Hahaha god damn, that sound really awesome! I have 2 1961 1s and I feel that. Would like to test the 1v

Hi may I ask what size room your using it in. I’m looking for a sud my room is 12x26

My room is 13 by 15 with 12 ft ceilings.

@@stuartboros7693 Thank you.

Well, he's actually just quoting from the spec sheet and the V is precisely meaning vented which today is used also for ported construction, though the term "vented" originates from a speaker design principle where there was not used a tuned port, but a semi-permeable opening was used to reduce compression. But he sure does make great sub reviews 👍

I am trying to determine which sub would work best for my room, it's fairly large, 20x24, sitting area is smaller than that. Rhtymik recommended a F15hp, but it looks huge and don't think it will fit the decor. Would you say the 1v is on par with your rhythmik? It seems like it will be enough to fill my room. Thanks!

The arendal has more output but the rythmik is cleaner size wise it is larger. I'd say for movies the arendal is a tiny bit better and for music the rythmik is better by a wide margin.

@@samsneediii1793 I got the Arendal, it is fantastic, highly recommended

@@samsneediii1793 this was exactly my dilemma . I have an E15HP and was wondering to go with 2 more of the E15HP or 1V . Music /HT 50/50 use , so definitely will go with the E15 HP2 in my case . Thank you !

Hello David, does the buzzing happen when there is no signal cable connected to the sub? If its more like a hum sound, it could be a ground look hum, in which case the problem is not with the sub itself.

Thanks for the feedback.... I've tried running the 1961 1s on it's on and with my two Monolith THX 10s and the Super Cube 8000 the hum will not stop. Now the 1961 1s rock's . The hum is not loud. I'm just worried that the power supply may be going out. Now when the RCA cable is not connected no hum at all. This is my third day with this outstanding subwoofer.

@@davidlewis8124 If the hum is not on with no RCA cable attached, you have a ground loop hum. This is caused by having items on two different AC circuits that share the same signal chain. There are several remedies for this. I suggest you google the term "subwoofer ground loop hum" and look at some of the things that can be done to stop it.

James thanks for all your info. You are very knowledgeable. I was gonna send the sub back. I'm so happy that you and Gene had a show about the same subwoofer that I just purchased. You guys really do help people like me a lot. I will post a update on this issue. Thanks 👍 ✌️❤️

Hello David, did you resolve the issue on your 1961 sub?

Yeah I'm excited to learn more about group delay, so is sealed typically better at group delay? would you happen to know why?

The sheer physics limit the impact of group delay below 100Hz. A difference of 10ms is literally nothing in the bass region - it is absolutely not distinguishable by human ears at those frequencies and will have zero effect on matching the sub to your main speakers as the should not be reproducing those frequencies simultaneously and even if they are, your room will hide that difference by smearing the response.

1v.

Was yours double boxed? ✌️

@@davidlewis8124 just checked, the box is made from a double thickness cardboard. It’s a robust box, all the products I’ve bought from them have been better packed than any of their speakers I’ve bought.

Thanks for the info... The box was not packed right. On the outside of the cardboard box had funny looking corner pads top and bottom and then had half way raped with black plastic. 😂 The subwoofer looks great though. ✌️

Arendal 1961 beats svs pb pro/sb pro. Arendal 1723 beats svs 3000 sb/pb

I was worried about sub feedback as I have 4 subs, 2 on either side of my turntable stand in the rear. I haven’t noticed any bass feedback on my SL1200 MK5 w/ AT-VM540ML with stock rubber mat and 3mm acrylic mat yet.

Thanks for sharing your experience, Andrew. I've been able to avoid the most serious problems myself, for the most part. That is for most of my turntables, and in most of my apartments, over the good 30 years I've been playing records and buying my own hifi (vinyl records as the preferred and primary source for most of the time). The notable exception has been a couple of places with suspended wooden floors, and not very solid ones at that (currently wood on sturdy concrete). I don't have subs, but seriously consider a pair as the next upgrade, once my DIY main speaker project is finished. Even though I'm far from having any sustained feedback loops, I have visible subsonic cone movement with even the smallest warps. These are of course inaudible, as vertical stylus movements generate opposite phase left and right channel output. And, they are also subsonic..... But they cause coil displacement in the woofers, increase distortion, and 'use up' dynamic capacity. The good old rumble filter would be a good idea, but is sadly absent from most modern hifi equipment. Of course going mono in the subs will solve the problem of warped records by summing left and right to zero, at least for power amps and speakers. Anyway. My point is that this is an interesting topic. It may cause problems, even when listening does not lead you intuitively to the right cause. The 'general consumer audio press' is hardly helpful on these things. I can't think of anyone better than Gene and the guys at Audiholics to make it a topic, apply thinking to it, and come up with good approaches to making the most of the format.

