I really enjoy doing both, I do a lot more stock removal in the summer due to the temps we hit, I appreciate you watching!

I really miss knifemaking, forging was my favorite part!

Thanks! You do end up having to be a jack of all trades, the hard part is being good at all of them. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks for watching, I greatly appreciate it, and best of luck on your journey!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I am glad they are helping out, and I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! Maple is one of my favorites to work with. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching! We are really glad to have hime home as well. I have been super busy outside as well, being away from our place here in Oklahoma for 9 months in Alaska sure gave me a lot of work to catch up on.

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Nice my friend never tought of using nails for pins before

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! Maple is one of my favorite woods to work with and one of my most requested handle materials. I have been making good headway on my backlog hopefully I will be back to taking orders soon. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Glad to help, I appreciate you watching.

1095 is one of my favorite steels to work with. That is awesome! I have been thinking about doing a leather knife or an Ulu for some time now myself. I appreciat eyou watching!

Thanks, i appreciate you watching.

Thanks! I greatly appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I do minimal forging on the bevels for knives that I want to clean all of the forge marks off of, I focus more on forging the profile and keeping it the same thickness, I do occasionally forge the bevels in and go pretty thin but it just depends on the build. I appreciate you watching.

I love all the souls style games, I just recently beat Demons Souls on my PS5. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks for checking it out, I greatly appreciate it!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching! I currently use a propane oven on a regular kitchen stove. I do plan on purchasing a heat treat oven in the future.

Thanks! I appreciate you watching. 1095 is blade quality steel by forging it out it allows me to get more out of the bar. If I were doing stock removal only there would be a lot of waste left from cutting out the knife blank and to use it I would have to put it in a canister and use powdered steel to make a useful bullet. If I forge the knife I can get 4 knives from one bar where I could only get 3 by doing stock removal therfore maximizing the usable steel. 1095 and 5160 are the steel types I use most in my Damascus and regular bladesmithing work.

Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching! I used 15 min epoxy from www.popsknifesupplies.com

Thank you! I appreciate you checking it out!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching! A knife like this normally takes me around 16 hours to complete, that includes hand sanding and sheath work. When I sell these I price them at 125 with a leather sheath.

@@Mysticmountainforge are you selling them not to make a profit? That’s $7 an hour minus cost for supplies.

​@@shaunpenman2863exactly

​@@Mysticmountainforgeonly 125!!!!??? :/

Thanks! I used the cross peen side of my hammer to help draw the tang out both longer and wider then went back with the flat face to smooth everything out. It allowed me to push the steel I a certain direction where the flat face of my hammer would have pushed steel in all 4 directions. ABS Mastersmith Burt foster has some entry level Bladesmithing courses on his website where he teaches the method more in depth, they are only like 25 dollars and have helped me immensely. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I used dye because maple is pretty pale naturally and the dye helps darken the grain to help it stand out more. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I just got in some blue and green dye yesterday and I am really looking forward to using them. I appreciate you watching!

@@Mysticmountainforge Yes sir !! Have been a subscriber for sometime now. I didn’t find you on Instagram.

@@timjohle8876 instagram.com/mmforge/ here is a link that may help.

@@Mysticmountainforge Thanks brother. I found you.

Thanks, I appreciate you watching! Congratulations on getting into the most epic craft in the world! I would suggest a 1x30 from grizzly or a 2x42 from jet but they can be a little underpowered for some things and they have huge limitations. My first 2x72 was a grizzly single speed G1015 but for just a little more you can get an OBM 2x72 from origin blademaker, I used the OBM for almost all of my earlier big Bowie and sword builds, and as soon as I get a new motor for it I will be using it along side my Broadbeck. I would purchase a 1x30 to start out because you can do smaller knives like the one in this video with it and it is cheap, the grizzly was 145 from amazon. I would save up and buy a KMG, OBM, or Broadbeck just make sure it has a vfd, they are gamechangers, nothing beats being able to slow your grinder down to a crawl for working detailed tight spots.

Thank you for watching, I greatly appreciate it! I normally don't, sometimes if I am working a large Damascus billet I put a fire brick ar the back but not every time.

It looks like tiger maple

Thanks, I hadn't either until I moved to Alaska for 9 months and it was taking forever to get pin stock in the mail, I belive it is the 16 penny box nail that is pretty much the same as 5/32 which is what my normal pin stock was. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! Yes it was hardwood ash, I put it in there to anneal. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks, the stock was pretty thin to start with, and I was worried about leaving hammer marks too deep to grind out, I always forge thick and grind thin mainly due to a lack of experience forging bevels, but I am working on getting better at it. I appreciate you watching.

