Are climbing gyms in Japan just... better?

  Рет қаралды 89,192

Anna Hazelnutt

Anna Hazelnutt

Ай бұрын

Score a FREE Brush & Tape with any Chalk Bucket & Bag bundle! 🚀 Use Code: “ANNABUNDLE” - Shop now! ▶︎ rungne.info/AHII
How hard would you climb here?
1:22 Japan grading scale explained
1:40 8 kyuu/ V0-
1:48 7 kyuu/ V0
2:19 6 kyuu/ V0
2:44 5 kyuu/ V1
4:18 4 kyuu/ V2
5:17 3 kyuu/ V3
9:54 2 kyuu/ V4
15:56 (world cup wall)
Extra thanks to Emile from @HoopersBeta for being an amazing travel partner in Japan and for filming this video! 🙏🏽
#bpump #japanbouldering #gymcomparison

Пікірлер: 194
@PPKFilms
@PPKFilms Ай бұрын
Basically only the people who climb at b-pump can use the “v2 in my gym” line
@gingobingo1567
@gingobingo1567 Ай бұрын
Ye this is next level sandbagging
@SUM1518
@SUM1518 Ай бұрын
@@gingobingo1567 I think some commercial gyms in the US are more soft than how much is sandbagged in Japan. I feel EU is a sweetspot, at least consistent with outdoor grades.
@miriamjones4077
@miriamjones4077 Ай бұрын
@@SUM1518 It’s interesting how the grading seems to shift around the world and from gym to gym. I recently went to bpump and climbed the red “SoCal V7” in the video. I thought it was around V5 if you use my local gyms grading system in Australia, and it’s V3 at bpump! 😂 That grade difference is crazy, just shows how useless it is talking about grades sometimes, and how the same number can mean very different things to very different people depending on their experiences.
@ondrejnevelik7338
@ondrejnevelik7338 Ай бұрын
try Adam Ondra's gym Kotelna in Brno - some of the 7A are closer to 7C moonboard benchmarks :D
@vit4mint685
@vit4mint685 Ай бұрын
The effort put into the sponsorship bit is always a highlight in your videos.
@pixelcrust
@pixelcrust Ай бұрын
i always skip it, in every video... the amount of overpriced stuff that is being advertised is just stupid, if spotify or google or something would advertise as heavily the opinion would be a little different
@Yakushii
@Yakushii Ай бұрын
@@pixelcrust Completely agree. I like Magnus, and I like a lot of these climbers that are now being sponsored by Rungne. But the price of that stuff is atrocious. By all means, get that bag. I'm not hating in that sense. But it's not worth the price. Any chalk bag will do.
@pixelcrust
@pixelcrust Ай бұрын
im not hating on anna for taking the sponsorship deal
@UltimateMajor
@UltimateMajor Ай бұрын
@@Yakushii luxury brands have never been worth it for pure functionality. That's not what people buy them for - ofcourse any standard stuff will do. I think everyone knows they're paying a premium for an assurance of quality, bunch of QOL improvements, sustainable development as well as prestige. Certainly seems worth the price to me over mass produced stuff from china etc
@taylor3950
@taylor3950 Ай бұрын
@@UltimateMajor yeah like the bag is well-made and pretty. If you’ve got the money why not?
@lukedavies900
@lukedavies900 Ай бұрын
Climbing in Japan is like climbing at the School Room in Sheffield except it's the whole country. If you want your ego smacked down in the interest of learning, it's the best.
@samuelprescott7426
@samuelprescott7426 Ай бұрын
Outdoor boulder grades are pretty variable in the UK but I found the ones in the Peaks to be pretty stiff generally, but I liked it (and have no qualms)
@mnoplbnaikj
@mnoplbnaikj Ай бұрын
I really loved your enthusiasm about the "easier" climbs, it's a breath of fresh air to see a beast of a climber actively enjoy climbs that are supposed to be way under your flash level. That's what B-pump does to you! I've been there a few times and it truly lives up to the hype
@litehawk
@litehawk Ай бұрын
Interesting factoid, Japan grades climbs based upon the martial art ranking system. So thats why they go down and back up, for the grades counting down towards black belt then counting back up for each degree of black belt, the Kyu and Dan ranking systems if you want to Google for more.
@ReaperUnreal
@ReaperUnreal Ай бұрын
I guess it's true, just ignore the grade and enjoy the climbing. I'm definitely adding b-pump ogikubo to the list of places to go.
