Gay

thanks so much for donation as well as support!

thanks so much for the donation as well as support, and also for your excellent engagment, questions and comments on so many vids :)

Thanks for the lovely comment! And that is an interesting suggestion, i hadnt thought about doing that but perhaps that might be a fun one just for general nerdy info. The tacx neo are overall surprisingly hardy - i was pretty worried when i started that putting a consumer level piece of equipment through basically industrial level workload would mean buying them fairly frequently which would really hurt viability. I was hoping they would last 100,000km. the original went 225,000km. The 3 i have in the new workshop i need to do an upload and re tally to check where they are at, probs each approach circa 100,000km as we are nearing half a million kms tested all up (thats probs a good time to do that vid :)) Overall the the neo's are pretty easy if you have the tool to remove the flywheel. They have a very big main bearing which will never wear out. They have a big 6002 in the flywheel which lasts..... not as long as they used to before garmin bought tacx...... it seems they have gone to a cheaper bearing. or i have been unlucky with the neo 2's vs ones. The main hack for me, is that the freehub bearings (2 little 6802's) just are not up to it. they will likely last most people about 10,000km of ergo, which takes most awhile, but thats insufficient life before crapping out for my use, so i simply take out the spacer and replace that with 3 more 6802's so its running on 5 bearings vs 3. then we are cooking for circa 50,000km vs 10,000 or about 10 good tests vs 2. but yes thanks for the suggestion, i will look at doing the above for fun sometime in 2024!

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Wow, more than 100,000 km with replacing the bearings. That is really impressive. Looking forward to the video.

sorry i did an initial comment as i thought you were referring to ZFC gaming the independent testing, then i saw your next comment and realised (phew) you must be referring not to zfc :)

thanks benjamin! and ah yes that is a pretty extreme challenge! check the waxing and wet video - but basically the path you take is going to be based on a few things - ie price of groupset and how much you want to preserve against wear - if its a good $$ groupset - then a path that focusses on resetting contamination as much as practical (ie immersive waxing, multiple chains on rotation) is something to look at. If groupset is budget and the aim is just to hammer it through winter with minimal time spent on trying to keep chain low friction, you just dont want it to rust - then really all you need is good wet lube. If salted roads and rust an issue, then you will want to wipe post ride at work with isopropyl alcohol spray and microfiber cloth, and do same when home adding a very light top up to protect against any oxidation - it can even be jsut put some lubricant on cloth and wipe chain so not over lubricating if doing every wet day and its wet multiple days (again how much lubricant you need to replace will be individual to you - how long is commute, how wet etc - if it got smashed - re lube, if just spayed -then simply light re-coating of surface to protect and not over lube which is a mess etc). hope that helps a bit to start!

Thank you for an in depth answer, that helps a lot! 💫☺️

Hey paul sorry for delay, still catching up a bit post jan leave! I think most such products will be fine - but you could be doing a lot of steps all up there - ie it sounds like grease and wax remover then turps then metho then acetone. Thats a process. And wax and grease remover tends to be very expensive. A few 250ml baths of turps (with an initial 15 mins soak), dry, 2 x 250ml baths of metho - dry - that is perfect for most chains (sram usually a couple more cos... sram factory grease is a pain in the taint). Acetone vs metho is brilliant - but again, generally more expensive, and a lot more fumes to worry about -metho is easy stuff to handle.

Hey savaios! - oooh could be tricky - the 817 is for min 40t cassettes, so the parallelogram of the mech wont move right for 36t max (it will step down / up at higher amounts as it will expecting larger radius jumps in cog sizes - so your guide wheel, when set correctly to clear the 36t cog - may remain too tight to subsequent cogs. to prevent that you would have to set further out for the 36t, and all up - you can usually get it fine, just more faffy to get it to shift beautifuly accross the range vs being not perfect in some spots. The 815 mech is made for a 34t, so that will be a closer match re how the mech moves to the step changes in cog radius. But.... then if you did want to go to a larger cassette in future, you will have a worse problem trying to get it to work. (watch my when 1x goes wrong video). for 11spd, srams xx1 chain is very long lasting but not super fast. shimano ultegra is fast but moderate longevity. YBN is a great balance of both speed and longevity so they are the main recommendation for 11spd systems.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Thank you.

I will switch to xtr or xt cs. I think will be safer.