It is an awesome craft to get into. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! That is a file guide, it helps keep your plunge lines even. You can find one here: www.amazon.com/File-Guide-with-Carbide-Surface/dp/B06XHCWQ76 they aren't cheap but they are worth every penny and are pretty much a one time purchase, I have been using the one in the video for full time knife making over a span of 3 years. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks, I am working on getting set up to do voice overs for the videos to help explain everything better. I put the knife in ashes to allow it to cool down slowly, it anneals the steel and makes it easier to cut, drill and grind. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! I just used what I had on hand to show how to make a simple knife for those just starting out. Everything used in this build besides the steel came from my local hardware store. I normally prefer brass pin stock.

Thanks! Using the method I use on here seems to work well, the feedback I get from hunters that use my knives is that they hold a really good edge for skinning and processing multiple game animals.

@@Mysticmountainforge thanks. Looking forward to making my own soon. Always wanted to!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching! I bury the knife in ash to allow it to cool down slowly which anneals the steel it makes it easier to drill and grind, steel will sometimes work harden and can be a nightmare to drill. You can do the same process with floor dry or a clay based cat litter.

Thanks! It was maple, I got it from Home Depot, it was in their hardwood dept. I appreciate you watching.

Would also like to know how that was done.

@@4TheJoesbyaJoeI was looking for it and I think it's like this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z6dmbKZoxrzHZJs.htmlsi=rieG2uEB48_28v04 Is in German, but you can activate the subtle...

It is hardwood ash, you can also use a clay based cat litter, I do it to alow the steel to cool down slowly, it steel can work harden and this makes it easier to drill the pin holes in the handle. When you heat treat (quench) a knife it makes the metal extremely hard, this in turn also makes the metal extremely brittle and prone to breaking or chipping so we temper the steel to bring it down to a hardness that will hold a edge but also hold up to cutting tasks the knife will be required to do. I do a 2 hour cycle at 400F for my 1095 and 5160 steels, this has yielded a result that has held up extremely well in real world use for hunting and regular everyday use. I am more than happy to help, I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge ok wow thank you so much that cleared a lot of questions for me, now do you do the heat treatment in ur forge or in an oven for 400 for 2, 1 hour cycles?

Also what oil do you use for the quench?

When I first started I used vegetable oil, it will work great on steels like 1080 and 5160, and is readily available. A quench oil like parks 50 costs significantly more but is made for quenching knives. I appreciate you watching.

Not really, some say it's for rhythm, a lot of times I just drop it on the anvil and the rebound makes it bounce on the hardened anvil face. As far as I know it doesn't help with much of anything but is a habit we form sometimes. I appreciate you watching

Ah I gotcha that makes sense now. Thank you for sharing this. I'm excited to get started.

I hand sand the blade up to 600 grit making sure to remove all scratches from previous grits, then I make sure to take time on the last grit to do straight pulls so all the lines run in one direction. Doing this will give you a nice finish like on this blade. If you get a chance check out Nick Wheelers KZfaq channel, he has a really good video covering proper hand sanding. I appreciate you watching.

That is my height gauge, it can be found pretty affordable on amazon. I appreciate you watching. www.amazon.com/Measuring-Precision-Aperture-Magnetic-Standing/dp/B07QMRFFBC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2C6QZ0OO22GFA&keywords=height+gauge&qid=1704422297&sprefix=height+gau%2Caps%2C1044&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

@@Mysticmountainforge aaaahhhhh okay. Thanks!

I use a 3 burner forge from Majestic forge but a 1 or 2 burner forge will work great for any application, Mr volcano makes some budget friendly models that work really well. www.amazon.com/Volcano-Hero-Stainless-Professionals-Blacksmith/dp/B091SFMK9C/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mr+volcano&qid=1694537989&sr=8-2 here is a link to the single burner model. I appreciate you watching!

I use an electro etching machine, it is called a personalizer plus. I appreciate you watching.

Forging allows you to take a smaller piece of steel and forge it into a larger knife that wouldn't have been possible via stock removal because of their not being enough material. Forging is more labor intensive and requires more work than stock removal. Stock removal is the best place to start for a beginner. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge awesome, thanks man!

I get them at www.img-electromark.com they ship them extremely fast when you place your order, they also carry the electrolyte solution as well in bulk bottles. I appreciate you watching.

Thank you. By the why I forgot to tell you great job on the knife and video.

