I will definitely be posting more videos of tongs and other tools - how I go about making them. Blacksmithing can be kept simple or can be made complex, depending on the craftsman and what he or she likes. There's a place for all different personality types in this craft. Thanks for watching. Glen

It really makes me happy that guys like yourself can take something away from what you see me doing. And in the same way, I've also learned from watching others. Happy hammering. Glen

Chuck, it sounds like you're well on your way. Take it one step at a time and you'll progress to where you want to be in less time than you imagine. Glad you like my videos and I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. Thanks. Glen

Ig you ere my student, i'd give you a minimum of a " B+" by vertue of your minimalistic approach of operating without a full fledged Machine Shop..keep up the good work..!!

Virginia, I take a minimalistic approach to most things - I don't like things to be too complicated. And since my workspace is so small, I have to keep it orderly. Thanks. Glen

At some point, you might want to upgrade your tooling but if what you have serves the purpose, then maybe there's no need to change. In many instances, the tools don't make the craftsman but just the opposite. And often it's better to build a good skill foundation with the basics. Thanks for sharing that info. Glen

I guess my arm has gotten used to being in the seated position. I'm not sure I always move steel efficiently but for sure I recommend not trying to beat the steel into submission (as I often see guys doing). Those folks won't last long if their hammering is wild and uncontrolled. You have to work with the metal and the heat and not against it. (I should mention this in a video). Thanks for continuing to watch. Glen

Me too, I think the rusty look is suitable for some pieces. I'm even hoping to pit the sides of this hammer, which might not be too difficult in the acid rain here (I leave it outside). If you have any questions, just let me know. Thanks. Glen

I'm very glad you think that. This style is my personal favorite but they can take some getting used to. Thanks for watching. Glen

This video was sort of all over the place so I'm glad you were able to take something away from it. I will do my best to keep them coming... Thanks. Glen

Glen GS Tongs ah man you're to hard on yourself the video came out perfect and even so some subscribers like a bit of normality in videos so they don't think we are perfect at everything haha. I recently tried to forge weld in my gas forge and although it did turn out ok it destroyed my bricks and ceramic matting how do you manage to do it in your forge?

Thanks for the encouragement. The way I manage to not destroy my gas forge lining when forge welding is to rarely forge weld in my gas forge. I like forge welding when using coal but dislike it when using gas and so avoid it usually. You can use a sacrificial fire brick or ceramic on the floor - a piece that you only use when welding - and that will help. When I showed welding in a video, I wanted to do so at that time because I was going to change my forge lining anyway. Another thing to consider to maybe help is use less or even no flux. The melted flux is what really is corrosive. I have done forge welding without flux with pure iron. But with mild steel coupled with a gas forge, it's just not that easy. if you can get your hands on pure or real wrought iron, give it a go. Or experiment with alternative fluxes... Thanks. Glen

Glen GS Tongs brilliant thanks so much for giving me your time and explaining all that. I've now changed the lining of my forge and won't be forge welding in it from now on.

The touch marks (brand stamps/logos) are made by a professional engraver here in Taiwan. I facilitate getting these made, mainly as service to those who buy any of my tools. I'm not sure if I could make the tapering dies you want. I am imagining the bottom die as flat and the top die having a slight, side to side angle. This may work but you would have to move your blade along and work it as you pull or push along since the dies are only 5/8" thick. This might leave marks at each interval. I may need to try this out and if it works, it could be a useful die choice. Any input you have is welcome. Thanks for watching and for your interesting question. Glen

Anthony, Your idea for making the tongs adjustable is interesting - something to think about for sure. Thanks for watching and for your input. And sorry for the slow reply. Glen

I would say that I have about 30 seconds to work my steel before it cools off too much. But this largely depends on the size of the steel I'm working and how high of a heat I take. Thanks for watching.

Luke, Yes, I make my own punches and other handled top tools. I use H13 steel which is very suitable for hot use. Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen

Pietro, I appreciate you watching and your kind words. Thanks. Glen

Thanks for your suggestion. I have thought about this tool in different forms but always find the simplest design to be best (for me). Others have suggested having the top die spring loaded so it always rebounds upward. I plan to work on this tool more when I get a chance and appreciate your input. Glen

Thanks James. I appreciate the support. Glen

As always, very happy you still find these videos interesting. Thanks for sticking around. Glen

My bent knee style tongs are my personal favorite and I don't make knives. They're a little odd and take getting used to but they hold well even when rotating while hammering and are a bit more versatile than standard jaw tongs. Thanks for watching. Glen

How much for 1.5 by .25 inch? How much for guilatine?

Thanks for your interest in my work and for watching this video. The block anvils I use are my own designs. For a time, I was selling the smallest but the shipping is just high and margin low and so I stopped. Sorry I couldn't help you with this. I recently upgraded my guillotine tool and charge $90 for that. And I normally charge $37 per tong. You can check out my website at: www.gstongs.com Thanks. Glen

Yes, I agree. That was exactly my thinking when I designed these. I've always felt that wherever you are hammering on your anvil, how much mass is directly beneath where you are hammering very much influences how well the anvil performs. While any anvil is one unit of weight with a certain mass, having the weight is spread out horizontally (in a horn, heal or wide face) does help to a degree. But I think the more mass you have vertically in close proximity to where you are working, the better resistance. And better resistance translates to the less energy loss (more energy is directed into the workpiece and not lost through the anvil). Of course, this also depends on the type of steel, hardness, etc. Anyway, I definitely agree. Thanks for watching. Glen

Do you seal your work with beeswax or boiled linseed oil? Either should help protect from rust.

