Not a bad idea!

This tank was previously heavily modified via cutting welding, etc. It was filled with water when cutting. Be safe, for sure.

Thank you😃

Thanks for the feedback Dan. I will be doing more of these when I have a task finished from start to full completion. If you have a topic idea let me know. I have days of video!

Thanks man and you're welcome!

I agree, except you have to scratch it anyway according to the primer manufacturers.

Very true, I did find one method that isn't messy....Writing a check! That's no fun either! Maybe it is for some?

Sure👍. Thanks for watching

Enjoy your retirement! Car restoration bus like a full time job!

Cool. Thx. For watching

Thanks👍

Best of luck on that fiat! You have to be able to read what's working and adapt. If you have deep rust pits, then spot media blast, if the chemical stripper is too slow than maybe buy another strip it disc. Hire a laborer if you have to. You'll get through it!

So glad you are starting in on your car! Hopefully your car doesn't give you too much grief, but expect some!

So glad that you are tackling a car project. I hope you enjoy it!

@@GarageTimeAutoResto very hard work actually but I love it. It’s a ‘91 Audi S2 Coupé btw

Cool car!

I agree it will take time, ha ha. You can do it though. Be safe👍

Cool, that's a cool machine👍

Thanks CT!

Thanks Use an inspection mirror or boroscope to see what's in there. If there's just surface rust than I would probably fish a coat hanger and swab epoxy in there or inject it with a syringe. Then after the entire car is painted I would spray cavity wax in there. There are lots of kits with snakes and sprayers that will reach everywhere. Then inspect every year and reapply if needed Personally, I don't like rust converters or POR15 Once the rust converter is there paint won't last long on top of it. It's an Acid! If the paint does peel off then you have a mess in there. Try a rusty piece of metal with rust converter on it and put it outside. Try a rusty piece of metal with chainsaw oil/wax and see which one looks better after a month. Do the same with epoxy primer.

Glad you liked it

Perfect, that's what I like to hear.

@@GarageTimeAutoResto Hi Tom, I really like your effort and time you put into this, why are there not more subscribers??? I myself work on a 914/4 at this moment...

Ha ha, I don't know. This video is designed to get subscribers! It solves a common problem and refers back to more of my videos. Outside of that, I need hot chicks I think. I love 914's by the way😀

Very cool, I love VW's too. Wish I had more space!

I used the same method for both the trunk and door insides. Degrease, then DA sand with 180 or 220. Tough to reach areas were sanded by hand with red scotchbrite. Then epoxy primer. Sand or scuff the epoxy to 400 then paint. If you sand through to bare metal with the 180 in some spots it's ok. The epoxy primer is a great sealer so nothing will blead through to the final color. If you use SPI epoxy you will see what the shiny surface looks like because the epoxy is pretty glossy.

Ok, thanks for the recommendation! I've ordered other tools from aircraft spruce before

Way too expensive!

Painting over previous repairs is always dicey. Sometimes bad prior workmanship can ruin a paint job. You could strip the previously repaired spots down to bare metal and build it back up with the best materials, etc. if you find rust or failed coatings then continue to strip. Bondoing an entire panel is a bit suspect already. It's ok to paint over existing paint as long as it isnt cracked or bubbling. Be sure to use lots of good quality sealer/epoxy primer. Hope that helps. Best of luck on your paint work

@@GarageTimeAutoResto Great points. Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. As far as mechanical stripping, I have had bad experience with the contour sct. At the low speed it does not remove paint, at least not until your arm falls off, but at the higher speeds in addition to removing paint it severely warps the panel. Are the 8 inch strip disks on a grinder any better? Thank you again!

I have not, but I suspect the paint stripper method is best along with full PPE gear. This method puts less debris in the air and the chemical can be bagged up and disposed of correctly. I'm just guessing so please check with the authorities on the proper procedure.

Cool. How's the primer holding up?

@@GarageTimeAutoResto At the time I used some primer out of a can to keep it from rusting the owner of the shop at the time recommended something called One step anyway it's been in a garage and in good shape no rust. I'm recently retired and have put a shop 11.8 CFM compressor in my 2 car garage once I finish the work I'm doing on the house the Porsche will get my attention. By the way my Porsche has the exact same wheels as yours.

