BMW End Link Change and Length Adjustment (F2x, F3x Chassis)

Рет қаралды 7,506

Күн бұрын

If you've gone to aftermarket sway bars or changed the height of your car much from stock, then you can probably benefit from adjustable end links. This video will show you how to swap end links on your BMW F2x F3x, and if you have adjustable end links, how to set the lengths on those.
Index:
0:00 Intro
0:14 Measuring ride height adjustable end links only
1:28 Removing the front end links
3:50 Front sway bar geometry and adjustment concept adjustable end links only
5:30 Setting the front knuckle to ride height adjustable end links only
6:07 Installing the front end links
8:50 Rear end link removal
9:53 Rear sway bar geometry and adjustment concept adjustable end links only
10:59 Rear end link installation
12:34 Rear end link length adjustment adjustable end links only
13:22 End link adjustment to remove preload adjustable end links only
15:33 Installing bottom covers and wheels
*Affiliated Links
-Pass-through Socket Set: amzn.to/3aqp901
-Long Torx Socket Set: amzn.to/33KPHX1
-Crow's Foot Wrench Set: amzn.to/2wnFgN6
-KC Design Front Adjustable End Links: tinyurl.com/KCD-Front-End-Links
-KC Design Rear Adjustable End Links: tinyurl.com/KCD-Rear-End-Links
-KC Design Front Sway Bar (RWD only): tinyurl.com/KCD-Front-Sway-Bar
-KC Design Rear Sway Bar: tinyurl.com/KCD-Rear-Sway-Bar
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DISCLOSURE:
Some of the product links on this page are Amazon affiliated so I earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support!

Пікірлер: 29

@CartubeCoIl 2 жыл бұрын

As always, very professional. Thanks!

@fujiki5507 4 жыл бұрын

Very detailed info, appreciate!

@ex-engineer-th 4 жыл бұрын

Hi, Thanks for this. Great work.

@Onizukachan915 4 жыл бұрын

Cool vid. Like the touch on suspension theory and design re endlink length

@FaRKle0079 4 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you enjoyed it! It's important to me to know the "why" behind what I'm doing.

@patricioelosua5886 3 жыл бұрын

Didnt even notice the car changed color for the first like 4 times I watched the video 😂😂 thabks for the video, really helpful! I jacked my car, wheels off and just remembered I had to measure, damn.. extra work 🙃

@dominicboccella3396 2 ай бұрын

thank you bro

@paulneuwirth9223 2 жыл бұрын

Brilliant 👽

@Sylverlee 5 ай бұрын

hey thanks for this video. On cars like this, are both front and rear usually required? I've read in some places that only the front would be needed. Just trying to save $$ where not needed.

@capeeduehhh 2 жыл бұрын

Hi, thankyou so much for this video - it indeed helped a lot with my installation in the F30. Quick question about the rear sway bar and end-link - my car is lowered on Eibach Pro-Kit with stock sway bar; it seems my rear sway bar is set to its natural position (cannot be pushed up-down without force) and I need like c. 1.5 - 2CM of rear end-link adjustment -- however my rear adjustable end-link (mine from Superpro) can only be adjusted lower by 0.5cm... Just wondering whether you have any experience with a stock rear sway bar and what to do?

@FaRKle0079 2 жыл бұрын

The geometry between stock sway bar and aftermarket ones should be the same, just the thickness of it differing. Also, the rear sway bar shouldn't have bonded bushings so can be rotated to different positions, but would require force. I would just get things as close as you reasonably can to ideal with your end links.

@emillindblad3059 3 жыл бұрын

Very good video! @FaRKle0079 Noticed any improvement on the car with the stock sway bars? I'm dropped with H&R Super sports and thinking of doing this mod as well

@FaRKle0079 3 жыл бұрын

I never had adjustable end links with the stock sway bars on my vehicle, but I did this for a friend and he said he noticed a difference. He said the car got less upset by bumps since the suspension had more independence.

@jfritz7000 2 жыл бұрын

Actually another question for you: When you refer to the ideal 90deg geometry of link body relative to the bar's pivot point, I presume that is actually ideally at static ride height (though in video you're showing it at full droop, I think)? On my car (F80 ZCP) at the front (with B16 Damptronic kit and mild drop, stock endlinks), when at full droop it's nearly spot-on at 90 deg. But when I jack up the knuckle to static ride height, that angle becomes > 90 deg. I'm going to thrown on some adjustable SPL endlinks -- should I be trying to achieve that 90 deg angle at static ride height, and would you say achieving that 90 deg angle would take priority over maintaining the stock bar's "preferred" resting position (as you discuss in video)? However, violating that I suppose may result in non-zero preload on the bar, which is not what we want either. Put another way, if I can achieve the 90deg angle at static ride height, and do so with what feels like no preload on the bar (despite the bar perhaps being in a different static position than with stock endlinks), are those the ideal goals? Thanks again!

