It's amazing to think how LED lighting has evolved in the past 15 years, from large lumps of layered PCBs filled with 5mm or 3mm white LEDs, to flat panels of LEDs like these pumping out 70 Watts of light, it's impressive... :D

I bought several of the smaller size Clive played with in a previous video. I am using a 555 timer based PWM to dim it, and a 6.8 ohm current limiting resistor. Been running it for hours and it is still running cool. Thank you Clive for finding and playing with these things.

Just want to point out that your video descriptions are top notch. Normally the only suggestion of how the viewers could get something is an Amazon affiliate link, where we find an inflated price. Here we get the right ebay search, with the right filters already on, so that we can get the best possible deal. Thanks for looking out for us Clive.

Take it outside at night and fire it up. Let's see what it looks like.

I like the "dumb", no inbuilt regulation stuff. That way you can put exactly what you want, and run it with no loses with a "barely enough" power supply.

I really want to buy these, but I don't need any more of them. Time to start a new project, I guess.

0:30 almost all these ebay sellers are drop shippers. they hold no stock, they never even see any of the stuff they sell. they just list stuff on ebay and pass orders and payment, minus their cut, onto big warehousing and mailing services. thats why you see the same items with the same photos and identical descriptions listed by dozens of different sellers. you could pick any of those identical listings and no matter who you order from, it will come from the same place.

I just love you fascination with lighting effects. A very neat panel indeed...Thanks for the Demo.

These work VERY well used on a three-cell Lithium battery pack. The full battery voltage is at the full drive voltage of the light. Then, as the battery runs down, the light will gradually dim, giving you a handy indication that your battery's running low. The LED cutoff is just above the safe minimum voltage of a 3-cell pack, so even if you set it and forget it, it shouldn't over-discharge. Only complication is that you may need some way to cool the panel at full power/full charge, until the battery runs down a little. Fortunately though, you have 12v right there if you wanted to connect a fan and heat sink system ....

Wohaou ! This one is my favorite COB for now on ! I bought two before the end of your awesome presentation !

Warning: This video contains graphic scenes of LED array mutilation.

LEDs on the cob..., run!

Nice. I put two RGBW panels on my sound bar for graphic equalizer, and the specs says needed 76 watt PSU for each panel of 8 x 32 LED's for 256 LEDs per panel. Well 76 watts blinds you. In reality, even hidden behind speaker cloth, in daylight, the panel is perfectly visible at 2 watts per panel. The sound bar is on my channel if you want to see it.

When you went to 5 amps, I had to instinctively squint. Which is utterly ridiculous; I'm still looking only at my monitor's dialed-down backlight...

Thanks Clive another great video. Makes me want to tinker and get the son involved in soldering which is a very useful skill for mending broken stuff, I've fixed lots of stuff over the years sometimes just by resoldering a wire or 2 where most would just chuck it out and buy another. Feel I need to buy some project boards so I can get him away from his Xbox for a while.

The colour temperature of these are around 6000K+ so they make good SAD lights.

Sit back, and enjoy..unfortunately kids, the only thing burnt today is Clives image sensor in his camera.

Is it weird i find these videos oddly relaxing? Clive's soft voice and smooth lighting in the videos really make me relaxed.

"excuse me rambling about, i'm just experimenting" umm... that's one reason why I watch you :D

Saturday mornings aren't complete without a Big Clive video

Your favourite 100w LEDs are being sold in COB form now, and they're perfectly even I got some for my garage, they haven't had any issues with dying rows or uneven leds after running them at 90w+ a day

Looking forward to the 8.5" x 11" sized LED panel. :-) Light up the Night !

Seems like a decent low profile light panel to build up from. Too bad the pads seem to be quite small.

12:35 - The current went up 10x when that section was shorted out. And that is with the reduced voltage... if it was being run with a higher voltage PS (not current regulated) the current would be very high and limited "by the wiring". Something to keep in mind when wiring it up.

Only Big Clive Exes can dislike his videos.

While i enjoy watching you taking things to bits, very often i buy those items just to check them out for myself. Now i have a large drawer full of assorted little toys.

Thanks dude for making this video with the current testing and such. Been looking into these large COB panels for a project.

Nice! Got some of the smaller types you showed a video or 4 back. They work great and only 1 out of 6 had bad LED's on board but the light produced even at 12v is so overwhelming it's not even noticed. Good stuff and thanks!

For automotive applications this lamp would benefit from having a basic 2 transistor constant current regulator so the light output doesn't vary depending on whether or not the engine is running.

Another cool-to-have LED on the shelf right there.

Imagine going back in time late 1970's and you forget this board in you pocket.

12 rows by 20 is 240 chips. Must have meant 28 across That's a huge COB. Great video!

In awe at the size of this lad.