@babylonbroken1601
@babylonbroken1601 Ай бұрын
holy crap Anna. Never thought id see anyone other than Internet comment etiquette make sponsor bits something genuinely enjoyable to watch. your editing skills have got so good so fast.
@CrisisDesired
@CrisisDesired Ай бұрын
Nice reference to Erik!
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Thank you!!! I like to have fun with the sponsor segments. I feel like they're my way to be extra creative outside of the climbing content!
@jeannemattson2012
@jeannemattson2012 Ай бұрын
11:40 "im gonna try this one cause its a LITTLE more my style" comes off overhang slopers and goes to slab crimps.
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
🤭
@EricSatoTokyo
@EricSatoTokyo Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt Oh! Nice flash, but sorry, at Bpump Ogikubo (my home gym), volumes are not on for all climbs. The Blue volume you used as a foot was only for the Blue holds climb next to it =( (which is consequently also a 2kyu). Doesn't look like you needed it though! =) just a small bump up.
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
@@EricSatoTokyo Don't worry I didn't use the volume :) there are two little notex foot chips right near it that are pink that I'm teetering on! Proper flash.
@ST-vt4nu
@ST-vt4nu Ай бұрын
The amount of holds per wall in japanese gyms is just nuts. My brain can't process it 😅 And this one isnt even that bad
@burnsbabe87
@burnsbabe87 Ай бұрын
Land values are through the roof in populated areas. Gotta get as much into the small space as you can.
@SachaGreif
@SachaGreif Ай бұрын
Don't google Volny Climbing then…
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
I really liked the density!! It kinda makes every wall a spray wall too which is nice if you're like me and enjoy "setting" outdoor cruxes on indoor sets for practice.
@SachaGreif
@SachaGreif Ай бұрын
@JonaasK yeah, when I first started climbing here in Japan the norm was 1) super dense walls 2) use tape for problems instead of hold colors 3) reset entire gym once a year. Things have changed a lot since, more and more gyms are adopting a more "modern" system
@MiguelClimbs
@MiguelClimbs Ай бұрын
Great vid guys! I was at this gym about 5 years ago and had so much fun. Yes, I got shut down like crazy, so it was cool seeing you and Emile get shut down by this style too haha! Climbing here will invariably get you stronger though. 💪 Pretty sick that you unlocked time travel too. Wasn't expecting that 🕜
@RedMountain111
@RedMountain111 Ай бұрын
Great video! Thanks for noting the color grades and your estimations throughout the video; it helped give some perspective to the climbs.
@noodlebanana7512
@noodlebanana7512 Ай бұрын
Thank you so much for showing the whole range! Your videos always leave me so relaxed and happy :)
@drkwrk5229
@drkwrk5229 Ай бұрын
That mindset is so good! Positive response from being challenged hard is such a treat to experience
@Djapchan
@Djapchan Ай бұрын
Anna, thank you. The last video I was watching about b-pump was basically all complaints about how hard and frustrating it was and I have no idea of how much truth was in your words (I mean video work is always a bit play pretend, isn't it) but I loved the mindset you are showing. Just like Louis would phrase it - 'that looks like fun to try' - not necessarily - oh, I should be able to do this, this feels unfair etc. Loved you saying how strong you could get by staying there longer - really inspiring and why I love watching your videos! Thank you!
@EmileModesitt
@EmileModesitt Ай бұрын
The mindset you approach climbing with is so key. Curious-playful mindset leads to experimentation, fun, and growth. “I should be able to do this” mindset leads to ego-induced disappointment. Anna is great at doing the former :)
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
@@EmileModesitt Aww thanks Emile!! You're good at this too! It can be hard but it's definitely the right mindset for me. Especially with how much I travel, understanding that different countries have different styles and grades helps me have more fun
@whc1370
@whc1370 Ай бұрын
love the happy energy in this video!
@JalealBennett
@JalealBennett Ай бұрын
Wow!! This just really shows the difference between the training mentality within the States VS Japan…so fun to see you getting hyped on all those climbs!! Also, that slab is pretty sexy!
@matteobecchi1210
@matteobecchi1210 Ай бұрын
You look so happy in this video! :D amazing boulders.
@uynijvmusic
@uynijvmusic Ай бұрын
Really loved the edit at 11:35 and music choice!!
