Yep I do a fair bit of offroad use and I think the only "4x4" accessories I have bought is a winch rope and a snatch block also tyres the rest of the other things I have used better alternatives and made most stuff myself for better durability than the accessory garbage that's for sale at 3 times the price it cost to make... and yes my "catch can" is literally a 1.25 coke bottle with 3 hoses feeding into it 2 from rocker cover 1 down to chassis rail

@@bingysbackyard Agreed 100%. I'm a firm believer in the "KISS" method..."Keep It Simple Stupid"...☺

I’ve an ex Army Landrover 110, can’t agree more. I do fundraising offroad weekends and I’ve paid less all up than most have paid in added unnecessary accessories. Army had catch cans, will be checking my crank case pressure tomorrow after seeing this.

people are just dumber these days. all there is too it.

I just got a ryco catch can don't tell me this :( did install it myself tho.

Your steel wool to fine, used course ones

@@mohammadnoormauludadnan1847 stainless steel ones are best

this is wat i have done in the past

+ bigger hoses and issues solved :)

Yes. I am using loose-knitted SS pot-scrubbing pads and a heavily baffled inlet tube that runs to the bottom of the can to help evenly disperse the vapor throughout the SS wool filter. In my 4"X7" catch can with 1" entry and exit ports. Having great results. The can is equipped with a 3/8" ball check drain valve.

Yes and stop getting those filters that just clogged up! Catch cans are made to catch oil not filter it. SMH

Neither of you understand how these things work. They are not 'filters' as such. They dont trap oil vapor based on particle size. They essentially provide a large surface area for the air to spread out over, the speed slows down and the oil vapor drops out of the flow on the membrane, eventually building up and falling down with gravity. its called coalescence. Same thing those baffle types are trying to do, but far better. Also, plastic and metal... i dont know why you think metal is superior. You think metal is going to stay cool in an engine bay? metal will get hot and stay hot for longer. That is not the issue at all. No catch can system is designed to encourage cooling. At all. Do you see vents? fins? coolant lines running to them? There are no active or passive cooling features in catch cans regardless of material. Metal and plastic will both match the ambient temperature they are exposed to + temp of the air flowing through them. It is not a consideration at all. Unless you have found a catch can system that has tubes inside like an F1 style intercooler which are cooled by coolant or conduction to an external radiator... no. your metal baffles will quickly reach whatever temp they are exposed to. If there is high restriction being caused its because of poor design or setup. Not all catch cans are created equal. R&D is a real thing and if an aftermarket company is trying to cash in, its unlikely they have done extensive flow and efficacy testing. Also, If the user has set up a generic kit with poorly thought out hose lines, flow restriction may be caused and the blame will probably be levelled at the can itself. Truth is, most people dont understand bernoulli's principle. even so called 'technicians'. Ive heard apparently very experienced diesel mechanics make pretty dumb claims like 'water injection makes more power, therefore high humidity is better for horsepower' not uderstanding the function of change of phase. Technician indeed. ive seen lots of people claiming the steel baffled types are superior. This usually comes from the simple observation style 'its got oil in it, it must be working great' level of testing. Ive yet to see any amateur user or 'technician' perform any bench testing in a controlled environment that can confirm their claims or rival the available data a reputable manufacturer such as provent provides. To illustrate my point, ISUZU trucks have a factory optioned catch can system which uses a coalescence style filter... and the housing is made of plastic. Nuff said.

Isn't that most people though? At least the other half who have to also use their diesel for commutes/shopping during the week.

@@mickypoo yep. That’s partially my point. Clogged inlets are a small minority. And Most people don’t have catch cans

Certainly not mandatory, but it's important to have a can that doesn't add to the crankcase pressure if you do add one. I've run a home built can for almost 20 years on my gasser (3FE) with no leaks beyond the long-present oil pan seal leak, which is very slight anyway. The can has done great for keeping my intake manifold clean and preventing sludge buildup on my intake valves (last checked with a boroscope about three years ago).

That short drive story is used by so many people but it's wrong. Most engines are at operating temp within 5 to 10 minutes. I've had many diesels at work with clogged intakes and they have long commutes. The biggest factor to diesel engines clogging their intake apart from the EGR is oil choice. I still know mechanics in the trade that think Delo 500 is the best oil for all diesels. When they're run on the correct oil they can do 7500km intervals if the intervals are 15km. See this is the conundrum 15km intervals are for highway use city use ie the wives tale short trip story should be 7.5km intervals with the correct oil.

Great comment, thank you 👍

I don't understand why people would even install these. They need maintenance every few tens of thousands of km, things to change and replace in them etc. Why do all this, when you can just buy a new PCV valve in the same interval of time?

What electronic mod deals with EGR and the resulting gunge?

1940's "road draft tube".....popular until the 1960's Have a look at photos of old American concrete freeways.... A huge oil streak right down the middle of each lane where the dripping oil just fell on the ground.....

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq still see a bit of it today hahaha

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq lol yeah some roads still have them around the place.

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq iv seen cars with them in particular the 4jj1 Isuzu motors that have had them in the chassis rail for tens of thousands of kms and never had one drip. Can see a little bit of oil vapor that’s it.

