Well I'd just plasti-dip it or spray liberally with flex seal

Yeah i made the same plates with Multiple layers of Mesh backed Wall Tiles, Resin & Fiberglass Welding blanket for s&g. I coated the front of the tile with multiple layers of Resin and fiberglass and then sealed everything in with multiple coats of Rhino Lining and it actually stop’s multiple hits of .308 & 5.56 M-855 as long as its not in a compromised spot. But it will stop 2 shots of regular 5.56 FMJ in the same spot. I had absolutely ZERO SPLASH or SPALLING even on edge shots. Took it apart and all pieces were stopped by the fiberglass and didn’t even make it to the coating. It’s actually not to much heavier than a Tacticon Steel Plate. So yes your idea is absolutely spot on and imo 100% necessary to make a safe and effective plate.

can you show a video plz, your method looks like its gonna work better in paper.@@JoeyOutlaw

Yeah I was gonna say linex or flex seal.

Right? That Spalding would mess up your day

Do you think half inch porcelain tile (front) and 3/8th inch mild steel (backing) would stop rifle rounds certainly? What two materials combined guarantee a rifle rating.

steel would be too weak and heavy for a plate with a lot of heavy tile already. Also the tile does the bulk of the work by absorbing all of the kinetic energy from the bullet.

​​@@srj6963wrapped in fiberglass, certainly. Physics is cool but depending on your weight/thickness preference and tolerance, you can adjust as you see fit to make yourself more comfortable. If I'm worried about rifle rounds coming at me, I don't mind a little thicker plate 😂 You want thicker steel than ceramic though generally speaking. That's why things like HDPE are catching attention cuz they help with weight and are incredibly strong.

That's what I made my plates out of and they are probably 20 ish pounds each but I'm sure they can stop anything short of black tip

We do use A/R glass fiber as well as HD glass fiber in a low 2% dosage.

Would it be feasible to have the tiles inlaid flush into a steel grid framework? Where the steel would maybe provide some reinforcement at the edges of the tiles? Or would that reduce energy dispersion and tile durability?

Yeah, I’m missing the conclusion. What is the best, at what cost price

Ive done it. 5mm doesn't stop much. 10mm stops 7.62x39 and 556. Im not a fan of bedliner. I just wrap one more layer of fiberglass over the strike face and glue both sides, so that it contains the ceramic.

@@evansaw293 thanks for the info

​@@evansaw293English is not my first language bro but do you mean literally one layer of cut woven roving fiberglass or do you mean another fiberglass plate? Thank you in advance!

@@thewakandaconnection3743 one layer of fiberglass. Just to hold it all together. It doesn't add to ballistic preformance

​@@evansaw293legend! Thanks for the fast reply👊🏽

This is just for entertainment but the clay backing should give a representation of blunt force for reference. I’ll look to see if force transfer sensors are a viable option as well.

Bingo! I've always wondered about different combinations of materials and what would make the optimum homemade plate. Seeingbas i have 30 other unfinished projects, im glad other people are doing it

I used the press method.

While granite is one of the hardest natural stones, it still falls a little short of even store bought porcelain tile in terms of hardness. The other problem is granite has a very weak fracture point. Initial projectile impact propagates cracks faster than the movement of the projectile. All that being said, I’ve still tested granite and marble just because I had samples of them and I will say granite is much better at slowing down and breaking up projectiles than marble.

@@3RBallistics I used to be a CNC srone router peogrammer and operator and have cut both, so I know their properties. Granite is hard and durable, especially the darker varieties. But marble is soft crap; pretty, but pourous and lacking strength

So wrap it in linex or flex seal. Will keep the damage contained, keep it from falling out all over the place.

Now that sounds interesting. I have something similar I’m trying but not in a fiberglass matrix. I believe fiberglass might be better suited for something like a modified strike face.

That’s would be nice. For now, I’m planning on making my own torso mold and see how it works. Maybe I’ll make a video of the process because it might work but also might fail.

😂😂😂

does that bond or does it just make it sandstone?

You have to mix it into the water don't try to mix it into the powder because that takes an enormous amount of mixing to get a homogeneous mixture so you add the graphene to the water and mix it thoroughly and then add the water to the concrete mixture. You'll get a homogeneous mixture of the graphene into the concrete which should increase the strength by 25% depending on how much graphene you add and the quality of the graphene.

