I'm very glad my video was helpful. Thank you Sir for the nice comment 🙂

Thanks. I'm sure you know that very few agree with us on spreading the thermal paste. When I was an Computer repair Tech, we were taught to do it that way to guarantee full coverage. I have wondered more than once how the Pea or X became the norm.

​@@PE4Doers Maybe it just became the norm when CPUs were much smaller, so it was easier to get full coverage with a dot/x... Also the wattage was generally lower so it maybe just didn't matter too much.

Thank you for the great supporting comment

How do you have it mounted in your case ?

@@10eLSe11 I have mine mounted in the front with the hoses going down to the bottom of the radiator and the fans blowing into the case pulling air through the radiator.

​@@10eLSe11 Hoses should go to the bottom. Used to have it installed on the "roof" of my previous case in a push configuration so it would push the air out of the top. Not optimal for thermals considering my RTX 3080 can generate heat but it helped a lot keeping inside of my case dust free as the only air coming in was through filtered front which had 3x 140mm fans to help the air flow. I had to deep clean my case every 3 months in pull configuration. Now i have it in Thermaltake P5 case in pull configuration since it is an open concept case. Btw, P5 is fantastic. Endlessly configurable, will keep it for many many years. Combined with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste. Doing thermal benchmarking every 6 months to monitor potential degradation and after two years thermals are as good as new install for now.

I can understand that about the RGB. Good luck Sir.

You will need to put them on the inside of the radiator with the air being sucked in through the radiator. That is how I have mine. Also, if possible, make sure the hoses enter at the bottom of the radiator - that would provide the best performance and the lowest residual noise.

I fully agree. Thanks for the additional formation for the other viewers.

The 420 fits in my Corsair 7000D Airflow @ top with about 3/8" to spare at each end and the hoses clears all. Put hoses to right @ front fans (which is great because the hottest part of the rad is where the hoses connect to the rad, having just brought hot coolant from the cpu) so hose end at the front meets fan intakes (and my side intakes). The 420 technically fits in front, but if you have a large GPU (mine 12.5") the hoses down approach means the large GPU prevents the hoses from reaching pump. With a smaller GPU maybe. Otherwise front mount only works with hoses up (not recommended).

You are very welcome. What are the stats of your PC, and the temperatures you are seeing with this cooler ?

I am building on an ASUS Strix ROG Z790-E Gaming WiFi II and i9 14900KF inside Phanteks Enthoo 719 case. I am still in the process so will come back with temperatures later.

Not weird at all. I used high-quality auto painting tape, at this Amazon link: amzn.to/3Qx4zCs

It's ok, but just a stepping stone. I've heard there are others with longer batter life, thinner when stretched straight (which this one does but is too thick for tight places) and increased torque, so I have been looking around. I think someone mentioned it was made by either Panasonic or Sony, but not sure. I'm sure it will cost two or three (or more times) the price, but it may be my final solution.

The Artic 5 pastes is included 🙂

You are very welcome 🙂

Yes, the RGB still shows fine.

You are very welcome. That you for the nice comment.

Are you referring to the back of the motherboard?

@@PE4Doers Yes

@@555.oliver I have not installed it on the motherboard, but I believe you do need it.

Thanks Katherin 🙂 I am also thinking I should try a custom water cooling build as my next 'large' build.

Are you referring to the Fan sockets on the motherboard? General you should always use the Fan socket the is labelled CPU fan when installing an AIO on your CPU.

If that is about the cooler I fully agree. If about my video than I thank you sincerely.

Do you have a high-airflow case? Also, make sure you have the fans blowing in the correct direct - either out if the cooler is at the top of the case, or in if its at the front of the case. I have also found that having more fans blowing in (with air filters on them) rather that out is the best cooling solution since that will tend to keep a positive pressure in the case and forcing out the dusty air out through all the other case openings.

