Isn't it interesting how we enjoy staring into fire. Something sooo soothing about it.

I have seen 10 of these waste oil heaters. So far I like yours best. If you put some sort of shutter on opposing sides of your cook pot... the flame may stay straight and you could regulate air input... and heat output. Somewhat like a wood or coal stove would have. I think an old cylinder coal stove... Penn or Chubby would wirk great. New subscriber here.

Just finished watching this and if you were still wanting a convection heat rather than a primary radiant heat from this I would suggest aluminum tubing. Any shape will do the job, round, square rectangular. even some heavy channel like used in Trailer awning support arms would do a great job and finding twisted/broken awnings would make the channel real cheap. Cut the length of the aluminum the same size or a little shorter than the side of the heat chamber, top to bottom. several pieces to totally surround the chamber would be most efficient. Use a couple or more large stainless gear clamps to squeeze them to the side of the chamber and when burning, the air will be drawn up the center of the pipe/channels and conveyed into the room out the top. This may also lower the exhaust temperatures as more heat will be used and not wasted out the chimney, making the heater more efficient and use less oil. Less oil, even cleaner exhaust. Nice job on the heater.

Nice setup you have there. Good use of the break router, that got my interest, it has air vents and holes where the lug nut goes, Roll with it.

I got that same drill press for putting a clutch in! Had it for years. Works great!

Moderately heavy oils (Diesel, hot waste oil, etc.) burn in three stages: 1. non-luminous stage: this stage is very clean, but does not generate that much heat. 2. Main combustion phase: this stage generates almost all of the heat and expansion, is relatively clean. 3. Sooty stage: If excessive air is not present in this final stage of combustion, your exhaust will be sooty, smelly and toxic. The reason you install a secondary combustion chamber (the cylinder there) is to properly complete the third stage of combustion. after this last stage, you can safely extract as much heat as possible with a heat exchanger.

Not only was this a FANTASTIC video but I saw that you replied to many the questions people have and didn't neglect them. Definite like and subscribe from me :-) Well done.

About every November, we get a little cold snap, I start a fire in the fireplace for a few evenings in a row. Then I look at the collection of nearly full used waste oil containers in my garage after changing the boat oil before winter layup. I consider building one of these to warm the shop. Then I book a week or two at the beach. By the time I get home it's spring and I thank god I don't live where it's cold enough to NEED a waste oil burner, but this is a very nice design. I'd just feel better about it if it only had a tripod leg system rather than 4 less stable legs.

one time i made a waste oil burner and a foundry furnace. Melted aluminum real good, but then i got ambitious and tried to melt cast iron. with my forced air burner using compressed air to aspirate diesel and a shop vac on blow forcing air into it i successfully melted both the cast iron and the foundry furnace. Just goes to show the power of oil burners.

Hi there great video! I first saw one of these being operated in a mechanic's garage in Turkey while we waited to get a busted turbo replaced. OMG I was so impressed it was heating the whole damn shop and a little smaller than the one you made (an also not as elegant as your one LOL). That was like in 2010 and i went nuts looking for what that thing was so i could build one, LOL I only got as far as a prototype you could never put inside but the principle was the same. I had to use a big industrial drill press at work to make my holes in the "swiss cheese"/air intake pipe, that was the hardest part. You've done a great job! I subbbed!

Thanks for this video! Great build and looks cool too!

Waste oil heaters use a LOT of oil. My local garage bought one to use oil from car oil changes, thinking it would be like free workshop heating...well it is free, except a busy small garage couldn’t get enough waste oil to keep the heater running,....plus being a commercial unit it wasn’t cheap to buy either....plus here in UK there are regulations like Albatrosses to make any kind of cost savings too difficult.

Right on man! I wanna build a second one with some revisions... and of course make a video on it. I regret not recording the build on the first one

Ive just built my own, use stainless frying pan that is more shallow and fuel is more closer to air , and make it flush to rotor, then it will start pulling really strong off the bat. I stared mine outside on -15C with no issues at all

I run cooking oil through a filter/water separator, a cleaner fuel means you can use a needle/ball valve to get better control of the fuel and heat output'. I cheat a bit though as i use a blower to atomise the oil and generate heat.I have a couple of vid's of my heater and will do a step by step video showing the way I've set it up soon. cheers.