I have something very similar to this as a strike face to a rifle rated plate.

Probably so but I fear that would add too much weight. I might give that a try and find out.

Noticed that, too. Sounded like that when I had a pneumothorax

I added a little glass fiber reinforcement. I also used a little steel fiber reinforcement. I’m thinking is was just to weak of a concrete mixture. I have more on the concrete mixtures in a video next month.

@@jim8228 I have tested carbon fiber panels thick and as a hybrid with Kevlar and unfortunately it’s not much better than paper and at its price it doesn’t really make it a viable alternative.

Yes, I have a video going over the process of mixing GFRC in another video. I’m almost done letting the next round of concrete cure for the next tests. This one will really show the importance of w/c ratios, additives and reinforcement materials.

@@3RBallistics very cool

The gaps are a problem though but those can be filled with ground up Nokia's

I think I’ll try this. I’m wrapping up a project with bed liner and this might make a good comparison video. I have some smooth cast 300 I was going to use but can substitute in onyx resin.

@3RBallistics I noticed on a couple trys with that Onyx it set differently than usual. Like it got hotter and once set it was closer to a glass than a plastic. I don't know what the hell I'm doing so I don't know what I did. In that case the Onyx would chip out just like glass. All the other times it came out like those old hard rubber 1911 grips. Hard to describe. SmoothOn also has some industrial resin impregnated with aluminum with high temp capabilities and strong enough for tool fixtures, metal forms, and actual mechanical parts. 655 I think? Don't know anything about it really. It's probably stupid expensive but it sounds like fun. I'll be watching for future videos. Good luck!

@@hardstylelife5749 yes, I’ve tested polycarbonate extensively. Almost every homemade bullet resistant glass videos I have contains some polycarbonate in them. Here’s a link to one of the videos kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fdiTateYmKiVmYk.htmlsi=jNnhEJePVFMDLz_N

Is was 15mm tile so just over half inch.

​​@@3RBallisticstwo layers or just one?

@@brianyovicsonplumbing2118 just one 15mm tile.

Ahhhh. Thats how it stopped 308. I use half that and stop 556 and 7.62x39, but never 308.

​@@evansaw293Interesting! What is your plate made of? 25 layers of 18oz / yard² (610g/m²) fiberglass and a 7,5mm (1/7 inch) plate of porcelain? And this is enough to stop 5.56?

I’m building that next 👍

Lol

If I get hit, I’m pretty sure they know where I am 😵

They already know your position since you got shot !

The best design from the test was the tile and fiberglass plate. It successfully stopped 7.62x39, 5.56, and 7.62x51 (.308) rounds. This combination proved to be the most effective in terms of stopping power, outperforming the other designs made from fiberglass and resin, as well as concrete. The tile and fiberglass plate's ability to handle multiple hits and high-velocity rounds made it the most robust and reliable option tested. In the KZfaq video, the creator tests homemade Level III rifle-rated body armor plates made from fiberglass, tile, concrete, and resin. The fiberglass and resin plate failed against 7.62x39 and 5.56 rounds. The concrete plate also failed. The tile and fiberglass plate successfully stopped 7.62x39, 5.56, and even 7.62x51 (.308), but failed against 30-06 and armor-piercing rounds. The AR500 steel plate with Kevlar backer was also tested, but results were inconclusive due to previous damage. The video concludes with plans for future bulletproof glass testing and collaborations. The tile and fiberglass plate was constructed using the following method: 1. **Materials Used**: - **Fiberglass**: 18-ounce woven roving fiberglass. - **Tile**: Thick porcelain tile. 2. **Construction Process**: - **Layers**: 25 layers of the woven roving fiberglass were pressed together. - **Size**: The resulting plate measured 10 by 12 inches with a Shooters cut. - **Tile Placement**: The tile was cut into shapes and placed in front of the fiberglass layers to allow for multiple hits. This combination of materials and construction method provided effective protection against various high-velocity rounds.