@adventureawaits6923
@adventureawaits6923 Ай бұрын
That gym looks sick! Dope video!
@coisavioleta
@coisavioleta Ай бұрын
Great video Anna! Seeing you, who is so great at slab, get shut down on the comp slabs just underscores how amazing some of the great comp slab climbers are.
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Yes!! The comp slabs are so unique and dynamic, it feels like I would learn so much by climbing there!! I'm such a static/outdoor slab girlie
@tenfiveinthegrass
@tenfiveinthegrass Ай бұрын
really enjoyed this one
@merklyyyy
@merklyyyy Ай бұрын
B-PUMP Ogikubo ROCKS! I feel so validated watching this
@Jenny-ge8eh
@Jenny-ge8eh Ай бұрын
OMG I am so early here this time! EXCITED!😍😍😍
@mystishio
@mystishio Ай бұрын
That's some awesome setting! And hard!😮
@seanmcguire61
@seanmcguire61 Ай бұрын
Well thought out and executed advertisement, very cool to be that well traveled 🤘🏼
@rusk3986
@rusk3986 Ай бұрын
I love this so much I could watch this all day. Please move to Japan so I can watch you get better at these insane slabs 😂
@dsluna
@dsluna Ай бұрын
Loved the smooth and really Japanese edition! I went to Japan and B-Pump not a long ago and it was pretty funny seeing your faces after squeezing all your muscles for a V3. Thanks for this video
@aznfoever35
@aznfoever35 Ай бұрын
feels like a lot of climbing youtubers went to Japan recently
@bennordstrom
@bennordstrom Ай бұрын
really fun to see you climb at my home gym! I hope you enjoyed it and your trip to tokyo!
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Absolutely LOVED Tokyo! Genuinely considering moving there for a few weeks or even a month just for the gyms!
@bennordstrom
@bennordstrom Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt I'm glad to hear it! I hope you can come back sometime for more :)
@kenjik8588
@kenjik8588 Ай бұрын
Welcome to Japan! wanted to see you at B-pump Ogikubo!
@milkymat
@milkymat Ай бұрын
Looks sick climbing in Japan, setting seems really creative
@ryangross5446
@ryangross5446 Ай бұрын
Awesome video Anna! I really want to climb at B-Pump at some point, it seems like its just my style haha
@CookieCreamCrumble
@CookieCreamCrumble Ай бұрын
proud of you anna for pushing yourself outside of your static comfort zone!
@lui5gif
@lui5gif 20 күн бұрын
Halloween short story time with Anna, classic trope of the flashlight illuminating from underneath "... and the slabs... were all dynamic!"
@zomb1ecube
@zomb1ecube Ай бұрын
This is how you make an advert to keep your audience entertained and stopping them from skipping it. Excellent work. I'm also enjoying the video =)
@TRD_Kyle
@TRD_Kyle Ай бұрын
My US gym recently hosted some guest setters from a gym in Japan. They were able to set problems in a few of the sections in full Japaneses style and grading and then colab'd with our setters on some other sets to spice up US style. I was so stoked to get one 2 kyuu so far being they had it as the 3rd hardest of 8 tapes thinking it was probably like v7ish that my gym normally sets... Look up the conversion and it's like v4 lol. It has been really fun to have a taste of Japan here at home.
@AlexHamilton86
@AlexHamilton86 Ай бұрын
Great placement advert! Also, greetings from Yorkshire!
@LadyLaddy
@LadyLaddy Ай бұрын
Such an excellent video
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
It’s super fun! Just put ego aside (and any expectation) and you’re sure to have a good time
@catrintornqvist1922
@catrintornqvist1922 Ай бұрын
Cool video!
@BlackSpiderPro
@BlackSpiderPro Ай бұрын
Sick video, Anna! I loved when you sent that dynamic jump into the catch, it was sick! Also, no shot that black one is a V4, that's ridiculous. Japanese gradings seems wayy harder than western.
@SachaGreif
@SachaGreif Ай бұрын
Japan uses a different grading system, and I'm not sure people put that much effort into accurately figuring out the equivalent V-scale grade… and add to that that even within the Japanese system, grades vary wildly from one gym to the next - to say nothing of outdoors, where everything seems at least 1-2 grades harder compared to the same grade indoors.