This guy would make an awesome neighbor !

In a garage you would need to have that about three feet off the floor . If you were ever to spill gas on the floor and the fumes alone rolled across the floor they would ignite in a second . I used to sell new cars and I met a guy who nearly got burned to death installing a new vinyl floor with regular vinyl floor adhesive but they didn't turn off a gas hot water heater pilot light . It was a big mistake .

looks pretty sweet! dont tell the insurance company haha

Great video, I would make a better rest for your SS pot to rest on, it looks a little shaky. I also would be careful with an open flame with gasoline in there. Gas fumes will travel to this.

Thanks for posting the simple version of the waste oil heater. All the other videos I saw were utilizing a fan to basically make a blast furnace.

I like that we can see the fire through the swiss cheese

Good Video for me to learn :D, THANK YOU !!!

I think the air intake needs to be as low as possible, dill some holes around the side of the stainless steel pot, about 50mm up from the bottom with some means of partially closing for adjustment, all other holes are detrimental as they are allowing excess air to be drawn in which is taking a lot of heat out of the stove and up the chimney, hence the heat haze outside.

Love the design.

just an fyi, most propane dealers have very good tanks they are tossing that are no longer usable, but make great expansion tanks and waste oil burner chambers. 3/4 hose thread and 3/4 NPT are two different threads. Try putting some very course stainless steel wool in your burn pot. It will more thoroughly expose the oil to the air mass, and burn cleaner and hotter. Smoke is usually the result of cold oil, burning to rich, not enough air, or hot enough combustion. If you run your oil line closer to your burner, it will preheat the oil. Waste oil burns most efficiently when the oil is warmed to between 160 and 180 f degrees. I have built many wast oil heaters. I am concerned that you have a lot of flame and ignition potential exposed to flammable objects in the proximity of your burner. Nice design. Put a split 15 gallon metal can around your burner with a 1" space between the bottom to allow air to come in. That will keep the smoke and exiting flame from being an issue. Try putting a ceiling fan in the center of your room. That dramatically increases the spread of your heat, and makes it feel warm everywhere and may keep your detector from going off. But again great skunk works development of your burner. Flame On Bogie!!

Awesome! I love it!!!!

I bet that burner is going to do a great job of heating your shop this winter. Nice job!

very cool. simple and it works.

Great comment "Swirling mass of hell "11:30" , very funny.

My design is similar except I left the 4" pipe without holes and the pot cap with a single row of 1/2" holes spaced as closely as possible. The draft of the chimney (hot air rises) causes fresh air to enter the pot, via the 1/2" holes, thereby feeding the fire, consequently a cleaner hotter burn. All mounted under a wood stove. The mass of the wood stove radiates tons of heat into the room.

I moved in to a house with an old rusty woodstove in the basement that had single wall flue piping. I had the piping turn red hot - scared the shit out if me. My infrared gun topped out at 750 fahrenheit so it had to be well over 1,000F. I only use double wall piping after that experience.

Cool build. Adding 1 drop of water to every three drops of oil will increase the vaporization of the oil. Water / oil combination always burns hotter as the water turns to steam it vaporizes the oil.

So kewl. Thanks for sharing. It’s always neat to see everyone’s perspective on how to! Have a great day

Great video! Pls advise - the high-temp heat goes on all external surfaces incl. welds etc?

Very nice and easy. I like it.

Sweetheart, you have got to make a better base for that pot. Great use of materials. You're very clever.

