Um.... Don't they all? If they don't ya ain't doin suttin right

Api threads are easy to machine. Premium connections can be a bigger challenge. I remember using 16 offsets to machine a connection with a double thread, tapered with a dovetail thread form in Inconel. £7000 for 1 connection

He's been doing this for over forty years...

Thanks! I like that very much. Unfortunately I am the boss and when I asked, he said no to a new machine.

Vielen Dank Dirk Glindemann!

May I ask why?

@@jmaks if the inside and outside don't run true to each other you won't get an accurate indication.

@@glenncerny8403 It's a 4 jaw chuck so it doesn't need to be perfectly concentric. He will be indicating the part anyways.

@@RobotArms24 I know that. You can run the jaws all the way to the end of thier travel one way or another and still center a part if that is how you want to run the job BUT, the jaws you cut will have a radius that is not centered on the spindle if you don't set them equidistant to begin with.

@@glenncerny8403 That's true, the cuts wont be perfectly centered on the jaw. But, i think the only issue might be the balance of the chuck. It might cause some vibration and chatter if it is not very rigid. It might also take longer to set the jaws up for another job, because each jaw will be at a different position. I agree that it would be better to start with a perfect ring, but sometimes good enough is good enough. The cost of the time to machine the ring is probably not worth it.

With a tool that has a shorter cut length than the thread, yes. I feel that it gives coolant and shavings a better exit. Also with this kind of cutter you are always milling into a already cut thread. It puts less load on the top of the tool. That said I have never done a test on tool life doing it both ways.

You sir... Are the first ever to thread mill top down...

Joga?????? What's joga????

@@gusmcgussy3299 In this case, bending your mind and the machine and tools' capabilities to make a nice part.

@@pco1984 huh???? There's no such word....

@@pco1984 there's YOGA ....

@@gusmcgussy3299 I'm not always a stickler for grammar, but when I do, I make sure to start a sentence with a capital letter. Also, both joga and yoga are a thing now, joga being more specified towards athletes, and yoga more aimed at keeping a pose for a long time without sleeping. As far as my understanding goes, that is.

API threads are a large thread form. Even large machines can have a hard time cutting them if your not chucked on substantial chunk of material. The other potential issue is that by finishing the other end first there's likely no room to push the thread back and recut it if it doesn't gauge.

@@mikelang4191 Cheers, I get it now

That could work. The only problem. The supplied stock was already saw cut to length.

@@EdgePrecision Ouch. Longer jaws is probably the most pain free then. I've seen guys weld extensions onto softjaws as well but it looks like you've solved it this way. You should show measuring taper and how you need to skip first and last threads due to pull out and reduced cut depth (from the front bevel). Have you done any 3/8 per inch taper mod acme threads? The tolerance on those radially boggles the mind haha.

Anything's possible

You could but you put extra load on the bearings and potentially cause extra runout on the chuck

Unless you're MarTool - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fM5ygtl8zauraWQ.html

Yes for smaller parts I do use a 8” three jaw chuck with a dovetail mount in the 4 jaw chuck. You may have seen this in some of my videos. But doing this rather coarse thread I worry about chatter in the thread using a smaller chuck.

I have thought about doing that. Maybe a upcoming project.

I certainly have. I have put my 6" kurt vise in a 4 jaw and chucked that up to cut some compound angles. The job was a nightmare but when it came back through and nobody knew how to do it it got me a pretty good size raise. I love the problem solving aspect of complex machined parts. That and working on 3-4 jobs under time constraints. I thrive and excel under pressure for some reason.

It’s important to do the API threaded end first. If I have to trim off the length to get the gauge length correct. The other end with the acme thread won’t require that. The overall length has a dimension. Trimming off the length if necessary for the API thread could put that out of tolerance.

I see, thanks for the reply!

I’m not sure what faces you are referring to.

In this case it wasn't the turning tools that were the problem. In their case I could rotate the B axis to gain clearance. It was the milling tools and they cant be rotated from 90 degrees.

It is possible. But I was just trying to show how some restrictions of the machine have to be accounted for in its setup and the jobs planing.

Thanks Alex! If I understand you correctly. I machined these parts this way because the stock was provided to me already cut to this length. Or. Kiitos Alex! Jos ymmärrän sinut oikein. Työstin nämä osat tällä tavalla, koska varastossa toimitettiin minulle jo leikattu tähän pituuteen. Tämä on Google-kääntäjän suomenkielinen käännös. Toimiiko tämä sinulle? Jos näin on, anna minulle kommentteja sen avulla. Tai suomeksi ja käännän ne Google Kääntäjän avulla.

@@EdgePrecision aha ok

Really???? I don't.... I run a 200ivst.....

Really??? I don't.... I run a 200ivst....

It's called extended tool holders....