@notnao
@notnao Ай бұрын
@@SachaGreif I climb at B-pump gyms and the supposed V-grades equivalencies are the ones the B-pump gyms have themselves on their grade chart. I'm not sure how they decided it, though, and as you say, the grades even within the Japanese grades can vary from gym to gym... (Ogikubo 4kyu is harder than Akihabara 4kyu.)
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Yes! We also went to Akihabara and the grades were much different. Emile and I were able to climb much closer to our outdoor grade level (harder than V4 haha)
@BC128
@BC128 Ай бұрын
Oh u made B-pump ogikubo so fun! I've always wanted to try this place whenever I'm there but it's so scary too!
@romainnemo6423
@romainnemo6423 Ай бұрын
Great video as usual, but god, best shirt ever 🎉
@AlmightyUniden
@AlmightyUniden Ай бұрын
For me, having a proper training area is essential if I'm ever going to sign up for a gym on the long term. For getting stronger of course, but also since I've been dealing with a recent wrist tendon injury, it's been so important to get warmed up correctly at a much lower weight than my bodyweight can provide. Their gym looks really fun tho! I'm not sure if I'll ever be a ''comp climber'' but having so much variety can only do good
@colemantrebor6574
@colemantrebor6574 Ай бұрын
You could still warmup on some of the easier climbs. If most your weight is on your feet then you're a lot lower than bodyweight. You could also just use every hold available to warm up
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
I brought my bands to warm up a little, and then treated it like I would if I were climbing outside. I did some pulls on my Tindeq (use the code HAZELNUTT if you wanna get one #shamelessplug) and made sure to warm up on easier climbs. It was a bit odd not to have hangboards but there are definitely ways around it!
@juliannap6878
@juliannap6878 Ай бұрын
Actually really liked the ad. Made me wanna check out the chalk bags
@stephendaedalus7841
@stephendaedalus7841 Ай бұрын
You always have the best ads 😂
@Brokenboost
@Brokenboost Ай бұрын
That ad break was chef's kiss.
@AA-nx8zy
@AA-nx8zy Ай бұрын
Very well made video, pacing is nice, climbing nice, humans nice. Good stuuuuuffff
@JonHayes92
@JonHayes92 Ай бұрын
In normally skip the ‘sponsor’ sections of videos but yours was actually quite funny, really working for the sponsorship 😆
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
mama needs her bread 😤
@jonathanlin66
@jonathanlin66 Ай бұрын
japan bouldering is so good and i loved it when i was there. I would say the grades scaled similarly to us gyms you just have to convert v6 to like v2/3 and similarly to other boulders. but the boulders are all so good and interesting. hoping to go back one day!
@jonathanlin66
@jonathanlin66 Ай бұрын
and another factor too is the kids there are like ninjas. some of even those red tapes are so dynamic and committing if you are like 4'5 and these kids are attacking the big moves with such confidence. its so unlike the US and so refreshing
@harrisons8127
@harrisons8127 Ай бұрын
I love your videos! I have a video idea. Could you please make a video explaining how to read a route! It would help me lots.
@EricSatoTokyo
@EricSatoTokyo Ай бұрын
There is also black tape holds at bpump (the infamous Black Tape), which is a 3d, and typically set for Yoshiyuki Ogata, Shion Omata, and other local World Cup climbers. Janja was there the other day forerunning the 2d (light green tape). =).
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Sooo wild! I didn't even realize! What a cool gym.
@cradleofgoth
@cradleofgoth Ай бұрын
I'd love to see Louis try this gym
@alexgalays910
@alexgalays910 Ай бұрын
Paris is similar in that not many gyms have a decent training area. a V10 in SF is like a V5 in Tokyo hehe.
@oleshikaru
@oleshikaru Ай бұрын
looks like v9000 in my gym. great video!
@implausibleduck
@implausibleduck Ай бұрын
Loved this video. So cool. Desperate to go to Tokyo and get completely shutdown now!
@MF-CLIMB
@MF-CLIMB Ай бұрын
Some of the smaller gyms have so many climbs so close together that it can be very confusing! The B-Pump gyms were the only ones I found that were easy to understand from a European gym climber. One thing to mention is that you have to sign up to each gym (paying a new member fee) so it can be expensive if you want to have a quick session! The Lead walls in Japan are where it's at! so good!
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
OMG where is the best lead facility??