@@Jay151 Go to China and make them change,see how it goes for you....

Shouldn't need too if doesn't have egr wouldn't it just burn it off anyway if there no egr?

Hey mate out of interest - why are baffled so much better than filtered?

@@tom6549 so you think it’s a good idea for VWs to burn 3L of oil through the engine and that that’s healthy for it??? Petrol engines are still effected by carbon buildup hence why VWs ping their engines to death especially when run on 91 like most of them are

@@1RednBlue there’s basically no restriction but the oil will hit the baffles and drop to the bottom of the can Won’t stop all the oil but will still stop the majority, i have a customer with a navara that empties his baffled type catch can every 5000km because it’s full so they clearly work well The ones with filters inside are too much of a restriction and in addition to the PCV valve and is why manufacturers hate them well why they hate catch cans in general

@@tom6549 also I know a local dealer who are getting mechanics I worked with to come in and do carbon cleans on their new DI vehicles Also ask Subaru why they have been selling upper cylinder cleaner aka carbon cleaner as a service item since the early 2000s before DI petrol was around

Agreed. Those catch cans that come with stainless steel “wool” ones will unlikely cause the back pressure

paper filters are just another way automotive parts producers rip you off

Well said I have an 80 too, you don’t need one on the old diesels haha, new ones however I think you do

@@AXDBTW that doesn’t make sense, so you wouldn’t t put one on an old diesel car but you’d put one on a new car and stuff up the rear main seal?

Yeah no doubt mate ya probably right there. I also rember a video roothy done at terain tamer while building Milo 2 where he put a catch can on a 12ht and recommended anyone with a diesel engine to put one on. I'm the world's most basic mechanic was always a bit bamboozled by it all. It's just been great marketing by the industry convincing alot of people that they need something they really don't.

So I have a 06 mustang 4.0 v6 that is supercharged. I'm confused by this as well with my own scenario. The pcv has essentially been deleted, meaning the hoses are no longer on the pcv valve passenger side and drivers side ccv. My egr has been deleted as well. Mostly because of the install of the supercharger and it taking up the room to put back on, but after doing some research the egr delete is a good thing with superchargers. I live where no emissions are a thing, so me personally am not worried about that. So I'm thinking of adding a oil breather cap and a closed loop 3 port catch can to connect to the pcv and ccv. The "out" hose I'll run to the frame of the car and thus should theoretically get a bit of ventilation out of that as well. Your thoughts? Thanks

@@06hunter54 Yes, the older diesel engines don’t have egr so you don’t need one, it’s a complete waste of time. The problem is with later diesel’s and the egr. The pvc returns engine vapour to the intake manifold so it leaves an oily residue in the manifold which is not a problem but when the egr valve opens it allows exhaust to enter the inlet manifold at the same time. The egr is not open all the time, only under certain light driving conditions, but when it is open the oil vapour and soot from the exhaust mixes together to for an almost cement like build up. This can eventually block the intake manifold. The catch can is designed to catch and separate the oil vapour before it goes into the inlet manifold thereby reducing the buildup of gunk in the manifold. A catch can is not a maintenance free item and the can needs to be drained periodically, I do mine every six months just before my Cruiser goes in for a service and the filters need to be changed at specified intervals. It can be surprising to see not only how much oil drains out but the amount of water too. Just to note the egr only opens at light throttle and below about 60km/h if memory serves me correctly so vehicles that do a lot of highway miles have much less of a problem. The whole Exhaust Gas Recirculation system is only for pollution reduction. There are different methods for disabling the egr such as blocking plates but these can cause error codes, there are ways around that, and more recent are plug and play computer chips that trick the ecu into to keeping the egr valves closed without throwing up error codes. These are for pre dpf vehicles. I have a 2020 Sahara so it’s got the dpf as well so that’s a whole other issue that I knew nothing about when I ordered the car. I had a particular set of circumstances that lead us to ordering the car over the phone without even sitting in one or going into the dealership. So far I have had no issues with the dpf and it’s very easy to see how it’s going, the automatic regeneration work perfectly but if I need to do a manual regeneration it’s just a press a button, but again it’s just something to keep an eye on. I hope this helps to clarify why later diesel engines can benefit from a catch can. Cheers Stuart.

Better option is to delete EGR through tune or delete cable, don’t really need a catch can if EGR not being used

My experience can hold a stand here that my 3.0 AUDI TDI got a diesel runaway after a year of OCC usage. The crankcase pressure buildup was slow but steady, eventually leading to my valve cover gasket blowing up, causing a large amount of oil to spill. The most damage was done to the small oil pathways, which are more sensitive to oil pressure changes, such as the oil cooling system in the turbo. The pressure eventually burst the cooling tunnel in my turbo, letting the working turbo suck in a massive amount of oil directly into the combustion chamber and financially contribute to the catastrophic runaway event.

@@trophybanana OMG, that's really bad.

Leave the guy alone ;) Now Dan has to spend time chasing this up when there is nothing more to discuss - you don't need a catch can or the manufacturers would have fitted it, but if you want a catch can, get one that introduces minimum restriction.

