I'm not an expert by any means but I have been watching a lot of painting videos the past few weeks since I am getting ready to re-do my kitchen. The INSL-X Stix primer is preferred by many professional painters for kitchen cabinets. The professional painters always recommend very lightly sanding the wood after the primer is dry (and remove the wood dust with a tack cloth). They also recommend lightly sanding after the first coat of paint. This should help get a more factory finish :) The sandpaper should have a grit of around 220.

Insl-X Stix primer is fabulous! I've used it to paint over oil-based paint on all the baseboards and doors in my 1938 bungalow, followed by Insl-X Cabinet Coat in semi-gloss. The results are BEAUTIFUL. I use a tiny bit of Benjamin Moore extender or Floetrol with the Cabinet Coat and there are practically no brush marks - and it is insanely durable. I can't believe I'm gushing about paint, but it's that good.

In my personal experience, the BIN 123 primer actually works better and holds up. I made our kitchen cabinets years ago and used BIN as most professionals swear by it and under the abuse of a family of five with youngsters, there is not one section od paint peeling, anywhere.

I was hoping you were going to try scratching it- that’s what I was waiting for. But it was helpful

In my experience, Whizz velour rollers give a much smoother finish than foam or regular rollers. And if you really want the smoothest surface, a light sanding between coats eliminates the texture and is the way to go.

The best way I have found to paint any type of furniture or a higher gloss surface is to number one wash it down with vinegar and water 50/50 or even alcohol, followed by a water rinse. If needed a degreaser as a second wash (and something that could cut through mold and mildew) would be a good idea based on the surface's condition and then neutralize again using water. Then lightly scuff up the surface with sandpaper and damp clean everything and let it dry for 24 hours. Then I apply 1 coat of Stix possibly 2, allowing it to dry at least 24-48 before painting your project since I believe it has a longer cure time (either tile or furniture, on furniture I am less likely to wait as long). The best paint for cabinets has been Advance waterborne alkyd paint by Benjamin Moore applied with a valor roller, this paint is also self-leveling to minimize brush strokes but will also take a really long time to try and cure. And if you really want a smooth finish lightly sand (with a super fine grit sandpaper) in between each coat 2-3 coats, however, do not sand your final coat! Or you can also use chalk paint but then would have to use a really good matte top coat and I would do at least 2 coats on furniture or 3-4 on tile, tile will need a top coat regardless but be careful around working fireplaces because your primers, paint and top coats will have to be fire rated. I've used a few natural top coats from some specialty stores but unfortunately they either failed over time or yellowed, polyurethane can also yellow as well just like shellac. So far the only top coat that I've liked has been one that I've used from Rustoleum that I found in their chalk paint line but I know they now make a kit for tiles as well so I'll use that one next when I paint my front entrance tiles. I also use wax for some furniture projects but never on Ikea furniture, for Ikea or any high gloss furniture, or even plastic I've always used the method mentioned up above and I have never had any real scuffing let alone chipping paint. I mean, if you throw something at it I'm sure it would damage the finish but for instance, I painted my bathroom cabinet doors with the method listed up above (the paint finish under them was a pretty glossy finish), and right after I had finished painting all my cabinet doors and let them properly cure for about a week I went ahead and dropped a damn hammer on one of the front doors (which totally sucked!) but while the wood itself did get slightly indented, the paint DID NOT chip, crack or scratch one bit! So that is now why I finish all cabinetry, doors, and high gloss furniture this way. However, keep in mind the key to using these products properly is to allow them to fully dry and cure between coats and afterward. Hope this helps some!

Hello, Megan! I tried reading carefully to see if you added using the foam roller to the description. I could have missed it, if you did in fact add that part. I am particularly interested in that part. As someone who have never painted anything before. I am about to tackle painting two ikea pieces and I only have one chance to get it right. I really like the way your nightstands came out. Oh and I can praise your work all day long on that beautiful fireplace❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ Any advice is welcomed. Thank you 😊

Thank you so much for this video!!! I’m looking for a better primer for kitchen cabinets. Getting worried about using the BIN.

New viewer here! One of my fav things about you is that you take safety seriously and wear a respirator when necessary! It’s a precaution that takes minor effort, but well worth it to avoid headaches, etc. from the fumes.

Great info! I wonder if you just go over the Insl-X primer with a 220 grit sandpaper after it's dry, you won't end up with as much texture.

I sand with a 220 grit in between coats with Stix and it's smooth. Then I spray top coat, sanding in between but I let 24 hours in between each coat. I also use BM advance cabinet paint. mine are very smooth and dry to a hard finish

Did you try to scratch the Stix primer on the ikea piece or the black paint over the Stix? Wondering how well it will actually work. Also, do you scuff sand the furniture before priming? I'm getting ready to paint an ikea bookcase next week and may try this primer! Oh and I'm no painting pro but I think if you sand a little after priming, that should make your finish smoother. Thanks for your great videos!

I used the Stix primer on my old pink laminate countertop. I then covered it with beyond paint and their sealer. I used a 1/4” nap roller because I wanted texture. I love how it turned out. I’m also going to use the primer on my shower tiles before I use the epoxy paint. Can’t hurt!

To me, apples to apples, with one very fussy and two weeks old, and one easy to use and 24 hours old? SOLD!

Hey Megan in my first use of the Bin Shellac primer i used a microfiber roll and it instantly gave me horrible orange peel surface. I immediately followed with a foam brush (i had no foam roller) and that eliminated most of the orange peel. I started a second cabinet with the foam brush and the primer almost dried on me before i was done and the whole mini cup amount i poured in the tray was already sticky within 4 min. I stopped everything to pace myself, very bad first experience. I went back to read the instructions on the Bin and they say : "Apply with a natural or synthetic (nylon, polyester or blend) bristle brush, roller, or airless sprayer." I am not sure if that includes microfiber, i hate how all paint maker are so vague and confusing about what brush won't work. Tomorrow i'll try with a foam roll but i am still unsure how to work with it if it dries in 4 min even in the tray !

you need to give a good long sand on a shiny surface there's no short cuts to that 80 grit-120 grit give it a good clean with white spirit

What about Zinsser Bulls Eye 123? Have you tried it? I wonder what you think of it.

Did you ever do a scratch comparison on laminate?

Did you use the Stix primer on the tile and no paint on top? Did you tint or you literally used as primer and painter

STIX is a good primer but it doesn't cover tannins as well as Bin

As we all know, not all primers are equal. While this stix might have slightly better durability, Will the stix primer give you the same protection from bleed thru that the zinsser primer gives?

Thank you. Would adding a good varnish help to seal and stop scratches? I'm going to use BIN 123 under chalk paint. I've heard that the 123 offers greater adhesion to shiny surfaces.

I was waiting for the scratch test 😭💔 Regardless vid was informative, thank you

Really helpful. I'm going to paint a teak veneer-topped desk with Melange ONE. Should I use Stix to prime for extra insurance? And top with a topcoat for extra insurance since it's a desk? We use it for computer work with a wireless keyboard and mouse on a pad so not high traffic. Love your channel and content. Love your style and your new home is beautiful!

Do you have the wait 24 hours after priming with stix? It says 4 hours?

So no sanding is required before and in between paintings?

If you were going to sand the water borne one to get rid of texture, what stage would you sand? After primer? After first coat of paint? I prefer water based always. Thank you, good information.

I really think ikea is missing an opportunity by not having an ikea furniture paint line. Paintint will void the return policy 😉

Since this is wood have you considered using cabinet coat, paint for cabinets instead?

Interesting but water based paints can take 4 weeks to fully cure

this is such a releif, i started priming with stix than I read that it needed to be a shellac primer