@MF-CLIMB
@MF-CLIMB Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt very sadly Pump Osaka closed in 2020 and that was the best! But for other lead climbing places check out climbing bum in Osaka (seriously that’s its name haha) and then there’s Climb Park Base Camp which I think the god Yuji Hirayama owns!
@EstudioKitchin
@EstudioKitchin Ай бұрын
omg UHEUHEUHEUHE the video is amazing and the sponsorship part made me laugh so much
@SpaceBotany
@SpaceBotany Ай бұрын
Do you need the Rungne chalk bucket in order to time travel or can it be done with just the Magdust alone? I wanna see the eclipse again.
@lovis_hertel
@lovis_hertel Ай бұрын
Hey Anna, if you ever come to Germany to do some sports climbing in Franconia you should definitely come visit the gym I work at (rockinn Wuerzburg) im sure I could arrange for you to be able to climb before/ after opening hours to make the filming easy ;) we have a lot of dynamic boulders and most of the time there are also 2-3 cracks on the wall, I have a couple of them uploaded on my second channel if you wanna see
@krollthemagician
@krollthemagician Ай бұрын
Good Video
@-masteryoda
@-masteryoda Ай бұрын
14:45 Albert Ok also has a great video talking about why Japanese climbers are so strong.
@AB-fh9zh
@AB-fh9zh Ай бұрын
woa, that chalk is impressive.
@mireillebx4063
@mireillebx4063 Ай бұрын
I feel like anna's spirit animal on that pink (blue tag) slab is a mountain goat.
@brettschmidt5706
@brettschmidt5706 Ай бұрын
Came for the climbing, stayed for the shakuhachi lo-fi
@danielc3332
@danielc3332 Ай бұрын
Audio quality was too high to call it lo-fi
@mla3245
@mla3245 Ай бұрын
bet your sponsor loooves the transition! it's cute
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
They're psyched
@86larsonrd
@86larsonrd Ай бұрын
They use Kyu and Dan for ratings just like in Go! So cool.
@arturwob
@arturwob Ай бұрын
I believe there is another level at that gym, that´s just not displayed on their grade chart, which are the black tape boulders. (like the red one at 09:58 ) But that´s also supporting that they have more and harder problems or at least more options at that level
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Oh I totally missed this! That makes sense, and wow that just puts the grades even more into perspective! We were getting shut down around halfway haha. So awesome to have a gym filled with this much difficult climbing
@Seize_machine
@Seize_machine Ай бұрын
I have always wanted to go to Japan.
@_mvan
@_mvan Ай бұрын
The chart they showed me when I was at bpump a few months ago converted white (3Q) to V4 and light blue (2Q) to V5/6, 1Q to V7 and 1D to V8/9 etc slightly less insane but still steep grading :)
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Oh that's super interesting! I just used a conversion chart I found online
@SoaringDragonStrike
@SoaringDragonStrike Ай бұрын
Didn't expect to hear Macaroom in the intro. 😮
@MailoSvetel
@MailoSvetel Ай бұрын
Have you tried some walls there? With selfbelaying maybe? I found just one in Tokio and it had just one device 😔
@jchoi5488
@jchoi5488 Ай бұрын
How long do they keep these routes on the wall? The holds look grimy lol
@demsla
@demsla Ай бұрын
I hope you ate some ramen in Ogikubo, several great shops there
@saemj
@saemj Ай бұрын
the kiu / dan system is common in for example Karate or the board game Go
@denislantsman7254
@denislantsman7254 Ай бұрын
Interesting also that the density is so high. Is that just B-Pump or all Japanese gyms? I really think it makes it so much easier to project climbs and make easier/more challenging variations on various movements.
@EmileModesitt
@EmileModesitt Ай бұрын
Definitely not all Japanese gyms. Some of the others we/I visited were more "normal" density (relative to what we're used to in the US). Totally agree though; high density gym sets is such a better approach.
@marka.6879
@marka.6879 Ай бұрын
The setting and difficulty looks great! It does look really dirty though. I wonder how often they reset or wash the holds.
@kazetoashioto
@kazetoashioto Ай бұрын
I like B-PUMP Ogikubo. The best climbing gym in Tokyo!
@Yakushii
@Yakushii Ай бұрын
They have slabs. What more do you need?
@AmroNaddy
@AmroNaddy Ай бұрын
It’s a super large gym considering Tokyo real estate must be so expensive… I can understand the need to cram the walls full of holds to maximize space
@fredgarvin316
@fredgarvin316 Ай бұрын
I've never seen someone have so much fun being shutdown! It's a cultural thing with Japanese boulders. They are strongest I have seen in general, it's got to be hard to set in gyms there!
