I had this exact problem. As a temporary fix , 5 years 😅, I removed the rubber breather and the special bolt it fitted to. Replaced that with a banjo bolt and piped it via a T piece into the fuel return pipe. As I said that lasted 5 years until now, but the O ring under the pump head is now leaking so an overhaul is needed.

My pump was leaking just as described and sure enough when I took it apart everything Mike said was spot on. I decided to take it to a professional who had it done in a day. He explained to me how he done it (punched the shaft out via the ball bearing and reseated it). Personally this is best left to a pro and focus on something I can fix. Thanks for the video Mike.

I never did like working on a DPA pump, always sent them to the shop. The old in-line pumps could be pulled in pieces very easy so I always worked on them with great success. A good common-sense video mike. Stay safe mate. Yorkshire Rob.,

Thank you Mike.

On top of the fuel linkage shaft and linkage, there are a few cuts. You need to keep track of which sets were lined up. Just take the fuel linkages off and take off that bolt. I know it's a lot of hassle to go through. And you might end up screwing up your pump if you don't know what you're doing. Plus it'll be a lot easier if you have the pump off the engine because putting the fuel linkage on is not a very easy task. It's frustrating really because you have to pull the shaft up as you push the fuel linkages down. If you don't pull up on the shaft, it'll just slide into the pump. You have to do all that whild holding the springs in place and also keeling in mind to line up the lines on top of the linkage and shaft i was talking about earlier. Bosch could've easily solved this by putting a circlip around the shaft. But i think they didn't do that because they didn't want you taking apart your pump yourself. At the end, one simple advice. If you're taking apart the fuel linkage yourself, remember to take lots and lots of photos of everything along the way. Too many photos will never hurt, you can always delete them later when you're done. If you are not able to do it yourself and take it to a shop, the photos can help them do it (useful for uncommon pumps when you don't know what notch it was set on from factory)

G'day Mike it's been 50 something years since I was trained on diesel injection pumps at Tech College.

See if the plug or ball is soft and drill or maybe tap to fix extractor, great vid mike

Have that problem thanks a Lot for that vídeo Mike

Thanks for the help...just tore one of these down today and i surely went the extra steps and punched it out myself. Not an option to even buy the boost control anymore, so yes no parts available to fix...however in my various kits of o rings i did find the perfect one....also on another not the pin itself on mine had some etching so when i put it back in i flipped the pin so the wear is now inside and not on near the o ring....i did however get the throttle linkage wrong when putting back together so it had a high rev...no biggie just move a few grooves all back to normal. This was surely a pain to get out....just dont punch one ball all the way through go as far as u need to get one out and flip over and do the other....also dont have to completely remove the pin to get the arm out of the way. Ive never even worked on one of these before, with the help of this video i had it off and back on in a few hours....btw i only took the top off instead of removing the whole thing from the machine....had to make several tools though shorten an allen to get the back screw out...and also u need a 4.5 mil allen to remove the cap holding the pin in...i ground the same 5mm i had cut short and ground other end down to fit the odd size allen set. Thanks agian for all the help....literally saved me thousands.

All that and a hair cut too :)!! Thanks so much for the 2nd row door dims in your video the other day for the 110 SW, just been fitting my new B/C pillars. Turns out they had jigged them up wrong and the gap is 30 3/4 rather than 30 1/4. So cut and weld time :( If I hadn't had your info I would have been stuffed!

I've got a knackered pump top with a broken lever sat on the shelf but it's a bit of a trek to pop it over from the UK. I'll try the punch trick just for the hell of it and see how it works, it's got two chances!

Again I know simethimg new.

Hi Mike , my 70 series in Cameroon had this problem it was a substantial leak, never new the cause until now. I got round it by fitting a return line to the tank from the breather , I also had to fit an electric supply pump to supply enough fuel. The car ran fine like this for over 5 years until I managed to bring a second hand pump from the UK. another bush fix by necessity as there was no specialist workshops

So meny year i try to find the answers....to brothers for your information

Nice cut there MIke

Talking about pumps.l remember adjusting the mixture screw and leaving that wire locking the mixture screw dangling. I wondered why l kept on blowing the fuse on the pump stop solenoid,it was dangling hitting the top of the solenoid shorting the fuse,it took a week to find that short.

Cool haircut

Hi Mike i have removed that shaft by punching it through there is a bush around the pin you can get it out with a t30 as it is a inbetween size hexagon under it there is a cup and a square cross section o ringthat i could not match i cut the cup down and added a washer to crush the o ring

Is that another fresh hair cut mike ? Is it sir ? 2 in 6 months sir ? Ohhh, suits you sir

Can you make extended breather for the diesel pump to stop leaking on engine mounting and chassis?