This looks like a really neat idea. Some vendors are now selling an impossibly small looking LED dimmer for this COB array that they say can handle up to 12A and deliver 244 watts(!) on 5-24V DC -- all for $2.75 delivered. Ooooookaaaaaay, lets see if it works. If it does the lamp should work well mounted on a homemade aluminum slide suspended underneath the top equipment shelf of my new electronics bench. Thanks, Clive!

The first thing that went through my mind was bulkhead light. I'm pretty certain there are some cases roughly the right size for that. They would fit a small PSU too so you could feed them with say 36-48V reducing your feed current.

I'm going to install some of these LED light panels in my 1986-vintage motorhome to replace the 12V bulb-type fixtures that are in there now. I will be living in the motorhome full-time (in a static position) starting later today (hopefully!). A few years ago, I installed one in a shipping container house that runs from a PV array and a 200AH 12V AGM battery. I have been VERY impressed by it. It's cheap, and has very "soft" output because of the large area. The motorhome has ONLY 12VDC lighting, so unless I plug in a bunch of extension cords and put up 120VAC lighting, 12VDC is all I can do. Given that I'll eventually be off-grid with the motorhome, 12VDC is actually an advantage for me, as I can run all my lights directly from the PV-charged battery in the RV, without needing to have an inverter on when only lighting is needed. These panels can be easily dimmed, too, so they use just a tiny amount of power to put out plenty of light for most situations, but crank up the knob and they get HELLA bright!

I ordered eight of these at the beginning of the month, and they arrived today (here in Texastan). Two of the panels (the ones at the top of the stack) were all 100% uniform tested at 9.5V drawing 2 mA. Two had severe non-uniformity, and interestingly both tested drawing 3 mA. Four had mild to moderate non-uniformity, and all but one tested at 3 mA (the other was at 2 mA). one of the severely non-uniform ones has deep scrapes/scratches in the rear aluminum, the other severely non-uniform one had no issues with the backside. The ones I bought were wrapped in very thin foam sheets, and shoved in a plastic bag and mailed in the bag from China. I'm not sure if this is how they are all being shipped (I would hope not), but it is something that everyone might want to inquire about before purchasing. There was not even bubble wrap. My numbers should be accurate, my Fluke 117 is NIST tracable. I'm going to ask for money 3/4ths of my money back from the seller, or replacements that are 100% uniform. I'll update this with the results of that. Oh, in an interesting coincidence, mine came from "valuedresshop" on ebay.

Hey Clive. Have you seen the range of tools from Aldi? They have several things like £20 soldering stations and £15 rotary tools among other smaller things such as £3 helping hands and mini vices. Might be an interesting range of products for review and testing.

New projects in future for sure ! Thanks for the great info !

That is pretty neat. It looks like it could be a lot of fun!

How the hell this channel wasn't in my life before?!?

Wow, I must get this... great big COB element ! Many thanks for the info.

Humble suggestion to dear Clive: would you consider compiling a “Q&A with Clive” video? I ALWAYS want to ask follow-up questions of things I don’t fully understand or want to quiz you on, around the subjects / equipment you cover in your vids. I reckon you assume people know a lot more than they do when they watch your vids (maybe I should just speak for myself!) This could take the following form. 1) announce on a few vids over the course of 4 weeks that you are planning a Q&A, and pls ask questions in comments. 2) select some questions (ranging from “the answer is bloody obvious” to “oooh that’s a good question”) and make an ongoing list. 3) Make a vid and answer such questions. This would be amazing for people like me!

YES! I have found my new front light for my ebike :D

As a public service you should expose more of the wiring on the board and discover if it's safe to drill holes anywhere. Mounting these to a proper heatsink with good/firm pressure will be hard since they have no holes in middle. If it is safe to drill holes in a few locations inbetween the LEDs it would help.

I really appreciate you sacrificing the panel in the pursuit of knowledge. Just a shame the manufacturers don't share that info on a schematics document. After all they can hardly keep it a secret given the price !! If this was needed for a critical use, such as an emergency illuminated information display it is handy to know how much illumination you lose if one led were to die. Maybe they just don't want to spend the money getting the design info translated into English? or they simply don't care what happens to them once they leave the sweatshop... erm I mean factory !

I think this would be the perfect thing for people that are converting vans into campers. A nice warm white light that would not use that much power and keep the heat down on rather hot evenings.

This style of troubleshooting is just what surgeons do!

I think my welding table is about to get some new seriously bright lighting!

I got 2 of those driverless led's at 100 watts each. Fantastic light, puts out a ton of heat though with a giant heatsink.

One of my biggest pet peeves of Ebay and AliExpress sellers is that they don't often provide a detailed diagram showing the product measurements. That's a key thing to know!

