Exactly I ground through my nozzle printing polyterra faster than I could realize that was an issue

Hard nozzles are less thermally conductive. They are much less than $3 more by the way.

Yes is very difficult to understand why they would make such a BAD decision, everyone praising the sovol sv06 with the Prusa clone style and they go with this unremarkable design that every company is using already. And if is more costy to produce, then just sell it for whatever the price you need to charge and people will buy it because the sovol sv06 already did the heavy lifting in terms on build confidence on the system (not to mention the original heavy lifting that Prusa already made before any sovol clone). Am I missing something?

I think they got stuck with the idea of the AUX fan, nothing to attach it too with linear rods.

@@joescalon541 They could’ve added a plastic bridge spanning where the x-axis is held up by the lead screws. It can be cheap plastic since the fan only needs to move with the gantry in Z direction. As it is, it’s more than $100 over the current price of the SV06 without $100 additional value. Better to DIY Klipper on a SV06 at that point and print something that allows you to mount a big fan or just put it on the side like Aurora did.

@@bru_haha I think the main issue is linear rod and bearing. With the quality of linear rods and bearing they delivered on SV06, 06 Plus, it won't do well on a faster speed printing if they don't switch to better supplier. The cheap bearing will make crazy among of noise during high speed printing and probably won't last long. Not necessary a step down for going back to t slot and wheels in my opinion, and make more sense for them from business perspective.

@@Broskisnowski 😆next one might be core-xy machine.

Bambu have a kit to convert P1P to P1S (the new enclosed version of the P1P.

I do as well, those are real bastards to work on repairs.

"It seems the biggest improvement comes from the extra fans rather than klipper." I don't think that's true. You don't get from 150mm/s to 250mm/s without a serious drop in quality, OR input shaping.

This machine is not bad. I am aware of the complaints within the 3D printing community, and in the video, I address some of the causes and discuss the issues I encountered.

I think they might ship with longer screws now as mine just fit perfectly.

Thanks for your thoughts. Any reason you avoid "mainsail"?

They just work the same, but I still like Fluidd more as I have another old PC with Klipper installed to control 6+ printers, I am more get used to the Fluidd menu and layout.

Have a look at the new Qidi range. X-Smart 3 etc. 3 different models. All enclosed, klipper, core xy machines.

@@whiskeyinthejar24 - I've bought seven Qidi printers. I bought the concept of good features at a low price, not considering reliability and support. I have five Qidi Tech printers that had great specs, on paper. In practice, they broke all the time and the fully enclosed design that was good for ABS printing made them much more difficult for me to service. Even worse, a year later, Qidi came out with a newer FDM printer and stopped supporting my printers. Even worse, Qidi used proprietary parts so when they stopped selling them, I couldn't buy them anywhere. Qidi's devotion to proprietary parts was so extreme that they used industry standard stepper motor driver boards but soldered the header pins on the other side of the board to reverse the pinout to force me to buy these open source parts only from them... and then they stopped selling them. I have my Qidi printers in boxes, because I couldn't stand the idea of throwing $3000 worth of year old printers that were new or nearly new into the landfill, but that's the only future they have. One of them is brand new. It arrived with a broken timing belt and I was too busy working on the other Qidi Tech printers to fix the new broken printer. By contrast, I bought a Sovol SV01 to replace the Qidi printers. I paid $238 over two years ago. It's been a reliable workhorse. The design is simple. It's a basic bed slinger, using industry standard parts. It's been the sole printer for my online business. In the last two years, I replaced the hot end heater soon after getting the printer using a very inexpensive cartridge heater for an Ender. Other than that, I've cleared two clogged nozzles and I really can't blame the printer for that. I spent a lot of time printing parts and very little time maintaining or repairing the SV01 printer. That's the opposite of my Qidi experience.

Bambu has LAN only mode. You don't need to use the cloud.

You need the source code of the firmware to build the bin file. If their intention is to make you buy their overpriced filament, I am not sure they will release the source code for you to modify it. Personally, I wouldn't buy machines with a closed filament system. Not only do I have to pay 2-3 times more for each roll, but the worst part is that if the company goes out of business, your machine will become a piece of junk. My advice is to simply sell your printer on eBay at any price while the company is still in business and buy a normal printer with an open filament system. This will allow you to enjoy the market price range of $12-$18 per kilogram roll of filament.

That was the screenshot of my brain :)

@@AuroraTech My PC just had the blue screen of death a couple hours before I watched your video, I thought it happened again 🤯

You can get very good discounts on the Kobra 2 so if it is close to the Neptune then that is the way to go.

I've had the printer for a while, but I haven't had time to open it yet because my schedule is full this year. I've scheduled it for early next year. I didn't see much difference from the SV07; it's most likely a pumped-up version.

It helps for those deciding if paying the higher price for the K1 is worth it.

​@@petercallison5765The consequence of competition is that comparable products are always priced similarly. However, it's worth noting that a price twice as high often results in a better machine, obviously. Besides the firmware, the SV07 and K1 have nothing in common. No matter where you look, everything is different. Even the kinematics are different: one is an open Cartesian printer with a horizontally moving heated bed, while the other is a closed CoreXY printer with a vertically moving heated bed. If your point was valid, would you consider comparing a $300 SV07 and an industrial Stratasys printer at $50,000? Nevertheless, I assure you that the latter is worth its price!

@@axelSixtySix "The consequence of competition is that comparable products are always priced similarly." Not necessarily so. When the SV-06 came out, it was immediately, and still is, validly compared to a Prusa MK3S+, which, still a kit, is still over twice the price of an SV-06. Comparable products, nowhere comparable pricing. The point of comparing products, even those at wide price points, is to see the relative value per $ spent. The 07 offers arguably the best mid-point of printing speed between cheap bed slingers and the K1, possibly the fastest bed slinger available.