​@PE4Doers The case is an NZXT H9 Flow and I've top mounted the radiator. I've looked into the potential problem more and I'm almost certain it will be a motherboard bios setting that's pre-enabled forcing my CPU to push enhanced turbo. It's a Gigebyte z790.

@@numberzthegreat The only other thing I can suggest through comments is to make sure you have the motherboard Fan connectors set to PWM, rather than DC. I don't know that specific motherboard, however maybe you could set the default fan speed to high. Also, I would pull the pump off the CPU and check that the thermal paste was fully compressed. If you have a metal space between the pump and the motherboard, it may have introduced a gap between the pump place and the CPU, which would easily show.

You find any solutions? I have the exact same setup but just ordered the cooler and new case so I have yet to install everything.

Ummm. I really don't know what video you are referring to. The JayzTwoCents video I recommend is: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/erGndJqqzLqunmQ.html at min/sec marker 7:20. In that video he clearly explains (and demonstrates) that as long as you keep any part of the radiator above the pump (on the CPU) you are good. Also, for a front-mounted AIO, having the tubes going down into the bottom of the radiator is ideal.

The single PWM CPU Fan connector on the Artic AIO controls the PWM Pump the small PWM Fan on the pump assembly (that cools down the heat-sinks for the 12-vold power stages), and all the Fans on the radiator. Since all are PWM devices, you need to connect that single 4-pin PWM Fan connector to the CPU Fan header. There is no separate 3-pin Pump connector. If you want to however, you could separate the Fan connectors from the radiator, connect them to the CPU Fan and CPU Option connectors (put two of the fans on a splitter connected to the Option header) and the pump/power-stage fan to the Pump Header on the motherboard, however that is Not recommended by Artic since the pump and that small fan will not be controlled as PWM.

@@PE4Doers thank you for your reply!

the box has a 'r3' after the model #

That would be fine. Close to a neutral air pressure. I assume you have the three at the front blowing in and the three at the top blowing out. If you added one at the rear blowing out (the nor for a top rear), then you would create a negative air pressure that would bring more dust into your case.

Definitely do not use the metal washers. I would suggest some paper or plastic stickers (nothing metallic - if you could test with a multi-meter that would be best).

@@PE4Doersthank you sir! Another question, if I can get the adhesive insulator off the old motherboard would it be okay to reuse it even if it doesn’t stick to well anymore?

@@yorha2j525 If you don't tear it, then add a little non-conductive glue and it should work fine. It is only meant to be an insulator. Just make sure you don't use a tool that could damage any nearby lands when you take it off the previous motherboard..

I've never seen that, but I've heard that connecting to the RGB Controllers might be an issue. This unit draws the current for three ARGB Fans, and that may be part of the problem as well. You could connect each fan separately to a unique port and see if that solves the problem.

The top is 'Always' ideal, unless like me, you don't have room at the top. The second best is in the front, and the hoses at the bottom improves that location. Fortunately, the hoses on the Artic ar long enough to work that way in my chosen case.

I'm really not sure. Do you have both so you can try to fit it in?

It's the Corsair 520 Airflow, chic is not longer sold.

Absolutely, it came that way and I changed it at the beginning of the video. I wanted to have the RGB fans inside the case for a couple of reasons. First, it made for a better RGB presentation, and second I was able to get everything (including the GPU) to fit better for the case I had. Ideally, I would have liked to mount it at the top of the case with the fans blowing through the radiator and out of the case. I decided to try it in the front first, and if the temps didn't look good I would replace the case, but it came out running cool enough for my use-case as a VM Server.

@@PE4Doers Understandable, unfortunately, I can only install it from the front and with the tubes up, but it’s good news that it’s possible at all! Essentially, the radiator and processor will be held together due to the fact that they are pressed against each other and between them there is a plate on which the cooler is usually attached, is this ok too? Just little stange for me)

@@kto-to6129 As long as air is passing through the radiator you should be good. Make sure you some stress testing and monitor the cooling temps.