Thanks, I appreciate that.

Thats not a dumb question at all, usually I will forge a knife when the piece of steel I have is too small to do a stock removal knife, forging it allows me to draw it out and shape the steel into the pattern or style I want. I forged this knife and many others here on the channel from bars of steel for teaching purposes. The stock removal method is quicker and less labor intensive due to the fact that you remove the entire forging process of the knife which makes it great for beginners or for those who make pattern welded steel and don't want to distort the pattern through the forging process. I do a little of both here on the channel but most of the viewers I have like to see the forging process so I do a lot of that style on here. The knives I make to sell off camera are most usually stock removal from 1095 or 5160 becaus eit is the most cost effective way for me to make them at the price I sell them at, when it is all said and done no matter if it is forged or ground to shape there will always be some stock removal to be done. Here is a link to a video I made a couple of years back showing how to make a knife without a forge. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n9V1epej0p6whok.html I appreciate you watching.

It was just the pattern from the grain in the wood, the sanding did help bring it out though. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge thank you so much! You do great work.

It was hardwood ash, you can do the same with a clay based cat litter or floor dry. I leave it in there to anneal so it's easier for cutting and grinding. I appreciate you watching.

125 with a leather sheath where I live, you could probably go as high as 225-300 in an area where people get paid more. I appreciate you watching.

I let the dye dry completely then apply 6-8 coats of Tru oil allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. You can also coat the handle with super glue, let it dry then buff it by hand with a piece of denim. I appreciate you watching!

@Mystic Mountain Forge Thank you so much, BEAUTIFUL work Sir. I'll get there eventually haha

The steel cools down quicker where it is hammered due to the hammer face pulling heat from the steel when it is hit. The hammer face is substantially cooler than the steel and doesn't hit it at a fast enough rate for the kinetic energy of the blow to reheat it, now if I were forging this steel under a power hammer the rapid blows coupled with the force of said blows would actually reheat the steel to some extent. I'm not hitting it hard enough and fast enough to heat the amount of steel back up if it were a smaller piece of stock it is possible to heat it up with rapid hammer blows the Japanese did this to light their forges, this process is demonstrated in a Man at arms video showcasing the build of a Katana. Matt Stagmer does a really good job of explaining the process. I appreciate you watching.

I use a Brodbeck Ironworks 2x72. I appreciate you watching.

I used 1095 for this project. I appreciate you watching!

I used maple I bought from Home Depot, I believe it was maple furring strips, if you look through their stack, you can find some boards with really nice grain for not very much money at all. I dyed it with brown leather dye. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge absolutely

It is called a height Guage, I bought the one I have from grizzly industrial but Amazon has them as well, I would try to get a digital one instead of the analog one like I have. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge I just bought the digital one. Thank you so much! I just got my forge up, I’ve got an “Anvil” 75# chunk of tool steel on a stump sunk into the ground. It works… I want to make knives as a hobby. Plenty of used bent up steel laying around.

@@Mysticmountainforge after hammering in the bevels, how do you center the bevels and then center the blade with the gauge?

I appreciate you watching!

No problem, It is wood ash, I heat the blade up and place it in it overnight. This allows the steel to cool down extremely slowly, which helps with drilling the pin holes in the tang. I appreciate you watching.

I used a bar of 1095 1.5 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge Thanks!

It is hardwood ash, I put the blade in it to anneal it for drilling. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge thank you so much for your response. I really like your craft.

I put it in the wood ash to anneal, sometimes after forging the steel can work harden and this process allows the steel to cool down at a extremely slow rate which makes drilling the pin holes and grinding much easier. You can also do this by putting it in clay based cat litter, sand or you can just turn off the forge and let it set inside. I usually do my normalizing cycles prior to quench which can be seen at the 9:24 mark.

Thanks for watching, I normally charge 125 for a small hunter like this. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge do you do sheaths with them as well?

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

It was a container of hardwood ash, I put the steel in it to let it cool down slowly, it helps make it soft enough to drill the pin holes. I appreciate you watching!

Normally yes, right now I am booked solid with orders though. I'm trying to get some made for my website but I don't know when that will end up happening. Thanks for watching I appreciate it!

There are a few on the channel where I explain the process in depth, I did this one like this because I got tired of people complaining about me talking in the videos so much, can't make everyone happy. I appreciate you watching.

I go into detail about the forging process some in this video, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9akq8mHq8CRfIk.html I will talk more about the processes in my future videos, I greatly appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching.