Ball Screw Rack (aka Driven or Rotating Ballnut) Prototype

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The Wizard of Overall Creek

The Wizard of Overall Creek

3 жыл бұрын

Quick update video of revised design here: • Ball Screw Rack update...
And same config milling aluminum: • Ball Screw Rack w/ Nyl...
Longer screws suffer from sagging under their own weight, which gets translated into "whipping" when rotated at high speeds. It's worst when the driven carriage is at either end and less of the screw is supported.
Conventional means of combatting this are to add high tension to the screw. This can complicate installations in terms of screw alignment and requires high rigidity of the frame for larger format machines, creating a situation where cost can increase sharply as machine work envelope increases.
Industry has answered this problem by rotating the ballnut instead of the screw. This is a more complex assembly than simply turning the screw and usually built into large format industrial machines as part of machine design. Not typically available for the high end hobbyist or "prosumer" type user in kit form that's compatible with off-the-shelf ballscrews. I'm in the process of developing just such a kit for entry level commercial and high end hobby and prototyping shops.
Below are the Fusion 360 design files appropriate for a typical SFU/DFU2005 ballscrew, NEMA23 stepper and integral GT2 48T pulley. It is designed to work with a pair of 6809 radial bearings (they are cheap). I will convert it for 1605 use at some point. The number of pulley teeth and many other paramters can be adjusted using the parameters sheet. Please inspect the model carefully after doing so as I'm not sure how durable the design is in response to these changes. Please note these files are only to serve as a starting point for your own efforts at this point, and should not be treated as production ready. Please inspect before attempting fabrication.
The weak part of this design is definitely the mounting bracket (which fastens the whole assembly to the gantry or driven part of yourvmachine) , but I have made this a separate part so it can be customized to get the most rigid shape for your machine's clearances. I had a very tight fit and was limited with what I could fit here. The design file has the part completely containing the ballnut (a ballnut representative model is in the design but not intended for you to fabricate this, only to see hwo it all fits together). Note that the part labeled as "driver" is designed to be made in duplicate (or triple) to use like a locknut against each other between the bearings (this takes up the lash). The other pulley piece I fixed in place by drilling and tapping for a setscrew. You could also make a 3rd "driver" part as the thread is all the same pitch here.
I made the driver and related assemblies from 3d printed nylon, which seems plenty strong for a router intended to carve wood and non-ferrous materials. The rest I made from mild steel and this is the material I'd recommend. Aluminum may not be quite strong enough at these thicknesses, but if you do use aluminum probably you want at least 6061/6063 or better.
Fusion 360
a360.co/3Ap20rt
These files are made free to the community to help hobbyists, emerging small businesses and those in developing economies. Just participating in the adoption of the design and giving feedback is a good way to help the effort. But If you can afford to donate monetarily to these efforts, any amount helps and goes directly towards me being able to spend more time making these designs (and eventually products) available. There is a Paypal link on the channel banner's lower right corner.
Purchasing crafted items from my Etsy store also is way to contribute while also receiving tangible product. Thanks for looking and supporting! Have fun crafting!
www.etsy.com/shop/WizardofOve...