@FaRKle0079 2 жыл бұрын

In the video when I was showing the end link 90deg to the bar, the end link was disconnected from the strut, which allowed the bar to sit at it's natural position, so it was essentially at normal height. You want to adjust your end links so that you're making the 90deg at static ride height with no preload. If you have a stock bar that has a normal/natural position, I'd lean towards not preloading that over having a perfect 90deg angle since the forces don't change too drastically if you're not perfectly at 90deg, but a preload will always be working against you.

@jfritz7000 2 жыл бұрын

Hello from another bimmerpost member, thanks for your input there and these videos. Question: For the front for example, what if with wheels off using 2 jacks you had both front knuckles jacked up simultaneously to their static ride heights? Would this allow you to install adjustable endlinks, ensure the bar is at its neutral position, and be sure there's no preload, all in one fell swoop (eliminating your final step in the video requiring the car to be on the ground for adjustment of the 2nd side)? I guess I'm a bit confused as to what the difference is between both knuckles being jacked up to static ride height, vs the car being at static height while resting on the ground. Despite the dampers being in the same position, the suspension is loaded differently in those two scenarios (I guess)? As I think about it, I guess it's because the natural weight distribution of the car's mass when on the ground is not equally split 50/50 in the side-to-side dimension, whereas with the car lifted and each knuckle jacked up you're inducing an unnatural, more equal weight "distribution" that doesn't exist otherwise. Hmm, maybe I answered my own question?

@FaRKle0079 2 жыл бұрын

Yes you could do it the way you described having two jacks supporting the front knuckles. You're also right about the weight distribution not being exactly the same, however for sway bar adjustments it doesn't have to be absolutely exact. If you did some trig to understand how much the force changes per degree off from 90deg, you'd find you have margin. I'd think about putting some jack stands in there to catch the car if something happened though.

@jfritz7000 2 жыл бұрын

@@FaRKle0079 Awesome, thanks!

@luigiderrico8168 3 жыл бұрын

Hi, so if I had a bridge that allows me to place the wheels on the ground on a flat surface, I could start from the condition of all four end links disconnected and adjust one at a time making sure that there is no preload and tension between the right and left, right? If what I understood were correct, I wonder what happens when there is only the weight of the driver in the car. Are there any new tension on the sway bar?

@FaRKle0079 3 жыл бұрын

Yes, that's the ideal way to do it. Drive up on ramps or 4-post lift with the sway bar disconnected and unloaded (only need to disconnect one side), then start adjusting and attaching the end links so there's no preload. You can place weights in the driver's seat to simulate driver weight, but for the most part that isn't going to change things too much unless you're trying to extract every bit of performance for a full on race car.

@TK-gd9td 4 жыл бұрын

do you happen to know the OEM lengths for end links on f30 x drive models? Are they shorter or longer than RWD ones?

@FaRKle0079 4 жыл бұрын

I have the end link lengths in this other video of mine: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hNyiY8yIsb6ziGQ.html The end links between RWD and AWD are the same lengths.

@steveng5503 4 жыл бұрын

I’m not a fan of spinning any type of ball joints to tighten or loosen the fixings. The counter-hold as you call it, is there for a reason and that reason is to help you tighten/loosen the nut without spinning the ball joint. I think you’ve missed a trick here. Nevertheless a useful video. 👍 from me. 🇬🇧

@thecasualdiyer6729 2 жыл бұрын

Another bimmerpost member here. For the front, what if you were to remove the existing end links, fasten the top of the adjustables to the strut (left and right), put the wheels back on, then lower the car onto a ramp, then adjust the bottom of the adjustable to be a of a correct length to slide into the roll bar without any resistance. A challenge I've encountered with jacking up the front wheels is that it is possible for the front disk to slip or turn rearward under load. It's . . . quite a surprise.

@FaRKle0079 2 жыл бұрын

You'd just need to make sure the suspension is settled after lowering the car. It typically wont unless you have slip plates under the tires or you drive it around a bit.

@thecasualdiyer6729 2 жыл бұрын

@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for tip. I've been driving around for a while with lowered springs and after-market dampers. I believe as long as can get the desired 90 degree angle for the endlink with the anti-roll bar in it's natural resting position, that should dial out the pre-load. Looking to make the ride a bit more comfortable. The KC Design parts look great.