This content is incredible. You sir have single handedly saved so many people thousands of dollars. Thank you!

A wealth of information, thanks for helping to make my project more safe and professional.

those aren't "floor jacks", those are "jack posts". a LOT of KZfaqrs seem to be getting that wrong. the JACK is the thing that LIFTS the house beams up. the jack stand is just a temporary support system. for long-term support, you want to use large timbers, or preferably "lally columns" which are steel columns filled with concrete, and are more expensive, but tend to be more sturdy.

Thank you so much for this series. We recently took ownership of an old wooden building and the building report said it was fine only to find one of the load bearing beams a crumbling wreck. Its got another next to it but not great. Thank you so much. Slowly working thru your series but such a life saver.

Nice explanation! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

thank you for the clear explanation

I know this is 2 years old but awesome video man... thank you

Thank you. I really appreciate this video. I have a back porch that needs to be lifted on one end. I think this will help.

Helpful video. Thank you!

Great Video. Thank you for the detailed explanation.

Great job and video thank you sir 👍very helpful

Great tips

This is excellent! Not only this save money but also from potential disaster by inadvertently placing the jacks wrong.

I sure do wish you did this work for other people and would be willing to do it in eastern ky Lol .Awesome series

Listen you have a lot of great info on this and will save people some money and solve some people’s problems with that said so many things are wrong first of all a concrete block which 8 inch width 16 inch length 3.5 inch thickness u can not support a carrying beam with that as a footing sorry I use a 18 inch round by six inch concrete pad for surface area way more effective all that block will do over time especially in dirt is compress into dirt creating pressure resulting in broken block so that was wrong also the post you are using is not a permanent fix they are temporary the steel plates will bend around the adjustable screw due to the top plate not being thick enough resulting in a pressure point pushing into your carrying beam also making your claim of that the post is rated for 30000 lbs is totally false I use 3/8 steel plates for my top and bottom and I only claim 15000 lbs so between the post sinking into the ground due to in adequate footing or the fact your trying to use these as permanent posts and they will bend the top plates idk some good info but someone who knows this shit elevate your game a little bit and educate people with the proper info and be more familiar with the products your using

Very good video, keep it up!

Thank you! Subscribed! This was very helpful and educational. I have new 12 foot beams going from left to right if I'm facing front of porch I want to install. At end of each beam, there are beams coming out from house (perpendicular) to end of front of porch where railing is. My new 12 foot beam will be sistered to an existing 12 foot beam. So I place this jack or 4 x 4 support posts at the end of each 12 foot section where they screws into the perpendicular beam? Should it sit under the new 12' beam or under the beam that 12 footer is screwing into? (Hope I explained this clearly)

Sean, I really appreciate your content brother and hope this finds you and the family doing well. I’m preparing to do some shoring of our kitchen because Im adding an island and want to ensure the joists will carry loads well. I’ve looked at Akron, BiSupply, and Ellis screws, but since you’ve already done this and you’ve had time to reflect, what brand/source did you use for your basement Jack post/screws? We live in NW Tennessee in a 126 year old poplar home at 4600 sqft, you know they’re big holes in the ground you can dump money into 😂. We also have a cabin in Maggie Valley, so I can totally relate to a lot of what you do. Thanks again brother!

Will those screws in the plate be enough holding power to keep beam from kicking out? Or do you use something else to prevent kick out of beam?

That basement looks just like mine! Curious how old do you estimate average property with old stone foundations? Was they built like this because it was more affordable? I was told they more solid?

What do you suggest if my floor joists are different widths? Most of mine seem to be 2x8 and some are 2x10

Do you know if floor jacks is what professional foundation repair companies would use? I have a house that they had stuck wood beams on concrete as supports in 2 or 3 places.

could the support beam be installed wide face vertical instead of horizontal ? is the load distributed the same if the beam is wide hi or wide to the sides ?

interesting note about having a jack at the end of the beam. what about the final beam under the wall at the exterior of the house?

How would you pick a spot to put the jack under stair landing?

I am bracing just 3 joists so my beam is only 42" long - I'm not actually raising my floor but rather putting the supports there to prevent sagging. I was hoping to get away with just 3 jacks spanning a 9 foot wall, again covering 3 total floor joists. The load on this wall will only be slightly more than 3000lbs (aquariums). Should I worry about cantilever? I could use 4 and it would just cost me one more jack and one more concrete block but I already feel like I'm doing this "just in case". Thanks for your time and informative video.

Our basement floor was caving in from all the force. We might need to put in a whole new slab of concrete before doing this. Old houses are so much work.

Those floor jacks here in Chicago are nearly 100 bucks. Insane

I am using the same exact jacks. Were you afraid those concrete bricks will break?

Just one thing gave me pause on this great series. It was when you mention avoiding cantilever action by putting post at end of beam. I seem to remember in Engineering school, it can be advantageous to cantilever if your situation allows. Usually you can't do this in a house because you want to use outside walls as support for joists, but in this case for temp support you can and should. The forces at the cantilever support cause the bottom fibers of the beam to change from tensile to compression and opposite for the top fibers. This has a load neutralizing effect. The ultimate max compressive and tensile loads are thus reduced else where along the length of the beam.

Thank you for this. I'm sagging a bit in some areas of my house (1890s). I was curious... I know this is a temporary setup for you but could this also be permanent? I've got so many DIY projects floating around that I'd like to simply use something like this as a stop-gap measure. Thanks for any insights.

What type of concrete block did you use?

Thanks for the video! What brand jacks do you use? I mostly find max load 18000lbs. Having double that would probably be better.

my old home was renovated and they added a kitchen island, that kitchen island is heavy and it has made the flooring sink a little,i have a basement, what would you recommend?

Will these beams remain in place after the new foundation is in place or will you remove them and just use jacks?

i realy like those old bricks behind u, i pretty sure those okd brick in that basement tell me that the house is from early 1840!

Like. I have time for them doing this by myself

Is there a huge benefit to digging into the ground and then filling with gravel?

"I'm gonna get another person to help me." lol

There are a ton of jacks to choose from which ones do I need for a similar situation

im gonna be doing this to my house it was built in 1880 so it's old rough cut lumber. im re doing the main beam's that hold the house up.

How far away is the beam from the basement wall ? (Horizontal)

This helps me My house sags a little , was built in 1900 I have a moist basement with stone foundation. when I raise the house up a little will gaps be created on the rim joist and. Create air Gaps ? I am in process of taking out old insulation and sealing up pest access and then using foam board sprayed with cans of spray foam. But should I do this after I raise house ? Any insight is appreciated

What to do with pvc or wires on the way of the bee beam?

Where may I buy that adjustable post?

do you leave the jacks there permanently?

What jacks did you use for this project?

Uh, you installed your jack UPSIDE DOWN°°° LARGE END UP, DUDE. WOW.

How many PSI will the brick hold?

Where store I get jack ?

Where did you buy those at that price

How could you not tell us the size of the beam? Are they three 2*8s?

Where can I get that jack post, what brand is it? Are these permanent ones?

Why am I getting conflicting opinions on whether or not I can tapcon the baseplate into the basement slab?? Similarly, why do some structural engineers state that the adjustable piece should be on the bottom and others say it should be at the top?

Why did you not just dig 24 inch by 24 inch hole a ne pour cement..for a.better stable support

Only bad thing is this is not a permanent post

It's easier to screw your header up then use you jacks

2 years later the $25 beam is now $75. I bet the jacks have gone up too. Inflation sucks.

Tock tock bla bla bla. Tock alot.!!!!