Thanks, brother!

Mrgunsngear Channel I've got that Arisaka kit as well and it's great for the money.

Mrgunsngear Channel Price came down to $35. Just ordered one. Thanks.

Thanks so much!

Will is a great guy, and I, too, like his approach.

You watched to the end!!! You have my thanks.

Glad you found the video helpful!

Perfect!

It saves me a lot of frustration.

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

I've got so many, I use them to prop my doors open and baton firewood. I'm a big time KZfaqr, remember? :)

TWANGnBANG man living the life! I'll give you $3.50 for that door stop, hell ill even pay for shipping too just wanting to help you get some clutter out of your dogs way haha.

Did you watch until the end of the video? There's a better way, and it doesn't require you to have three hands to do it.

Are you sure they’re not 9/64”? Regardless, Amazon has a ton of quality hex bits for way less than $35. That’s where I go to buy oddball bits, and I’ve always been happy.

@@TWANGnBANG You were right.... a website I considered legit stated 1/8" but after reaching out to you, ADM Mfg confirmed that said ring screws are 9/64". Anyways, got my scope mounted thanks to you and Arisaka Defense wedges. Take it easy homie

:)

I honestly don’t remember because I already had a bunch of bits and just threw them all together.

Not really because you have to keep pressure on it through torquing it, and it's up to you to keep it perpendicular to the rail. A stiff feeler gauge is still not a bad tool to use in a pinch, though.

TWANGnBANG oh ok.....I see. Ty for the quick reply.

Not sure. That might be a tight fit.

With that center rib?, I’m pretty sure that it won’t work, there is no flat surface to work from.

Yes, but it might be a few weeks.

okay awsome,.

That's a lot of extra work. I'd rather spend $35 and get it done anywhere that is convenient to me in a fraction of the time.

Yes. Soon.

Can't wait. Thanks

Vise Diesel I'm here.

I commend your mentioning of the breaking in of the threads by multiple tightening! This is a much overlooked reason for new installations coming loose! When final torquing clamps with multiple fasteners next to each other on the same clamp, the final step should be to go back and forth between them with a tightening only action until no further tightening occurs. Often times tightening the second fastener will loosen the first one that you tightened and so-on until the clamp is fully squared at final torque.

I was talking about mounts without built-in MOA. If you’re going to shoot out at longer distances, you will benefit from a mount with built-in MOA.

@@TWANGnBANG I see, thank you for the reply!

Eh, street price on the HDMR is about 50% higher than the PST. Both are good scope for their money, but that means that the HDMR is better. Bigger eye box, clearer glass, and a better reticle.

Thank you, I'm trying to find a good scope for the bergara b14 that you convinced me to buy.

The PST is more in line budget wise. It's what I mounted to the HMR.

I just picked up the 1-6x pst gen 2. I must say, I'm underwhelmed. I think I'm going to return it. I'm just not sure what I want to replace it with yet.

Let me know what you get. I'm looking for something around the 20 power range.

Because you can still take a QD mount off more easily, and you don't have to re-Loctite anything when re-mounting.

TWANGnBANG Yeah thats true..You probably would be switching glass alot more as a reviewer too...Thanks for the quick response

It’s my go to mount.

TWANGnBANG thanks.

TWANGnBANG p. s. does it holds zero? 😊

Yes, though you should always confirm.

Linked in the video description.

pwnedbyscope thats how you do head bolts on a motor for the exact reason he mentioned

Wilson Combat 6.5 CM Super Sniper

Thank you, greetings from Germany ;)

You are incorrect about the crosshairs not needing to be perpendicular to the bore as any adjustment of the elevation or simply doing a holdover will be off axis to the bore even if your gun is level. You need a level gun and a perpendicular reticle- one without the other will lead to windage errors. If you don't use a level on your gun, you are still better off ensuring your reticle is perpendicular to your bore as you will better be able to estimate proper level from the reticle's relationship to the features in nature that are generally plumb or level. This won't even be something you try to do. It will just be naturally what you do. If the reticle is not perpendicular to the bore, you will be less successful with your natural alignment. TL;DR- both a level rifle and a reticle perpendicular to the bore are needed for precise shots at varying ranges