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
I knew I had to have a shift in mindset for this gym, I was prepared! I think it really shows a cultural difference in how people react to getting shut down too. If this gym were in the states, I’m not sure people would handle it so well. But in Japan, everyone is just like “yup I got shut down, next!”
@mikej243
@mikej243 Ай бұрын
New found respect for Pewdiepie breaking through Japanese V4 after just a year of climbing.
@ruslankireev6421
@ruslankireev6421 Ай бұрын
He climbs in the softest gym, Noborock
@boogaloo4640
@boogaloo4640 Ай бұрын
He also claimed to be doing 500kg pullups. I wouldn't take too much notice of his claims, tbh
@jorgikjorgik
@jorgikjorgik Ай бұрын
Miss Anna🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉👍🏻🤗
@zekeviews
@zekeviews Ай бұрын
daaaang so this what "v1 in my gym" thing looks like
@enricokohler475
@enricokohler475 Ай бұрын
Ah so that's the gym where the V2 is that everyone is talking about;)
@CalvinBoulders
@CalvinBoulders Ай бұрын
Cutting feet on v0 is wild
@jingyangteoh685
@jingyangteoh685 Ай бұрын
v2 in my gym. The 6 kyuu that is
@TheXeeman
@TheXeeman Ай бұрын
what do you normally climb? v5-v6?
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Around V10 outdoors! Plus or minus depending on if it's my style.
@TheXeeman
@TheXeeman Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt holy shit
@Taykorjg
@Taykorjg Ай бұрын
Just a reminder that b pump has rental shoes
@NailsOeltjen
@NailsOeltjen Ай бұрын
Hey Anna. Have you ever wanted to climb in Tasmania?
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
What kinda climbing is there? 👀
@NailsOeltjen
@NailsOeltjen Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt the answer really is “what kind of climbing ISN’T there?”😊 The state is famous for dolorite columns (some on sea cliffs) but climbing is quite varied because of different geology within a relatively small area. And of course people come here for the stunning landscapes and other natural attractions. We’d love to have you ❤️
@jameslewis1960
@jameslewis1960 Ай бұрын
you are COOL! 🙂
@SiSi-rf8hj
@SiSi-rf8hj Ай бұрын
This is the gym the "V2-in-my-gym" guy must go to
@AlexeiDrummond
@AlexeiDrummond Ай бұрын
It looks like they are about 1 grade sandbagged compared to outdoor grades. Whereas the US gyms I have been to seem about 2 grades soft compared to outdoor grades. NZ gyms are also soft compared to outdoor grades.
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
I climb around v10 outdoors… and was climbing maybe v4 here. Feels like a bit of a stretch to say one grade sandbagged!
@AlexeiDrummond
@AlexeiDrummond Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt Sorry, I retract my silly comment :) Obviously looks can be deceiving :). I have only climbed V6 outdoors (and V7 indoors, whatever that means) so you would know a lot better than me! Everything I have seen on your channel suggests you are a fantastic climber. What I really meant was that my experience with North American gyms was that they are generally softly graded compared to outdoors,but that caused me to say something silly about Bpump!
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Haha you're good! In fairness, that's only in my style! Maybe I'm more of a V8 climber outdoors in my antistyle (which is mainly what I experienced in this gym) haha. I do agree that North American gyms grade softer, but also what people forget is that outdoor climbing is a bit of a different sport. Most people mainly climb indoors, so they see that their indoor level is higher than their outdoor level. Since I climb a lot outdoors, I often find the reverse to be true for me (I climb harder grades outside!)
@EmileModesitt
@EmileModesitt Ай бұрын
Woof
@pizzafunghi3537
@pizzafunghi3537 Ай бұрын
I don’t care whether a grading system is hard or easy, as long as it is consistent and the gym has a nice variety of climbs for me. When switching to outdoors, it is nice to have an idea what you are able to climb, but there are always other climbers to ask.
