Apps mortars whack

Hmmmmmmm

whats an aps mortar?

@@youraverageengineer6957 Well, a CRAM Mortar but using aps instead. For your own sanity: Its not viable in any scenario. Is it fun? Hell yes. I recommend just rying an aps railgun mortar with 500mm HESH Shells and a grav component. Shell speed needs to be 125 or less so the shell doesnt go into space when firing from water. It has a range of 1km, but its quite a lot of fun to have a burst fire weapon that has the label madness written all over it

@@Justfalor HUH sounds fun

I created an 8m long shell-spitting 500mm cannon that fires at 2400 rpm

@@ProtoAzula does it happen to be a glass cannon? Also how expensive was it lol

Twin barreled 15cm Colbert-styled ship god... that's a bit too much DAKKA DAKKA

@@terrsus7676 it was literally just a cannon and costs 800 000 materials

@@ProtoAzula haha nice

As am I, but I have a further obsession with putting the aforementioned 1m rail guns on really tiny stealth corvettes.

Max draw 50mm heavy head is a wonderful thing, isn't it?

@@_tyrannus I prefer Sabot rounds

I actually recently built a hover-tank with a burst fire 1m railgun, meant for about 3.5km range. Turns out a lot of designs won't even bother firing at you if you're that far out.

@@Attaxalotl Sabot railgun seems excessive, exchanging lots of critical DPS for pointless AP.

Oooh, cheers! Did not know that.

im confused trying to imagine this, is there a way you could try to explain this differently?

@@thebevil8127 Each autoloader and all of it's attached clips form a group, let's call it "magazine", which is only related to that one autoloader. Any input feeder attached to this "magazine" fills one of the clips at a time until it is full and then proceeds to fill the next, until all are full.

@@dr.robertnick9599 oooh so wait if you put two input feeders (one on each side) on a "magazine" but the other "magazine" has no input feeders, once the magazine with all the input feeders is full first, the other magazine will magically start to be reloaded? (i assume the input feeder still has to be next to the other magazine)

@@thebevil8127 Not quite. What i called the magazine is a single loader with its attached clips in a group, it's not actually a thing. Forget I used that word, it doesn't really clarify anything. If you have a loader with two clips attached and only one clip has input feeders attached, one clip will get filled and then the other clip gets filled, even though only one has input feeders. I suggest starting FTD and trying this out for yourself. I also figured it out by just experimenting a bit and asking questions, like "What happens if you connect an input feeder to a loader with clips? Does it do anything after the loader has its one shell?" The game has difficult mechanics but it actually does a good job showing what is happening.

That's actually a genious idea! Still better than a casemate.

@@juanordonezgalban2278 Yeah with historical builds I often have a lot of internal space so you might as well use it optimally by making the below deck part of the turret deeper.

Cheers! Didn't know about the low-gauge loading bonus. No wonder 18mm belt-feds load so fast!

@@BorderWise12 I was blissfully unaware of that until not too long ago, so don't feel too bad! :D

For the ultimate compact design, ditch the auto loaders and clips entirely. Put ammo feeders right on the firing piece. (It's stupid, but it does actually work)

@@Tolwrath yea direct input feeders are slow tho. I don't know if this still works but back when the advanced cannons where still relatively new you could exceed the shell length limit with direct input feeder cannons

You still can, but not by as much, due to the limit on shell parts. Though, because of the railgun rework, you wouldn't need as many (or even any) casings for shells of that size.

I'm still trying to get that battlestar galactica feeling with my cwis

Nah. Like I said, there's many ways to do this. If it works, it works.

@@BorderWise12 Oh, they work fine. It's just that I can get rid of some useless 6-way connectors doing it your way.

Just wait until you discover 5-Clip Tetris ;D Amongst the tourney building crowd there are many ridiculous things that people have figured out :P

@@IainDoherty51 Yeah, I probably shoud concentrate on building something floaty to carry what I came up with so far before I try my hand at that kind of 3d tetris.

That's how I felt when I had people explain it to me. XD

Yeah, it is an unfortunately convenient geometric shape. 😅

@@BorderWise12 no wonder the british feared bismarck

That's more of a con than a bonus/j

Yup. I made a guide on that waaaaay back in the day.

For the P.S. the visual hasn't mattered for a long long time. Hell you can get away with 5 clip loaders

@@azaty1721 These completely eye opening implications only works for 1m clips right?

