+Fix This Build That Thanks Brad! I typically spray two coats inside the box, and sand it back. I may add a coat or two with the rubber and it can get pretty far into the corners, but typically spray two coats and that's it.

Hey Ross! Thanks! I'm glad you could take something away from the the video to help in your shop.

I would love to know how bad your projects turn out if this video helped!

Thanks for watching Angie, and hope to see you on the 4th!

Thanks Caleb!

Hey Sean! Shellac is the shit! HaHa.

Tommy P! Yeah, it's my go to finish for a lot of projects

Glad you found it useful!

Thanks Tom! Try it, you'll like it.

Hey Brian! Thanks for watching buddy! When are we going to see something from you and Mark? Love your work and videos!

Thanks Steve! Going with very thin coats like this, it considerably cuts down any runs or drip that may develop in an inside corner. They can still happen though! That's why I like to pre-finish when I know those corners are going to be an issue

Yeah I can see from your demo that I've been trying to put too heavy a coat on. Thanks for that insight.

Thanks!

Thanks Tom! For something like a table top, I would use poly. Either a wiping poly or spray water based ploy after a coat of BLO and shellac to seal it.

Thanks Chuck!

Thanks! I would just scruff sand with 400, then apply paste wax with a rag.

The sequence would be to clean first then apply the shellac as a sealer maybe with a brush unless a refined finish is wanted on your drawers. Cleaning afterward would not be best done with any products with an alcohol or ammonia fraction.

It's a great finish to use!

Hey Dave! This is an easy process, and it works really well. I've tried brushing, and that's just too damn messy and drippy for me.

In the past I used a rag and wiped it on, much like wipe on poly. I probably applied it too thick when compared to your technique.

I don't think so. My gas furnace is in the garage also, and I don't think the alcohol fumes in your case 20+ feet away are anything to worry about. You would probably have to splash the alcohol itself on the burner for it to ignite. However this is just my opinion on the subject. I have been doing this for years in this space and have never had issues.

I would do a light sanding to at least prep the surface before more shellac.

Thanks Thom! I think it would hold up well on a coffee table as long as there are coasters. Shellac doesn't like heat or especially alcohol. For a coffee table I would use a wipe on poly finish.

GuysWoodshop Thank You so much for all your help I really appreciate it take care

You can also use grain alcohol.

Sometimes yes to both water and oil based. Anything will stick to shellac!

The biggest thing is I can control the shellac to alcohol mixture and color. What I am demonstrating here is not even close to french polishing. Do a YT search, and you will find a great deal of good videos on the subject. I don't know why your shellac is not drying after 3 days. Mine cures completely in a couple of days.

Shellac is biochemical and has a shelf life. The usual indication is a color and change in viscosity.

Oil finish is fine. Boards are always going to take damage. Oil is as good as anything and can be reapplied at a later date. I love danish oil as an oil finish.

Glad it was helpful!

I have in the past, but not normally.

How detailed was your surface that it was being applied to? Shellac is perfect for multiple coatings so you can layer it and apply wax finish to make it pop. First layers are always going to be the most coarse and not look as good. If you layer and sand like the video it will help to even the finish out.

Agreed. I would never put it on anything that would see beverages put on it. However for other pieces, it's my got to finish. Thanks Mac!

Thanks Chris! It's really neither. I know that doesn't help. It's a solvent based finish. The shellac crystals are dissolve in alcohol. When applied, the alcohol dissipates, leaving only the shellac behind. When you apply the next coat, it dissolves into the first coat. These coats are so incredibly thin that it would take probably more than 15 coats to really start to build a finish that would look like a film finish.

+Humus Workshop Haha. Thanks!

Shellac. There is a link to how I made it in the description of the video

Not needed it really is down to yourself and what you like.

I would look at an oil based finish for a gun stock

@@GuysShop thank you very much!

HaHa. Thanks for the first rubber joke. I was wondering how long it would take.

If the shellac has color, it will change the color

?

Not much. It still sands very easy after the second coat

HaHa. I think you should start a grass roots campaign to let them know they should :) Thanks for watching!

I can't say for certain that it will be baby safe.

It is an electric guitar.

Gary I would get some Trans Tint wood dye for color and mix it with the shellac.

HaHa. I'm sure you will!

You just turn it inside out and shake the fu......... nevermind

HaHaHa.

Between the rubber and rubbing out, there are plenty of innuendos in this finish.

All of it was intentional. Just having a little fun!

Carryout a few test pieces to see what they turn out. Only you will be able to judge the standards.

Probably a bit late on this one.. We are thinking what may be an "oil based" paint pen is maybe one of the Sharpie Markers. The "regular" Sharpies have some alcohol in the ink. Best to test on scrap first. There is another method using Sharpies that are made without any alcohol in the ink that are used for writing on CDs and DVDs that are coated on the label side with shellac. This type also have a nib at either end of the pen and they come usually as a set in limited colors.

HaHa. Thanks Jim! Just remember light coats, and it will turn out well.

A flat small board probably would not be an issue but what about inside corners, curves and the like? Keep 'um comin'. JimE

Hey Jim. If you can prefinish before they become inside corners, that's the way to go. You can still use the rubber to get into the corners like any cloth applicator. You just can''t "swipe off the end" anymore, but you can still just wipe.

Thanks again. JimE

The secret is to never rag on rags and they will always come back

@@magicgordo4878 You seem very knowledgeable on rags. I have a mechanic friend who's a real gearhead. He's also really into rags. He has shop rags, terry cloth rags, oil rags, buffing rags....he collects them all. Given your comprehension and vast expertise on the subject, could I safely and correctly/politically call him a raghead??? Thank you for your input.

Water based poly is a good choice. I would start with boiled linseed oil. Wait a week, wash coat of shellac, then the poly.

GuysWoodshop Guy, thanks your suggestion. I completed my table top today and I'll finish it as you recommended. I'm a newbie at woodworking and I reach out to seasoned woodworkers like you for input on projects I'm working on. Thanks again!

@@GuysShop ...and a fire extinguisher

Use button lac

The final finish (satin or other) is subjective. Button shellac is dark by nature. Maybe consider white shellac. See pix of examples on Google Images.

I have found that a 1.5 lb cut is very forgiving, and it's all I ever really use.

Absolutely! Just wet it again with some alcohol and then recharge with shellac.

@@GuysShop That's what I figured, so I did and it worked out great. Thanks.

Thanks Mike! Hows your hand by the way?

GuysWoodshop better, back it working on a disc sander build

Aboout the size of a golf ball is what I usually go for

thanks William!

I have put as few as 3 coats on. It all depends an what you're trying to get the finish to look like.

You can alsouse grain alcohol if liquor stores in our state allow it.

Maybe one day!

@@GuysShop Rare and collectable are conventional type cup guns with heating capacity for spraying shellac. The rattlecan shellacs are fine if they are of recent purchase. Some of the older cans have small fractions of methylene chloride to prevent settling and caking in the bottom of the can. Any material ie. paint or coating that uses or has a fraction of hot solvent as a reducer dries faster as the percentage of solvent increases This is true with many of the oil paints (artists oils), real varnishes, petrochemical polyurethanes and even alkyd paints that can be reduced with many solvents to reach the desired effect. The range is from ether to kerosene.

Good

What would you use?

Shellac sets really quickly and can be applied every 10 minutes if need be.