Hi guys, I've been running a lot of tests to troubleshoot the Artillery SidewinderX1 uneven layer issue. So far I've done the following: - Installed TMC2100 drivers - Replaced the stock nozzle with a Trianglelab nozzle - Printed without the filament sensor - Printed with the spool on a different spool holder (Out from the printer) - Replaced the extruder feeding gear with a titan feeding gear This issue is most likely to be related to feeding problems and not Z wobble. However, I ran a few tests to confirm such as: - Replaced the spring couplings with rigid couplings - Printed without the top leadscrew bearings The results are still showing the uneven layers but I noticed a small improvement after replacing the nozzle. All the tests were performed by printing with the gcode cube provided by the manufacturer. Now I will print with my own profiles/models and check if there are any differences.

Hei guys, Alex here. Unfortunatelly i still don't have my youtube channel, but still I want to share my experience of this printer as a comment to the most helpfull video i watched trying to eliminate the problems of Sidewinder. So on I read all the comments here, did everything people said, but it was no help eliminating this so called @z-axis wobble. Then i tried the spiralize setting of Cura sliser for the vase. A little bit of shaman dance and wuoala - the print looked fine on all heights. Spiralize gradually changes z-axis coordinate during print in "vase" mode. Then i looked to the original config file of artillery sidewinder firmware and discovered that steps/mm on z axis was 399.778 (also for x and y axis it was 80.121), and the G-code was just saying the printer to move z axis to coordinate corresponding layer with two signs over coma. So the mistake has a cumulative character and after a sertain ammount of layers it just skipped a layer, then making the other one thinner resulting in "random" layer height over layer 63 (0.2mm layers). The solution: Add the following lines to your G-code preambula under @Cura->printers->artillery->machine settings M92 X80 Y80 Z400 Enjoy your clean layers )

more video on this printer will be great

Not too bad printer. I'm super excited to see the printer upgrade video :) Thanks for sharing!

it's great review. thank you very much, dear ruiraptor.

Thank you very much,Rui.It is good review.

Looks like a nice start point to make a good printer.

After this review, I will be staying with my cr10s

Nice review

Nice, thanks for sharing👍😀

Nice to hear Sandra her voice too. Further, what to say. The standard for reviews once again brought to a higher level. Keep up the good work for the 3D printer world. I hope the company takes your remarks into consideration to improve the product.

Wow,cool. Great printer, love it

Artillery Siderwinder is cool and high-quality with special features

a good review,a good printer

Cool! I want it.

Artillery SidewinderX1 is a best printer.

Nice video guys, printer looks very clean with a couple of minor issues. Would like to see if you and Nerys solve the uneven layer issue, be interesting to see if its a current to the stepper motor or the plastic cogs having some play in them when they turn causing pauses in extrusion.

Nice job, and I learned how to print with 3D printer as I have the same model but still I didn't run it.

Hi Rui. My printer will be here next week. question; what is this PID calibration you mentioned at 13:30 regarding the temperature? thanks

Hello, What slicer has been used to print the rocket? What profile has been used to get that print quality? Thanks!

Excuse me, but what secret about the Sidewinder X1 was revealed in this video?

There are a lot of things to like about this printer, but inconsistent extrusion seems a pretty big deal. Will you think about doing a "how to" tweak video soon on what needs to be done to get it tuned to its highest potential? That would really help me decide if I want to get one, or to go for some other "I3" type printer for my second one. Job well done on your videos, by the way. Informative and to the point. You are one of my four or five "go to" sources right now.

Hi friend, an excellent review, very detailed. Have you managed to solve the problem of layer shifting??? Thanks a los for your work.

Hello one question. Do you know how to choose the latest version of this printer or can I buy any?

Hey Rui. I have the exact problem with my tevo tarantula. The layers look absolutely perfect when viewed in a certain way, but once you look at them from an upwards angle you can see uneven layers. Im running the stock hotend and stock extruder and did not get this problem in the past. What do you think is causing it on both printers? Could it be the steps per mm on the motors? My best guess is Z backlash.

I just received my X1, and I noticed the WiFi button but can't find any documentation on it. How do you use this? Does this printer have WiFi built in?

Where can I find that rocket file?

Nice review, but not familiar with doing the IPD process ... what’s the best way to do that. Thanks.