May I suggest designing an adjustable air flow valve. Many people just control the oil flow but that's not the best way to manipulate a flame. Manipulating the air intakd and output would make a fine blue flame. Maximising efficiency and fuel consumption. The blye flame would need to be able to warm a radiater to not notice a loss in heat. As the flane is smaller but much hotter and fully oxidised .

take a look online for smudge pot. you first design needed a tube from the chimney about half way up going back down to the pot lid and smaller holes going further up to increase combustion chamber size . The tube pressurizes the pot with hot air increasing combustion and burning cleaner. smaller holes help keep pipe integrity and improve draft.

for your added air should use a bulkhead fitting threw the pot with a plug that u can open and close when you want so u dont have to move the pot and it can stay in place. other then that it is a great idea i think i might make one for my garage.

Can you give me an idea about how much oil you burn in a week in relation to hours and temp?

Nothing like the smell of dirty old engine oil in the morning! The neighbors must love you. BTW, your home insurance policy just got cancelled.

good job...got me wanting to make one.

thanks for the post

Hello Bogie, Love the video, Hope you don't mind if i make a suggestion? Maybe if you drilled some holes around the top edge of the saucepan, then you wouldn't have to move the pot over to let air into it. Hope this helps. I'm half way through building one of these from a 47KG Propane bottle.

maybe consider adding a second tap to the oil line and use that to shut the oil off, and keep the first one to adjust the flow, that way you don't have to "guess" the right amount of turns nice looking project

Thank you for the Fahrenheit!!!

Nice build...the burn pot needs improvements to be more stable and safe from falling and spilling! Needs brackets to hold it and to allow it to slide! As you mentioned you were gonna change it somehow..,

I bought those same Gloves at Harbor Freight for Welding. Not bad for $3 a pair...

Use the brackets from the air tank for a fan, you will circulate that heat much better in the room.

Don't have much use for waste motor oil heat (bought an EV) but have access to lots of used veg oil from restaraunts. Have you tried veg oil, if so does it make any difference in the combustion?

Not sure if you still have it going or fixed the steel surround idea. Take a look at my video how I used 55 gallon drum to surround my 18" pipe stove. It's 1/4" thick so lot more mass to heat up. Mine has forced air so that makes a difference too.

looks good.. do you have baffles inside the tank?

you can just weld strips or plates to side and roof of that thing, making kind of like "cpu cooler" loking things, those metal plates heat up and create helll of a draft between them moving the air, and there are small stove fans that work from heat of your stove to also move air if welding is too complicated.. also you can check for "turbo stoves/burners" and make like spiraling pipes to creata "fan like look" to create stronger and controlled draft in burn chamber..

Nicely done! I think you might have even more success with a shallower pan, air is the problem 90% of the time. Less primary holes means less smoke and more efficiency. You got tons of secondary holes, which is good. I got a similar design that I will upload an update about here this weekend.

Good video mate,It would be worth your while when you have the grinder out to cut the cylinder in half and weld a couple of baffles in, it'll slow all the heat heading directly out the chimney.

Why the external burn chamber? Would it be better inside the tank? Feed oil to the bottom of burn area from below. With your head pressure it will have positive flow.

Hey, If you were to box in the lower half and put in a fresh air duct with damper, you wouldn't ever set off the alarm because of your sealed combustion chamber. As for your exhaust, if you have the room, you could run it as far as possible and use thin or even Aluminum. You wood radiate a lot more heat. I guess you could box in the top and make it a force air unit. I use to dream of putting on in an outhouse size bldg and duct in to house and shop This was probably mix in your other replies, and I'm yacking to much! Cheers

Nice video. Gave me an idea that you might want to try out. Make a precision control for the height of the pot. If you can lower the pot in minute increments (I would think perhaps and large adjuster that works the way leveling feet work on appliances via threaded stud), then you could drop it straight down for increased airflow that would not create unequal pressure variance from one direction or another, even it is only a couple mm or 1/16". This would keep smoke going up the flu and no flames. You would surely have to construct some sort of leveling mechanism that can withstand the heat and does not use grease or oil.

Thats awsome .. Have you tryed making the chimney pipe go around the inside to maximise the heat ?

Great Vid Bro, I really enjyed it! Greetz frum Australia. :) Mick

Try using a bundt cake pan with the slightly elevated base and I believe it would increase the air flow, as opposed to moving the pan to the side.

hey we must think a like, I did the same thing brake rotor and cheese pipe, but I did mine 10 years ago, hot water tank heated a 40x40 garage. no problem.

Drill some 1/8 in holes around the upper sides of the lower oan about a 3/4inch down. Creats neg pressure

That thing burns pretty good. I probably have all the necessary parts to weld one of these with my powerarc.

Nice job my brother from the north us got a new sub a.

Think you need a plate in the middle of the burn chamber for the oil to drip onto to flash into a vapor and burn. The burn chamber should be insulated for higher combustion and the exhaust routed to a radiator/heat exchanger to pull the heat out before the exhaust is allowed out of the bottom of the exchanger.

Late to the show but great video. Thanks for posting

interesting concept....

so less air make the combustion process cleaner? which are the primary holes and which are the secondary?

Would it be a good idea to pre heat the burning pot with a small wood fire before starting to drip the oil in?...I'm just curious, it probably doesn't matter...thanks for the awesome video, that's a really cool stove 👍

How do i get the oil to burn cleanly without giving off black smoke. Ive added more air to the system but it still produces black smoke.

A quick and simple answer to your convection heat issue would be to wrap metal dryer duct around outside of tank from bottom to top, with duct extending into shop.

Very amazing... on KZfaq every other video of stoves fueled by waste engine oil needs air blower. I am impressed that your design is burning without any air blower. I wonder are those holes taking air or what. You didnt mentioned what was significance of this multi size holes!

To radiate heat build a small 3 sided brick chimney around it.

secondary burn is the magic word.

Do the vanes in the brake rotor go all the way through? I would think you could drill holes in the under side to let air in without having the pot slid out.

Weld some 3" exhaust pipes parallel to the tank several around the tank then make a cone on top with a single 4" pipe with a metal fan .... then drill 2 or 3 holes in the top edge of the burn pot with some controle valves flat metal like a bbq grill has

Have you tried doing oil burner like a rocket stove so you get full combustion the stack going all the way up inside to the top your flu at the bottom

Very nice. Awesome creativity. Just wondering how do you snuff out the flames when you shut er down??

That is absolutely brilliant. Genius 💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜👍💜

Can you use the vents on the brake rotor/disc with a rotating vented strip that allows the air to feed in 🤔

say is it possible to use the exhausted heat to run a power generator,,,maybe if you rigged up some kind of water tube heat exchanger to run a small turbine hooked to the generator? free light and heat

Con las normas y recomendaciones de seguridad sería apta para calefaccionar el interior de una casa familiar, ?

i am curious,when you burn your heater do you get alot of fluffy ash in it????? and when i say alot i mean a extreme amount. the ash is fluffy, big , and alot ....

Nice heater. nicer Seadoo Dess key 😂🤣😎

Would putting a small floor fan facing the upper tank and exhaust increase your overall heat output to your garage? You have excellent ideas and inventions.

With that much gap at the top of the stainless bowl, I doubt the holes in the brake disc are doing much. Might try drilling some holes in the pan itself. to get a bit more air at the fire.

Thanks for the faranhigh

I think we should call it the grate tube.

Thanks for shearing!

the one i made i put a air intake on the very bottom going into the burn chamber in the center

Cool, You definitely get a bit of nastiness the first time you put the heat to the high heat enamel...it has to heat cure.

what would happen if you put type k copper and wound your chimney and added small holes to use more of the chimney heat?

what is missing is moisture, the air needs humidity to hold the heat molecules in suspension, dry heat dissipates a lot quicker then humid heat.....

Excelente

Almost like I've seen this one before. Stay safe, don't tip that pot over.

I like it and if I'm able to find a free source for oil I would like to build one I think that it's a great way to be worm thanks for the video and what are your videos mostly about so that I might subscribe

1) How did you get the bulkhead on bucket? 2) Is it just oil in bucket?

looks like the warp drive on the enterprise

So when will Cali start ordering folks to use their used oil in these? Shalom you are loved