It is definitely relatively soft, and dents with miss hits. I try to avoid striking the anvil face directly if I can, so I don't know how it will really hold up over time, but I would expect it to be far better than the HF anvil. Make sure your hammer faces are properly dressed because larger radii on your hammer are less likely to dent the anvil with a missed strike... Almost every production hammer I have handled had a sharp chamfer around the face and would leave crisp gouges in an anvil or workpiece if left in it's factory condition, so dressing would make a big difference for the anvil as well as the consistency of the surface finish on the blades you are forging.

They made good anvils back in the day... and they made garbage too. Seems like mostly only the good ones are still around. This is true about almost everything. South Bend used to make good lathes back in the day... but Atlas made complete garbage lathes at the same time. There will always be someone making good quality, and someone else making crap. That said, I have the larger and upgraded version of this anvil (132 lb / black) and it is very nice, nearly as nice as the ones I use in my night classes, and certainly good enough for me... and a whole lot of other people.

I will not wear gloves of any kind with a wire wheel or a buffing wheel. Anything that likes to grab stuff will grab gloves.

Roy at Christ Centered Ironworks did a series on cheap anvils a while back, and this was one of the anvils he included. I got mine after watching his video.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jrWCfKer1tfHZps.html

@@DragonHide94 not a fan so I missed that video 🤷🏻‍♂️,see that’s what’s nice about multiple channels that cover the same type of content Thank you

Honestly, I'm not sure... It also doesn't particularly matter. Vevor is one of the companies supplying them, but they are all over Amazon and eBay.

It reduces the depth of cut for used cutting wheels if the attachment of the guard is bulky. That's the most noticeable hinderance for me.

@@DragonHide94 yes, the guard can definitely limit cutting wheel life just by being in the way

I've wondered if it's from the main sprue which is then cut off and ground more or less flush. Though I kinda assumed it the mold would have a sprue where the two halves met. Which would place it on the visible seam running the length of the anvil, or maybe on the face which has to be ground anyway... Whichever it is, at least it's not body filler to repair voids like on the Harbor Freight anvil.

@@DragonHide94 still a damn good anvil for what it’s worth glad I waited for so long rather than get the pos hb aso

I agree.

The only issue I’ve ran into is the round horn is soft and the pritchel hope is low

So far I haven't used to pritchel so it hasn't bothered me, but I am curious how the horn will hold up over time seeing as mine has dented slightly with use as well.

Definitely softer than my railroad rail, so misses leave dents, but it hasn't chipped or cracked. The horn is also potentially much softer than the face, but it seems most anvil have softer horns. Overall, it seems to be doing just fine.

@@DragonHide94 thanks for the reply and input! I dont expect it to be the best but I've been looking into it for a starter setup due to its features. Thanks again!

When this happens, contact the shipper and make sure of the address it was delivered to. You may have a neighbor that got your anvil or even a similar street name but same house number got your anvil. They should have gis coordinates where they left it and it should match your address. Where I work at, we get our neighbors packages occasionally. It does happen.

Hey. Look at me. I'm the expert now.

Well when the bar was set so low hf anvil anything looks better

For what?

Wire wheels are not abrasive based tools. I'm not trying to abrade the surface I'm trying to strip the paint.

I used a cup wire wheel felt alil safer but it's the best anvil I've used so far