To estimate the weight of the tile and fiberglass plate, we'll break down the components: ### Materials: 1. **Fiberglass Layers**: - **25 layers** of 18-ounce woven roving fiberglass. - **Weight per layer**: 18 ounces (1.125 pounds). - **Total weight for fiberglass**: \( 25 \times 1.125 = 28.125 \) pounds. 2. **Porcelain Tile**: - **Assumed size**: Standard 10 by 12 inches. - **Estimated weight**: Porcelain tile thickness and density can vary, but a 12x12 inch tile typically weighs around 3-5 pounds. ### Total Estimated Weight: - **Fiberglass**: 28.125 pounds. - **Tile**: Approximately 4 pounds (average of the typical weight range). ### Combined Weight: - **Total weight**: \( 28.125 + 4 = 32.125 \) pounds. This estimate suggests that the plate would be quite heavy, around 32 pounds. This is considerably heavier than typical body armor plates, which are designed to balance protection with weight.

Not a bad idea and worth trying but you face many complications. Weight and especially thickness would be major issues not manufacturing.

@@3RBallistics I realize what you're saying. I basically said the same thing in my original post. Upon further thought however, it might be worth considering maybe a full "V" shaped plate instead of smaller individual pyramids. The ridge of the "V", the thickest part, running parralell, from upper chest down to belly, and slanting backwards around the rib cage area. That will at least have some deflective qualities I believe. Again though...where would the deflected projectile end up? In an arm possibly? Again, not an ideal outcome. The whole concept needs to be tested to truly answer that question.

@@BuckleUpPansies agreed 👍. I might make both plates just to see the difference in deflection. I’d have to cook up some ballistic gel or something to catch the fragmentation.

@@3RBallistics Game on my friend. Interested to see what the melding of our collective talents produces. 🤓🤓 Will be watching your channel to follow your progress. Good luck! 🤞🤞🤞

Have you looked into ceramic beads the same stuff used on the outside of the space shuttle?

Thats true. I was just trying to keep the weight down as much as possible. However, I may need to re-build these plates and do another test with more fiberglass reinforcement.

@@3RBallistics I would imagine the fiberglass composite is less dense than ceramics or concrete. Probably similarly dense to the epoxy on its own? I'm not sure. I would suspect that if you made a plate that was just fiberglass that was the same thickness as the plates with concrete or ceramic tile, the weight would be a bit less and the strength might be comparable. It might be worth testing different plates holding thickness or weight constant to see which combination of fiberglass thickness and various other layers proves the strongest and/or lightest

@@3RBallistics Totally in agreement here, and efficiency is key: lowest weight that gets the work done, keeps the attacked safe(r) and mobile. That said, if a lower weight is allowing a fatal bullet entrance to a vital organ, then a bit/more heavier protection would hands-down be preferred. ;)

Yes, bigger berm. I’ve been working on the range when time allows.

And how’s that? Many current rifle rated body armor plates use ceramic pieces instead of a single ceramic piece for the strike face. Granted, the gaps on these homemade ones will be slightly larger than commercially available ones but still smaller than allowed by most manufacturers.

@@3RBallistics hahaha ya “slightly larger” .. stick to your day job

@@ImThatGuyouMan It’s all part of the learning. But I agree with you and definitely plan of staying with my day job 👍

😆 Yes hombre, there are very very minor differences, like case pressures. I also know the .308 Winchester measures 7.62x51 per SAMI specs, wait what!? Please enlighten me on which .308 round is used by NATO? Or better yet, which is the best penetrating .308 round? The fact remains the bi-metal M80 is better at penetrating performance than any .308 Win factory load out there. And in case you were confused, the same exact dimensional bullet comes out of both which is what I was referring to in the video.

Clearly you don’t understand that weight is the biggest factor I was dealing with. Tile and steel would equal a plate in excess of 10 pounds…. DUH 🙄

Слава Україні!

I have those rounds too if you’d like to see them stop those as well. However, I try to keep my testing and terminology consistent with NIJ standards.

I have those rounds too if you’d like to see them stop those as well. However, I try to keep my testing and terminology consistent with NIJ standards.

@@3RBallistics Cheers, this is more clear to me now I have watched more thankyou for taking the time to clarify this personally much appreciated.

Yes, you can. But you would have something that would be thicker and heavier than conventional body armor.