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
I also agree, it was nice that within this gym the grading was consistent. Across the B-Pumps I found it not to be as consistent, and neither gym we went to was comparable to outdoors either haha. But I feel like after a few climbs anywhere, indoors or out, you get the idea and can recalibrate
@BeautifulFreakful
@BeautifulFreakful Ай бұрын
so what you’re saying is that they’re actually using the outdoors V grade correctly haha
@Zaphod_
@Zaphod_ Ай бұрын
yas Slaaaaab Queen
@arcegajuanjos
@arcegajuanjos Ай бұрын
That rugme bag ad was so trippy!
@chewnip86
@chewnip86 Ай бұрын
WOW seems like i would be at a 5k level even tho im a v4 climber 😭
@jrwhisky
@jrwhisky Ай бұрын
You guys contact me (local guide in Hiroshima, Japan) if you want to see how sandbagged the outdoors is! We got 5.13 slabs but the 5.10s are even more terrifying. Don't even ask about the boulders sheesh
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
We bouldered outside! I actually didn’t find them too sandbagged! But Emile and I are used to Joshua tree grades so maybe we’re all just sandbaggers hehehe. Where is best to rope up outside in Japan?!
@jrwhisky
@jrwhisky Ай бұрын
@@AnnaHazelnutt I can't wait to see where that is! I can tell you that near Miyazaki in Mt. Hiei (比叡山) has a several multi pitches routes on a crag the local geezer climbers affectionately call: The Super Slab ! There isn't anything super difficult but it's 10 pitches of blank face wall
@Mousehansen
@Mousehansen 16 күн бұрын
Japanese boulders aren't more difficult than anywhere else, the grades feel equivalent to Europe and the US. There's a reason V16 (or equivalent) is basically the max worldwide. No matter how sandbagged Japanese gyms might be, at some level they even out. It's not like you have the top Japanese climbers climbing things that nobody else can.
@jrwhisky
@jrwhisky 16 күн бұрын
@@Mousehansen thank you for your response, yes, the grades do even out at the pro level, but that is beside the point here. I've gathered opinions from climbers all over Europe and America and the general consensus from 5.13a and below the sport grades are about 4 grades sand bagged and the boulders are about 3.(In Hiroshima) The closer you get to Tokyo the less sandbagged it gets. Mitake is famous for being soft for Japan yet compared to Joshua Tree is only slightly sandbagged.
@tstokyo7095
@tstokyo7095 Ай бұрын
Actually, orange tape is the fourth hardest in this gym, the hardest is black which is not shown on the scale. I may also add that orange tape is around pro female world cup level.
@AnnaHazelnutt
@AnnaHazelnutt Ай бұрын
Oh that’s interesting!! And that makes sense, the Orange tape climbs felt like my “project level” which is what I assume the incredibly strong women on the World Cup circuit are expected to flash 😅
#Klimbing
9:46
Dona
Рет қаралды 212
HOW are JAPANESE CLIMBERS SO GOOD?
13:50
Jonathan Sin 冼洛正 Climbing
Рет қаралды 115 М.
СҰЛТАН СҮЛЕЙМАНДАР | bayGUYS
24:46
bayGUYS
Рет қаралды 734 М.
ELE QUEBROU A TAÇA DE FUTEBOL
00:45
Matheus Kriwat
Рет қаралды 18 МЛН
Cute Barbie gadgets 🩷💛
01:00
TheSoul Music Family
Рет қаралды 72 МЛН
Why Japanese Climbers are so Incredible | Climbing Styles Ep.1
17:38
Hope.
18:04
Anna Hazelnutt
Рет қаралды 185 М.
Convincing A Pro Climber To Help Me Win My Local Competition ft. Stefano Ghisolfi
24:17
10 tips to fall better while climbing
8:01
harryhyuan
Рет қаралды 3,1 М.
Adam Ondra #5: Tokyo Training Trip 1/2
7:49
Adam Ondra
Рет қаралды 336 М.
6 COMMON Mistakes Climbers Make & How to Fix Them
30:30
Hannah Morris Bouldering
Рет қаралды 87 М.
Casually Explained: Rock Climbing
6:58
Casually Explained
Рет қаралды 3,7 МЛН
MOVEMENT LAB #1 |  Worldcup Insight
26:59
Alexander Megos
Рет қаралды 48 М.
B-Pump Ogikubo🇯🇵 HARDEST Climbing Gym EVER
22:30
Jonathan Sin 冼洛正 Climbing
Рет қаралды 100 М.
СҰЛТАН СҮЛЕЙМАНДАР | bayGUYS
24:46
bayGUYS
Рет қаралды 734 М.