30mm is a wee bit small for FtD standards, 50mm is pretty good for CIWS and also AA. If you want to have any decent anti-ship, 80mm will still work with large and huge missiles.

Also good thing to note that more intakes on the clip the beltfed has, the shorter the reload. Like one extra intake on one clip large beltfeeder bumps the downtime to 25& Also, for multibarrel APS, having equal amount of beltfeds for the barrels means less RPM going to places and more dakka I do sorta wish that with non-belt feds, you could have higher autoloader speed to spend the clips you have attached and then have RPM downgrade (or set the guns to wait and reload), but no. Non-beltfed pretty much hard limit firing speed to lowest RPM of the three components.

Ah yes, the FtD moment when you see all the work you have to do now... 😅

Supercav kinetic is the best against subs Stuff like mid gauge Sabo head solid casings or just Sabo stick holowpoint head spam works well.

Short answer: sabot shells for both of those. :D But yeah, I should do another 'handy shells' guide.

Nope! Did they share video footage of that?

@@BorderWise12 Mostly just a wall of text and a photo of his test platform. Date 05/16 @ 1:16am. Lt. Wuzz talking. Channel FTD - Casual. Search for "I got the test bench" and it'll put you at the beginning of the chat.

Multiple barrels gives a cooling bonus... and that's basically it, yes.

@@BorderWise12 Gotcha. Well, no more miniguns then. Harder to make phalanx-looking turret caps anyhow XD

Can't do that at the moment, but when I start uploading FtD videos again be sure to remind me and I will! 👍

@@BorderWise12 will do thanks!

I left out a lot of stuff... because there is a LOT of stuff. 😅

i dont really see a use for effective 5-clip tetris

@@ripoffpingu it reduces the cost of the autoloader portion more than APS was balanced around

@@Cheesecannon25 yeah but you lose too much space for 5 clip tetris to actually be effective

@@ripoffpingu you don't lose any space I've done lots of optimized 5-clip guns without unused space

No need to bother, cheers. 😁

I'm planning to, yes!

Don't give up too soon! FtD is not an easy game, and absolutely no one makes a perfect craft on their first try.

@@BorderWise12 ​It wouldn't have been an issue if the game didn't fight me every step of the way. Tried to make a prefab, had to fight with it to get controls back to actually make and copy it, A.I "turns off" and there is no way to turn it back on, etc. Then if I compare it to say Space Engineers, in that game I'm able to build crafts reasonably quickly because the game doesn't fight me for every single centimeter or randomly strip me of my controls while also making issues with the craft itself. EDIT: Reinstalled to try and make a larger ship and it won't stop capsizing, no matter how many areas I add to put Airpumps in, how many props are on the sides, or how I mess with the PIDs, all that happens is it capsizes slightly slower, but will still eventually capsize.

@@TheFearsomeRat I've had very few of the issues you're having. Maybe it's because I tried to learn a bit about the game before hand or something else though. I've never had a single problem with prefabs, my only gripe with them is using really large ones is a bit unwieldy. I don't know what control setting you are using but I use the keyboard based and it did take a little getting used to, but it wasn't too bad. I've never built a hydrofoil, only ships, tanks, a few planes and a helicopter. However I definitely recommend a simple ship or tank first. The AI never turns off on its own, either you turned it off yourself or you didn't set it up correctly, or it somehow got destroyed. If it does turn off for whatever reason you can press C and choose which setting the AI is on. If it doesn't appear that means the AI was destroyed. Re: large ship capsizing, learn some basic physics. It sounds like you're building way too tall and narrow, with a really high centre of mass. You want the centre of mass to be as low as possible, you can do that a few ways. The simplest is to add a load of lead to the bottom of the ship. Making a low but wide hull is another option. Another is to include empty space in the upper parts of the ship, with heavy stuff like engines, magazines, etc being low down. You should minimise empty space filled with air pumps low in the ship. To help with floatability I recommend alloy armour for anywhere not important. Using these most of my ships float very well with no capsizing, without PIDs or stability props because they just aren't necessary. Another possibility is your centre of mass is off-centre, in which case you need to redistribute your mass. The centre of mass should be as close to the physical centre of the ship in lengths and breadth as possible, and as low as possible. If your centre of mass is significantly off centre or above half way up the hull you will have significant stability issues.

Yup! Coolers and gauge-increases occupy the same spaces. You just need as many as needed, then start using connectors if you can (since they're cheaper).

Yes and no. It's basically the same, but with greater empahsis on being flat and small.

How is it pain? It's practically free velocity