Enjoy your retirement and that wonderful car. That should keep you plenty busy!

I would if it weren't so expensive. Maybe in a decade the price will come down.

@@GarageTimeAutoResto

Hi, Yes lots of 2K primer! Epoxy, filler, 2K, sealer, basecoat, clear is the order I used. Here's the 2K video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gZp4a5V8zsjGqp8.html

Coopers strip club from Australia works. Hard to find the good stuff in the USA anymore.

@GarageTimeAutoResto Yeah I kinda learned that it's gotta come from over seas but at the same time if they're savy enough clearing customs since its technically not allowed can be an issue. I've gotten stuff from China already that worked too good. My conscience messed with me a lot. For some reason I can get tons of shit from China. Fast too.

I would tape off all the trim and windows and hit it with paint stripper below the windows and strip it disc only on the roof.

@@GarageTimeAutoResto ok thank you. I'll do that. Can you brush on the paint stripper? What stripper is best?

Yes, brush it on. Chemicals keep changing due to regulations. The best one comes from australia. Google cooper's strip club.

Cool idea!

Let me know if you find it. I'm told to check with a local airport shop.

That wasn't my car, just an example. I believe it's hard to find a place to dip a whole car, there are a few in California though

Paint work is very time consuming. My car was 3-4 months. Materials were only around $800

I found these with a quick Google search www.combatabrasives.com/products/clean-finish-sanding-disc?variant=43139716546723&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwu4WoBhBkEiwAojNdXmitAqLo7KGl4j5FG5abLqeDw8_rMgJv24sW2krZSOT8KfS0Lk1g3RoCqdUQAvD_BwE

Electro coat is an inexpensive coatings by car factories to protects against corrosion. The parts are usually dipped in a solution and the paint is attracted electrically to the body part. It's not that practical for a one time car resto. Epoxy primer is a better anyway in my opinion. Dipping a car is problematic because we can't rotate the cars like a factory would to allow all the air to escape. Some shops will do it, but it's a huge commitment to prep a body for that kind of treatment. Personally, I wouldn't do it. Interested why it's attractive to you?

@@GarageTimeAutoResto thanks for the answer, a friend of mine is a car restorer , some old cars are very notorious for rust (ex 1970s Fiats 600 and 126) , and I’ve seen many paint jobs that re-rust after a while most probably of exposed metal which wasn’t properly treated, I have always believed that redipping cars in this solution would solve the problem , but as you said epoxy primer is better because it’s much easier

Yes! And buy a boroscope camera to inspect and maintain. It's very possible to prevent rust, but they all take work!

Maybe someone with a Z will respond, but I think the method would be the same. Even if it's galvanized it's still should be striped down. Just try not to take all the galvanizing off. My opinion is the epoxy primer today is better than galvanization anyway. But if course both is best.

I use the one linked below which has the carbon chemical filter plus pre-filters amzn.to/3q59f23

@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you very much.

Great advice here! Trapped air or chemicals is the downfall of dipping. Lots of planning required as stated above!

SPI wax and grease remover

I used aircraft stripper, but it was the good stuff. Hard to find now with mec.

Tape them off with plastic and strong tape

Hi Dan,. The only danger in rolling on the primer is that you may get bubbles. Not such a big deal on the bottom of the car but you don't want that on the exterior. My advise is to buy the harbor freight gun and try it. Buy their regulator and filter too. $30 and you could throw it all away. That assumes you have an air compressor.

