceable if they get cracked by a bullet or fragments. I've also thought about designing the helmet in such a way that part of its outer armor slightly overlaps and forms narrow slits over the bulletproof glass lenses both in length and depth kind of like the classic heavy crossbow windows that knights used in castle fortifications during the medieval period. I think this would counter the problem of a stray bullet or fragment hitting the lens and possibly cracking it. The idea is it would allow full visibility and optical clarity while making it more difficult for a stray bullet or bullet fragment to hit the lens and damage it. Also from what I can tell most people don't train to do headshots, they tend to train in order to be able to land rounds on the torso area of the human body most of the time. Heads bob, weave, and move around and are also smaller targets and therefore more difficult to accurately hit than a center mass shot. And if you can't hit a human head at 400 yards or further away, you can forget about hitting them in the face or eyes at that distance. Not only that but felt recoil, drag, air resistance, and bullet drop are very much against you in any combat scenario. Bullets also have a tendency to be way off target sometimes, you could be aiming for center mass and just miss them by a few inches or feet or bust their left shoulder. The reason I went with the idea of a mini shield mounted on the forearm is let's say I'm wearing my helmet and there's a .500 Magnum coming in hot and it gets deflected off the upper part of the helmets dome and immediately after seeing the direction the bullet came from I raise my forearm and put the mini shield directly in front of my face to block subsequent shots. I'm not worried about a shot coming from the side or behind me as there will be plenty of armor back there to protect me plus the dense foam and air bag combination for a padding system that should greatly reduce or eliminate the risk of blunt force trauma and traumatic brain injury entirely. I may consider a camera system for the mini shield connected to an IPhone screen behind the mini shield so I can see while my face and eyes are behind the safety of the shield. The mini shield will be about the same size and dimensions as a 10x12 SAPI plate for a chest rig and only designed to protect my face and eyes from headshots.

​@@nemesisobsidian I really like the idea of replacing the lenses. Maybe a jank down and pull or many other possible designs. That´s detailed work, but again, UX. It should be intuitive to duck/cover, slide [down | other direction], and pull it out. I'm sure there are better ideas for that. The dimensions are great. Remember I'm using the metric system, BTW. I have to convert units to 'see them'. The narrow slits it's a neat idea. Using geometry this time in your favor. You sacrifice very little visibility and add a lot of protection that way. Also, those could act as light absorbers in cases where there's a lot of sun. Consider the [heat|cold] and the average time of helmet use. There are some substances and paints that can help you to absorb heat or disperse it. Event to put it to some use. These lenses are natural insulators, too. Regarding padding and even an airbag, it's great; it really can save lives. Your armor can be great, but still, a hit will be like a kick from a mule to the head. So, even without BFD, that kinetic energy has to be absorbed or countered. One good thing is that the amount of energy to disperse is known (you can look it up). Also, for simplicity, just one shot to the head, say, right-side-up, the right hemisphere of our brain. Ignoring the accumulative trauma | degradation of the armor by getting shot repeatedly in the head (ding! ding! ding! ding!)... One shot. Then, could you give the operator some estimated time to recuperate? You could also experiment with non-Newtonian fluids, which are capable of getting strong with fast kinetic energy, especially if they are planar in nature. Nah. It is not a good idea. But anyway, it can help to consider it for interior padding, too. It will get rigid with a sudden impact but can help to soften it if properly managed. Or it can be a disaster and a horrible idea. Standard training and defensive shooting will always go for the center of mass. Yes, you can't create a shield like a bubble. Like tanks, the strong and face-the-enemy part is the Front. Enough to absorb some power rounds, mainly from sustained medium caliber ammunition. This would be more effective. NOT Special AP ammo, with special tips. Those are edge cases. Keep iterating! Cheers,

Agreed, it definitely would have helped having a true frame.

​@@3RBallisticswas curious where you got the annealed glass from? Hard to find any thick sheets locally, thanks for the videos

@@Sinister_Reaper I actually picked up the glass from a construction site for free. They were shower wall panels that they were going to be throwing away. Most non tempered glass is just plain (soda-lime) annealed glass.

It would work as long as it’s polycarbonate added to the existing vehicle window. I actually have a video I’m working on added 1/2 inch polycarbonate to existing car window to make it bullet resistant.

I have multiple samples outside right now. Unfortunately they’ve only been out there about 2 weeks. Maybe in a year or so I will do an update.

Thin polycarbonate will elongate much more than thick polycarbonate. The failure mode of thick polycarbonate will usually plug out as where multiple thin pieces of polycarbonate will stretch further than breaking through.