@@andrewskaterrr Oh, and by the way. Your Technics is probably very well designed, drawing on DJ experience (made for playing LOUD!!), and generally being old school japanese thoroughly thought out.

@@thomaslutro5560 I would highly suggest getting at least 2 subs for your setup, but you will really want a UMIK-1 and MiniDSP 2x4 HD so you can see the room response with REW, align them, and EQ them to your personal house curve. It's pretty simple and will make a big difference in your sound I'm sure. If you're in an apartment and listen alone, you could deal with 1 sub and placement to where you're not in the room null. Good modern subs like the Arendals should be able to handle infrasonic warps, especially better than your mains, so the crossover will save your mains from that issue. And the guys mentioned in their 3 High Power Sub stream, the amps protect the subs from hurting themselves by limiting with either a HPF or limiting output at high levels, so I wouldn't worry about the subs. Personally I haven't heard an issue with this on my 4x SVS PB-1000 Pros even with the +6dB Harman curve, and my subs easily play to 15hz with room gain. I honestly expended more issues in feedback with my setup. Do you feel the waves are messing with the sound too much?

@@andrewskaterrr Thanks for the reassurance and advice. I am going DSP full range, for crossovers, speaker- and room response corrections (don't tell the religious vinyl people). I have measurement equipment and will try as best I can to do as much as possible acoustically, though this will be very limited in my living room/ kitchen. It has to look good, so it will be limited to record- and book shelves on both side walls, foam absorption under the kitchen cabinets, possibly added padding to the underside of a sofa and a chair, and maybe a few tricks added. But all in all very limited possibilities in a moderately sized room with most of a life going on. I can't say I hear anything directly causal between the subsonic cone movement and audio performance as it is now. But I do have a rather limited dynamic headroom particularly in the bass. I can definitely play louder with digital formats than vinyl. I am hoping the new speakers will improve this, by more capable woofers, and by DSP bypassing passive crossovers currently robbing speaker sensitivity and amplifier power. I fear I'll still have to use some form of rumble filter, though. At least to make the most of available resources. Most of what comes out of a vinyl playback chain below at least 30 Hz will at best be noisy, at worst only noise. A sad thing the hifi press for decades has been applauding every functionality removed from electronics. I can see this leaving more on the manufacturers budget for higher quality elsewhere. But now they recommend spending those savings on wires, magic crystals, and other forms of snake oil. Anyway. I will be experimenting once the kit is here. I don't expect to make full use of the low frequency extension of good subs, Rather hoping to gain flatter response in the lower frequencies reproduced, and relieving the mains for better dynamic capacity in their part of the big picture. I still think this would be an interesting topic for an Audioholics investigation.

Get the arendals…hands down!

@@Novilicious Have you demoed both? I had Paradigms about 15yrs ago and they were superb. Both seem to test well and I don't really have an opportunity to demo them both before purchase although Arendal does offer a trial period

Both are great. Arendal has build quality and output advantage. Paradigm has more optimal center channel if you sit off axis.

@@Audioholics thanks Gene. You consider both to be in the same tier for stereo/music listening?

@@Audioholics am I breaking any rules if I go Paradigm center with Arendal towers and sub?

Most people wouldn't run a subwoofer anywhere near full output for music. Plus majority of music (apart from mostly niche pipe organs) ever made doesn't go lower than 40hz. So the sub distortion would be much lower than 10%-20%. Yeah some older music has some distorted bass in the mix through the equipment used at the time. But some good remastered versions clean that up fix that.

Soon.

Arendal. I've got a pb2000 pro and am looking at getting an Arendal soon.

Haha not sure but I think he's a robot.

Not a REL fan boy but quite impressed with the two T7x I bought recently. Can reach lower than what their marketing specs state, and they're super fast. Using them both for 2-channel listening and HT. Very fast clean subs. Look beautiful. 2 small issues: one of them had vibration noise (had to screw the back panel tighter) and they're very shiny! So they look great in the room, but with projector on, there's some light reflection. Need to cover them with plain clothes. Also, power on led at the back is way too powerful. Need to hide it otherwise led reflection against the wall is too bright.

500 miles of completed border wall is a little bit more of a accomplishment with everything/everyone against him vs Genes half wall.