@@PE4Doers ok, thanks!

@@kto-to6129 You are very welcome Sir.

I thought the same thing, but I also realized if I left them off I might cause a spacing problem on the other side that could affect the cooler contact with the CPU. If I were to guess, they do that just in case some motherboard has lands too close to where the place contacts the board.

@@PE4Doers well all is fitted and working :)

@@n0spam911 Very nice. Good luck with it 😊

I apologize, but I have not tested it with a 'CPU contact frame'. Have you tried pulling off the pump/platen to see what the thermal paste spread looks like?

@@PE4Doers i spread it my self, to make sure the whole cpu be covered with thermalpaste, actually i just Changed the CPU Lite mode and the temps are just fine 65degree Furmark CPU burn test

@@NailsOffical That's great. I spread myself due to my experience as a 'Very Early' computer technician ans now that rectangular CPU are popular (mostly with Intel, of course). Have you carefully observed whether it compressed in all areas? That is the important aspect to take note of.

@@PE4Doers the problem was that msi mb push a lot of powerr to the cpu, so i needed to change the cpu lite mode to number 4 tried and everything is fine , this is what i found in reddit some people had same issue

@@PE4Doers and of course i set the pump to 100% maybe i change it later with the curve

The best performance, noise reduction, and pump life for an AIO is that the highest point in the case is either the entire AIO (for example when it is mounted at the top of the case), or the end of the radiator without the hoses being at the top. However only a few AIO/Case configurations allow for the hoses to be at the bottom when the radiator is mounted at the front of the case.

@@PE4Doers Thanks for the response, what do you think about the fans positiong, should the air be inhaled inside the case as you showed in the video (an why you did like that) because the air is coming to the case is HOT, shouldnt it pull the air outside the case?

Oh no, I'm so sorry to hear that. I did put a link to the online manual in the video notes, that seems to still work: support.arctic.de/lf2-360-argbr3 I believe that is what I used in preparing for the creation of this video.

Thank you.

It does support AMD (both AM4 and AM5), plus Intel 1200.

Thank you. However is that something I should report to my wife?

Ideally, if you have the room at the top for a radiator that cools the critical component, then it should go there - with the fans blowing up. Tat will get the heat out the best, then other fans can flow cool air in from the front or the bottom (if there is good ventilation there.

@@PE4Doers well, in my thought, front mounted radiator would cool the processor better, because radiator gets "fresh" cool air from the room. but the top mounted radiator will takes the "warm air" from the case, doesn't it? thank you for the answer

@@anjelomichelangelo7726 That is a great point. I still believe that getting the hottest air out as quickly as possible is best overall. You have inspired me to consider doing a test on that topic however. I would try both options with the same hardware and do some careful Heat/Performance measurement. Thanks so much for sparking that thought 🙂

@@PE4Doers thank you. good luck to your channel, your videos are really solid an enjoyable to watch 💛

@@anjelomichelangelo7726 Thank you so much Angelo

That is what I do. If you overclock your CPU, that might stress it somewhat.

I'm not sure what you mean by CPU Temp. Do you have a Fan controller with some special software? I've found that PWM is the way to go with any PC Fan connected to the motherboard.

It comes with everything that is needed to install on an AM5 socket. This trick is to sort out everything needed since the labeling of the little plastic bags can be somewhat confusing.

I'm not sure what you mean...

Your are very accurate on that. If I were not trying to also make video that would have the most interest (and therefore views), I would not have RGB.

What exactly do you mean by LcD?