@Dan Altvater >Dan, This is a disheartening issue for anyone trying to do everything right on a vintage vehicle. Garage Time is correct about “Sealing” with epoxy. Once clean to bare metal, even epoxy needs some to stick to and if you see the video again, you will see SPI Epoxy primer / sealer. I would prefer that primer is not printed on those products. But many, like SPI has some unique qualities. Like any epoxy, it sticks, but this needs a tooth and a clean 80 grit is it. Reduced at 50% with SPI “Urethane Reducer” it can work as a primer. Like the info in this video, you need to protect from flash rust. After rains, then 80’s temps, the concrete in my garage was wet. The higher the moisture in the air, the higher the temp, the faster flash rust on bare metal starts a film of rust. Having you ducks in a row help, but clean with the manufactures cleaner works, sand with DA and air clean, solvent W/G cleaner, hang your tack rag up to dry out in the washer/dryer room before you start so hours later, it is not as sticky & with air, tack off metal, tape, paper & plastic. Wet the floors if able. But have you gun, clean dry air in a dedicated hose and adjust as needed. But get the epoxy on it. Two coats is recommended if I remember. SPI Epoxy has 7 days or work time, meaning you can apply filler on shallow dents or spray high build two part. What this does is create a catalyzed product to cure with a catalyzed epoxy base. 7 days later, both had grown together into one large molecule shaped liked like your vehicle. Just note, research, call customer support and ask. If they are honest about you success, they will tell you the information to make it the best body work. This is where paint jobs come from. Primers are to allow room for sanding panels straight. High Build helps with imperfections and sand scratches and get straight. Once everything is inspected with strong light, the eye will find defects, highs, lows, junks or called “NIBs”. Who knows! But clean W/G, tack & air, spray base & clear or single stage that is just color and shine added to resins & binders. I am do my very last vehicle...for me! So bet your boots I am researching product. This why we are here on this video. For you, me & anyone in the future if it’s their first vehicle or their 800th. We want to learn. Primer like the roll on stuff, works. But it could allow some moisture to find a tiny spot and get to metal. Seam sealer is as important as the paint. Every place 2 pieces of metal come together need sealed, except on the bottom or doors, rocker panels, rear quarter panels and behind front wheels under the fender. They need open and the inside sealed. 3M, Eastwood or other will help it last another 40 - 50 years. God bless and stay safe! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired

This was kleanstrip aircraft stripper. Now they sell the non MEH stuff which isn't as good.

No good is probably more accurate 😉

I thought I said it in the video, but it was one day plus a little more to prep for primer. I wanted to get primer on it right away

@@GarageTimeAutoResto Sorry must have missed that part

Do you mean the galvanized coating? Today's primers are miles ahead of the 50 year old primer from Porsche.

@@GarageTimeAutoResto I’m honestly not too sure. Is galvanized coating the first process a cars steel goes threw in the factory? I’ve only painted a 1971 super beetle. It was a learning process. When I was sanding I thought the original primer was doing such a good job of protecting the steel that I figured just sand down to that. Put a quick coat of fresh primer on to freshen it up and then apply paint. I had no idea what I was doing but it seems to be ok. Now I’m about to do my 1969 Chevy G10 van but I wanna do this one right and go right down to metal. It’s gonna be a lot of work. The one thing that stands out to me now is- so I’d have to get the van stripped , properly cleaned up , and primed all in one go or one day ? Or you’ll get that quick flash rust? That seems like the hardest part of the whole job. Am I wrong ? You musta been beat after all that in one go.

Yep, it's a lot of work. If it's a van, you will probably have to do it in sections unless you have a helper. A 911 is a small car!

Ah yea, bare naked body

Wik's Garage 🤦‍♂️

How many views would I get if I had strippers striping paint with strip it disc? I'm thinking a lot.

I hope it worked out for him. Nice car!

Totally agree!

Me too. A blast cabinet is really nice for small parts though.

Including primer and filler, but yeah crazy!

Epoxy primer is a more modern approach and far superior in my opinion.

Did you watch the whole video?

Thank you for this update. I'd love to try it.

@@GarageTimeAutoResto It works, but if you have a small pump sprayer sold at paint stores or home improvement stores, get a funnel. I find it easy to pump, the pull trigger as needed but not that much is used. Refill size may do 10 vehicles or 14.2 Porsches. lol, Just a thought. Stay safe! DK, Omaha

Aircraft stripper. I think the brand is klean strip. You want the methylene chloride stuff if you can find it

@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you subscribed

Thanks!

@@GarageTimeAutoResto I found non methylene chloride. do you think that would still work?

Test with a small can first. In my experience it takes a long time to bubble and will need 3-4 coats. Once the paint is softened a little bit the strip it disc does most of the work. Like I said in the video paint strippers today just aren't as good.