Hi Rui. How would you compare this printer to the Tornado. I see some features I like but you mentioned some problems.

Hi! Looks like some better Flash/Ender-3 with a bigger printing area. Not sure if load/unload for this direct extruder is better than manual procedure in cases of some bowden extruders if there will be a need to change a spool in one print. Print bed seems to be great if they will be maintaining the same quality further. I would buy this if didn't have Flash :) I guess that Sidewinder's firmware can be changed by users.

flat cables maybe not designed for hotend as you said, but do you check how many cables are used only for the heater ? i'm sure they multiplied cables to avoid overteating But for sure I will buy 5 of this printers for my next batch printers for my printing compagny

Are the 3D printer companies starting to name their products like this too now? I thought it was supper silly with motherboards already.

You should watch the review(same printer) by that yoyo dude with the funny hair, I forget his name I think it is Brad he had uneven layers and then adjusted I think the z steppermotor where it connects to the ball screw and it went away!!!.........Thanks for sharing!!!

What causes the sidewinder to have a thermal failure shutdown?

My printer exhibit the same uneven layer extrusion issue and I replace my nozzle with stainless steel one and it works like a charm but the stringing is hell.

Can they just be replaced without making any changes in the firmware?

the uneven layering is caused by the titan replica design - the pressure on the filament is uneven due to the eccentricity of the feeder wheel in the big gear. Same issue on the newer versions of tevo flash.

dear Rui, I would like to info you that we updated the instruction about limited switches, pls kindly check, thank you very much.

I'll stick with my Tevo Tornado Thank you. ;-)

No ABL? The filament sensor is a good addition but no ABL makes no sense. It seems FDM printer design has plateaued with just more of the same with manufacturers just ripping each other off. Also, I could not find a source for a copy of the software to be able to modify or tune it.

Sick man

A clickbait'y title, nothing more than an unboxing and setup video.

"We tested the print-resume feature, *but, unfortunately, it didn't work* ." "In the menus, we can find the resume button. From there... *WORKS PERFECTLY* ." You might consider re-wording a few of those sentences. Despite the happy ending, it does SOUND like bad news, a little misleading for anyone NOT paying attention, or prematurely hitting the stop button on the video. But, as usual... another great video.

Ha looking at the comments you can tell the people who work for or been paid by the company to comment......that's not the way to do things

I have both the Sidewinder and the Genius and they have spent more time broken down than they have printing. The heat beds, ribbon cables etc they are cheap as he'll parts right through. There's a reason they are so cheap.

I do not like the restrained and interlinked z-axis I would prefer if they would get rid of the belt and the bearings at the top and it's dead at a second and stop for the second Z Motor that would take care of the uneven z-access draft every time that printer is homed Otherwise however the printer looks extremely nice and I look forward to digging into it tomorrow

retraction settings and/or bad extruders do dis.

Artillery warmly welcome more and more you to be our good partners. We warmly welcome you to be our distributors and have a good cooperations. best wishes.

What I'd like to know is... how the hell does anything stay stuck to the bed after the first print? I printed the cube. Came out perfectly. But I had to beat it off the bed, that it was stuck so hard. But after that, I couldn't get anything to stick to it. I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol. Took a yellowish film off the bed. Tried to print another filament spool holder. And nothing would stick. I wasted so much material (As everyone knows... a watched pot never boils.) because I would walk away, and THEN it would come loose, and fall off the bed. I had the bed preheated to 60, and the extruder to 200. From watching other videos, I accepted these settings to be the norm. Of course, I would level the bed just prior to the print. That's a project, all by itself. None the less... it got done. And every single time, it would get through 25%-50% of the project, and it would come loose. I've tried messing with the bed temp... 50, then 70, then 55, then 65. I'd walk away from it for a few minutes... and come back to a hay stack. I've even tried a glue stick, even thinning out the glue with an alcohol smear. For the love of God... WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WRONG?!!! Do I invest in glass? Or cover the bed with pre-mask tape, buy a gallon of tar, maybe a case of fly strips, or crack a beer & be thankful that I don't live under a bridge? There has to be an answer. Too many people are printing nice, BIG things, while I struggle to print a subway token. Really gettin sick of starting over, half way through a 6-hour print.

i have opened a new facebook group facebook.com/groups/2277023895866486/