Dave, I make everything to order. Currently, I am busier than usual and so the wait for me to complete whatever you might want is about two weeks. With the guillotine tool, I would need to know the hardy hole size you want it for. Many of my customers are able to make some of the tools I offer but either don't have the time or prefer to spend their forging time doing things they enjoy. Let me know if there is anything else. Thanks. Glen

Thanks. I will give you a holler in a few weeks.

Yes, I did try a variety of dies but found the fuller an flat dies to be most useful. Still, there's a place for all sorts of shapes, depending on the work. Thanks for watching. Glen

Thanks for watching. Come back for more... Glen

Mark, I've been a bit slow to share this but will eventually make a video showing the process I use to make my bent knee style tongs. Thanks for watching. Glen

Jesse, It really depends on your work. Most guys radius their anvil edges a lot but I personally don't like too much radius. For some anvils, having sharp edges could be dangerous (lead to chipping) so easing most edges, at least a little, it preferable. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for the reply. I love your innovative setup. Especially your new anvil setup. Very cool

It's nothing more than a final heat to a low temperature, before scale can peel away, a light wire brushing, letting it cool until warm and spraying it down at that point with WD-40. To be honest, it's probably best to not use a spray oil on a piece that has any heat on it. You could just wait until it's cold, then spray it, to be safe. If you want a really jet black finish, get a metal container with old motor oil and a metal cover. When your piece is at a black to very dull red heat, drop it on and quickly cover (so the oil can't flash up). Just be careful with hot metal and oil - take all safety precautions. Thanks for watching. Glen

Luis, I did make a video, actually two, on making flat tongs. Check this out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fbuXd7dpzcjTYYE.html Thanks for watching. Glen

Joel, After moving (back) to Taiwan years ago, I found my work space fairly limited and I thought it wouldn't be practical if I was standing and moving around to my tools. I thought if I could do my work in a seated position, I could place my tools around me and make better use of my space. I've been working like this for years now and doubt I can go back to standing. But this may not be for everyone. I'm short and pretty flexible. Also, there are dangers that need to be heeded when forging in this way. Thanks for watching. Glen

Ok. Thanks for answering that! :D

I normally charge $90 for my current guillotine tool (an improved version of what you see in this video) and the shipping vis standard airmail is $23. It includes fuller and flat die sets. Thank for watching. Glen

Chris, I don't make the touch marks - a professional engraver here does. I just facilitate getting them made for my customers and subscribers. His price range seems to be from around $80 to $120, depending on the complexity. He does excellent work and uses H13 steel for these. Thanks for watching. Glen

Dominic, I'm very glad you like these tongs. Thanks for watching and sorry for the slow reply. I will eventually post a video of me making this style tong. Good luck in your work. Glen

My wife is Taiwanese (we actually met here many, many moons ago). After getting married, we lived in the States (WA) for many years then decided to move back to Taiwan for a change of pace and so she could be closer to her elderly parents. I'm originally from Staten Island... Matthew donated to my channel - never heard of the singer and never did any missionary work. I'm just glad you feel you're learning something from my videos as it makes the time needed to put them together worth while. Take care. Glen

+Glen GS Tongs- we shall stay in touch. love to quiz you more regarding blacksmithing... I was quite off with my assessment of you, but I'm still a big fan of you and your work! 😁

Ivan, I'm sorry - I don't quite follow your question. Please ask again. No matter, thanks for watching. Glen

James, Yes, I will ship to anywhere in the world. And I have worked it out to where the shipping price is the same, regardless of location. The UK, more often than not, charges import duty (VAT) and I have no control over this. Thanks for watching. Glen

Will, I normally charge $37 per tong but since you watched my video here, I would offer you a small discount and charge $34 per plus shipping. Shipping for one tong is $13 and increases by $5 for each additional tong. Let me know if there is anything else. Thanks. Glen

I don't make these touch marks - a professional engraver here does and I just help my customers and subscribers get them made through him. His price seems to be from $80 to $120 USD, depending on the complexity. Thanks for watching. Glen

Oleg, yes, I know what you mean - does seem odd. I'm intentionally rusting that hammer as I think it adds character. But the rusted look is not suitable for every tool or item. Thanks for watching. Glen

I appreciate the Seinfeld reference. I don't make touch marks. The marks I've shown in the past were made by the a professional engraver however I've stopped, at least temporarily, from offering this service. Thanks for watching.

I have been considering discontinuing getting these made. It often works out to be more hassle than it's worth. The shipping is high and the margin is very low (in order to keep the overall price reasonable). Still, Im not completely decided on this so if you have interest let me know. I love my own anvils of this style and use them every day. Thanks. Glen

Dylan, I charge $80 for the guillotine tool, which includes fuller and flat die sets, and the shipping via standard airmail is $23. Thanks for watching. Glen www.gstongs.com

I do have a small shop at my house in the US. My current location is not suitable for larger equipment. I thought about renting a shop space here but currently, I'm enjoying keeping things simple. I never seriously thought about getting a power hammer or hydraulic press because at that point, blacksmithing would no longer be fun to me. Maybe I'm wrong to assume that but I like to keep things as minimalistic as possible. I would however like to get a flypress. I once owned a very, very nice treadle hammer but never used it as I should have. I guess my motto should be work harder not smarter!... Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen

Carl, Yes, it's me. Not very photogenic I'm afraid. Thanks for watching.