I was thinking the same thing, I’m going to put one on my 80 because I found oil in the bottom of the intercooler

Seen this a few times first thing i check now if the breather is blocked.

Thanks for the comment Glen! I really appreciate the info!

I made a mistake on my td42 when installing the turbo . silly mistake but thought I blew the turbo but that wasn't the case. was just that the turbo wouldn't drain oil and started spitting oil out the exhaust . all due to crank case presure . I don't think the amount of presure your talking about would cause the rear main seal to leak . or likely to see your turbo leaking oil out into your exhaust

@@mathewsimonelli1332 Crank case pressure can cause the turbo seal to leak on older engines especially if the seals are older and not 100% perfect. I see this all the time and common on diesel engines mostly with catch cans. Not with the same mileage/ age petrol engines because not common or trendy to fit catch cans on petrol turbo engines.

Another thing is people having the turbo drain too low on the sump, below the oil level causes preasure in the turbo to push the oil out too

Repurposed now useless Hummel figurines ?

hahahalololol

Yeah 100% could be that too, I was just curious into whether the catch could had accelerated this happening

But the rate of oil leaking when the engine runs can be minimised by "sucking" the crankcase to a slight vacuum...?

The catch cans sole job is to catch oil particals it doesn't change the amount of pressure even though you kind of proved it does... I changed the rear seal on mine when the clutch went then fitted the provent knock off catch can 7 years no leak

Yep. Get a catch can with a pressure relief valve as an integral part of it.

Yeah that’s what I was thinking would be better. It just reduces the flow a fraction, not restricts it. And that would catch the vapours.

This is what i use, it has a mesh filter and thats it, catches heaps of oil overtime

Lmfao may as well not even run a catch can. The baffle ones are garbage, and with all the oil they let get past you may aswell not even have it fitted.

@@krump743 They definitely aren't as affective as the filter type, but from my experience they still collect a fair amount of oil.

Thats exactly what i was thinking, my provent has a pressure valve.

@@vincegiordmaina4440 spot on I have all my mates running provent 200 and thay all happy with them and there is a lot of reports of hpd ryco and so on having problems

Thanks Morgan, yeah heard pretty good things about them

@@AussieArvos you guys seen the same effect when removing the restrictive filter, replace it with some steel wool bud n it won't pressurise your internals

I put one of these on my td42 easy to install and a quality Aussie made billet aluminium construction, idiot it at 320k after I replaced the intake,turbo,manifold, and intercooler engine is still running fine but I wanted to reduce the vapour going into the intercooler

I had one of the HPD cans, they still spit enough oil vapours out to slowly fill my intercooler with gunk. And yes the can was emptied, so I ended up just removing it to get back some space. now I just run a single hose down to the chassis, illegal I know but hey I gave up on catch cans and wasting Hundreds of dollars...

@@sm9300 "illegal I know" .... I hope your best mate or Dad don't drive a motorbike. Oil on the road can kill people guy, and just because you're one person doing it with limited oil doesn't mean shit, you're contributing to the problem.

Just on that topic, can newer diesels run it into atmosphere or they need to be plumbed for back pressure or something? Not mechanically minded just something I read somewhere saying modern diesels cant run it straight out into atmosphere.

Full vent to atmosphere or suck it back in at the air filter and live with the crap in the intake

@@gasnxt6805 so what happens to the inlet pipe in manifold just block it off?

@@06hunter54 Not sure on modern diesel's mate, but no matter the engine it'll benefit from not having oil rammed down it's throat, the only thing that i can think of would be that having it plumbed in there will be sensors reading that gas and adjusting accordingly for the emissions. No doubt if you disconnected it and it was a problem on a new diesels a fault code will thrown.

@@06hunter54 yep

1940's "road draft tube".....popular until the 1960's Have a look at photos of old American concrete freeways.... A huge oil streak right down the middle of each lane where the dripping oil just fell on the ground.....

Holden did so until the 70 maybe the 80s

An have money for beers to laugh at the idiots running them...

@@jonathanwright5550 No they didn't. Maybe in the 50's or early 60's, but certainly not into the 70's, and definitely not into the 80's🤣🇦🇺

@@simonilett998 I've seen them on common doors there's hose straight off the tappet cover dropping the gases to the road

not a set and forget thing

@@grimreaper6112 even the new filters restrict flow drastically

Yes catch cans do restrict the original airflow intended for cars to have but there’s one simple solution or fix. Just install a one way check valve crankcase breather to replace your regular engine oil cap. That way the crankcase pressure is released and problem solved. This is my own personal setup for my 2023 Ford F150 5.0 Coyote and it works perfectly!

Let's go over this slowly.... you want a CC with no baffling and nowhere for the oil mist to slow down and condense out... logically without a filter medium of some sort....condensing and falling out, let alone collection.......is not going to happen. But you will have maximum vacuum produced...so there will be a slight vacuum on the CC. So the "vent" filter will actually be filtering the air entering the CC from outside????

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq i said baffled, as in u want to use baffled not a filter