TWANGnBANG What does "perpendicular to the bore" even mean? Many mounts, for example, are built with a 20-30 MOA ramp, for use beyond the typical adjustment range of most scopes. Such a scope wouldn't be "perpendicular" to the bore. I think you must mean "centered" with the bore - that a line through the vertical cross hair would extend through the center of the bore axis. This is what is typically meant in such topics. And indeed, that is only of very minor importance vs can't in the crosshair. If you will explain what you mean by "perpendicular" in this use I can explain further.

You're confusing the bore of the scope with the reticle. You can call it "centered" if you like- it is still critical for the vertical line of the reticle to align top dead center over the bore of the barrel (which would also make it perpendicular to the bore).

Let's look at some examples. Assume the vertical crosshair is always plumb, but that the rifle was canted when the scope was mounted with a plumb crosshair (which would result in the crosshair NOT being centered through the bore -- or not perpendicular, as you are referring to it. Furthermore, for this discussion, it's OK to ignore things like wind, spin drift, coriolis effects, etc. Example 1: The worst possible misalignment. If we mount the scope with the vertical turret to the side, and the windage turret at the top (with a mounting height of 1.5"). To then sight and shoot this setup with the vertical crosshair plumb would require that the rifle be canted completely on it's side, and the vertical crosshair would be 1.5" "away" from the center of the bore. If sighted in at 100 yards, lateral error at 200 yards would be 1.5", 300 would be 3", etc, and at 1000 yards lateral error would be 13.5" Example 2: Realistic rifle cant. It's generally agreed that one can easily detect a cant of 5 degrees in the vertical crosshair. How will a rifle shoot which has a plumb vertical crosshair mounted on a rifle that was canted 5 degrees (at 1.5" height of the crosshairs above the bore). Excel gives an offset from the center of the bore (SIN(5*PI()/180)*1.5) = 0.13", and at 1000 yards that would produce a lateral error of 9*0.13 = 1.18" which is a trivial amount at 1000 yards (about 0.1 MOA -- better than any gun can be expected to shoot realistically) Example 3: Realistic vertical crosshair cant. Assume our rifle is level, but the crosshair itself is canted 5 degrees. Assume the rifle is sighted in at 100 yards. To make a shot with a 308 with 175 gr bullets requires a holdover (or turret adjustment) of nearly THIRTY FEET at 1000 yards. The lateral error there is =(SIN(5*PI()/180)*30) = 2.6 FEET! which is about 30 times the error due to rifle cant. From the above you can see that crosshair "centering" (being perpendicular, as you put it) -- in a typical fashion (

Let's try this another way- go ahead and mount a scope with 5 degrees of cant, level the gun in a shooting rest, center the crosshairs at a target 1000yds away, and then dial in your hold. You'll be able to see the windage deviation from the cant happen right before your eyes, and it's not going to be 1.8". Not even close. :)

Do what you want. What I show is what top competitors and guys who get shot at do for their precision rifles.

top. men.

You bet!

That would only show return to zero on this specific mount, but the techniques work to get the best out of every mount. Plus, I'd have to do the exact same thing without doing all of the tricks I mention so you can see the difference. Just take my word for it- the steps are easy to do and learned from guys who get shot at by their targets. ;)

I have one coming my way, in fact. However, not every application needs a Spuhr, though every scope needs to be leveled.

Agreed. I have a pair of Spuhrs. They are extremely high quality. I have one mounted on my SPR and I plan on bringing it out to the benefit this weekend. You're more than welcome to play around with it.

Linked in the video description.

"for less than 40" :p I meant that it looked so simple that I was sure I could find it for half that, but I can't!

Somebody might come out with a cheaper version of this, but I'm not sure I'd trust it. The material doesn't cost that much, but it must be very precisely machined and finished or it won't stay square. That's where the cost to manufacture is spent.