@PE4Doers wow you reasoned after 2 months Props to you What I mean by LCD is a little screen on the AIO. Sometimes you can buy separate LCDS FOR IT, but this one has a fan, so idk if it's possible

@@Goldmanknight About any response delays - I use the 'Comments Screen' in my KZfaq Analytics to respond to most comments. Unfortunately, they sometimes block a comment that the AI engines suspects might be NOT generated, then put it back for me to see some time later (the longest I heard about was 4-months). When they are visible to me, I do my best to respond withing 4-7 days (since I have two days during a week that I take whatever time needed to respond to each and every comment). Sometimes I have a few minutes to look off-schedule, so I may seem to be responding sooner (like today). In terms of an LCD upgrade for this cooler, I have not heard on one being available. Thanks for the comment, each and everyone helps my Channel.🙂

@PE4Doers thanks for informing me I subscribed I am going to buy the thing either a corsair lcd I found out how to do it thanks

I agree partially, however I would have to replace the case since there is no room in this case to put them at the top. Maybe in my next build, when I'm using a larger case that would allow either, I can try both and do a temp change comparison.

Air always rises to the top and stay there unless the parts are reoriented. by having the tubes coming out of the bottom of my vertically installed radiator, and that top of the radiator being higher than the pump, all the air will eventually settle at the the top of the radiator. There are numerous other KZfaq creators that have explained that in their videos. Even GamersNexus explained in a follow-up video to the one that started the controversy, that his video was misinterpreted. Now if I were continually reorient my case from vertical to horizontal (Like every day of operation), they you would be correct. Even though it's possible, I do not plan on bringing my system up in a plane and doing loop-de-loops with the PC running. By the way, that would even hurt the pump if the radiator were mounted in the ideal position at the top of the case.

@@PE4Doers You're right, sorry. I educated myself now and won't make the mistake again

@@fisher_price No problem. If I were perfect I would be competing with Elon Musk and not have any time to these videos. Good luck. Oh, by the way, I use a 360 AIO a lot when bench testing, and I make sure to keep the end of the radiator without hoses attached elevated above the Pump on a box. I also hold the entire radiator above the motherboard for a few minutes as it is running just to cajole the bubbles to head into the radiator. I do what I can to avoid destructive practices.

My temps are excellent however. Never exceeding 70%. There are many other factors involved. Such as overall case cooling capability (with proper case fan placement), proper thermal paste spread, and the capabilities of the cooling solution overall. Please don't assume that some some unqualified computer engineer is always correct simply because they have manipulated their viewer base.

well let me explain, air is restricted by the radiator right? and in time dust will add to the radiator being in front pulling air restricting more and more, this is why u have to put fan's in front as intake so they have 0 restriction pulling air and rear as exhaust watch other installations u will never see anyone doing this i hope u will understand

@@music-lover200 A couple of things. First, there are differing tests on whether pushing or pulling air makes a significant difference. Second, you really need to make sure all air entering a PC case is 'filtered', which is what I always do. Dust will eventually lead to overheating and equipment damage/failure. I did it the way I did however, since I had a limited amount of space in that care (my basic error), which required that I adjust the layout to prevent damage from the fans to any cabling. I honestly do appreciate your feedback, and will be taking it as a 'Lesson Learned', that I will pass on to my viewers in future videos.

6 to 1 half dozen of the other scenario honestly. But I got to agree with the original guy who posted this. If you’re gonna insist on pulling through the rad and have the room add fans to do a push pull. I was watching this video thinking I hope he means swamping fans around to otherwise of the rad so it pushes them. But bottom line is as long as it is keeping the system in a cool state and never hitting the 90’s on a stress test then that’s all that matters. I have same setup but was having an issue with the rgb which is why I watched this video to begin with. To the content creator . Thank you for your time and patience you put into explaining everything in detail. 🍻

@@408civettethreat Well, I just have to say (as I've said before to comments on this video), that my temps are very good under high performance stress.

It's not ideal, but I want to keep a positive pressure of air in the case which will keeps things cooler in the ling run.

@PE4Doers you blow hot air on ur gpu. Ate u ok bruv?

@@d4nith3 I'm fine

I use it all the time. The tape needs to be paint masking quality (with improved adhesive).