Good effort for the destruction test. Very informative top guy.

Sent you coffee, Great video presentation. Should be in all schools. Thanks.

I got one 7" x 8.25" rated for 300 watts! WOW the light output! Needs a huge heatsink to run cool.

That thing is huge! I probably need one to light my work bench now :)

I use smaller 10w versions of these for Yard illumination using an AC-DC 60w 5amp power brick, they do very well for that. I also have 1 on my Tahoe as an extra Reverse/Illumination light connected to a cig lighter adapter.

Thumbs up for the wilful destruction... errr... testing! ;-)

Thanks from Texas Clive

Excellent video Clive! I must away and order one of these!

So glad you didn't 'TIG weld these', last time you did it was like watching someone beat up R2D2.

I wish PAR meters weren't so expensive. I would like to get a closer look at the spectrum coverage of that COB. It seems like a fun COB to wire up a ton of for an indoor grow light. Nice to see another post from ya, Clive.

Nice 👍 12 V solar array, to battery, to lighting, or a regulated 12 V supply would be BOSSSS

That panel is indeed massive. Clive do you have any way of measuring the Color Rendering Index (CRI) of this thing?

I think I'm going to buy one right now.

Love the cob lights. Got them in my car

That is a big ass panel.

Please, please, please do a video showing how to convert a par 64 fixture to led. We are typical poor, skint and broke musicians. We can all handle soldering irons and we can get the parts off eBay, but, we don’t know how to wire it together! Please help us Clive. You’re the only one who can! Thank you so much for your fantastic videos!

I might have to get one of these to look at. I recently picked up a 1000x usb microscope. It's good enough to see the bond wires on the COBs.

I bet you can make some amazing grow lights, Clive.

hot clothing iron is vice of knowledge -great tip!

There is a even higher power one on Ebay that I bought and it is rated at 200w and it is in the form of a large circle measuring about 160mm

Considering that one single dead LED won't matter, drilling a hole for a small camera lens should be doable!

This LED look insane :) as I saw it, I immediately thought what kind a project I can make with it! ;D

nice video and Spectacular testing .. i love it

Woohoo. Big LED light!

Seems like it could be part of a pretty nice portable "Trouble Light". Somehow regulate some 18650s with an on off switch?

He He he I heard your birds chirping faintly in the background. 12:08 cools

This is the first thing you’ve shown off that I’m really tempted to buy! It’s a very nice looking panel, and I got a lot of cool ideas for this. Could you do some more testing? Would it handle 300W for at least 200 milliseconds? Maybe 100W for 400 milliseconds? With heat sink of course, I never go without a heatsink.

THis just showed up and I can't believe it's been 5 years already, I bought some of these when you made this video,

I have to make a choice between variable voltage supplies. Should I go for a 3v-12v 10 amp regulated power supply or a 9v-24v 5 amp power supply?

I also just connected one of these COB panels to a bench power supply. Using a 5v-24v dimmer switch, I was able to click on 100% brightness without the light blinking , though I don't think this was the true 100% brightness, as my bench supply was putting out a max of only16.4v at 3.16 amps (maybe the max for my bench supply), which is only 51.8 watts. This panel should be rated somewhere between 70 watts to 100 watts. My question is what is the ideal DC power supply to get maximum wattage out of this panel? Should I stick with 12v and get something that can put out at least 7 amps, or should I go to 24 volts? I will always be running the light with an LED dimmer switch.

So, who else FFded to the end hoping to see a white screen and the author screaming in panic "Help, I am on fire and I cannot see anything!"?

@ 11:45 .. this really is getting a LED horror movie.. pocking and munching around.. :-/

Hello big Clive. Love your videos and in this one you mentioned that you would not run 70 Watts through this panel. I've just ordered one to play around with I was wondering what controller you might suggest 2 power one or more of these? What you need one controller per panel or could you get one controller to Power four or five of these. I am looking to keep temperatures down and figured this unit could help in that regard. Any help gratefully received. Regards

I think your power supply might be interfering with your audio pickup. I can hear a faint background noise in the video that goes away when the supply is shorted out at 2:03 and 2:26, when the supply presumably drops its voltage to limit current.

Woooow, I need that!!!

Looks like it would make a good under-hood light. Need a protective lens and a resistor though. Using 16 ga. wire with a fuse from the battery would be best.. using a switch like a door switch (button switch that's closed with button out).

Neat ... Looks like a lot of bang for yer buck (magic smoke included) . Putting one of those in a cheapo rip-off led work light (or even an old quartz halogen type) should make a dandy trouble light .

Mine is dying I think, it is only pulling 600mA now on a 12 volt Lead Acid, I think one or more LEDs are burning out, despite treating it with kid gloves and mounting it on a large Copper Heat sink.