@@brianmi40 Oh, let's have a friendly chat about the intriguing world of 3D printers! You know, sometimes it's like a magic show out there, with machines trying to impress us at different price points. But don't be fooled by appearances! The SV-06 might try to put on a show, but it can't quite reach the level of Prusa's quality. Those production cost savings have their consequences, you see. Now, I must say, there's been quite a buzz lately among SV-06 owners. Some of them have been reporting cracks on their injection-molded parts, and even the planetary extruder gears seem to be pulling a disappearing act a little too soon! I mean, nobody likes vanishing gears! It seems Sovol opted for the lowest quality bearings, and you know what that means - they're not built to last. When those bearings start to give in, and the injection-molded parts join the escape party, users find themselves in a bit of a pickle when it's time for replacements. It's like a 3D printer's drama! Ah, but let me tell you about our print farm stars, the MK3S+ and Mini+! These champs have been printing non-stop, effortlessly surpassing 50,000 hours without a hiccup. They're like the reliable companions we can always count on. On the other hand, our SV01 machines had a bit of an adventure within just 8,000 hours. New motherboards, extruders, bearings, and wheels were in the mix. Those wheels even demand a proactive change every 4,000 hours! Quite the drama queens, I must say. But we figured out a secret recipe to save the day! Swapping out those bargain-bin bearings for quality ones direct from the manufacturer did wonders. They've been holding up like champs ever since! But quality comes at a price, you know. Those top-notch bearings cost more than 10% of the entry-level Sovol's resell price. So, there you have it. No magic tricks or miracles in this story. Cheap machines simply can't tango with the expensive ones when it comes to quality components. It's like comparing apples to oranges - both are delicious, but you know which one has that extra sparkle! 😉🍎🍊

@@axelSixtySix "Oh, let's have a friendly chat about the intriguing world of 3D printers!" Yes, let's do. Let's start with PRICE: - cheapest price from the manufacturer (i.e. not 3rd party) that you can pay for an MK3S+: $649 - cheapest price from the manufacturer (i.e. not 3rd party) that you can pay for an SV-06: $209 Let's think about what that means for just a second. You can buy THREE SV-06s and STILL have money left over. THREE. "Now, I must say, there's been quite a buzz lately among SV-06 owners. Some of them have been reporting cracks on their injection-molded parts" It's always good to provide links to sources behind claims you make, that way we know it's not just one guy who dropped his printer out of the box. How many is "some"? and SOURCE LINK? "even the planetary extruder gears seem to be pulling a disappearing act a little too soon!" DITTO on source please. I searched REDDIT for BOTH your claims and found NOTHING. "But we figured out a secret recipe to save the day! Swapping out those bargain-bin bearings for quality ones direct from the manufacturer did wonders. They've been holding up like champs ever since! But quality comes at a price, you know. Those top-notch bearings cost more than 10% of the entry-level Sovol's resell price." Good to hear, because at even $8 each from McMaster-Carr, I can buy TWO SV-06s, have money for 10 new shiny bearings for EACH PRINTER, install them in WAY LESS EFFORT than an 8 hour MK3S+ ASSEMBLY, and STILL POCKET MONEY. "On the other hand, our SV01 machines had a bit of an adventure within just 8,000 hours." We're talking about the SV-06, try and stay on topic. "So, there you have it. No magic tricks or miracles in this story." Yes, yes we do have it: You can buy TWO SV-06s, purchase premium replacement bearings for BOTH, assemble them BOTH with the new bearings in less time than a single MK3S+ assembly of 8 hours, and STILL POCKET MONEY.

Yes, you don't need ABL to run with the Sonicpad. I just replaced the stock springs with some stiff silicone spacers. It works just fine, even though I didn't relevel it for a few months.

@@AuroraTech Hi would it be possible for you two to do a tutorial video on this? Eg how to get the z adjustment/levelling done etc. with the Sonic Pad? Thanks.

Hi just found one series by Ricky Impey channel fyi in case Thanks Laurie

The firmware limited the bed to 130C, when it heats up to around 115C, an error message will show up, and a restart is required. However, 110C seems fine.

@@AuroraTech Thank you!

Unless you have spare parts to test which part is faulty, it’s hard to tell.

No manufacturer think of just using some mobile phone as a base for screen? Blu View 2 $30 phone will run Octo4a to give you full wireless Octoprint, just not camera on the phone, though may in the future as they keep making improvements...

@@brianmi40 does the phone function solely as screen or can a phone be used to replace both raspberry and screen? I haven't been able to find resources on that

What corrosion comes from a printer bed surface?

@@brianmi40 If you notice the black wire coming from the top in 22:07

@@jta1436 Still not getting it. Do you know what corrosion is? "wires" don't cause "corrosion".

@@brianmi40 Stop the clip at 22:08. Look at the top half of the screen and lower your gaze. There is a red wire and a thick black wire under it. It descends from the top and ascends again in a U-shape. It appears to be rubbing against something until the brown wire is visible from the inside

@@jta1436 Understood now. That's abrading, not corrosion. Corrosion is a chemical process, not caused by friction. She needs to see if this can be pulled up to stop the wear.

I sell 3D printers for a living and in Australia at least, they are all dodgy. I have done a dozen claims and only one was successful.

I have never seen a proper video comparing those systems, just opinions based on nothing. I have never had to replace the rubber wheels so for hobbyists wear may not be an issue. If you can't adjust eccentric nuts you probably in the wrong activity.

Since it's only $20 more than a 06 today, they were thinking no one could Klipperize it for $20...

I don't get it, what is that?

$269 today.

Advertising a max speed that it can deliver, but print crappy at, is not false advertising unfortunately. These machines can MOVE that fast which meets the letter of the law.