Пікірлер: 13
@jamieclarke321
@jamieclarke321 2 жыл бұрын
Did you ever release your design files for this and will you make any more videos on it? my machine is very similar to below. 1605 ball screws limited to about 1200mm/s or else screw whip is too high. I did use a moving steady in the center which helps but would rather go with a driven ballnut
@calphis
@calphis 2 жыл бұрын
I have made the current design files (something of a work in progress but a good starting point for others) available. It's for 2005 only though right now. It's in the video description text. When I find time in the next few months I intend to adopt this for 1605 as well (though it won't be terribly hard for you to do if you're just a little bit familiar with Fusion 360, I made most of it with Parameters rather than hardcoded values). I will try to make an updated video soon. It's not much different, just key parts made from metal now and different sizes.
@jamieclarke321
@jamieclarke321 2 жыл бұрын
@@calphis thanks wizard. I can fusion myself so can adjust values especially if it’s already parametric. I did check the description before but didn’t see link. Cheers 🍻
@calphis
@calphis 2 жыл бұрын
@@jamieclarke321 I only just added it in response to your comment. I haven't tried to change much in there yet, and I can't promise that a few values didn't get boogered or hardcoded despite my efforts to design it in a portable way. So be careful and good luck! :)
@calphis
@calphis 2 жыл бұрын
@@jamieclarke321 Also here is a quick update video of what the revised design looks like implemented in steel and nylon. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bLxzktKHvr3Jcp8.html
@StafPypen
@StafPypen 3 жыл бұрын
interested, i am planning on building my own rotating ballnut setup for my diy cnc router. My x-axis is 2850mm long and my y-axis is 1550mm long, using one on each side of the machine. I have a lot of whip when i go over 1000mm per minute with my 1605 ballscrews on my y-axis(es). I wasn't very informed when i bought those, if i would do it again, i would buy 2010 version or so. I have Nema34 motors on all my axis. Meanwhile, since i am using the machine since 5 years, i learned a lot about drive systems. And the driven ballnut to me, is the best way to go for my machine to keep the upgrade as cheap as technicaly possible. So, i have been watching various video's on youtube by now. I am curious as how you will have solved this problem for your machine. I will have to have my components made by someone else, as i don't have access to metal lathe and such. I don't know if printed components would survive the stress, the plans that i will draw up, will be aluminium parts. I am following your channel from now on, looks like we share the same endavour ;-) Cheers Staf
@calphis
@calphis 3 жыл бұрын
Based on my limited experience with this so far, while diameter does help, past a certain length it really starts to become an uphill battle regardless. My X axis is 2500mm long with screws on either side. Originally set up the conventional way the critical speed was 3000mm/min but still a lot of vibration at that speed. A more practical speed to not kill the ballnut in 3 months might be more like 1500-2000mm/min. With driven nut now, the limiting factor is now my undersized NEMA23 3.0A steppers (about 2.4Nm). I am achieving about 4500mm/min with this arrangement. I remade my brackets from mild steel about 5mm thickness. That pretty critical to get rigidity, but other components can be synthetic. The "driver" assembly I call (which screws to the nut and rides on rotary bearings) is still 3d printed, but I printed from Nylon this time with 50% infill. It's proven plenty strong and that's a very complex part with critical dimesion features on all sides and faces. So worth it to 3d print if you can get away with it. I changed the bearings to 6809 to make the whole assembly thicker. Didn't quite have space for a proper thrust bearing, as I am limited to about 70mm in the space most convenient to mount all this to the gantry. So I squeeze the bearings together with the mounting bracket to eat up the lash, so I can use high radial load bearings for cheap, vs a proper thrust bearing with lower friction. I let the stepper motor eat the friction. Not ideal, but still a lot better than what was there, and was able to build the entire assembly from about $40 in parts. I will post the design files here later, you are welcome to use as much of it as is helpful to you. The goal is to also make parts kits for sale eventually, and I am going to convert my Y axis to driven nut as well, so these designs will get adapted to 1605 before too long. Thanks for stopping by!
@StafPypen
@StafPypen 3 жыл бұрын
@@calphis thank you Wizard. I think we both think alike in this matter. It's good to know that someone is doing this with 1605 ballscrews for a change. I like the numbers you are putting down. I want a little more speed from my machine, eventhough i am retired :-)
@calphis
@calphis 2 жыл бұрын
@@StafPypen Thanks! The X axis here is 2005 but I am about to the same thing with the 1605 on Y next. I plan on making all the part designs available for download. And maybe later I'll make some prefab parts available for sale if there is a need. Thanks for stopping by!
@StafPypen
@StafPypen 2 жыл бұрын
@@calphis my pleasure
@benash2954
@benash2954 2 жыл бұрын
One option is to put a travelling support on the screws. basically get a piece of plastic (PP or PE) that wraps around (partially or fully) the ball screw and mount it onto the guide rail using a bearing block or similar such that it can travel along the guide rail while radially supporting the screw. Your carriage will push it along so it doesn't crash the machine. Add another support on the other side of the carriage and attach the two supports using a linkage that's about half as long as your carriage travel. With the carriage at one end of its travel, one of the supports will be located around the middle of the screw (due to the length of the linkage). As the carriage moves towards the other end of the travel, initially nothing will happen but then the carriage will make contact with, and push the first support along which will drag the other support along with it. By the time the carriage gets to the other end of the travel, the second support is now in the middle of the screw. In this way you can effectively halve the unsupported length of your ball-screw which increases the critical speed.
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