Thumbs up for your videos! I really enjoy watching them. I bought six smaller COB LED panels with each 50 watts to give my pepper plants a little boots of light for winter time. But they heat up quite fast and i got about 70°C after 7 minutes with one of them mounted to a passive cpu cooling unit. Could you make a video how to build a passive cooling unit for serveral of those in a row? I was thinking about some kind of aluminium plate.

Got any pictures of these things lighting up a back yard or something? Due to how thin it is, i could thing of quite a few uses for such a light.

Really good LEDs at this point will actually dissipate more power in the form of radiant flux than they do in the form of heat, and this can kind of fool our senses. Something that is hot is going to have heat coming off of it if you put your hand near due mostly to convection. With LEDs like these however, most of the heat you feel is actually from the photons impinging on your hand, not because the actual source of the light is hot. It still messes with me, because it feels just like putting my hand near something quite hot, but if I cut power, the heat vanishes, and the COB will be much cooler to the touch than something that could ever have produced the heat I felt on my hand via convection. The newest blue-to-violet LEDs as of 2018 (which are used to make white LEDs of course) have an efficiency of about 72%. Put in 1W of electrical power, and get out 720mW of light, along with 280mW of heat. You can buy them on mouser, digikey, etc, this isn't something in a lab. They're so good they seem almost unphysical.

Where do you suppose you might be able to get a heat sink for something this size? If I could figure out a lens and a way to keep it from overheating, this really could be a great little fog light.

Indoor Growing of plants.

This would be good for a solar powered camper or something.

So going off your measurements you could have a single LED mounted in the middle of a 300x200mm back plane and call it a 300x200mm COB?

Thats a great pannel. How small could a regulator be built for this? Ive put together a rectifier for my wr450 lighting to be able to use LEDs. The single large pannel would make a very interesting replacement for the entire original headlight.

Actually this array consists of twelve rows that each contain twenty-eight individual chips which makes for a total amount of 336 of em. Instead of twelve times twenty, which by the way would add up to 240 and definitely not 346 even though that number which in itself is quite close to the actual number counted correctly. IF this thing would consume 70 Watts indeed, that would mean a consumption of 70 / 336 = 0.208 Watts per chip , and when we would devide that by 3 as if we supposing the applied voltage per individual LED would ideally be 3 Volts, that gives us a power consumption of 0.06ö4 (say 0.07 Amps or 70 MilliAmps per chip. And as each chip contains three individual, actual LEDs apiece, that gives us an outcome of 0.0231 A or 23 milliAmps per LED. There possibly is a few percents of that that are absorbed by wiring, a few micro components for voltage /surge protection and tp smoothen things out on the circuit and / or on the individual chips as well; taking that on account we still come up with a final actual power consumption that is close to a nice, round 20 milliAmps each LED gets. By the way, I do have a question about this: when the temperature inside the LEDs goes up, does the conductance and with that its own consumption as well as what it can pass through drop as a result? I am aware changes relating to temperate development in the LED /~ chip would need to be measured in nanoseconds. The way LEDs work is they get so hot the variety of individual metallic molecules (for composing the right part of the light spectrum) that are mounted on the tiny little pieces of silicon carrier in them, gets so hot that they start emitting light as a result, uv light which is passed through a layer of phosphorus to give out the right light colour. The LED works basically must like an incandescent light bulb did, but is much more efficient cause it only powers light producing molecules that lay directly on the surface all of which can emit light that can travel into (reach) the outside world ndeed, minimalising the losses in by molecules that are powered and produce loads of heat but are not in a position to bring forth light. Also the conduction is way more stable af sturdy, al the stuff being mounted on a plate that is surrounded by glass and encased / enclosed and it doesn't contain a wobbly filament that dangkes inside and can break by the slightest tremble. Apart from that some of the LEDs adjust to an output of the right (desired) visible light frequency by running the primarily created waved form of the photos it produces (uv) through a layer of phosphorus just like in the fluorescent light sources of the previous generation (tl) and the cathode ray tube in colour tvs (containing the separate photon sources scanning the inside of the tube creating the subpixels and three different types of phosphorus, one for each colour of 'dots' on the screen.. One for red, one for green, and one for the blue ones. It is what the modern ultra-flat LED tv for in common with the old one. Another thing, I do not know what the difference between power consumption and dissipation is, can somebody enlighten me.? Thanx !

Have you tested indoor led grow lights?

Very very neat! I wonder if I could find some "warm white" ones with known specs... (emission spectrum & CCT). I think you shouldn't underestimate the accumulated heat though, especially if not directly heat-sinked (or actively air-cooled). I don't think over 1A is realistic for 24/7 usage, if you care about its longevity. Then again, this thing is quite cheap for what it is.