Yep we have a 200s IV. Got extended tools also. Front cover above chuck we get close to head doing 5 axis work. Some of our parts the B is at 135 so back of spindle gets close

Gus Mcgussy otherwise I agree. Don’t get into its own ass at all any other way

My biggest problem: Big machine = hard to fit in 2 car garage : (

My biggest problem: any machine = hard to afford

@@BaldurNorddahl my biggest problem no garage to put it in

I do have a 8" chuck rigged that way. But its to small for this. Putting the taller jaws solved the issue. I may make a spacer to put in between this chuck and the spindle nose. It only need to be about 2" tall. Would make a good project for a KZfaq video.

Yes it is possible. All that's needed is to do a tapered helix. I have done it many times before. Just a 3 axis mill will do it.

@@EdgePrecision How it was possible to keep the thread angle at 55 or 60 degrees from the pitch line when milling the thread, are there thread mills to compensate for the thread taper?

I do that for smaller parts. You can see that in many of my videos. This Api Round thread is kind of coarse and I wanted things a rigid as possible. The stock was also already cut to length so there was very little to hold on to. So I felt like the bigger chuck would do a better job.

That could be possible and I do that fore smaller parts than this. Taller jaws solved the problem. The up coming video on the machine work will show.

It is some kind of adapter from the acme thread to this API thread. It could be to a drill pipe.

Josef Rozinek you’re assuming that there is clear space behind the sheet metal, there may well not be.

I have had the sheet metal cover off before. The head stock casting in behind it. There isn’t any space to shorten it. I would have done it if I could.

Yes the turning tools can be held at a angle. But the milling requires the tool to be at 90 degrees for this part.

It is necessary to do the API end first. This is because if for some reason I was to overshoot the gauge length (make it to short) I could trim off the end of the part to recover. If I did this on the second end it would make the over all length of the part to short.

V-038R is used for NC23 through NC50 I think it's 4" NC44 edit: at 28:30 he shows the thread gage and yeah it's NC44

@@the_real_ch3 I didn't catch that. My wrong. Thanks, Ken

In the next video. This thread doesn’t require a blunt start. But the acme thread on the other end does. I will be showing how I do that.

@@EdgePrecision I had to make once very shiny almost polished npt threads, external and internal with blunt starts, how can I do that?

There are two ways to make a blunt start. Mill it if the machine has milling capability. This is the way I do it on the Integrex. Or with a grooving tool and a very short threading cycle. Basically the grooving tool is set with its end parallel to the threads taper. Than the threading cycle is just long enough to cut the start of the thread when it’s pulling out. This makes the blunt start. All you have to do is adjust the offsets so it just trims off the beginning of first revolution of the thread. Slower speed makes a steeper blunt start. There is a relationship to the way the machine retracts the tool in relation to the speed.

It's called a Higbee.

machinist1337 I’m sure you could but that is $$$

@@Sicktrickintuner thanks for the reply. I really liked the video and pretty cool part you made. Machining tapered threads is pretty tricky. Too bad they dont have an extended Chuck for that mazak. All in all great video thanks for sharing.

This machine isn’t really setup for that. As you saw at the end of the video. I put the taller jaws on and everything is working fine. Thanks!

The sub spindle does on machines that are equipped with one.... However Peter's mazak is not equipped with one

The hydraulic chuck may be slightly thinner than this manual chuck. A spacer might be a good idea.

@@EdgePrecision Take a look at this video iv done around 37 seconds ... Maybe it can give you some more advanced idea.... I run a table/table DMG 5 axis mill-turn and i have made this D1-8 adapter for my table. I only ordered the cams trough e-bay. The adapter is hardened to 52 Rc. I can switch in less than 10 minutes from a 3 to 4 jaws chuck for smaller parts otherwise a have made a set of box jaws but they are not shown in this video. ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oLaeZ5Wepqqwc6M.html )

Wow that’s a nice machine.

@@EdgePrecision Yes ... I like it very much !!! And im (or was :-) ) a mazak guy.... I grew up running mainly integrex's and many other but this one with de Siemens Ergoline is really well built and fun to run. There is no comparison with older siemens systems.

@@abramfriesen9834 These Styl of threads you pretty much need some kind of gauge to check the standoff. With these gauges you measure the stand-off at the thread end like I show in the video. If you don’t have enough cut the thread deeper. If you went to far face off some material on the end. If you have to maintain some kind of length on the part. As I did in this video you should cut the thread shallow and keep trying the gauge, recutting the thread a little deeper until you get the proper stand-off on the gauge. Just be carful when you get close. It doesn’t take much. Even spring passes can make enough difference. You can trig out the difference knowing the taper of the thread your doing. But don’t try to do it in one cut. Do a little and try the gauge. Until you get there. Even wear on the insert can make a difference.

The reason its important to do the taper thread first is because of the standoff distance. If for some reason you overshoot it (Make it to small) you can face off the end and the shoulder to bring it back in. If you had already machined the other end this would make the part short or out of tolerance. With the straight thread its only the diameter that is critical. This wont change the parts length like the taper shoulder dimension would.

@@EdgePrecision Thanks for the explanation, i knew there would be one but could not figure it out, its good to cover your back just in case, thanks

I have thought about that. Sort of a spacer between the spindle and chuck. I also have thought about some spacers under the hard jaws. Say about 2” tall.